NaturalistaVibes

Category: Natural Haircare

Blog posts about everything you need to know about Natural Haircare for Type 4A, 4B & 4C hair. You’ll learn about natural hair education for maintaining and retaining healthy luscious locks. As well as tips and tricks to incorporate into your natural haircare regimen.

Eradicate Split Ends: Your Ultimate Guide to Healthy Afro Hair
Split ends are those pesky little buggers that can seriously sabotage your length retention goals. Unfortunately, on afro hair, split ends are harder to spot due to the natural coiling of our hair strands. Unless you frequently blow out your hair, you might not even notice them and mistakenly think your hair is healthy. But beneath those beautiful curls and coils,, you could have damaged, thinning ends!

In this comprehensive guide, we’ll walk you through everything you need to know about split ends on afro hair—how to spot them, treat them, and prevent them. Say goodbye to split ends and hello to healthy, vibrant hair. Let’s dive in and discover the secrets to maintaining radiant, split-end-free afro hair!

What are split ends?

If you’re experiencing split ends, you’re not alone! They’re caused from a variety of factors such styling, excessive use of heat, colour treatment and lack of moisture. Split ends are created from fibres breaking or splitting as a result of damage. They typically occur on the ends of your hair which is the weakest and most fragile because it’s the oldest part of your hair strands.

Afro hair is naturally fragile and split ends are a sign the outer layer of your hair strands are damaged. Although, typically occur on your ends – they can easily appear on other sections of your hair and can travel upwards to to the rest of your hair shaft leading to breakage.

It has a detrimental impact on your hair strands if not treated quickly. Leaving your hair brittle, dry and frizzy. As afro hair shrinks and coils around each other easily – it makes it harder for you to spot the splits. In the moment, you might feel your hair isn’t growing but you’re likely to be losing more length then retaining it because your ends are splitting at a faster rate due to the damaged cuticles.

Split End Types

How to identify if your afro hair has split ends?

Spotting split ends on natural hair can be quite tough bearing in mind your hair strands shrink up to 70% of its length. If you’re a natural who doesn’t blow out or straighten their hair regularly, it’ll make it even harder for you to spot. Here are 5 signs to help you identify if your afro hair has split ends.
1. Your ends feel and appear thin
2. Your ends are excessively dry and feel brittle
3. Hair snags and knots easily
4. Detangling isn’t as smooth as it is normally and you find your hair is tangling easily
5. Your ends are uneven
How do I get rid of split ends in afro hair?

Now you know how to identify split ends.You might be wondering, how do i get rid of split ends on my natural hair. The simplest answer is to get them trimmed and if your split ends have travelled quite far up the hair shaft then get a cut for a fresh start. If you’re not a fan of getting rid of your split ends in one go – you can gradually trim them over a 3 to 6 month period. Just remember, your hair health is more important than length so the sooner you snip them the better it is for your hair.

It’s best to go to a professional instead of trimming your own hair but just be careful not to go to a scissor-happy stylist who may cut off more than is required. Do your research, watch instagram or tik tok videos to see if the stylist meets your expectations and go from there.

If you prefer to get rid of your own split ends. Watch this step by step tutorial by Healthy Afro Hair.

TIP : Purchase scissors specifically for hair so you don’t create any further damage.

How to prevent split ends?

Unfortunately split ends are inevitable and are likely pop up on your hair strands every couple of months. Here are 6 top ways to stay on top of them and prevent them from appearing on your afro hair.

1. Stay on top of your trims :

Aim to trim your hair every 3 months. You can stretch to 4 months if you prefer but just don’t go past that mark. Read our article on the benefits of trimming your natural hair for more insight.

2. Moisture Moisture Moisture :

We can’t stress enough how important moisture is to keep your hair afro hair hydrated to minimise breakage or split ends. You can utilise moisture in a variety of ways from using hair masks, deep conditioning treatments and moisture intense leave in-conditioners.

Read our post on Best Deep conditioners for Type 4 Hair and Easy Homemade Deep Conditioner recipes if you need some inspiration on what products to try!

3. Protect Ends at Night :

Sleep with a satin or silk scarf to prevent friction on your ends. For that added protection – get a silk pillowcase especially if your bonnet falls off at night.

4. Protect your hair whilst using heat :

Always use a heat protectant when styling with heat and minimise how often you use it. For instance, you don’t want to straighten your hair every day. If you’re rocking a straight silk press, wrap your hair at night and avoid re-pressing your hair. Read our article on Silk Press Tips to help you maintain your straightened hair.

5. Utilise protein treatments :

These treatments strengthen your hair shaft and prevent splits. Be careful not to overload your hair with protein as it can make your hair brittle. If you’re a high porosity natural you can use it every 1 to 2 months AND low porosity naturals every 2 to 3 months.

6. Be careful when dyeing or colouring your hair :

Unfortunately Hair dye contains chemicals that can weaken and damage the hair shaft, leading to splits. Getting your hair dyed by a professional can ensure proper application and minimise damage. Use deep conditioning treatments and leave-in conditioners to keep hair hydrated.

Best split end treatment for black hair

There are a variety of treatments on the market that help keep split ends at bay. These are temporary fixes and should not be used as a replacement to trimming your ends. However, they can be used as an aid to help prevent split ends whilst acting as an extra layer to seal your ends so they don’t fray easily.

Here are 4 split end treatments that work well on afro textured hair.
1. Keratese Nutritive Split end treatment
The treatment is designed to treat and prevent splits by strengthening the hair fibres and sealing the ends. It contains plant based proteins, niacinamide and glycerin. Great for women who have curly, coily or damaged hair.
1. Amika Instant Repair Cream
A lightweights 2 in 1 cream which treats split ends and repairs damaged hair. The product claims to seal 96% of split ends due to its bond curing technology. It’s a versatile product which can be used as a styling cream or a leave in treatment
1. Moroccan Oil Mending Fusion
This treatment is great for anyone looking to repair, prevent and strengthen their split ends. It’s infused with argan oil and enriched with a blend of vitamins and quinoa proteins making it a natural alternative.
1. Deva Curl Re-Coiling split end treatment
Designed specifically for curly hair – this product repairs split ends. It uses an advanced technology to repair existing damage and prevent future damage by re-linking the broken bonds. It’s silicone and paraben free, created with the support of dermatologists.

FAQ’s re; Split Ends

1: Why does my afro hair keep breaking and How to stop afro hair from breaking?

Your afro hair is breaking due to something in your hair routine. There are many factors that contribute to breakage such as lack of moisture, detangling on dry hair, not using the right products, tight hairstyles, diet and not using the right styling tools. As 4A, 4B and 4C hair strands are quite fine in nature. There are various elements you’ll need to incorporate into your natural hair routine to keep your hair healthy and eliminate breakage. Aside from staying on top of your trims and keeping split ends at bay. Here are 6 key TIPs you can incorporate into your hair regimen:
- Incorporate moisture retention techniques such as the LOC or LCO method.
- Don’t use products with harsh ingredients – opt for silicone and sulphate free products.
- Incorporate treatments such as deep conditioning and hair masks
- Utilise steam to open your hair cuticles and ensure moisture penetrates through the hair shaft
- Detangle on damp hair and use a product with a great slip
- Be careful with protective styling : Make sure your hair isn’t too tight and create a haircare routine whilst wearing these styles. This should include cleansing your scalp and getting the adequate amount of moisture into the hair strands
Here are some post you might find helpful for protective styling 👍

The truth about braids for hair growth and length retention

Mini Twists : The Ultimate style for retention and hair growth

Can sew-ins contribute to natural hair growth?

How to rock clip in extensions on Type 4 hair?

