NaturalistaVibes

Tag: Silk Press

  • What you need to know about Texture Release Treatments

    What you need to know about Texture Release Treatments

    Texture releases are becoming increasingly popular and being marketed to 3A – 4C naturals. The product aims to straighten your hair without damaging your coils/curls using heat, amino acids and conditioning agents. It straightens your natural hair without damaging your curls and coils but instead elongating them. With more and more naturals considering this as a solution for managing their natural hair. We thought it’s worthwhile discussing the pros, cons and things to consider before taking the plunge to get a texture release treatment.

    So What is a Texture Release? 

    “Texture release is a heat activated smoothing system which uses amino acids and conditioning agents to penetrate deep into the hair fibres to straighten your hair.  The product is specifically formulated for naturally curly hair and aims to change the texture of your hair strands whilst increasing the manageability of your hair.” 1

    It’s similar to a relaxer to a certain degree because you’re altering your coil and curl pattern. The biggest difference is the chemicals in a texture release are significantly milder so you don’t experience burns, tingling or irritation. However, it’s important to note that although texture releases are marketed as non-damaging and a more natural alternative. The product still contains chemicals which can have an impact on your natural hair in the long term.

    5 questions to ask yourself before getting a texture release

    1. Do I want to alter my curl pattern?

    Texture releases can alter your curl pattern by elongating them. So let’s say you’re a 4C natural, you could end up with a 4A or 4B curl pattern depending on how often and regularly you do a texture release. However there will be cases where you’ll end up with completely straight hair which doesn’t revert back so it’s important to bear that in mind. Especially if your hair is thin and fragile.

    2. Do I like the versatility of my natural hair?

    Although texture releases makes your hair more manageable and easier to style. You can get the same effect with a silk press and not have the problem of worrying if your hair will revert back. If you like the versatility of rocking your coils /curls and then switching it up for a straighter style then texture releases may not be the option for you. Try silk presses, blow out and roller sets instead. 

    3. Can I keep up with the maintenance treatments?

    Texture releases last 8 to 12 weeks, in some cases you can stretch it slightly longer. You need to keep up with maintenance treatments which can be costly in the long run. You shouldn’t do a texture release at home by yourself and always go to a professional. So check out the costs and have a think about if it’s something you can actually keep up. Prices vary but in the US the average cost is around $275 dollars and £175 in the UK. You’ll also have to buy certain haircare products to maintain the style so bear that in mind when making decisions on the upkeep of the treatment.

    4. Why did I stop relaxing my hair?

    This is a key question to ask yourself and reflect on. Be honest with yourself about why you’re doing this! There are various reasons why people go Natural. It could be because of chemicals, wanting to embrace their natural hair, pain and discomfort of relaxers OR spending hours in the salon. The list goes on and everyone’s reason is different. If your key reason is to stay away from chemicals then texture releases might not be the option for you. 

    5. Am I willing to use chemicals on my hair and scalp?

    Texture releases definitely aren’t in the same category as relaxers but it’s important to know you’ll be using some form of chemicals on your hair and scalp. Although the chemicals in a texture release aren’t as harsh as Sodium Hydroxide OR Lithium, Potassium, Calcium and Guanidine hydroxide. It’s still a chemical treatment which breaks down the bonds in your hair fibres and alters your curl pattern. The main ingredients in a texture release are “Glyoxylol Carbocysteine, Glyoxylol Keratin Amino Acids, and patent-pending Diamine.” 2

    “Glyoxylic acid has emerged as a safe alternative to formol (formaldehyde) use as a hair straightener/relaxer. However, the possible damage to the hair fibre after its application is low known and/or published in the literature 3…The mechanism of action of glyoxylic acid does not appear to be based on breaking and rearrangement of disulfide bridges, but altered them and influenced the hair strength 4”

    Intl Journal of Trichology & Intl Journal of Cosmetic Science

    The study mentions more research needs to be carried out to understand the impact of the chemicals on your hair in the the long term. So decide if it’s a risk you’re willing to take – the biggest impact it’ll have on your hair is on its strength. 

    What are the benefits of texture release?

    • Offers versatility with straighter hairstyles
    • Last’s longer than a silk press
    • Elongates your curls 
    • Reduces shrinkage
    • Makes coarse and thick hair easier to maintain 
    • Great for those who are transitioning to natural

    What are the cons of texture release?

