NaturalistaVibes

Author: NaturalistaVibes

What you need to know about Texture Release Treatments
Texture releases are becoming increasingly popular and being marketed to 3A – 4C naturals. The product aims to straighten your hair without damaging your coils/curls using heat, amino acids and conditioning agents. It straightens your natural hair without damaging your curls and coils but instead elongating them. With more and more naturals considering this as a solution for managing their natural hair. We thought it’s worthwhile discussing the pros, cons and things to consider before taking the plunge to get a texture release treatment.

So What is a Texture Release?

“Texture release is a heat activated smoothing system which uses amino acids and conditioning agents to penetrate deep into the hair fibres to straighten your hair. The product is specifically formulated for naturally curly hair and aims to change the texture of your hair strands whilst increasing the manageability of your hair.” ¹

It’s similar to a relaxer to a certain degree because you’re altering your coil and curl pattern. The biggest difference is the chemicals in a texture release are significantly milder so you don’t experience burns, tingling or irritation. However, it’s important to note that although texture releases are marketed as non-damaging and a more natural alternative. The product still contains chemicals which can have an impact on your natural hair in the long term.

5 questions to ask yourself before getting a texture release

1. Do I want to alter my curl pattern?

Texture releases can alter your curl pattern by elongating them. So let’s say you’re a 4C natural, you could end up with a 4A or 4B curl pattern depending on how often and regularly you do a texture release. However there will be cases where you’ll end up with completely straight hair which doesn’t revert back so it’s important to bear that in mind. Especially if your hair is thin and fragile.

2. Do I like the versatility of my natural hair?

Although texture releases makes your hair more manageable and easier to style. You can get the same effect with a silk press and not have the problem of worrying if your hair will revert back. If you like the versatility of rocking your coils /curls and then switching it up for a straighter style then texture releases may not be the option for you. Try silk presses, blow out and roller sets instead.

3. Can I keep up with the maintenance treatments?

Texture releases last 8 to 12 weeks, in some cases you can stretch it slightly longer. You need to keep up with maintenance treatments which can be costly in the long run. You shouldn’t do a texture release at home by yourself and always go to a professional. So check out the costs and have a think about if it’s something you can actually keep up. Prices vary but in the US the average cost is around $275 dollars and £175 in the UK. You’ll also have to buy certain haircare products to maintain the style so bear that in mind when making decisions on the upkeep of the treatment.

4. Why did I stop relaxing my hair?

This is a key question to ask yourself and reflect on. Be honest with yourself about why you’re doing this! There are various reasons why people go Natural. It could be because of chemicals, wanting to embrace their natural hair, pain and discomfort of relaxers OR spending hours in the salon. The list goes on and everyone’s reason is different. If your key reason is to stay away from chemicals then texture releases might not be the option for you.

5. Am I willing to use chemicals on my hair and scalp?

Texture releases definitely aren’t in the same category as relaxers but it’s important to know you’ll be using some form of chemicals on your hair and scalp. Although the chemicals in a texture release aren’t as harsh as Sodium Hydroxide OR Lithium, Potassium, Calcium and Guanidine hydroxide. It’s still a chemical treatment which breaks down the bonds in your hair fibres and alters your curl pattern. The main ingredients in a texture release are “Glyoxylol Carbocysteine, Glyoxylol Keratin Amino Acids, and patent-pending Diamine.” ²

“Glyoxylic acid has emerged as a safe alternative to formol (formaldehyde) use as a hair straightener/relaxer. However, the possible damage to the hair fibre after its application is low known and/or published in the literature ³…The mechanism of action of glyoxylic acid does not appear to be based on breaking and rearrangement of disulfide bridges, but altered them and influenced the hair strength ⁴”
Intl Journal of Trichology & Intl Journal of Cosmetic Science

The study mentions more research needs to be carried out to understand the impact of the chemicals on your hair in the the long term. So decide if it’s a risk you’re willing to take – the biggest impact it’ll have on your hair is on its strength.

What are the benefits of texture release?
- Offers versatility with straighter hairstyles
- Last’s longer than a silk press
- Elongates your curls
- Reduces shrinkage
- Makes coarse and thick hair easier to maintain
- Great for those who are transitioning to natural
What are the cons of texture release?
- Must be done by a professional
- Maintenance can be costly over time
- Exposing your hair to heat and chemicals
- Risk of coils and curls not reverting back
FAQ’s

1: Does hair go back to normal after texture release?

Yes and No! Purley because you could have a slightly different experience to a fellow Naturalista. Lets delve into this into a bit more detail…

YES – The treatment washes out after several washes resulting in your hair reverting back to normal. Your coils and curls will not be exactly the same as pre-texture release but more elongated. This usually happens around the 3 month mark. Using a clarifying shampoo will ensure the treatment is completely removed from the hair.

NO – Many naturals have complained their coils and curls have remained completely straight despite washing out the treatment. Leading them to do a mini big chop and growing out their hair again due to damage. If your hair is thin and fragile then you risk your coils not reverting back.

To minimise damage to your coil and curl pattern, always go to a professional and read reviews beforehand. Explain any concerns you may have re; your hair reverting back and they’ll be able to advise you on products to use and how to maintain it.

2: Is texture release damaging?

As texture releases wash out over a period of time, your hair should revert back to normal. The treatment is designed not to cause any damage but temporarily alter your curl pattern. However, depending on your hair health, thickness, strength etc – you could end up with some damage. The bonds used in the product breaks down your curls which could affect the overall strength of your hair. If you currently have heat damage or recently dyed/bleached your hair then it’s recommended to wait a couple of months before getting the treatment.

3: Is texture release better than a relaxer?

Yes – It is much better. The chemicals used are significantly milder and not as harsh as chemicals found in relaxers. Texture releases mimic a texturizer to a certain degree but the benefit of the treatment is the product can be washed out after several washes. Some naturals who are transitioning might opt for a texture release to manage their 2 textures.

4: What chemicals are in a texture release?

The main ingredients in texture release are Glyoxylol Carbocysteine, Glyoxylol Keratin Amino Acids, and patent-pending Diamine. Glyoxylol Carbocysteine has a combination of glycoxylic acid, cysteine and acetic acid. Although Glycoxylic acid is classed as a safer form of formaldehyde. It may have an impact on your hair strength because of the curl altering process. As we mentioned earlier, there is limited research on the long term impact it can have on your hair and scalp but definitely deemed safer.

5: How to loosen your curl pattern without chemicals?

Depending on how you wear your hair on a daily basis. There are a couple ways you can elongate your curls specifically using stretching and banding techniques. It really depends on the style you’re trying to achieve. Watch the video below to understand how the techniques work.

Practise always makes perfect, so be patient with yourself and feel free to try other methods too.

FINAL THOUGHTS

When considering getting a texture release, it’s important to do what’s right for you and works for your hair care maintenance needs. Although this is a chemical enhancing treatment, it’s very mild in comparison to relaxers. Your curl pattern will be altered and elongated so weigh up the pros and cons before getting a texture release. Use the 5 questions to help you decide if this is something you should do or not do. At the end of the day, everyones hair and lifestyle is different so you have to make a decision that’ll add value to you as opposed to just following a trend.

We hope you found this article insightful and feel free to ask questions in the comment section. Although, were not experts we’ll be able to steer you in the right direction or share links that might help with your decision making process.