2: Why does black hair break so easily?

Unfortunately due to the nature of our coil and curl structure, afro type 4 hair has the tendency to break easily. However, bearing that in mind – the main culprit for breakage is dryness, lack of moisture and manipulation from daily styling which is why it’s important to treat your hair with TLC.

If you’re experiencing excessive breakage, a quick fix is to incorporate moisture retention techniques such as the LOC or LCO to increase hydration into your hair strands to help with elasticity whilst strengthening your hair strands.

If your breakage is due to a change in your hair routine i.e. a chemical treatment, excessive heat or bleaching. Then STOP now, the best way to eliminate breakage is to identify the route cause and tackle it straight away.

3: How to tell if afro hair is damaged?

A quick tell-tell sign of damaged afro hair is the change in texture. If your hair feels extremely dry and brittle then it’s an early warning sign your hair is damaged. If not careful, this could lead to breakage – you may need to review the products you’re using to ensure they have moisturising properties such as film-forming humectants to ensure your hair cuticles are actually being nourished.

Another sign of damage is if your curl or coil pattern is straight and doesn’t revert back. Let’s say you had a silk press or recently bleached your hair. Your coil pattern should return back to normal. If it remains straight then you’ve experienced some form of damage within the hair cuticle itself and the only way to get rid of it is by cutting the dead hair.

If you’re experiencing excessive frizz in comparison to normal. Then you probably have some form of damage – afro hair is naturally frizzy but if your frizz is out of control then this is a sign your cuticles are raised and having difficulty retaining moisture.

4: Can damaged afro hair be repaired?

With the right level of TLC, you can nurse your damaged afro back to health. You’ll need to utilise treatments such as moisture rich deep conditioning masks and/or protein treatments depending on the level of damage. If your ends are completely damaged – you’ll need to start with a fresh cut to give you the best possible chance of reviving your hair health.

You’ll need to cut back on the things that led to the damage in the first place such as using excessive heat, bleaching hair, tight hairstyles etc.

If you’re on the hunt for what treatments to use, read the following articles:

8 Deep Conditioning Treatments for 4A, 4B & 4C Hair

Easy Homemade Deep Conditioners To Try for Natural Hair

5: Does split ends stop hair growth?

Split ends does not stop the rate of growth from your scalp but can hinder your length retention goals. Depending on how high the split ends have travelled up the hair shaft – your hair will start breaking. Making it appear like your hair is not growing. But instead it’s breaking off at a faster rate than it’s actually growing.

FINAL THOUGHTS

Dealing with split ends on afro hair can be challenging, but with the right knowledge and care, you can maintain healthy, vibrant hair. This guide has covered how to identify split ends, methods to treat them, and preventive measures to keep your hair in top condition. Remember:
- Identify Split Ends: Look for signs like thin, dry, brittle ends and increased tangling.
- Treat Split Ends: Trim them regularly, preferably with the help of a professional, and consider using targeted split end treatments.
- Prevent Split Ends: Keep your hair moisturised, protect it from heat and friction, and handle it gently.
Split ends are a natural part of hair wear and tear, but with these tips, you can minimise their impact and keep your afro hair healthy and strong. If you notice an increase in split ends and breakage after changing your hair care routine, stop using the new product or method immediately and switch to one that supports your hair’s health.

We hope you found this guide helpful and informative. For more tips and product recommendations, check out our related articles on deep conditioning treatments, protective styling, and more.
May 28, 2024
How to Dry Natural Hair Properly
Natural hair is most fragile when wet so you might be wondering – “what’s the best way to dry my natural hair without causing damage?”. Blow drying and air drying are the most popular techniques but both have their pros and cons. Plus, what might work best for one naturalista might not be right for you.

So what’s the best technique? We’ll be uncovering the best methods to dry your natural hair effectively. Plus pros and cons of each method whilst giving you some tips and tricks to ensure you’re armed with the right information.

What is the best way to dry natural hair?

The way you choose to dry your natural hair is a personal choice. You might find air drying easier or you might prefer blow drying. We’re conscious that everyone’s lifestyle is different and you’ll have your own preference. So here are some key tips to follow to make sure you’re not being too rough and abrasive with your hair strands.

1. Use a microfiber towel :

If you’re using a cotton towel to dry your hair then stop now! The materials used to create the towels are coarse and harsh on hair strands, especially type 4 hair which is already fine and fragile. If not careful, it could lead to damage by making split ends worse eventually leading to breakage.

Instead opt for a microfiber towel which is softer in texture and super absorbent. Some of the benefits of microfiber towels include reduction in frizz, cutting down your drying time and helping reduce breakage. Some naturals use a t-shirt which is lightweight and softer as an alternative.

2. Wrap and squeeze :

Type 4 hair is most fragile when wet so you need to take extra care when drying. Don’t rub the towel against your hair strands as it’ll cause tension on your stands and could lead to breakage. Instead wrap the towel round your hair and squeeze gently until dry. Turban microfibre towels make this process easy to do and will help you resist rubbing the towel against your hair.

3. Stick to a method that works best for you :

Whether you prefer air drying or blow drying. You know what works best for your coils and curls. So stick to what your hair likes. You’re the only one who’ll know how your hair feels after doing both methods. You can also switch between the two if you like the best of both worlds.

4. Apply leave in conditioner in sections :

This helps to ensure the product is fully distributed across all your hair strands helping your hair stay hydrated whilst minimizing frizz.

Blow Drying Natural Hair

Blow drying is a long standing technique for drying natural hair. You were probably used to getting your hair blow dried as a child as air drying wasn’t really a thing back in the day. When the natural hair movement began in the 2000s, blow drying was deemed as negative due to its close ties with heat damage.

As the years have gone by, there’s been more insight into blow drying and it’s not actually bad for your hair. Have you ever wondered why hair care specialists have always and still use heat tools to style your hair? Well, that’s because there are some benefits to using heat to maintain your natural hair. It took me a while to understand that heat is not the enemy! EXCESSIVE use of HEAT is the ENEMY.

With blow drying – it’s all about the technique you follow to ensure you don’t experience damage. So you shouldn’t eliminate it from your hair care routine completely.

Image Source : Unsplash (TYMO beauty)

Benefits of Blow Drying Natural Hair

Aside from getting an arm workout, here are the benefits of blow drying your Type 4 coils
1. Helps prevent single strand knots and minimizes tangles as your hair won’t be coiling around itself whilst drying
2. Prevents breakage from styling : Your hair is weakest when wet so blow drying makes styling easier and minimizes breakage.
3. Stretching out your hair reduces the amount of time spent detangling hair in its shrunken state.
4. Minimizes tension on your hair cuticles. When your hair is wet for long periods of the time, the cuticle expands making your hair more fragile.
Tips for Blow drying

Here are our top tips for using heat to blow drying your hair
1. Use the Tension Method: This is the gentlest method for blow drying type 4 hair strands. Rather than using a comb attachment. Separate your hair into 4 to 6 sections. Hold or stretch each section of your hair and run the hair dryer up and down on a cooler setting until dry. Once done, you can follow up with a comb on a higher setting to get your coils straighter. Watch the video below for a step by step guide.
2. Adjust your heat settings : Dry hair on a low to medium setting until 80% dry and then follow up with a higher setting until your hair is completely dry

3. Finish with a cool blast to smooth down your cuticles and create shine whilst locking in moisture.

4. Work in sections of 4 – 6 to prevent tangles and help ensure your hair is thoroughly dry. This will also help you be gentle with your hair strands.