    • Must be done by a professional 
    • Maintenance can be costly over time 
    • Exposing your hair to heat and chemicals
    • Risk of coils and curls not reverting back
    texture release

    FAQ’s 

    1: Does hair go back to normal after texture release?

    Yes and No! Purley because you could have a slightly different experience to a fellow Naturalista. Lets delve into this into a bit more detail… 

    YES –  The treatment washes out after several washes resulting in your hair reverting back to normal. Your coils and curls will not be exactly the same as pre-texture release but more elongated. This usually happens around the 3 month mark. Using a clarifying shampoo will ensure the treatment is completely removed from the hair.

    NO –  Many naturals have complained their coils and curls have remained completely straight despite washing out the treatment. Leading them to do a mini big chop and growing out their hair again due to damage. If your hair is thin and fragile then you risk your coils not reverting back. 

    To minimise damage to your coil and curl pattern, always go to a professional and read reviews beforehand. Explain any concerns you may have re; your hair reverting back and they’ll be able to advise you on products to use and how to maintain it. 

    2: Is texture release damaging?

    As texture releases wash out over a period of time, your hair should revert back to normal. The treatment is designed not to cause any damage but temporarily alter your curl pattern. However, depending on your hair health, thickness, strength etc – you  could end up with some damage. The bonds used in the product breaks down your curls which could affect the overall strength of your hair. If you currently have heat damage or recently dyed/bleached your hair then it’s recommended to wait a couple of months before getting the treatment. 

    3: Is texture release better than a relaxer?

    Yes – It is  much better. The chemicals used are significantly milder and not as harsh as chemicals found in relaxers. Texture releases mimic a texturizer to a certain degree but the benefit of the treatment is the product can be washed out after several washes. Some naturals who are transitioning might opt for a texture release to manage their 2 textures. 

    4: What chemicals are in a texture release?

    The main ingredients in texture release are Glyoxylol Carbocysteine, Glyoxylol Keratin Amino Acids, and patent-pending Diamine. Glyoxylol Carbocysteine has a combination of glycoxylic acid, cysteine and acetic acid. Although Glycoxylic acid is classed as a safer form of formaldehyde. It may have an impact on your hair strength because of the curl altering process. As we mentioned earlier, there is limited research on the long term impact it can have on your hair and scalp but definitely deemed safer.

    5: How to loosen your curl pattern without chemicals?

    Depending on how you wear your hair on a daily basis. There are a couple ways you can elongate your curls specifically using stretching and banding techniques. It really depends on the style you’re trying to achieve. Watch the video below to understand how the techniques work.

    Practise always makes perfect, so be patient with yourself and feel free to try other methods too. 

    FINAL THOUGHTS

    When considering getting a texture release, it’s important to do what’s right for you and works for your hair care maintenance needs. Although this is a chemical enhancing treatment, it’s very mild in comparison to relaxers. Your curl pattern will be altered and elongated so weigh up the pros and cons before getting a texture release. Use the 5 questions to help you decide if this is something you should do or not do. At the end of the day, everyones hair and lifestyle is different so you have to make a decision that’ll add value to you as opposed to just following a trend. 

    We hope you found this article insightful and feel free to ask questions in the comment section. Although, were not experts we’ll be able to steer you in the right direction or share links that might help with your decision making process.

    What to read next about straightening Natural Hair: 10 Silk Press Maintenance Tips

    REFERENCES

    1. Avlon – Texture Release ↩︎
    2. Respect – Science of Texture Release ↩︎
    3. Velasco, Maria Valéria Robles et al. “Impact of Acid (“Progressive Brush”) and Alkaline Straightening on the Hair Fiber: Differential Effects on the Cuticle and Cortex Properties.” International journal of trichology vol. 14,6 (2022): 197-203. doi:10.4103/ijt.ijt_158_20 ↩︎
    4. Boga, Carla & Taddei, Paola & Micheletti, Gabriele & Ascari, Federico & Ballarin, Barbara & Morigi, Massimo & Galli, Sylvestre. (2014). Formaldehyde replacement with glyoxylic acid in semipermanent hair straightening: A new and multidisciplinary investigation. International Journal of Cosmetic Science. 36. 10.1111/ics.12148. ↩︎
  • Silk Press Tips : 10 Maintenance Tricks You Need To Know

    Silk Press Tips : 10 Maintenance Tricks You Need To Know

    As much as we love silk presses! The hardest part of getting a silk press is the maintenance and getting it to last without reverting and heat damage. Most Naturalistas struggle with their curl pattern reverting once they get in contact with steam, heat or sweat. Especially Type 4 Naturalistas who have a coarser and tighter texture. We’ll be delving into some silk press tips to help you get the most out of the style. Plus run through some FAQ’s to help you care for your coils and curls.