What to read next about straightening Natural Hair: 10 Silk Press Maintenance Tips

REFERENCES
1. Avlon – Texture Release ↩︎
2. Respect – Science of Texture Release ↩︎
3. Velasco, Maria Valéria Robles et al. “Impact of Acid (“Progressive Brush”) and Alkaline Straightening on the Hair Fiber: Differential Effects on the Cuticle and Cortex Properties.” International journal of trichology vol. 14,6 (2022): 197-203. doi:10.4103/ijt.ijt_158_20 ↩︎
4. Boga, Carla & Taddei, Paola & Micheletti, Gabriele & Ascari, Federico & Ballarin, Barbara & Morigi, Massimo & Galli, Sylvestre. (2014). Formaldehyde replacement with glyoxylic acid in semipermanent hair straightening: A new and multidisciplinary investigation. International Journal of Cosmetic Science. 36. 10.1111/ics.12148. ↩︎
February 4, 2024
What is Type 4 Hair? Everything you need to know
Do you struggle to understand your hair type and texture? Sometimes it’s hard to know if you’re a 4A, 4B or 4C natural. Especially if you don’t have an understanding of the different coil textures and patterns. Many Type 4 Naturalistas assume they have 4C hair but instead have 4A or 4B hair. Tbh – It’s easy to be confused as many people refer to the hair type as afro coily or afro kinky. So why is it important to know your hair type? It helps you to care for your hair properly and supports you with identifying what products to incorporate into your hair regimen. It’s definitely possible to have multiple hair textures – for instance – a mix of 4A & 4B OR a mix of 4B & 4C but it’s likely one type will be more prominent over the other.

If you don’t know the difference between 4A, 4B or 4C hair OR then read this article to get more insight. You’ll learn how to differentiate the Type 4 hair textures and tips on how to properly care for your hair. We also spend time running through common questions Type 4 Naturalista’s ask. Keep reading to learn more!

What is Type 4 Hair

Type 4 hair is typically referred to as afro, coily or kinky hair. It’s the most unique of all the hair types because of its the coil pattern and shape. What makes Type 4 hair unique is the versatility it offers. It has the ability to be straight, curl/coil and shrink. The texture offers a variety of styling options in comparison to Type 2 and 3 hair. It’s the most fragile of all the hair types and has fine strands which makes caring for it slightly difficult if you’re not using the right techniques, tools and products.

Here are some characteristics of Type 4 hair;
- S or Z shaped coil pattern
- Shrinks up to 70% of its length
- Prone to breakage
- Tends to be dry and be frizzy
- Hair strands densely packed together
- Tangles easily
How do I know if I have 4A, 4B or 4C Hair?

Let’s delve into 3 textures that form this hair type in more detail…

4A HAIR

4A hair has a distinct “S” shaped coil pattern. The coils are springy and similar to the size of a crochet needle. The coils are densely packed together but the coil pattern is very visible. It shrinks up to 60% of the hairs length and is the loosest of all the Type 4 hair types. 4A hair has great moisture retention levels but is still prone to dryness and breakage.

4B HAIR

4B hair is easily confused with 4C hair due to both being “Z” shaped. The coil pattern is tight but not as tight as 4C hair. You can usually see the Z shape when your hair is wet. This hair type is prone to a lot of shrinkage, usually up to 70% of the length. Keeping the hair hydrated is key with this hair type. It takes a little longer for moisture to travel through the hair strands due the coil shape.

4C HAIR

4C hair has an extremely tight “Z” coil pattern. It’s not as loose as 4B even though the shape is very similar. 4C hair is the most fragile of all the Type 4 hair types so detangling with TLC is key to minimise any breakage. Work in sections and use tools like a wide tooth comb to minimise any tugging and pulling of the hair. Similar to 4B hair, 4C hair also experiences a significant amount of shrinkage (up to 80% for some naturals). Hydration is also key for this type, it’s important to use a moisture retention technique to lock it in.

How often should 4A, 4B or 4C hair be washed?

The rule of thumb is to wash your hair every 2 weeks. But depending on your lifestyle, this could be more often or less. We wouldn’t recommend going past the 4 week mark even if you’re wearing protective style. A healthy and clean scalp is important for your hair to thrive.

As Type 4 hair is prone to dryness and breakage, it’s important not to strip the hair of its natural oils when shampooing. Stick to hydrating and moisturising shampoos which minimise the loss of oils and always follow up with a conditioner to replenish your hair with moisture. Always use a with a leave-in conditioner once done to lock in additional moisture and keep your hair hydrated until your next wash day.

It’s also important to use a clarifying shampoo every 4 to 6 weeks to minimise any build up from hair products and daily styling. If you’re not a fan of clarifying shampoos then try a bentonite clay mask.

How can I make my Type 4 hair more manageable?

People have typically opted for relaxers in the past for ease of styling. For some reason, people think type 4 hair isn’t manageable but we’re here to dispel that myth. Whether you’re newly natural, a lazy natural or experienced natural – your hair is manageable. All you need is the right tools and techniques to care for your hair. As part of the process, you’ll need to create a natural hair routine and ensure you’re using products your hair has a liking to.

Here are some key elements to incorporate into your routine to make your type 4 hair easier to work with.

Moisture, Moisture, Moisture

Type 4 hair needs more moisture compared to other hair types. The “S & Z” shape makes it harder for moisture to travel down the hair shaft. Which is why the texture is prone to breakage and dryness. Utilise a moisture retention technique like the LOC or LCO method to keep your hair hydrated for longer. Spritzing your hair with water and leave-in mixture is one way to get moisture into your hair strands in between wash days.

Detangle your hair thoroughly

Type 4 hair has a fine texture and is densely packed together so it’s important to detangle your hair thoroughly to reduce any breakage. Always detangle on damp hair and never dry hair. Use a detangling tool like a wide tooth comb or detangling brush and take your time. Using a product with some slip like a conditioner or detangling lotion will make the process easier. The product helps you glide through your hair smoothly without pulling and tugging on your hair strands..

Some naturals forget to detangle prior to shampooing and do it when they’ve applied conditioner. But you must detangle prior to washing your hair to minimise excess shedding.

Work in sections

Work in sections of 4 to 6 depending on the length of your hair. This will make detangling, styling and washing your hair a smoother process.

Wear styles that don’t need to be re-done daily

Daily styling and over manipulation leads to breakage and loss of hair. Stick to protective styles that keep your hands out of your hair for at least 1 week. Type 4 hair is versatile enough for you to have several styling options. Experiment with buns, twists, braids, cornrow, afro puffs etc. Whatever style you choose, make sure you don’t do the same style back to back to give your hair a break and reduce any tension on your hairline.

Stay on top of trims

Trim your hair every 12 weeks to minimise split ends and single strand knots travelling up the hair shaft. Keeping on top of your trims makes detangling easier, keeps your coils defined and improves the overall health of your hair.

Frequently Asked Questions

1: How do you treat type 4 hair?

Use deep conditioning treatments to replenish your hair. It doesn’t have to be every wash day but aim for at least once a month. Deep conditioners are good for adding moisture back into the hair whilst minimising frizz and dryness. It also helps repair damage and nourish your hair back to health. Read our Deep Conditioning guide for Type 4 Naturals for some product recommendations.

Clay Washes are another treatment that is quite underrated but offers great benefits. It’s not something you should do regularly but a nice treat for your hair especially for low porosity naturals. It draws out impurities from your scalp and deeply clarifies your hair follicles making it easier for water and moisture to be absorbed. They also have healing and regenerative properties, getting rid of dryness and flakiness whilst adding shine back into your hair.

2: How do you hydrate type 4 hair?

The best way to keep your hair hydrated is utilising the LOC or LCO method to moisturise your hair. It keeps moisture locked into your strands for at least a week by sealing with an oil or butter. Read our article on LOC vs LCO method! Which one should you choose?

Wear a silk or satin scarf at night and sleep on a silk pillowcase for that extra protection. Cotton is known for absorbing oils and moisture from hair and skin leading to dryness.

Staying hydrated from the inside is another way to get extra hydration into your hair strands. Aim to drink up to 2 litres per day.

3: How do I stop my type 4 hair from shedding?