5. Use a heat protectant or serum to prevent heat damage

6. Invest in a good quality hair dryer

Air Drying Natural hair

Air Drying has become extremely popular over the last decade. It’s many naturals preferred option for drying their natural hair and also classed as the healthier option. The main reason for this is due to the eradication of heat from the drying process. Although air drying is great it also has its cons. Let’s talk about why!
1. Hair Shaft Swells – The hair shaft swells when it gets into contact with water making already fine Type 4 hair weaker when wet. When water is left on the cortex of your hair for long periods of time. It can lead to breakage due to the pressure of holding on to excessive moisture for hours.
2. Increase of Frizz – Your hair is likely to frizz more when air drying in comparison to a smooth finish from a blow dry. Now there are products to eradicate this like curl creams and anti frizz serums but you’ll have to test out a couple of products first to see what works.
3. Scalp Bacteria and Mold – Due to the number of hours it takes for your hair to be completely dry. The wetness creates an environment for bacteria and mold to grow on your scalp. This is the case if you air dry regularly, especially overnight. If you notice some scalp irritation – then it’s worth looking into how air drying has contributed to that.
4. Increase of single strand knots – when Type 4 hair dries in its loose state – the curls and coils naturally shrink eventually curling over itself causing knots.
Image Source : Pexels (Sora Shimazaki)

Although, we’ve focussed on the cons. Air drying isn’t all bad – it’s just important to be aware of the limitations to help you properly care for your hair. If you’ve noticed some breakage or constant knots then it might be worth considering another drying option OR limit the amount of times you air dry your hair.

Tips for Air Drying
- Use a microfiber towel to squeeze excess water from your hair
- Do not apply a leave in or other styling products on soaking wet hair.
- Don’t overload your hair with products. The more product you use, the longer it’ll take for your hair to dry. Use moderate sizes to limit this!
- Split your hair in 4 to 6 sections to make it easier to dry in a stretched state. Feel free to twist or braid each section depending on your preference..
- Be careful when air drying overnight : Due to your hair being damp with minimal airflow this could lead to moldy environments creating a breeding ground for bacteria on your scalp. If you prefer air drying overnight – ensure your hair is at least 50% dry to limit this.
Is it better to blow dry or air dry natural hair?

If you’re stuck on what technique or to use to dry your hair then it’s worth taking a step back and focus on your hair porosity. Knowing your hair porosity will help you figure out how to better care for your hair and will support you in using the right techniques for your hair to dry.
- High Porosity Naturals – Air drying will probably work best due to how quickly your hair strands absorb water. Be mindful of frizz as high porosity is prone to frizz and ensure you’re using a moisturizing leave-in to help smooth your strands.
- Low Porosity Naturals – Blow drying on a low to medium setting will probably work best due to how long it takes for water to absorb through the hair strands. Especially if you have fine hair. Excess water will sit on the strands weighing it down eventually causing damage.
Both techniques have their limitations so it’s important to test them out on your hair to see what has better results. You can also use a combination of the two if you’re worried about damage. For instance, in warmer temperatures and climates like summer you can opt for air drying and in colder months where it’s likely to take longer for your hair to dry you can opt for blow drying.

What is the least damaging way of drying natural hair?

There are pros and cons to both methods, it’s all about the technique you use and TLC you apply to the drying process.

A study conducted on hair shaft damage from heat and drying time concluded that “using a hair dryer caused more surface damage than natural drying, the results suggested that using a hair dryer at a distance of 15 cm with continuous motion causes less damage than drying hair naturally”¹

The study showed that air drying produced a protected hair surface in comparison to blow drying. However, the inner layers of the hair shaft were damaged due to the length of time it took for the hair to completely dry naturally. The pressure of excess water in the hair shaft caused swelling leading to breakage and damage. Learn more about the study here.

If you’re already suffering from some form of damage i.e. heat or color then air drying is the least damaging way to dry your hair whilst nursing it back to health.If you notice your constantly getting single strand knots or your is weaker then blow drying is the least damaging way. Both methods are effective – it’s just about understanding what works best for your hair so you’ll need to pay more attention to how your hair reacts/feels after trying both to decide on what to choose.

Image Source : Pexels (Shari Sirotnak)

Does drying your hair with a towel damage hair?

Using a cotton towel can cause damage to your natural hair because the materials are harsh and coarse on your hair strands. Remember, your natural hair is most fragile when wet so you want to limit the use of anything that’ll be abrasive on your hair strands. If you’re constantly using towels then this could lead to breakage.

My Personal Experience : Blow Drying vs Air Drying

For instance, I used to air dry my hair all the time thinking it was healthier but recently went back to blow drying. My hair stylist noticed I had an increased number of single strand knots which was affecting my length retention goals. She suggested I blow dry every wash day over 3 months until my next trim to see if I noticed a difference and I did. Straight away I noticed I was losing less hair when styling my hair after blow drying compared to air drying. I also experience less single strand knots – I used to dry my hair in twists but it would still shrink up coiling against each other causing knots. As I’m a low porosity natural – I also noticed – I was able to get the moisture into my strands quicker as it wasn’t just sitting on my hair strands for hours at a time.

I share my experience just to show the importance of testing out the two methods to figure out what will work best for you.

FINAL THOUGHTS

You should now feel empowered with a range of effective techniques for drying your hair! We’ve delved into the debate of blow drying versus air drying, equipping you with insights to make the perfect choice. And remember, you can always use both methods for ultimate flexibility. Just stay mindful of the proper techniques to safeguard your hair’s health.

We’re curious: What’s your go-to hair drying method? Share with us in the comment section – we’re all ears!
1. Lee Y, Kim YD, Hyun HJ, Pi LQ, Jin X, Lee WS. Hair shaft damage from heat and drying time of hair dryer. Ann Dermatol. 2011 Nov;23(4):455-62. doi: 10.5021/ad.2011.23.4.455. Epub 2011 Nov 3. PMID: 22148012; PMCID: PMC3229938. ↩︎
May 7, 2024
How to moisturize your 4C hair effectively?
Getting the adequate amount of moisture into 4C hair can be challenging for many Naturals. Have you ever moisturized your hair and found it to still be dry and brittle? OR Do you struggle to find the right products to keep your hair hydrated? Well, you’re not alone! This is a problem many naturals face. As much as we love 4C hair, the extremely tight coil pattern makes it difficult for moisture to penetrate through leading to dryness and breakage.

We’ll be covering the importance of moisture for 4C hair and various techniques you should use to make sure your hair is fully hydrated at all times. Plus some product recommendations to help make moisturising easier to manage and not feel like a chore! If you’re struggling with moisture retention or want to combat dryness. Keep reading to learn more…

Importance of keeping 4C hair Hydrated

Moisture, moisture, moisture! We constantly bang on about it in the natural hair community. So you might be wondering – Why is moisture so important for 4C hair? There are a couple of factors that come to play here;
1. 4C hair is unique and has a beautiful Z shape coil pattern. As the strands are tightly packed together, making it difficult for moisture to be distributed through the length of the hair
2. It’s the most fragile of all the hair types making it prone to breakage and excessive shedding
3. It has a difficult time holding onto to moisture leading to breakage
But don’t be alarmed! There are multiple ways to combat dryness and give your hair the right amount of hydration it needs. With a little bit of TLC, using the right products and techniques. You’ll have fully moisturized 4C hair in no time and never have to deal with dry, brittle hair again.

8 Best ways to keep 4C hair moisturized for longer

Here are 8 techniques to try to get the right level of moisture into your 4C hair strands and keep your hair fully hydrated.