    Silk presses are great for switching up your natural kinks, coils and curls for a sleeker and straighter look. It gives you a new look without having to chemically alter your hair strands with relaxers, keratin treatments and texture releases. They’re awesome for when you want to wear straighter hairstyles for special occasions like weddings, events, nights out etc. Once you get a silk press – you feel like a new person. To be honest – with any hairstyle you feel like a new woman! You can go from being Brandy with braids to Nia Long with a pixie cut and Beyonce with a weave. That’s the beauty of natural hair – you have so much versatility with your styling options. 

    What is a silk press? 

    A silk press is a technique used to straighten your Type 3 & Type 4 hair texture without using any form of chemicals. The process differs from using just a flat iron due to the technique and products used to give it the soft and silky look without weighing down your natural hair. It’s basically a wash, blow dry and press using lightweight serums and leave ins. 

    The technique includes blow drying your coils and curls in a stretched straight state to achieve a blowout look. Followed up with a flat iron to help seal in that extra smoothness and silkiness with 1 to 2 passes. If done correctly, you shouldn’t have any heat damage and your hair should revert back to its natural state once you wash it.

    How long does a silk press last?

    They typically last 2 to 4 weeks depending on how you maintain it. It’s likely your roots will become puffier at the end of the 2nd week due to sweat, moisture and weather. However, the majority of your hair should still remain straight until you fully saturate your hair with water and wash your hair. Some naturals will have slightly longer results if they silk press regularly and have trained their hair.

    silk press tips
    Source : Nappy Images @reishareynolds

    10 Tips & Tricks for making your Silk Press last longer

    1. Avoid Moisture

    We all know moisture is key for natural hair to grow and thrive but in a silk press environment. Moisture and humidity is the enemy!  Once you get in contact with it – your hair will begin to revert and puff up again. Now there will be points of the day it’ll be impossible to stay away from moisture completely. For instance – when you shower in the morning, sweat from working out and humid or rainy weather conditions.

    Here are some tips on how you can minimise moisture whilst rocking your silk press:

    • Showering 
    • Wrap your hair tightly in a scarf (in fact 2 for that extra protection), then bonnet and wear a shower cap on top to lock out the steam
    • You might want to shower with lukewarm water as opposed to a higher temperature to reduce the steam.
    • Washing your face  
    • Make sure your hair is wrapped or pinned away before washing your face. For extra protection, wear a towel headband along your hairline. This will help soak excess water and stop it from travelling to the rest of your hair
    • Working out
    • Wear your hair in a ponytail and apply a scarf. Wear a sweatband on your forehead or directly on top of your hairline to soak up the sweat 
    • DO NOT remove your scarf until your hair is completely dry! This will help your hair dry back in a stretched state as opposed to reverting 

    2. Prep your Hair – Clarify and Deep Conditioning Treatment 

    Prepping your hair is a really important step if you want your silk press to last. To get a nice flowy look your hair needs to be washed thoroughly and all product build up should be removed from your hair and scalp. Silk presses won’t last on dirty hair – simple as! So wash your hair with a clarifying shampoo and then follow up with a moisturising shampoo to make sure your scalp is clean. 

    It’s also important to get as much moisture locked into your hair strands prior to the straightening process. Get a deep conditioning treatment with hydration benefits and use steam to help the product penetrate through your hair shaft. Then follow up with a liquid based leave in conditioner. This helps you lock in as much moisture as possible to keep your hair healthy and not dry whilst wearing the style.

    Source : GIPHY @shalitagrant

    3. Stay away from water based and heavy products 

    Water will revert your hair so you want to stay away from any moisturisers that contain liquid. Instead you’ll want to use lightweight oils and serums. Be careful not to be too heavy handed with products. The last thing you’ll want is greasy looking hair. Too much product on your silk press will weigh it down and you’ll no longer have that flowy silky look.