Shedding is a normal part of your hair’s life cycle. Women typically shed 50 – 100 days per day so it shouldn’t be something you’re alarmed about. However, excessive shedding is a problem! You’ll know if you have excess shedding from the amount that falls out on wash days or when styling your hair.

Excessive shedding is caused by a variety of factors such as stress, diet, hair care practices etc. As shedding is part of your hair growth cycle – you’ll need to replenish your strands starting from the inside as opposed to just your hair regimen. Here are some things worth incorporating into your regimen.
1. Eat a well balanced diet with lots of protein. Protein strengthens hair strands and will be a good source for replenishing your follicles.
2. Take hair supplements and vitamins known for boosting your hair health.
3. Incorporate scalp massages into your routine. Scalp massages boost the flow of blood into your follicles and help thicken your strands.
4. Increase your water intake – water helps keeps you hydrated and will act as a source of moisture for your strands.
Another thing that could be contributing to shedding is if you’re lacking iron or have a vitamin D deficiency. It’s worth doing a blood test to know exactly what your ferritin and Vitamin D levels are and discuss the results with your doctor to get advice on what supplements to take. Black people tend to have low levels of Vitamin D in western countries due to the lack of sun.

“A vitamin D deficiency affects your hair life cycle and is associated with scarring alopecia”. ¹

4: Why is my type 4 hair breaking?

Type 4 hair is prone to breakage due to the nature and shape of the hair strands. They’re tightly coiled and moisture tends to have a difficult time travelling through the length of the strands. As a result, your hair can become brittle and extremely dry leading to breakage. It’s important to incorporate good hair practices to minimise breakage and keep your hair hydrated at all times.

Here are some things you might be doing that could lead to breakage;
- Over manipulating your hair with daily styling
- Excessive use of heat
- Bleaching hair excessively
- Protective styles that pull on your and are too tight
- Not washing your hair and keeping up with your moisture routine whilst wearing protective styles
Be mindful of these things and adjust your hair regimen accordingly. You’ll notice the word excessive is used when it comes to heat and bleaching. There are many naturals who use heat and dye their hair but have healthy hair. So it’s not a case you can’t do these things but moderation is key!

Final Thoughts

You should now have a thorough understanding of Type 4 hair and be able to identify if you have 4A, 4B or 4C texture. The key to maintaining Type 4 hair lies in your hair regimen and we hope you’ve been able to come away with some tips on how to maintain it.

If you’re new on your journey or struggling to embrace your hair then read our article on 5 ways to embrace your natural hair journey.

Are you a 4A, 4B or 4C Natural? And What’s your no 1 tip for maintaining your Type 4 hair?

Leave a comment below, we’d love to hear from you.

References :
1. Saini K, Mysore V. Role of vitamin D in hair loss: A short review. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2021 Nov;20(11):3407-3414. doi: 10.1111/jocd.14421. Epub 2021 Sep 22. PMID: 34553483. ↩︎
January 25, 2024
Silk Press Tips : 10 Maintenance Tricks You Need To Know
As much as we love silk presses! The hardest part of getting a silk press is the maintenance and getting it to last without reverting and heat damage. Most Naturalistas struggle with their curl pattern reverting once they get in contact with steam, heat or sweat. Especially Type 4 Naturalistas who have a coarser and tighter texture. We’ll be delving into some silk press tips to help you get the most out of the style. Plus run through some FAQ’s to help you care for your coils and curls.

Silk presses are great for switching up your natural kinks, coils and curls for a sleeker and straighter look. It gives you a new look without having to chemically alter your hair strands with relaxers, keratin treatments and texture releases. They’re awesome for when you want to wear straighter hairstyles for special occasions like weddings, events, nights out etc. Once you get a silk press – you feel like a new person. To be honest – with any hairstyle you feel like a new woman! You can go from being Brandy with braids to Nia Long with a pixie cut and Beyonce with a weave. That’s the beauty of natural hair – you have so much versatility with your styling options.

What is a silk press?

A silk press is a technique used to straighten your Type 3 & Type 4 hair texture without using any form of chemicals. The process differs from using just a flat iron due to the technique and products used to give it the soft and silky look without weighing down your natural hair. It’s basically a wash, blow dry and press using lightweight serums and leave ins.

The technique includes blow drying your coils and curls in a stretched straight state to achieve a blowout look. Followed up with a flat iron to help seal in that extra smoothness and silkiness with 1 to 2 passes. If done correctly, you shouldn’t have any heat damage and your hair should revert back to its natural state once you wash it.

How long does a silk press last?

They typically last 2 to 4 weeks depending on how you maintain it. It’s likely your roots will become puffier at the end of the 2nd week due to sweat, moisture and weather. However, the majority of your hair should still remain straight until you fully saturate your hair with water and wash your hair. Some naturals will have slightly longer results if they silk press regularly and have trained their hair.

Source : Nappy Images @reishareynolds

10 Tips & Tricks for making your Silk Press last longer

1. Avoid Moisture

We all know moisture is key for natural hair to grow and thrive but in a silk press environment. Moisture and humidity is the enemy! Once you get in contact with it – your hair will begin to revert and puff up again. Now there will be points of the day it’ll be impossible to stay away from moisture completely. For instance – when you shower in the morning, sweat from working out and humid or rainy weather conditions.

Here are some tips on how you can minimise moisture whilst rocking your silk press:
- Showering
- Wrap your hair tightly in a scarf (in fact 2 for that extra protection), then bonnet and wear a shower cap on top to lock out the steam
- You might want to shower with lukewarm water as opposed to a higher temperature to reduce the steam.
- Washing your face
- Make sure your hair is wrapped or pinned away before washing your face. For extra protection, wear a towel headband along your hairline. This will help soak excess water and stop it from travelling to the rest of your hair
- Working out
- Wear your hair in a ponytail and apply a scarf. Wear a sweatband on your forehead or directly on top of your hairline to soak up the sweat
- DO NOT remove your scarf until your hair is completely dry! This will help your hair dry back in a stretched state as opposed to reverting
2. Prep your Hair – Clarify and Deep Conditioning Treatment

Prepping your hair is a really important step if you want your silk press to last. To get a nice flowy look your hair needs to be washed thoroughly and all product build up should be removed from your hair and scalp. Silk presses won’t last on dirty hair – simple as! So wash your hair with a clarifying shampoo and then follow up with a moisturising shampoo to make sure your scalp is clean.

It’s also important to get as much moisture locked into your hair strands prior to the straightening process. Get a deep conditioning treatment with hydration benefits and use steam to help the product penetrate through your hair shaft. Then follow up with a liquid based leave in conditioner. This helps you lock in as much moisture as possible to keep your hair healthy and not dry whilst wearing the style.

Source : GIPHY @shalitagrant

3. Stay away from water based and heavy products

Water will revert your hair so you want to stay away from any moisturisers that contain liquid. Instead you’ll want to use lightweight oils and serums. Be careful not to be too heavy handed with products. The last thing you’ll want is greasy looking hair. Too much product on your silk press will weigh it down and you’ll no longer have that flowy silky look.

4. Wrap your hair at night

Don’t go to bed without wrapping your hair no matter how tired you are! Trust me, you’ll regret it in the morning. Wrap your hair at night with a silk scarf and then wear a bonnet on top. For extra protection opt for a satin or silk pillowcase in case your scarf wants to go for walkies in the middle of the night! (Bad joke! But you get the gist).

5. Touch up on a low setting

You want to avoid re-adding heat to your hair once your silk press has been done. But may need to touch up your hair depending on how long you plan to wear your silk press for. To avoid any form of heat damage, stick to blow drying your roots on a low setting. We’d avoid re-straightening but if you have to – work in sections and do 1 pass. Your silk press should look as good as brand new with a touch up here and there.