1. Spritz your hair regularly :

If you don’t have a spray bottle then now’s the time to invest in one. Spritzing your hair with a moisturizing mix is a quick fix for dry 4c hair seeking moisture. Using water alone will not keep your hair hydrated enough as water evaporates easily. You’ll need to mix it with a leave in-conditioner to help the strands stay moisturised. The added product works as an emollient which is a protective barrier that helps soften the hair and lock the moisture into your hair strands.

How to create moisturzing spritz for 4C Hair?
- Step 1 – Pour your favourite leave in conditioner into the spray bottle
- Step 2 – Add water into the bottle
- Step 3 – Give it a good shake and voila your mixture is ready!
- Bonus – add a couple drops of moisturizing oils into the mix for added hydration. Try avocado, olive or coconut oil.
2. Use the right moisturiser

This is where you’ll need to do a bit of homework. Unfortunately, not all products marketed to the coily and curly hair market contain the right ingredients. In fact some contain harmful ingredients so it’s important to get acquainted with ingredients that have a positive impact on your hair so you know which ones to use. This is a really important step of giving your 4C hair the moisture it craves for.

Use products with film-forming humectants which help retain water in your hair. These humectants have moisturising ingredients that create a clear, flexible film over your strands to help resist dehydration. Here are some examples of these humectants :
- Marshmallow Root
- Flaxseed Gel
- Aloe Vera
- Slippery Elm
- Pathenol
- Hydroxyproplytrimonium Honey
- Nettle Leaf tea or Nettle Extract
Don’t worry we’ve done some of the work for you. Check out our product recommendations below which contain some of these film-forming humectants.

3. Use the LOC Method

I’m sure you’ve heard this term many times. The LOC method is a moisture retention technique used to keep hair hydrated for long periods of time and is perfect for 4C naturals who struggle to get moisture into their strands. LOC stands for liquid first, oil second and cream last. The oil and cream help seal the moisture into your hair shaft to stop it from evaporating quickly.

If you’re a low porosity natural then you’ll want to use the LCO method. It’s pretty much the same thing but the second and third step swap places. Read our article on LOC VS LCO – Which method should you choose? to figure out what method to use.

4.Use Sulfate/Sulphate free shampoos

Sulfates/Sulphates are cleansing agents that strip your hair and scalp from its natural oils. They’re commonly found in shampoos and can have a detrimental effect on why your hair might be extremely dry. They’re great for removing product build up and may be found in clarifying shampoos but shouldn’t be used regularly. The regular use of sulfates/sulphates will strip 4C hair of the moisture it requires eventually leading to dry, brittle hair.

Use a moisturizing shampoo during your regular wash day routine and if you need to remove build up then try a clarifying shampoo that doesn’t contain sulfate/sulphates. The ingredient to keep an eye out for in shampoos is sodium lauryl sulfate – stay clear of any product that contains this.

5. Don’t skip deep conditioning treatments on Wash Day

Yes – wash days can be a long process from time to time but you can’t afford to skip your deep conditioning treatment if you have dry hair. Deep conditioning has many benefits for 4C hair but most importantly – it re-adds moisture that’s been lost. It helps your hair retain moisture and penetrates right through into your hair shafts. Making your hair stronger and preventing any unnecessary breakage.

Read our Deep Conditioning Guide for Type 4 Hair for more information and for some product recommendations. If you enjoy experimenting with DIY recipes then check out our article on easy homemade deep conditioners to try.

If you deep condition your hair regularly, you’ll start to see improvements in your hair’s health and its ability to retain moisture.

6. Invest in a Steamer

Using a steamer is a great way to get heat into your hair and open up your cuticles. Steamers can be quite costly depending on the product you purchase but you can also use a heated or steam cap and get the same results. Using steam is a quick and effective hack to help your 4C hair absorb moisture. Use steam when you’re deep conditioning or whenever your hair feels dry.

7. Stay hydrated

This is a simple tip! One of the most effective ways to retain moisture is to stay hydrated by drinking your recommended daily water intake. Anything from 1.5 to 3 litres a day. Water helps hydrate your hair and follicles with the essential minerals it needs to thrive. Plus, you’ll get the added benefits in your overall health, nails and skin.

8. Keep up with your vitamins

Do you know vitamins contribute to your hair’s hydration? It’s something we recently learned and it’s really important to have the right level of nutrients for your skin, hair and scalp. The vitamin deficiencies that mainly affect your hair are Iron and Vitamin D. If you have low levels of iron and vitamin D, your hair texture can change leaving it feeling dry and brittle causing breakage. These vitamins contribute heavily to the hair growth cycle process and can be the difference between having healthy nourished hair strands or dry limp hair.

So if you’re anaemic it’s worth making sure you amp up your vitamin intake in this area. If you’re a 4C natural who’s followed multiple techniques and your hair stills feels dry then schedule a blood test and speak to your doctor about the results. If you’re deficient in iron – you’ll have low ferritin levels and if you score below 25 on the 25-hydroxy vitamin D then you have Vitamin D deficiency.

How often should you moisturize 4C hair

On wash days, use the LOC or LCO method to moisturize your hair. Apply your leave in conditioner, then follow up with an oil and butter to seal in the moisture. Using this technique will help 4C hair stay moisturized for up to 7 days. However, depending on the level of dryness you’re experiencing and trying to combat. You might need to moisturize your hair more frequently. One way you can do this is spritzing your hair with a leave-in mixture and seal with a lightweight oil.

One thing to bear in mind is the weather and climate of where you live will affect how often you moisturize your hair. For example, in the winter months – the weather can be harsher and affect your hydration levels. So you’ll need to moisturize your hair more regularly during those periods.

Observe how your hair reacts in different seasons and adjust your moisturizing regimen accordingly. You’ll probably end up moisturizing your hair more during colder and drier months.

6 Moisturizing Products to Try for Type 4 Hair

1. Camille Rose Naturals Curl Moisture Milk

Key Ingredients :
- RICE MILK: Offers potent vitamins A, D, and B12 to promote healthy hair growth.
- MACADAMIA SEED OIL : Seals hair strands to prevent breakage and thinning.
- SLIPPERY ELM BARK : Softens and smooths the hair shaft for detangling benefits.
2. Curlsmith Curl Conditioning oil-in-cream

Key Ingredients :
- CARROT : Source of vitamins A, E and beta-carotene, which offer much needed moisture to dry scalp and hair
- COCONUT: Helps seal the hair and reduces protein loss, keeping the hair healthier and more resistant against breakage
- RESURRECTION FLOWER : Desert plant that survives up to 3 years without water, known for its moisture-retention properties
3. Design Essentials Almond and Avocado Leave in Conditioner

Key Ingredients :
- ALMOND & AVOCADO provide intense moisture and hydration
- SHEA BUTTER restores moisture and improves hair health for the inside out
- COCONUT MILK replenishes moisture and aids as a natural detangler
4. As I Am Double Butter Cream

Key Ingredients :
- PRO VITAMIN B5 : Known as Panthenol, helps repair split ends and strengthen hair
- SHEA BUTTER : Infused with vitamins that restore nourishment to dry and damaged hair
- COCOA BUTTER : Repairs dry, damaged hair and prevents further damage by adding lubrication to the strands
5.TGIN Butter Cream Daily Moisturizer
- SHEA BUTTER: Infused with vitamins that restore nourishment to dry and damaged hair
- COCOA BUTTER : repairs dry, damaged hair and prevents further damage by adding lubrication to the strands
- VITAMIN E: Rich in vitamins and antioxidant properties to prevent breakage and improve the overall strength of your hair.
6. Kinky Curly Knot Today Leave In Conditioner
- MANGO : Rich in vitamin A and essential fatty acids which are essential for healthy hair growth. These fatty acids help to moisturise the scalp and hair, keeping them nourished.
- SLIPPERY ELM : Prevents water loss, injects moisture into hair and scalp.
- MARSHMALLOW ROOT : Adds hydration and moisture to your hair whilst enhancing smoothness and shine
FAQ’s

1: How do I keep my 4C hair moist?

To keep your 4C hair moist and hydrated for up to 7 days. Incorporate the following steps into your hair routine:
- Deep condition with a moisturizing treatment using heat & steam at least twice a month
- Use the LOC or LCO method to lock moisture into your hair strands
- Spritz your hair with a spray bottle every 3 to 4 days to rehydrate your hair
- Sleep with a silk scarf or bonnet to stop your hair from drying out
- Use products which have film forming humectants
Following these steps will minimise your hair from drying out and help you retain moisture in your 4C hair strands for longer. If you don’t already have a hair regimen then create one to help stay consistent with all the steps.

2: Why is my 4c hair so dry and brittle?

Many factors can contribute to dry hair so you need to reflect on what you’ve been doing to understand how to combat it. For example, Are you using heat on your hair regularly? Or do you bleach/dye your hair too often?

Here are the main factors which contribute to dry hair;
- Not using the right moisture retention techniques
- Using products with harsh chemicals like sulfates/sulphates which dry out hair
- Excessive use of heat
- Constant bleaching and dyeing hair
- Nutritional Deficiencies
3: Is water alone enough to moisturize 4C Hair?

No, water alone cannot moisturize your hair. Water is great for 4C hair as it makes your hair easier to work with. But should always be used with in an emollient if you want to hydrate your hair strands. Water evaporates easily but the emollient works to lock in moisture. Always use a leave in conditioner and/or moisturizing cream in addition to water.

4: Should I oil my 4C hair daily?

We wouldn’t recommend oiling your 4C hair daily. Oils act as a sealant to lock in moisture and if you’re constantly using oils. You’ll end up locking out the moisture your hair needs. Always use oils as a last step to lock in moisture from your moisturizing products.

5: Is it ok/better to air dry 4C hair?

It’s absolutely fine to air dry 4C hair but make sure to dry it in a stretched state to minimise any tangling when it’s time to style your hair. Once you’ve finished washing your hair and applying your products. Separate your hair into 4 – 6 sections and twist or braid your hair while it dries.

Blow drying is also an effective way of drying your hair. If you’re worried about using heat regularly then blow dry on a low setting. Follow up on a high setting when your hair is roughly 80% dry. The method you choose really depends on your preference and your hair styling options for the week. If you’re only using heat on wash days then you won’t experience heat damage.

FINAL THOUGHTS

We hope you’ve learnt some effective techniques to keep your 4C hair moisturized. Incorporating some or all the techniques we mentioned will help you combat dry, brittle hair. You’ll start to notice a difference after a month. It’ll be a bit of trial and error in the beginning whilst figuring out what works for you but stick to it and you’ll see results.

What techniques do you find best for moisturizing your 4C Natural Hair? And What are your favourite products?

Leave a comment and help a fellow Naturalista out.
February 15, 2024
What you need to know about Texture Release Treatments
Texture releases are becoming increasingly popular and being marketed to 3A – 4C naturals. The product aims to straighten your hair without damaging your coils/curls using heat, amino acids and conditioning agents. It straightens your natural hair without damaging your curls and coils but instead elongating them. With more and more naturals considering this as a solution for managing their natural hair. We thought it’s worthwhile discussing the pros, cons and things to consider before taking the plunge to get a texture release treatment.

So What is a Texture Release?

“Texture release is a heat activated smoothing system which uses amino acids and conditioning agents to penetrate deep into the hair fibres to straighten your hair. The product is specifically formulated for naturally curly hair and aims to change the texture of your hair strands whilst increasing the manageability of your hair.” ¹

It’s similar to a relaxer to a certain degree because you’re altering your coil and curl pattern. The biggest difference is the chemicals in a texture release are significantly milder so you don’t experience burns, tingling or irritation. However, it’s important to note that although texture releases are marketed as non-damaging and a more natural alternative. The product still contains chemicals which can have an impact on your natural hair in the long term.

5 questions to ask yourself before getting a texture release

1. Do I want to alter my curl pattern?

Texture releases can alter your curl pattern by elongating them. So let’s say you’re a 4C natural, you could end up with a 4A or 4B curl pattern depending on how often and regularly you do a texture release. However there will be cases where you’ll end up with completely straight hair which doesn’t revert back so it’s important to bear that in mind. Especially if your hair is thin and fragile.

2. Do I like the versatility of my natural hair?

Although texture releases makes your hair more manageable and easier to style. You can get the same effect with a silk press and not have the problem of worrying if your hair will revert back. If you like the versatility of rocking your coils /curls and then switching it up for a straighter style then texture releases may not be the option for you. Try silk presses, blow out and roller sets instead.

3. Can I keep up with the maintenance treatments?

Texture releases last 8 to 12 weeks, in some cases you can stretch it slightly longer. You need to keep up with maintenance treatments which can be costly in the long run. You shouldn’t do a texture release at home by yourself and always go to a professional. So check out the costs and have a think about if it’s something you can actually keep up. Prices vary but in the US the average cost is around $275 dollars and £175 in the UK. You’ll also have to buy certain haircare products to maintain the style so bear that in mind when making decisions on the upkeep of the treatment.

4. Why did I stop relaxing my hair?

This is a key question to ask yourself and reflect on. Be honest with yourself about why you’re doing this! There are various reasons why people go Natural. It could be because of chemicals, wanting to embrace their natural hair, pain and discomfort of relaxers OR spending hours in the salon. The list goes on and everyone’s reason is different. If your key reason is to stay away from chemicals then texture releases might not be the option for you.

5. Am I willing to use chemicals on my hair and scalp?

Texture releases definitely aren’t in the same category as relaxers but it’s important to know you’ll be using some form of chemicals on your hair and scalp. Although the chemicals in a texture release aren’t as harsh as Sodium Hydroxide OR Lithium, Potassium, Calcium and Guanidine hydroxide. It’s still a chemical treatment which breaks down the bonds in your hair fibres and alters your curl pattern. The main ingredients in a texture release are “Glyoxylol Carbocysteine, Glyoxylol Keratin Amino Acids, and patent-pending Diamine.” ²

“Glyoxylic acid has emerged as a safe alternative to formol (formaldehyde) use as a hair straightener/relaxer. However, the possible damage to the hair fibre after its application is low known and/or published in the literature ³…The mechanism of action of glyoxylic acid does not appear to be based on breaking and rearrangement of disulfide bridges, but altered them and influenced the hair strength ⁴”
Intl Journal of Trichology & Intl Journal of Cosmetic Science

The study mentions more research needs to be carried out to understand the impact of the chemicals on your hair in the the long term. So decide if it’s a risk you’re willing to take – the biggest impact it’ll have on your hair is on its strength.

What are the benefits of texture release?
- Offers versatility with straighter hairstyles
- Last’s longer than a silk press
- Elongates your curls
- Reduces shrinkage
- Makes coarse and thick hair easier to maintain
- Great for those who are transitioning to natural
What are the cons of texture release?
- Must be done by a professional
- Maintenance can be costly over time
- Exposing your hair to heat and chemicals
- Risk of coils and curls not reverting back
FAQ’s

1: Does hair go back to normal after texture release?

Yes and No! Purley because you could have a slightly different experience to a fellow Naturalista. Lets delve into this into a bit more detail…

YES – The treatment washes out after several washes resulting in your hair reverting back to normal. Your coils and curls will not be exactly the same as pre-texture release but more elongated. This usually happens around the 3 month mark. Using a clarifying shampoo will ensure the treatment is completely removed from the hair.