6. Style with flexi rods and pin curls once your roots start frizzing

This is one of our fav tips to get more out of your silk press without having to reapply heat. You can experiment with flexi rods, rollers and pin curls. It won’t be super sleek but it’ll still be straight with a slight bounce to it. This is a great way of styling out puffy roots whilst making the most of your press. You can go a step further by experimenting with different styles. You could do a half up half down style or pin up part of your hair with a claw clip.

Source : Unsplash @eyeforebony

7. Try a Dry Shampoo

If your hair is becoming greasy from oils/serums starting to weigh your hair down. You can use a dry shampoo to remove the grease and stretch your style for another week or 2. It’s important not to be heavy handed with products when wearing a silk press so bear that in mind when styling your hair daily.

8. Use products that fight away humidity

There are various products on the market that help fight away frizz so opt for products that have these properties when choosing, serums, oils and heat protectants. Although these ingredients don’t completely get rid of humidity – it definitely helps keep it at bay making your style last longer.

9. Use wax sticks & edge control

It’s likely you’ll have multiple fly aways after getting a silk press. Instead of re-straightening and trying to get them completely perfect – use a wax stick to keep them in place. Style your edges with edge control and not gel. Gel has liquid based properties and will lead to frizz.

10. Go to a Professional

If you’re unsure of how to do a silk press then go to a professional who specialises in it. Ask for some tips on how to maintain your silk press and get some product recommendations. Talk the stylist through pain points you’ve had in the past and they should be able to offer you a tailored solution that’ll work best for your hair type and lifestyle.

Source : Pexels @rdnestockproject

Product Recommendations

Here are some popular products recommended by Naturalista’s who regularly get a silk press.

1. Chi Silk Infusion

2. BioSilk Silk Therapy

3. Design Essentials Agave & Lavender weightless Thermal Protectant Serum

4. Living Proof Instant De-Frizzer (Unfortunately, the Humidity Shield was discontinued)

5. Color Wow Dreamcoat Spray (This product is designed to keep out humidity. Th extra strength is better suited for Type 4 naturals and must be used on damp hair prior to blow drying)

Frequently Asked Questions

1: How do I keep my silk press from frizzing?

The key is to stay away from moisture and humidity. Wrap your hair whenever you’re at home with a silk or satin scarf to minimise your ends from rubbing on your clothes. Use products with anti frizz properties and you might want to try a hair spray you can lightly mist your hair with prior to heading out. You’ll also want to be mindful of how you style your hair in very humid conditions.

2: How do I make my silk press look fuller?

Add flat curls to your ends or bump your ends with a straightener to help add volume. You can also add some soft rollers at night to give you that 90’s blow out look that is straight but still full of volume. If your hair is really fine – you can add a couple tracks that match your hair texture for more volume. It doesn’t have to be a lot – 2 – 4 tracks will suffice.

3: How damaging is a silk press?

If done correctly, you shouldn’t experience any damage from a silk press. Heat doesn’t damage hair but EXCESSIVE HEAT damages hair! Prior to getting a silk press make sure your hair is in a healthy state and not already damaged. If you have split ends, it’s best to get them snipped to prevent it from travelling further. If your hair is damaged from colour or excessive breakage then it’s best to stay away from silk presses until you nourish your hair back to health.

Once you wash your hair, your natural curls and coils will revert. Just be mindful of how often you get a silk press and not re-adding heat constantly to keep your hair healthy.

4: Can you workout with a silk press?

Yes – you can workout with a silk press but have to be extra careful with your maintenance routine. Here are some steps to follow;
- Step 1 : Put hair in a high ponytail
- Step 2 : Apply a scarf
- Step 3 : Place a sweatband on top to soak up any sweat along your hairline
- Step 4 : DO NOT REMOVE your scarf until your hair is fully dry!
- Step 5 : Once dry – style as normal or wrap your hair
FINAL THOUGHTS

We hope you found our silk press tips helpful. Silk Presses are great but it’s all about the technique and products you use to get your hair in a silky straight state. Make sure to do the prep needed to get enough moisture into your hair strands to keep your hair healthy.

Source: GIPHY @ashtaeproducts

Have you tried any of these TIP’s? Do you have any further suggestions?

We’d love to hear from you. Leave a comment below
January 17, 2024
15 Hair Growth Tips For 4C Natural Hair
Out of all the Type 4 hair types, 4C hair is known to be the tightest and coarsest out of all the afro hair textures. The curl pattern is quite unique and made out of really tight zig-zag curls and coils which are closely packed together. 4C Hair is probably the most popular hair type for most Naturalistas and sometimes comes with its challenges when on a hair growth journey. This is due to the amount of shrinkage you’ll experience with this curl type. Despite its challenges – the texture it’s absolutely gorgeous and with the right hair maintenance routine and TLC – you’ll begin to love your 4C hair more and more.

There’s a misconception that 4C Hair can’t grow but we’re here to dispel that myth with 15 tips to help you make the most of your hair 4C hair growth journey whilst falling in love with your texture at the same time.

Characteristics of 4C Natural Hair

4C and 4B hair can be easily confused due to the similarities of their coil patterns. If you’re unsure if you have 4C hair – here are some characteristics to help you figure it out.
- Tight Z shaped pattern
- Coily hair texture
- Significant shrinkage, up to 70% of your stretched
- Strands clump together
- Thick and coarse hair (although it’s also possible to have fine 4c hair)
- Prone to tangles and breakage
Source : GIPHY

NOTE : It’s definitely possible to have multiple textures. For instance I have a mix of 4B and 4C hair strands but one texture is likely to outweigh the other.

15 4C Natural Hair Growth Tips to Try

1.Detangle with care

This is the stage where you’re likely to lose most of your new hair growth and length. Especially if you don’t exercise patience and use some TLC. The 4C hair texture is prone to tangling and knots so using the right technique and products is the best way to minimise any hair loss you’ve worked so hard to grow and retain. Here are some detangling tips to follow:
- Spritz your hair with water to make it easier to work with
- Finger detangle first before using detangling tools
- Use the right detangling tool such as a wide tooth comb. Be careful with detangling brushes, sometimes they can rip out more hair then intended. You can always use a flexi detangling brush which glides with the direction of your hair
- Use a detangler to give you extra slip. If you don’t have a detangler then use conditioner
- Always works in sections – ideally 4 but if you have shorter hair then 6 to 8
Source : Pexels

2. Dry hair in stretched state

This is KEY. 4C hair shrinks up to 70% of its stretched state so it’s important to dry hair stretched to minimise further pulling and tugging when it’s time to style your hair. Some benefits of working on stretched hair are as follows:
- You can track your hair growth better
- Minimises knots and tangles
- Minimises over manipulation from detangling
- Easier to work with
3. Moisture, moisture and more moisture

We’ve all heard moisture is key to retain length for Type 4 hair textures. As 4C hair is naturally dry – you want to spend more time moisturising your hair to prevent breakage tangles and knots. Ideally you’ll want to use a method that helps lock in the moisture for longer such as the LOC or LCO method. Your hair porosity will determine which method is better, click here to read our post on Hair Porosity which gives you a breakdown on how to do a porosity test!

4. Scalp massages

“Research conducted back in 2016 and 2019 found that regular scalp massages led to thicker hair strands. The study was conducted on 9 men who spent 4 mins a day massaging their scalp over a 24 week period. The results found a significant increase in hair thickness at the 24 week mark compared to when they initially started.”¹

Scalp massages are known to increase the blood flow into your hair follicles supporting you to achieve hair growth goals. Although it might be difficult to do this daily, you’ll want to incorporate it into your routine at least a couple times a week. You can use your finger tips or purchase a head massager. If you’d like to take this a step further then you can massage your scalp with a growth oil. The length of time you spend massaging your scalp also has a part to play. To increase the blood flowing to your follicles do it for at least 5 minutes for optimal results.