NO – Many naturals have complained their coils and curls have remained completely straight despite washing out the treatment. Leading them to do a mini big chop and growing out their hair again due to damage. If your hair is thin and fragile then you risk your coils not reverting back.

To minimise damage to your coil and curl pattern, always go to a professional and read reviews beforehand. Explain any concerns you may have re; your hair reverting back and they’ll be able to advise you on products to use and how to maintain it.

2: Is texture release damaging?

As texture releases wash out over a period of time, your hair should revert back to normal. The treatment is designed not to cause any damage but temporarily alter your curl pattern. However, depending on your hair health, thickness, strength etc – you could end up with some damage. The bonds used in the product breaks down your curls which could affect the overall strength of your hair. If you currently have heat damage or recently dyed/bleached your hair then it’s recommended to wait a couple of months before getting the treatment.

3: Is texture release better than a relaxer?

Yes – It is much better. The chemicals used are significantly milder and not as harsh as chemicals found in relaxers. Texture releases mimic a texturizer to a certain degree but the benefit of the treatment is the product can be washed out after several washes. Some naturals who are transitioning might opt for a texture release to manage their 2 textures.

4: What chemicals are in a texture release?

The main ingredients in texture release are Glyoxylol Carbocysteine, Glyoxylol Keratin Amino Acids, and patent-pending Diamine. Glyoxylol Carbocysteine has a combination of glycoxylic acid, cysteine and acetic acid. Although Glycoxylic acid is classed as a safer form of formaldehyde. It may have an impact on your hair strength because of the curl altering process. As we mentioned earlier, there is limited research on the long term impact it can have on your hair and scalp but definitely deemed safer.

5: How to loosen your curl pattern without chemicals?

Depending on how you wear your hair on a daily basis. There are a couple ways you can elongate your curls specifically using stretching and banding techniques. It really depends on the style you’re trying to achieve. Watch the video below to understand how the techniques work.

Practise always makes perfect, so be patient with yourself and feel free to try other methods too.

FINAL THOUGHTS

When considering getting a texture release, it’s important to do what’s right for you and works for your hair care maintenance needs. Although this is a chemical enhancing treatment, it’s very mild in comparison to relaxers. Your curl pattern will be altered and elongated so weigh up the pros and cons before getting a texture release. Use the 5 questions to help you decide if this is something you should do or not do. At the end of the day, everyones hair and lifestyle is different so you have to make a decision that’ll add value to you as opposed to just following a trend.

We hope you found this article insightful and feel free to ask questions in the comment section. Although, were not experts we’ll be able to steer you in the right direction or share links that might help with your decision making process.

What to read next about straightening Natural Hair: 10 Silk Press Maintenance Tips

REFERENCES
1. Avlon – Texture Release ↩︎
2. Respect – Science of Texture Release ↩︎
3. Velasco, Maria Valéria Robles et al. “Impact of Acid (“Progressive Brush”) and Alkaline Straightening on the Hair Fiber: Differential Effects on the Cuticle and Cortex Properties.” International journal of trichology vol. 14,6 (2022): 197-203. doi:10.4103/ijt.ijt_158_20 ↩︎
4. Boga, Carla & Taddei, Paola & Micheletti, Gabriele & Ascari, Federico & Ballarin, Barbara & Morigi, Massimo & Galli, Sylvestre. (2014). Formaldehyde replacement with glyoxylic acid in semipermanent hair straightening: A new and multidisciplinary investigation. International Journal of Cosmetic Science. 36. 10.1111/ics.12148. ↩︎
February 4, 2024
What is Type 4 Hair? Everything you need to know
Do you struggle to understand your hair type and texture? Sometimes it’s hard to know if you’re a 4A, 4B or 4C natural. Especially if you don’t have an understanding of the different coil textures and patterns. Many Type 4 Naturalistas assume they have 4C hair but instead have 4A or 4B hair. Tbh – It’s easy to be confused as many people refer to the hair type as afro coily or afro kinky. So why is it important to know your hair type? It helps you to care for your hair properly and supports you with identifying what products to incorporate into your hair regimen. It’s definitely possible to have multiple hair textures – for instance – a mix of 4A & 4B OR a mix of 4B & 4C but it’s likely one type will be more prominent over the other.

If you don’t know the difference between 4A, 4B or 4C hair OR then read this article to get more insight. You’ll learn how to differentiate the Type 4 hair textures and tips on how to properly care for your hair. We also spend time running through common questions Type 4 Naturalista’s ask. Keep reading to learn more!

What is Type 4 Hair

Type 4 hair is typically referred to as afro, coily or kinky hair. It’s the most unique of all the hair types because of its the coil pattern and shape. What makes Type 4 hair unique is the versatility it offers. It has the ability to be straight, curl/coil and shrink. The texture offers a variety of styling options in comparison to Type 2 and 3 hair. It’s the most fragile of all the hair types and has fine strands which makes caring for it slightly difficult if you’re not using the right techniques, tools and products.

Here are some characteristics of Type 4 hair;
- S or Z shaped coil pattern
- Shrinks up to 70% of its length
- Prone to breakage
- Tends to be dry and be frizzy
- Hair strands densely packed together
- Tangles easily
How do I know if I have 4A, 4B or 4C Hair?

Let’s delve into 3 textures that form this hair type in more detail…

4A HAIR

4A hair has a distinct “S” shaped coil pattern. The coils are springy and similar to the size of a crochet needle. The coils are densely packed together but the coil pattern is very visible. It shrinks up to 60% of the hairs length and is the loosest of all the Type 4 hair types. 4A hair has great moisture retention levels but is still prone to dryness and breakage.

4B HAIR

4B hair is easily confused with 4C hair due to both being “Z” shaped. The coil pattern is tight but not as tight as 4C hair. You can usually see the Z shape when your hair is wet. This hair type is prone to a lot of shrinkage, usually up to 70% of the length. Keeping the hair hydrated is key with this hair type. It takes a little longer for moisture to travel through the hair strands due the coil shape.

4C HAIR

4C hair has an extremely tight “Z” coil pattern. It’s not as loose as 4B even though the shape is very similar. 4C hair is the most fragile of all the Type 4 hair types so detangling with TLC is key to minimise any breakage. Work in sections and use tools like a wide tooth comb to minimise any tugging and pulling of the hair. Similar to 4B hair, 4C hair also experiences a significant amount of shrinkage (up to 80% for some naturals). Hydration is also key for this type, it’s important to use a moisture retention technique to lock it in.

How often should 4A, 4B or 4C hair be washed?

The rule of thumb is to wash your hair every 2 weeks. But depending on your lifestyle, this could be more often or less. We wouldn’t recommend going past the 4 week mark even if you’re wearing protective style. A healthy and clean scalp is important for your hair to thrive.

As Type 4 hair is prone to dryness and breakage, it’s important not to strip the hair of its natural oils when shampooing. Stick to hydrating and moisturising shampoos which minimise the loss of oils and always follow up with a conditioner to replenish your hair with moisture. Always use a with a leave-in conditioner once done to lock in additional moisture and keep your hair hydrated until your next wash day.

It’s also important to use a clarifying shampoo every 4 to 6 weeks to minimise any build up from hair products and daily styling. If you’re not a fan of clarifying shampoos then try a bentonite clay mask.

How can I make my Type 4 hair more manageable?

People have typically opted for relaxers in the past for ease of styling. For some reason, people think type 4 hair isn’t manageable but we’re here to dispel that myth. Whether you’re newly natural, a lazy natural or experienced natural – your hair is manageable. All you need is the right tools and techniques to care for your hair. As part of the process, you’ll need to create a natural hair routine and ensure you’re using products your hair has a liking to.