Source : GIPHY

5. Heat is not the enemy

We’ve all heard not to use heat as it damages hair but the truth is heat is not the enemy. Excessive heat styling is the enemy! As 4C hair is fine and can break easily – you’ll definitely want to minimise the amount of times you heat but there is no harm in using it on wash days. Specifically blow drying your hair on a low heat setting to get it fully stretched. You’ll want to limit your heat usage to once or twice a month and use a heat protectant. Don’t be heavy handed when blow drying. There are a lot of straight naturals whose hair are thriving from using heat in moderation. It’s all about how you maintain the style and do not go back in to blow dry or straighten everyday.

I recently received some feedback from my hairstylist who recommended I use heat to blow dry my hair as I wasn’t retaining enough of my new growth with my regular air drying method. I usually air dry with twists but it shrinks in a shrunken state which leads to me having to spend more time detangling when styling my hair leading to more hair loss. I’ve noticed my hair is a lot easier to style once dry. If you’ll be using a blow dry I recommend doing it once or twice a month on a low setting and you can follow up with higher heat setting for a short while to minimise your heat usage.

6. Protective styling

This is key for retaining your length. Protective styles help keep your ends tucked away and minimises over manipulation from daily styling. The great thing about these styles is there are multiple options available depending on your preference. To make the most of your 4C Natural hair growth, it’s best to opt for cornrow based hair styles if possible as your hair is completely protected underneath. Styles such as sew-ins, cornrows with or without braiding hair and crochet braids are some fan favourites. If you prefer other styles, you can try the following;
- Braids (avoid medium sized braids)
- Mini Twists (with or without extensions)
- Bantu knots
- Flat Twists
- African Threading
Source : Pexels

Regardless of the style you choose, don’t keep your style in for longer than 8 weeks! Have you ever worn a protective style for too long and noticed build up, dryness and difficulty detangling your hair? Well that’s because you’ve kept the style in for too long and probably didn’t have a natural hair care routine whilst wearing the style. As most protective styles utilise some form of extensions – you want to ensure you’re not wearing them for too long so it’s not adding tension to your hairline but also give you an opportunity to fully cleanse your hair and get rid of dead hair that has been trapped in the style.

7. Create a protective styling regimen

Protective styling doesn’t mean you shouldn’t wash or cleanse your hair. In fact, for 4C natural hair to grow – it’s important to have a clean scalp so your hair can thrive. Adopting little things such as moisturising regularly, washing your scalp and sealing your hair with an oil prevents your hair from drying out and helps your hair remain healthy. Depending on the style you choose, you’re likely to have different maintenance routine but here are a couple options you can adopt to help you out:
1. Wash hair at least every 3 to 4 weeks
2. Spritz hair with a leave-in conditioner at least once a week and seal with an oil. If you have a cream based leave in conditioner, you can mix it with water in a spray bottle to create a liquid mixture
3. Use a growth oil but be careful not clog up your follicles. Your scalp naturally produces oils so you don’t want to be too heavy handed with the amount you apply. Start with once a week and then decide if you should do it more or less depending on your hair needs. Also, make sure you massage the oil into your scalp
4. Take extra care with your edges. If you feel the style is adding too much tension to your hairline then it’s best to take it out to minimise any damage.
8. Take a break in between protective styling

Doing the same protective styling back to back is not the best way to achieve hair growth. You want to give your hair a break in between styles and let your scalp breath. Although protective styling is great for hair retention and hair growth, most of the styles add tension to your hairline which will make it slightly fragile. Opt for different styles in between the breaks such as buns, twist outs and braid outs to give your hair a break prior to installing your next style.

Source : Unsplash

10. Cleansing routine

Wash days can be a pain at times but it’s important to have a clean scalp for your 4C hair to grow. Unfortunately the myth of dirty hair helping hair grow isn’t true! Think about it like this – you won’t go days without washing your face because it’ll lead to clogged up pores, irritation and you’ll eventually end up with pimples and spots. Well the same applies to your hair. If you spend so much attention and care on your skin regimen then you need to do the same for your scalp. Dirt clogs up hair follicles, leads to itchiness and irritation – you want to make sure your scalp and hair is in the best condition to create an environment for your hair to thrive.

9. Trim ends regularly

Don’t skip trimming your ends! It’s as simple as that! Try and trim your hair every 12 weeks. If your hair is already damaged you might do it a bit more regularly such as the 8 – 10 week mark to get rid of any split ends and damage sooner. If your hair is healthy and you’ll like to stretch your trims a bit longer then don’t go past the 16 week mark. You’ll figure out what works best for you once you start incorporating trims into your regimen. Read our article on the benefits of trimming for length retention to learn more.

11. Don’t be a product junkie

We’ve all been guilty of doing this at one point during our natural hair journey. Trust me I’ve been there – buying things because one Naturalista says it works for them, you try it and don’t have the same results and then it sits on the shelf for years. When choosing products, try products that are recommended from other 4C Naturalistas. If possible purchase a tester bottle or the smallest size to see how your hair reacts. Pay attention to whether the products you’re using cause more drying or excessive build up to know if you should continue or not.

One of the things that was a game changer for me was paying attention to how my hair reacted to products after I used it to decide if I should continue or not. There are so many options on the market, you’ll find something that works for you. Once you do, stick to it and you’ll begin to see a difference.

Source : iStock by GettyImages

12. Deep conditioning treatments

4C hair benefits a lot from deep conditioning due to the coil pattern drying out easily. They add extra nourishment and hydration to your hair whilst strengthening your hair cuticles. Definitely apply heat when doing the treatment to help the product penetrate deep into your hair shaft. Do this at least once a month and to get the full benefits. Read our guide on deep conditioning for type 4 hair and if you’re interested in DIY recipes then check out this article on homemade deep conditioners to try for natural hair.

13. Make sure hair isn’t too tight

As you’ll be wearing protective styles regularly to retain length, you want to make sure your hairstyle isn’t too tight. Especially when wearing buns and ponytail styles. Speak up during your appointments when getting braids or twists – if the stylist is braiding too tightly tell them right away instead of waiting to the end. You want to avoid any excessive tension that will lead to hair loss and eventually lead to alopecia. This is why cornrow based protective styles tend to be a better option for hair growth.

15. Pay attention to your scalp

We regularly ignore our scalp in comparison to our hair. 4C hair growth begins at the scalp as that’s where the follicles are based so it’s important to pay attention to your scalp and assess it. If you experience excessive itchiness, dryness or flakes then it might be worth doing a scalp treatment to help eradicate the problem. There are multiple scalp treatments on the market so do your research and if you’re unsure then go to a natural hair salon who specialises in type 4 hair who can give you some advice on what treatment to try.

14. Protect your hair at night

This is a golden rule, sleep with a silk or satin scarf AND/OR bonnet. If you struggle with your scarf staying on all night then you can purchase a silk or satin pillowcase for added protection. Cotton pillowcases are known for drying out hair whilst silk pillowcases help keep moisture in your coils/curls for longer. Satin pillowcases too, tend to be significantly cheaper than silk but it won’t retain moisture as well as silk.

Source : Pexels

Bonus tip – Diet and Health!

It’s always good to maintain a good diet, you want to ensure you’re nourished from the inside out. Eating a balanced diet of healthy foods such as vegetables, lean meats and fish will contribute to you achieving your 4C natural hair growth goals. Hair is made of protein and for your 4C natural hair to thrive you need a balance of protein and moisture. Increasing your protein intake can contribute to hair growth and healthy hair.

FAQS

1: What helps 4C hair grow faster?

Hair growth begins with your scalp and various factors can contribute to how fast it grows such as genetics, eating habits and supplements. As a result, some 4C Naturals hair will grow faster than others. The key to 4C hair growth is a consistent regimen that helps you maintain healthy hair and retain length. Some things that can help speed up your hair growth such as scalp massages and using supplements like biotin. You can also use hair growth oils such as Jamaican black castor oil and rosemary oil but remember consistency is key! Don’t use these things in isolation and they must be used over a lengthy period of time i.e 3 to 6 months to see results. Incorporate them with some of the 15 tips we mentioned above and you’ll see an improvement.

2: Is 4C hair the hardest to grow?

4C hair is naturally dry, fragile and brittle in comparison to other hair types which means it is prone to breakage and damage. The coils clump together and you experience a significant amount of shrinkage which makes it appear like your hair isn’t growing even though it is. The hardest part of hair growth for any Type 4 hair is length retention! Your hair is growing but due to styling and over manipulation – you’re probably not holding onto enough of your new growth which is why protective styling and detangling with care are key contributors to 4c hair growth.

3: Why is my 4C natural hair always dry?

Due to the nature of the 4C coil pattern being really tight. Moisture can have a hard time penetrating through the hair strands making your hair appear dry and brittle. Getting the adequate amount of moisture into your 4C hair strands will keep it from drying out. Incorporating treatments like deep conditioning and hot oil treatments will help with moisture retention. But it’s also important to moisturise your hair regularly – depending on your hair porosity you can use the LOC or LCO methods to help the moisture stay in your strands for longer. It’s also important to use the right ingredients which have enough hydration. Using oils and butters alone will not moisturise your hair – it’ll just sit on top.

4: Should you moisturise 4c hair everyday?

You can definitely moisturise your 4C hair daily but just be mindful of over moisturising as it’ll make your hair limp and mushy if you don’t have the right moisture/protein balance. Personally, I would recommend moisturising every couple of days if you’re suffering from extreme dryness. This is why you have to be mindful of what hair products you use. When testing products, see how your hair reacts to it. Ask yourself: “Is it drying my hair out OR does it just sit on top of my hair strands?” AND “Does my hair feel moisturised and hydrated?”

There is no harm in refreshing your hair daily with a spray bottle that contains a mixture of water and leave in conditioner. Just be mindful that if you’ve sealed your hair with an oil or butter – it might not penetrate all the way through. Read our post on moisturising vs sealing oils to understand which one you should incorporate into your moisturising routine.

Check out this video to learn more about when and how to moisturise 4C natural hair:

FINAL THOUGHTS

As you can see, maintaining, growing and retaining 4C hair requires a variety of different elements incorporated into your hair regimen for your hair to thrive. The key is consistency and patience. If you try one of the tips and it doesn’t work for you then it’s okay to drop it. You have to trust the process and give yourself a bit of time to see results. Remember – your hair is beautiful, enjoy the process and embrace the journey. You can’t change the hair on your head but you can grow to love it by knowing how to care for it properly.

We hope this post helped you, we’d love to hear from you in the comment section.

What’s been your biggest struggle with your 4C hair growth journey? OR What have you found most useful and helpful to achieve your 4C hair growth goals?

REFERENCES
1. Standardized Scalp Massage Results in Increased Hair Thickness by Inducing Stretching Forces to Dermal Papilla Cells in the Subcutaneous Tissue : Taro Koyama, PHD, MD, Kazuhiro Kobayashi MD, Takanori Hama, Kasumi Murakami and Rei Ogawa, PHD, MD. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/ar ticles/PMC4740347/ ↩︎
December 27, 2023
The truth about braids for hair growth & length retention
Braids are one of the most popular protective hairstyles for black women. They’re the perfect holiday hairstyle, last a long time, easy to style and keep your ends protected. Braids can have a positive impact on length retention and helps you make the most of your new growth. How? You may wonder! Well, your hands are kept out of your hair whilst wearing the style which minimises wear and tear that comes with daily styling. But with any protective style moderation is key! It’s also important to know how to maintain your natural hair whilst wearing braids to get the most out of your hair growth and minimise any breakage or excessive shedding when you finally decide to take them out.

We’ll be giving you a run down on how braids can contribute to your hair growth goals. Plus TIP’s on what TO DO/ NOT DO to make the most of your length retention whilst wearing your braids.

Are braids good for length retention?

Braids are a great way to retain length but to get the most out of your hair growth you need to ensure you maintain them effectively. The length, size and tightness of the braids all have a part to play. Here’s 3 ways braids contribute to length retention:
- Less Manipulation – when wearing braids, you don’t have to deal with daily styling! Your hair is left alone giving it the opportunity to thrive without constantly touching it. Excessive styling of hair is known to contribute to shedding and breakage if not done with the right styling tools, being done too frequently or being heavy handed. It’s okay to leave your hair alone and let it breathe which is what braids offer you.
- Minimal Detangling – Detangling is part and parcel of every Naturalista’s life. Type 4 hair is prone to tangling due to its tight curl pattern. When detangling, it’s all about detangling with care and using products with the right amount of slip to make the process easier. As your hair is tucked away in braids for at least 6 to 8 weeks – you’ll experience less hair loss from the detangling process.
- Protected Ends – The ends of our hair is the oldest part which means it’s prone to breakage, split ends and knots. Keeping ends protected helps minimise split ends travelling up the hair shaft and can contribute to length retention because you’ll be snipping a minimal amount when it’s time for your trim.
Can braids make your hair grow longer?

The truth is braids does not make your hair grow. There is a big misconception regarding growth and retention when it comes to braids. Scientifically, hair starts from “new cells forming in the hair bulb. Once the cells stick together and harden, the full strand of hair develops. They attach to the hair from below and gradually push up out of the skin”. ¹There are various phases to the hair growth cycle known as the Anagen, Transitional and Resting Phase. The Anagen phase is also known as the growth phase. “At any point in time, about 90 percent of a person’s total amount of hair is in this growth phase.” So as long as new cells are continuously created in the hair bulb then your hair is likely to grow longer. Click here to learn more about the hair growth cycle.

Now there are various things that can contribute to hair growth such as genetics, diet, lifestyle, hair maintenance routine etc. But braids alone can’t grow your hair. You’re likely to feel like your hair has grown quicker and longer faster because you can clearly see your new growth as your braids begin to grow out. The truth is the growth is just more visible because it’s more obvious compared to if you were wearing your hair in a bun or twist out everyday. Don’t let this discourage you from wearing braids because although it doesn’t contribute to growth. Braids help you retain length you wouldn’t have been able to hold onto if your hair wasn’t protected.

Is it healthy to put your hair in braids?

We’ve all seen the horror stories that come with braids, especially when you’ve seen people experience thinning edges, alopecia or scalp irritation. But it’s important to note that wearing braids is healthy whether you decide to use your own natural hair or braiding hair to create your braids. Aside from it being a great protective style, wearing braids can add many benefits to your natural hair. Here are 5 ways braids can contribute to your hairs health:
- Helps lock in moisture and hydration within the hair strands
- Prevents split ends for natural wear and tear
- Prevents breakage
- Protects hair whilst you sleep
- Low Maintenance
Are braids good for thinning hair?

In a nutshell NO. If you’re hair is already fragile and thinning. Wearing braids could lead to additional damage. Braids are usually done with synthetic or human braiding hair. Although they’re not heavy when you feel them, you’ll be attaching the braiding hair to individual strands of your hair which will add tension to your hair follicles. If you’re not careful – you could end up with alopecia.

So what’s the option if you like wearing braids. Well, you might want to opt for something like crochet braids. In this style, your hair is cornrowed down and the braiding hair is crochet’d on top of the cornrows. The reason why this method works so well is because your natural hair is already braided down to your scalp. Leading to less pulling on tugging on your natural hair when styling.

Why am I losing so much hair after braiding?