Here are some key elements to incorporate into your routine to make your type 4 hair easier to work with.

Moisture, Moisture, Moisture

Type 4 hair needs more moisture compared to other hair types. The “S & Z” shape makes it harder for moisture to travel down the hair shaft. Which is why the texture is prone to breakage and dryness. Utilise a moisture retention technique like the LOC or LCO method to keep your hair hydrated for longer. Spritzing your hair with water and leave-in mixture is one way to get moisture into your hair strands in between wash days.

Detangle your hair thoroughly

Type 4 hair has a fine texture and is densely packed together so it’s important to detangle your hair thoroughly to reduce any breakage. Always detangle on damp hair and never dry hair. Use a detangling tool like a wide tooth comb or detangling brush and take your time. Using a product with some slip like a conditioner or detangling lotion will make the process easier. The product helps you glide through your hair smoothly without pulling and tugging on your hair strands..

Some naturals forget to detangle prior to shampooing and do it when they’ve applied conditioner. But you must detangle prior to washing your hair to minimise excess shedding.

Work in sections

Work in sections of 4 to 6 depending on the length of your hair. This will make detangling, styling and washing your hair a smoother process.

Wear styles that don’t need to be re-done daily

Daily styling and over manipulation leads to breakage and loss of hair. Stick to protective styles that keep your hands out of your hair for at least 1 week. Type 4 hair is versatile enough for you to have several styling options. Experiment with buns, twists, braids, cornrow, afro puffs etc. Whatever style you choose, make sure you don’t do the same style back to back to give your hair a break and reduce any tension on your hairline.

Stay on top of trims

Trim your hair every 12 weeks to minimise split ends and single strand knots travelling up the hair shaft. Keeping on top of your trims makes detangling easier, keeps your coils defined and improves the overall health of your hair.

Frequently Asked Questions

1: How do you treat type 4 hair?

Use deep conditioning treatments to replenish your hair. It doesn’t have to be every wash day but aim for at least once a month. Deep conditioners are good for adding moisture back into the hair whilst minimising frizz and dryness. It also helps repair damage and nourish your hair back to health. Read our Deep Conditioning guide for Type 4 Naturals for some product recommendations.

Clay Washes are another treatment that is quite underrated but offers great benefits. It’s not something you should do regularly but a nice treat for your hair especially for low porosity naturals. It draws out impurities from your scalp and deeply clarifies your hair follicles making it easier for water and moisture to be absorbed. They also have healing and regenerative properties, getting rid of dryness and flakiness whilst adding shine back into your hair.

2: How do you hydrate type 4 hair?

The best way to keep your hair hydrated is utilising the LOC or LCO method to moisturise your hair. It keeps moisture locked into your strands for at least a week by sealing with an oil or butter. Read our article on LOC vs LCO method! Which one should you choose?

Wear a silk or satin scarf at night and sleep on a silk pillowcase for that extra protection. Cotton is known for absorbing oils and moisture from hair and skin leading to dryness.

Staying hydrated from the inside is another way to get extra hydration into your hair strands. Aim to drink up to 2 litres per day.

3: How do I stop my type 4 hair from shedding?

Shedding is a normal part of your hair’s life cycle. Women typically shed 50 – 100 days per day so it shouldn’t be something you’re alarmed about. However, excessive shedding is a problem! You’ll know if you have excess shedding from the amount that falls out on wash days or when styling your hair.

Excessive shedding is caused by a variety of factors such as stress, diet, hair care practices etc. As shedding is part of your hair growth cycle – you’ll need to replenish your strands starting from the inside as opposed to just your hair regimen. Here are some things worth incorporating into your regimen.
1. Eat a well balanced diet with lots of protein. Protein strengthens hair strands and will be a good source for replenishing your follicles.
2. Take hair supplements and vitamins known for boosting your hair health.
3. Incorporate scalp massages into your routine. Scalp massages boost the flow of blood into your follicles and help thicken your strands.
4. Increase your water intake – water helps keeps you hydrated and will act as a source of moisture for your strands.
Another thing that could be contributing to shedding is if you’re lacking iron or have a vitamin D deficiency. It’s worth doing a blood test to know exactly what your ferritin and Vitamin D levels are and discuss the results with your doctor to get advice on what supplements to take. Black people tend to have low levels of Vitamin D in western countries due to the lack of sun.

“A vitamin D deficiency affects your hair life cycle and is associated with scarring alopecia”. ¹

4: Why is my type 4 hair breaking?

Type 4 hair is prone to breakage due to the nature and shape of the hair strands. They’re tightly coiled and moisture tends to have a difficult time travelling through the length of the strands. As a result, your hair can become brittle and extremely dry leading to breakage. It’s important to incorporate good hair practices to minimise breakage and keep your hair hydrated at all times.

Here are some things you might be doing that could lead to breakage;
- Over manipulating your hair with daily styling
- Excessive use of heat
- Bleaching hair excessively
- Protective styles that pull on your and are too tight
- Not washing your hair and keeping up with your moisture routine whilst wearing protective styles
Be mindful of these things and adjust your hair regimen accordingly. You’ll notice the word excessive is used when it comes to heat and bleaching. There are many naturals who use heat and dye their hair but have healthy hair. So it’s not a case you can’t do these things but moderation is key!

Final Thoughts

You should now have a thorough understanding of Type 4 hair and be able to identify if you have 4A, 4B or 4C texture. The key to maintaining Type 4 hair lies in your hair regimen and we hope you’ve been able to come away with some tips on how to maintain it.

If you’re new on your journey or struggling to embrace your hair then read our article on 5 ways to embrace your natural hair journey.

Are you a 4A, 4B or 4C Natural? And What’s your no 1 tip for maintaining your Type 4 hair?

Leave a comment below, we’d love to hear from you.

References :
1. Saini K, Mysore V. Role of vitamin D in hair loss: A short review. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2021 Nov;20(11):3407-3414. doi: 10.1111/jocd.14421. Epub 2021 Sep 22. PMID: 34553483. ↩︎
January 25, 2024
Silk Press Tips : 10 Maintenance Tricks You Need To Know
As much as we love silk presses! The hardest part of getting a silk press is the maintenance and getting it to last without reverting and heat damage. Most Naturalistas struggle with their curl pattern reverting once they get in contact with steam, heat or sweat. Especially Type 4 Naturalistas who have a coarser and tighter texture. We’ll be delving into some silk press tips to help you get the most out of the style. Plus run through some FAQ’s to help you care for your coils and curls.

Silk presses are great for switching up your natural kinks, coils and curls for a sleeker and straighter look. It gives you a new look without having to chemically alter your hair strands with relaxers, keratin treatments and texture releases. They’re awesome for when you want to wear straighter hairstyles for special occasions like weddings, events, nights out etc. Once you get a silk press – you feel like a new person. To be honest – with any hairstyle you feel like a new woman! You can go from being Brandy with braids to Nia Long with a pixie cut and Beyonce with a weave. That’s the beauty of natural hair – you have so much versatility with your styling options.

What is a silk press?

A silk press is a technique used to straighten your Type 3 & Type 4 hair texture without using any form of chemicals. The process differs from using just a flat iron due to the technique and products used to give it the soft and silky look without weighing down your natural hair. It’s basically a wash, blow dry and press using lightweight serums and leave ins.

The technique includes blow drying your coils and curls in a stretched straight state to achieve a blowout look. Followed up with a flat iron to help seal in that extra smoothness and silkiness with 1 to 2 passes. If done correctly, you shouldn’t have any heat damage and your hair should revert back to its natural state once you wash it.