It’s normal for your hair to shed between 50 to 100 hairs a day. Once you’ve taken out your braids, it might feel like you’ve lost alot of hair but it’s most likely to be hair that shed and was trapped in between the braids. So don’t panic if you notice alot more hair falling out then you normally do. Now there’s a difference between shedding and breakage. I’d say it’s important to distinguish between the two to know if you should be panicking or not. A quick way to tell the difference between the two is shed hair tends to be the full length of your hair strand whereas breakage tends to be shorter and brittle strands.

Here are a few ways you can minimise excessive shedding and loss of healthy hair strands whilst removing your braids

1. Take ur time :

Don’t be in a rush when taking out your braids. Be prepared for it to take a couple of hours, you want to use the same amount of care at the beginning of the braid removal process as the last braid. You can rope in a friend and take breaks in between if needed.

2. Don’t be heavy handed :

This is pretty self-explanatory, it’s likely some of your braiding hair can get tangled with your hair when pulling or tugging. So be gentle to ensure you’re not pulling and ripping out your natural hair.

3. Loosen from the tip upwards :

Always loosen the braid from the tip before moving upwards.

4. Detangle with care :

You can use a detangling product and spritz your hair with water to make the detangling process easier. Depending on how long you’ve had your braids in, you’re likely to experience some build up. So take your time to remove the build up from each section as opposed to detangling it all at once. Remember: working in sections and on damp hair makes detangling easier.

How long should I wear my Braids? And How often do braids need to be re-done?

Stick to 8 weeks and if you want to stretch your braids a little longer than 10 weeks max. Like any protective style, there is a limit to how long you can wear it. For instance, if you keep your braids in for too long, you can end up with excessive buildup which would make the removal and detangling process harder.

Braids around your hairline tend to grow older quicker than the rest purely because it tends to be the shorter part of your hair but also because it’s the area you tend to style the most. You can always get this re-done around the 3 – 4 week mark. This helps the style look fresher but also minimises any pulling of the hair along your hair line.

Top Tips for Using Braids for Length Retention

Additional Tip’s for using braids to achieve optimal length retention

Having the right maintenance routine will have a huge impact on how much length you retain whilst wearing braids. We’ve broken down some Do’s & Don’ts of what to do to help you on your journey.

* TIP : Everyone’s hair is different so test them out and see how they work for you. You can always adopt the tips to suit you as and when needed.

Do’s of Wearing Braids for length retention

1. Wash your scalp :

We would recommend at least once a month if you want to limit frizz. How often you wash your braids really depends on your lifestyle. For instance, if you’re a regular in the gym and your scalp is itchy from sweat then you might want to wash your hair more often.

2. Ensure your hair is fully DRY :

This is an important step! If you’re hair is damp and not fully dry then you’ll have an irritable scalp and your braids will smell like mould. You can definitely air dry your braids but to speed things up then use a blow dryer to dry the roots and let the rest of your braids air dry.

3. Moisturise & Seal ends :

Get into the habit of moisturising and sealing your ends. Although your hair is protected, it still needs moisture to thrive and not become overly dry. You can mix your leave in conditioner with some water in a spray bottle and spritz across the length of your braids. For extra protection, seal with an oil to keep your hair hydrated for longer.

4. Re-do Braids Along Hairline:

If you noticed the braids along the hairline are pulling on your edges. Then theres no harm in re-doing it so it doesn’t rip out your hair. You can get it re-done every 3 – 4 weeks which will help keep your hair looking fresh and limit the damage to your hair follicles.

5. Have Break:

If braids are your go to style then have a break in between braids. Like any protective style, moderation is key. Excessively doing the same hairstyle can lead to damage so its best to give yourself at least a week or 2 break before re-braiding.

6. Speak Up:

If you notice your stylist is braiding your hair too tightly then speak up there and then! Don’t let your stylist go rogue with what they want to do and end up regretting it after. Let them know straight away if there pulling your hair too tight and stop them from continuing. Change stylists next time if you’re not happy.

Don’ts of Wearing Braids for length retention

1. Tight styles :

Don’t constantly wear your hair up or in tight ponytail styles. This adds tension to your hairline and can end up pulling on your hairline eventually damaging your hair follicles. This isn’t to say you cant wear your hair in buns or ponytails but just limit the amount of times and alternate your hairstyles.

2. Wear for too long

The advise is to stick to a maximum of 8 weeks. Some people do like to stretch their hairstyles so could potentially wear braids for longer such as 10 – 12 weeks. However, I wouldn’t go beyond that time and would pay extra attention to your hairline.

8 Ways to Style Your Braids

Final Thoughts

Braids are a great protective style and great way to maximise length retention. The key is to still have a maintenance routine whilst wearing them to ensure your hair and scalp is healthy. You’ll want to stick to medium sized braids and minimise tight hairstyles to make the most of your new hair growth. Braids offer you a variety of styling options whilst protecting your natural hair at the same time. It also requires minimal effort whilst wearing them so they’re a WIN WIN for Naturalista’s who don’t have as much time on their hands.

Here are some other braid articles that may be off interest to you;

How to Relieve Tight Braids and Treat Braid Bumps?

Everything you need to know about French Curl Braids

SOURCES :
1. What is the structure of hair and how does it grow? : IQWiG (Institute for Quality and Efficiency in Health Care) https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK546248/
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November 27, 2023
How to Rock Clip-in Extensions on Type 4 Natural Hair
Clip in extensions are taking the natural hair community by storm. It offers versatility, endless styling options, extra length and volume in minutes. It’s no wonder they’re so popular! Compared to 10 years ago, there are so many options on the market for Type 4 Naturalistas. The textures range from kinky, coily and curly which means there’s a texture to match every hair type regardless of if you have Type 4A, 4B or 4C hair. If you’re looking for overnight volume or length then clip-in extensions will give you that short term look. So what are you waiting for! Give clip in extensions a try – you’ll be surprised about how much you’ll love it.

Keep reading for a breakdown of everything you need to know about clip-in extensions and how to rock them with your type 4 hair. If you’re interested in learning more about the best extensions for natural hair, click here.

How to pick clip-in extensions that match your natural hair texture?

Picking the right clip in extensions for natural hair all comes down to the hair texture and ensuring it matches your natural coils and curls. The ones that match Type 4 hair usually come in 3 textures.

1. Kinky

Kinky is suitable for 4C & 4B hair, the texture mimics the z-pattern of 4C hair seamlessly and it’s the kinkiest texture of all the types. You can either choose kinky if you want to style your hair in its natural curl pattern or a kinky straight if you prefer to wear your hair stretched. Regardless of which one you choose, if you purchase human hair then you’ll be able to straighten the extensions.

2. Coily

Coily is suitable for 4A & 4B naturals. 4C naturals can also wear this but may need to manipulate their natural hair with a twist out or braid out for a seamless blend. The coily texture tends to be tight ringlet curls mimicking an s-pattern. Although 4B hair has a z-curl pattern, it also works very well with the coily texture.

3. Curly

Curly is suitable for type 3 naturals due to the looser curl pattern. If you’re a 3A or 3B natural then this is the curl pattern for you. The curly texture has a springy ringlet pattern also mimicking the s-pattern but a lot looser in comparison to the coily texture. It has medium coarseness and not as tight as the kinky and coily textures.

TIP – If you prefer to wear your hair slightly looser and regularly use techniques like braid outs, twist outs and shingling method to manipulate your curl pattern then you can try a texture one up from yours. For example, if you’re a 4C natural, purchase a coily curl texture instead of kinky.

Image Source : Istock by Getty Images

How to install clip in extensions?

Clip ins are easy to use which is why people love it so much. You can install them in less than 20 mins by yourself without having to go to a hairstylist. Here are 2 main techniques you can use to install your hair extensions.

Method 1 – Hair Left Out

Step 1 – Prep your clip-in extensions and your natural hair

Step 2 – Section your hair starting from the nape of your neck. It should be a straight line across from ear to ear and roughly an 1 – 2 inches from the nape.