How long does a silk press last?

They typically last 2 to 4 weeks depending on how you maintain it. It’s likely your roots will become puffier at the end of the 2nd week due to sweat, moisture and weather. However, the majority of your hair should still remain straight until you fully saturate your hair with water and wash your hair. Some naturals will have slightly longer results if they silk press regularly and have trained their hair.

Source : Nappy Images @reishareynolds

10 Tips & Tricks for making your Silk Press last longer

1. Avoid Moisture

We all know moisture is key for natural hair to grow and thrive but in a silk press environment. Moisture and humidity is the enemy! Once you get in contact with it – your hair will begin to revert and puff up again. Now there will be points of the day it’ll be impossible to stay away from moisture completely. For instance – when you shower in the morning, sweat from working out and humid or rainy weather conditions.

Here are some tips on how you can minimise moisture whilst rocking your silk press:
- Showering
- Wrap your hair tightly in a scarf (in fact 2 for that extra protection), then bonnet and wear a shower cap on top to lock out the steam
- You might want to shower with lukewarm water as opposed to a higher temperature to reduce the steam.
- Washing your face
- Make sure your hair is wrapped or pinned away before washing your face. For extra protection, wear a towel headband along your hairline. This will help soak excess water and stop it from travelling to the rest of your hair
- Working out
- Wear your hair in a ponytail and apply a scarf. Wear a sweatband on your forehead or directly on top of your hairline to soak up the sweat
- DO NOT remove your scarf until your hair is completely dry! This will help your hair dry back in a stretched state as opposed to reverting
2. Prep your Hair – Clarify and Deep Conditioning Treatment

Prepping your hair is a really important step if you want your silk press to last. To get a nice flowy look your hair needs to be washed thoroughly and all product build up should be removed from your hair and scalp. Silk presses won’t last on dirty hair – simple as! So wash your hair with a clarifying shampoo and then follow up with a moisturising shampoo to make sure your scalp is clean.

It’s also important to get as much moisture locked into your hair strands prior to the straightening process. Get a deep conditioning treatment with hydration benefits and use steam to help the product penetrate through your hair shaft. Then follow up with a liquid based leave in conditioner. This helps you lock in as much moisture as possible to keep your hair healthy and not dry whilst wearing the style.

Source : GIPHY @shalitagrant

3. Stay away from water based and heavy products

Water will revert your hair so you want to stay away from any moisturisers that contain liquid. Instead you’ll want to use lightweight oils and serums. Be careful not to be too heavy handed with products. The last thing you’ll want is greasy looking hair. Too much product on your silk press will weigh it down and you’ll no longer have that flowy silky look.

4. Wrap your hair at night

Don’t go to bed without wrapping your hair no matter how tired you are! Trust me, you’ll regret it in the morning. Wrap your hair at night with a silk scarf and then wear a bonnet on top. For extra protection opt for a satin or silk pillowcase in case your scarf wants to go for walkies in the middle of the night! (Bad joke! But you get the gist).

5. Touch up on a low setting

You want to avoid re-adding heat to your hair once your silk press has been done. But may need to touch up your hair depending on how long you plan to wear your silk press for. To avoid any form of heat damage, stick to blow drying your roots on a low setting. We’d avoid re-straightening but if you have to – work in sections and do 1 pass. Your silk press should look as good as brand new with a touch up here and there.

6. Style with flexi rods and pin curls once your roots start frizzing

This is one of our fav tips to get more out of your silk press without having to reapply heat. You can experiment with flexi rods, rollers and pin curls. It won’t be super sleek but it’ll still be straight with a slight bounce to it. This is a great way of styling out puffy roots whilst making the most of your press. You can go a step further by experimenting with different styles. You could do a half up half down style or pin up part of your hair with a claw clip.

Source : Unsplash @eyeforebony

7. Try a Dry Shampoo

If your hair is becoming greasy from oils/serums starting to weigh your hair down. You can use a dry shampoo to remove the grease and stretch your style for another week or 2. It’s important not to be heavy handed with products when wearing a silk press so bear that in mind when styling your hair daily.

8. Use products that fight away humidity

There are various products on the market that help fight away frizz so opt for products that have these properties when choosing, serums, oils and heat protectants. Although these ingredients don’t completely get rid of humidity – it definitely helps keep it at bay making your style last longer.

9. Use wax sticks & edge control

It’s likely you’ll have multiple fly aways after getting a silk press. Instead of re-straightening and trying to get them completely perfect – use a wax stick to keep them in place. Style your edges with edge control and not gel. Gel has liquid based properties and will lead to frizz.

10. Go to a Professional

If you’re unsure of how to do a silk press then go to a professional who specialises in it. Ask for some tips on how to maintain your silk press and get some product recommendations. Talk the stylist through pain points you’ve had in the past and they should be able to offer you a tailored solution that’ll work best for your hair type and lifestyle.

Source : Pexels @rdnestockproject

Product Recommendations

Here are some popular products recommended by Naturalista’s who regularly get a silk press.

1. Chi Silk Infusion

2. BioSilk Silk Therapy

3. Design Essentials Agave & Lavender weightless Thermal Protectant Serum

4. Living Proof Instant De-Frizzer (Unfortunately, the Humidity Shield was discontinued)

5. Color Wow Dreamcoat Spray (This product is designed to keep out humidity. Th extra strength is better suited for Type 4 naturals and must be used on damp hair prior to blow drying)

Frequently Asked Questions

1: How do I keep my silk press from frizzing?

The key is to stay away from moisture and humidity. Wrap your hair whenever you’re at home with a silk or satin scarf to minimise your ends from rubbing on your clothes. Use products with anti frizz properties and you might want to try a hair spray you can lightly mist your hair with prior to heading out. You’ll also want to be mindful of how you style your hair in very humid conditions.

2: How do I make my silk press look fuller?

Add flat curls to your ends or bump your ends with a straightener to help add volume. You can also add some soft rollers at night to give you that 90’s blow out look that is straight but still full of volume. If your hair is really fine – you can add a couple tracks that match your hair texture for more volume. It doesn’t have to be a lot – 2 – 4 tracks will suffice.

3: How damaging is a silk press?

If done correctly, you shouldn’t experience any damage from a silk press. Heat doesn’t damage hair but EXCESSIVE HEAT damages hair! Prior to getting a silk press make sure your hair is in a healthy state and not already damaged. If you have split ends, it’s best to get them snipped to prevent it from travelling further. If your hair is damaged from colour or excessive breakage then it’s best to stay away from silk presses until you nourish your hair back to health.

Once you wash your hair, your natural curls and coils will revert. Just be mindful of how often you get a silk press and not re-adding heat constantly to keep your hair healthy.

4: Can you workout with a silk press?

Yes – you can workout with a silk press but have to be extra careful with your maintenance routine. Here are some steps to follow;
- Step 1 : Put hair in a high ponytail
- Step 2 : Apply a scarf
- Step 3 : Place a sweatband on top to soak up any sweat along your hairline
- Step 4 : DO NOT REMOVE your scarf until your hair is fully dry!
- Step 5 : Once dry – style as normal or wrap your hair
FINAL THOUGHTS

We hope you found our silk press tips helpful. Silk Presses are great but it’s all about the technique and products you use to get your hair in a silky straight state. Make sure to do the prep needed to get enough moisture into your hair strands to keep your hair healthy.

Source: GIPHY @ashtaeproducts

Have you tried any of these TIP’s? Do you have any further suggestions?

We’d love to hear from you. Leave a comment below
January 17, 2024