Step 3 – Apply clips to parted section and secure them in place

Step 4 – Part another section of your hair (roughly 1 – 2 inches).Your hair should lay on top of the clips you placed previously covering the tracks.

Step 5 – Apply the next set of clips and secure them in place

Step 6 – Keep repeating until you get to the top of your hair

Step 7 – Blend your leave out and voila! Your good to go.

Image Source : GIPHY

Method 2 – Cornrows or Twists

Step 1 – Section your hair as you would a sew in leaving out the perimeter and parting

Step 2 – Cornrow or flat twist the remaining sections

Step 3 – Tuck in the ends or booby pin them upwards. Just make sure they lay flat so it’s not bulky

Step 4 – Apply clips starting from nape of your neck until you reach the top

Step 5 – Blend your leave out and perimeter of your hair with the clip ins

Image Source : GIPHY

Additional TIP’s
- Wash clip in extensions prior to installing and prep hair with a curling cream or mousse
- Prior to installation, get familiar with your clip-ins. The sizes vary so measure them against your hair so you know what order to clip them into your natural hair.
- Make sure your hair is fully detangled prior to installation to minimise matting
- If the clips feel uncomfortable, unclip them and re-clip them in another place
- Treat the clip-in extensions like your natural hair. Take care of them as you would your own hair so they last longer
- For additional blending, you can twist a small piece of your natural hair with the clip-ins for a seamless look.
How do you blend clip in extensions with real hair?

There are many techniques and methods to blend Type 4 natural hair with clip in extensions. It’s a bit of trial and error to figure out what option works best for your hair. Here are the most popular methods which will give you a seamless look.

1. Shingling Method :

This is by far my favourite method!. It works best with minimal leave out and makes it easy for your natural hair to blend with the clip in extensions. As the method utilises LOC or LCO, it also helps to ensure your coils and curls are moisturised whilst rocking your clip ins. Work with damp hair and apply your leave in conditioner followed by your curl cream throughout your hair. Work section by section, take a small piece of hair and stretch it whilst twirling it around your fingers. Repeat until you get through all your leave out and then let it air dry. For that extra definition, apply a hair gel after you’ve applied your hair cream.

2. Twist out :

You can either do a 2 strand or 3 strand twist to mimic the curl pattern of the hair extensions. When you unravel your twists, you’ll end up with a tight spiral or ringlet curl. This helps all the textures blend into one. We recommend a twist out for coily or curly extensions. TIP – make sure your twists aren’t too big to give you a tighter curl. You can also do a twist with the clip ins installed to help with blending.

3. Braid out :

Braid outs are similar to twists outs, the curl definition tends to be more wave-like enhancing your curl pattern and giving you that extra definition. This is great for all the clip in extension textures including kinky, coily or curly. You can also do a braid out with the clip in-extensions installed to ensure the texture matches your natural hair seamlessly.

4. No Leave Out Method :

This has become increasingly popular over the last couple of years and requires no leave out so less time blending. Your hair will be braided or twisted away making this a protective style. You’ll need to have 2 anchor braids for your parting as you’ll be crocheting the hair for it to blend. Don’t worry, if you haven’t crochet before – it’s pretty simple to do. You’ll just need to get used to the tool and you’ll be fine.

How long can you keep in clip in hair extensions?

You can usually keep in your clip in extensions in your hair for up to 7 days without having to reinstall them. It really depends on the method you choose to use to install them. For instance, if you hair is braided underneath then they’ll last slightly longer. If the clips are uncomfortable to sleep in, there is no harm taking them out before you go to bed and re-install them in the morning. The benefits of using clip-ins are they are quick and easy to apply so it shouldn’t take too long to re-apply in the mornings.

Some brands advice not to sleep in them but I’ve slept with my clip-ins many times without having any issues. Especially when I’m rocking bun styles or have cornrows underneath. If you do decide to sleep with them, make sure you wear a silk scarf and bonnet to protect your hair. When sleeping with clip-ins, use the pineapple method to preserve your curls which will make it easier to refresh in the morning.

FAQ’s re; Clip In Extensions for Natural Hair

1: Why won’t my hair extensions blend?

The main reason your clip in extensions aren’t blending with your natural hair is because the texture you purchased is completely different to your curl pattern. There’s no point purchasing a silky or body wave texture if you have afro textured hair. You’ll end up spend most of your time excessively straightening your hair which will eventually lead to heat damage. Always purchase a texture that closely matches your hair texture. There’s such a wide variety on the market that you should be able to find a texture that gives you a seamless blend.

Another reason could be that you’re leaving out too much of your natural hair. If this is the case, you can twist or braid your hair and apply the clip ins on top to minimise how much of your hair is left out. This is my preferred method as it acts as a protective style.

2: Can you wear your hair up with clip in extensions?

Yes – you can wear your hair up in a ponytail or an updo style. The way you apply the clips will be slightly different in this scenario. There a couple of methods you can follow;

Method 1 : Put your hair in a ponytail and braid whats loose into one big braid. Then clip the clip ins around the braid until you get to the top.Take a section of the clip ins and wrap it around the base of the ponytail and secure it with a bobby pin.

Method 2 : Section the middle of your hair and put it in a ponytail. Then apply your clips in an upwards motion around the ponytail. Keep sectioning your hair as you would normally and continue applying the clips until they’re all secured. You should have a perimeter of leave out left. Make sure it’s enough to cover the clips and tracks and then place your hair in a ponytail.

The only downside of these methods is it works best for medium to long hair. If you have short hair, it could end up being bulky. So try a drawstring ponytail if you want a seamless look. You’ll still achieve the desired look and it’ll be a lot less fuss trying to cover the tracks.

3: Do clip in extensions damage fine hair?

Yes – clip ins can add further damage to fine hair if you wear them too often. Damaged hair is more fragile and the clips can rub against your hair causing tension and friction. If you have damaged hair then it’s best to opt for a method where your hair is braided or flat twisted underneath the clips and have minimal leave out. This way your hair is protected from any tension and pulling on your natural hair.

4: How do I keep my clip in extensions from slipping?

The clips are designed to stay in place when attached, however, you can experience them slipping when you run your hands through your hair if they’re not secured properly. Here are some steps to follow to minimise them from slipping;
1. Ensure your clips are secured before installing the next set
2. Minimise the use oils on your hair and hands when applying
3. Braid, twist or cornrow your natural hair before installing your clip-ins. This creates a base to help your clips stay in place
4. Don’t be heavy handed when styling – you can always prep your clip in extensions before installation
5: Why do my clip in hair extensions keep matting?

The main two reasons your clip ins are matting. The first one is the quality of your hair extensions, cheaper isn’t always the best option when choosing your clip-ins. It’s always best to purchase from a brand who are known for their quality. Always do your research beforehand, read reviews and see what their customers have to say about the brand.

The second reason is you’re not detangling your clip-ins thoroughly and adopting a hair care routine. Type 4 Natural hair is prone to tangling due to the texture, so any hair extensions that mimic our natural hair is likely to have the same effect. Always detangle your clip-ins with care, the same way you would with your own natural hair. The products you choose to maintain and style them are also key.

Final Thoughts

Clip-in extensions are a personal favourite. I’ve been rocking them for years and absolutely love the versatility and the extra volume/length it adds to my different hairstyles. I love the fact you can’t tell if it’s your hair or not. It’s easy to apply and effortless to use for naturals who don’t have time to go to a hairstylist very often.

Our key tips will be to purchase quality hair extensions and create a natural hair care routine so they last a long time. Also, highly recommend braiding your hair underneath prior to installation so it doubles up as a protective style.

Do you wear clip-in extensions with your natural hair? What has your experience been? Are there any brands you’ll recommend for fellow Naturalista’s?

Leave a comment and share your experience. We’d love to hear your thoughts.
November 5, 2023