    4. Wrap your hair at night 

    Don’t go to bed without wrapping your hair no matter how tired you are! Trust me, you’ll regret it in the morning. Wrap your hair at night with a silk scarf and then wear a bonnet on top. For extra protection opt for a satin or silk pillowcase in case your scarf wants to go for walkies in the middle of the night! (Bad joke! But you get the gist).

    5. Touch up on a low setting 

    You want to avoid re-adding heat to your hair once your silk press has been done. But may need to touch up your hair depending on how long you plan to wear your silk press for. To avoid any form of heat damage, stick to blow drying your roots on a low setting. We’d avoid re-straightening but if you have to – work in sections and do 1 pass. Your silk press should look as good as brand new with a touch up here and there.

    6. Style with flexi rods and pin curls once your roots start frizzing 

    This is one of our fav tips to get more out of your silk press without having to reapply heat. You can experiment with flexi rods, rollers and pin curls. It won’t be super sleek but it’ll still be straight with a slight bounce to it. This is a great way of styling out puffy roots whilst making the most of your press. You can go a step further by experimenting with different styles. You could do a half up half down style or pin up part of your hair with a claw clip.

    silk press tips
    Source : Unsplash @eyeforebony

    7. Try a Dry Shampoo

    If your hair is becoming greasy from oils/serums starting to weigh your hair down. You can use a dry shampoo to remove the grease and stretch your style for another week or 2. It’s important not to be heavy handed with products when wearing a silk press so bear that in mind when styling your hair daily. 

    8. Use products that fight away humidity 

    There are various products on the market that help fight away frizz so opt for products that have these properties when choosing, serums, oils and heat protectants. Although these ingredients don’t completely get rid of humidity – it definitely helps keep it at bay making your style last longer. 

    9. Use wax sticks & edge control

    It’s likely you’ll have multiple fly aways after getting a silk press. Instead of re-straightening and trying to get them completely perfect – use a wax stick to keep them in place. Style your edges with edge control and not gel. Gel has liquid based properties and will lead to frizz.

    10. Go to a Professional  

    If you’re unsure of how to do a silk press then go to a professional who specialises in it. Ask for some tips on how to maintain your silk press and get some product recommendations. Talk the stylist through pain points you’ve had in the past and they should be able to offer you a tailored solution that’ll work best for your hair type and lifestyle.

    Source : Pexels @rdnestockproject

    Product Recommendations

    Here are some popular products recommended by Naturalista’s who regularly get a silk press.

    1. Chi Silk Infusion

    Chi

    2. BioSilk Silk Therapy

    BioSilk

    3. Design Essentials Agave & Lavender weightless Thermal Protectant Serum

    Design Essentials

    4. Living Proof Instant De-Frizzer (Unfortunately, the Humidity Shield was discontinued)

    Living Proof

    5. Color Wow Dreamcoat Spray (This product is designed to keep out humidity. Th extra strength is better suited for Type 4 naturals and must be used on damp hair prior to blow drying)

    Color Wow

    Frequently Asked Questions

    1: How do I keep my silk press from frizzing?

    The key is to stay away from moisture and humidity. Wrap your hair whenever you’re at home with a silk or satin scarf to minimise your ends from rubbing on your clothes. Use products with anti frizz properties and you might want to try a hair spray you can lightly mist your hair with prior to heading out. You’ll also want to be mindful of how you style your hair in very humid conditions. 

    2: How do I make my silk press look fuller?

    Add flat curls to your ends or bump your ends with a straightener to help add volume. You can also add some soft rollers at night to give you that 90’s blow out look that is straight but still full of volume. If your hair is really fine – you can add a couple tracks that match your hair texture for more volume. It doesn’t have to be a lot – 2 – 4 tracks will suffice.

    3: How damaging is a silk press?

    If done correctly, you shouldn’t experience any damage from a silk press. Heat doesn’t damage hair but EXCESSIVE HEAT damages hair! Prior to getting a silk press make sure your hair is in a healthy state and not already damaged. If you have split ends, it’s best to get them snipped to prevent it from travelling further. If your hair is damaged from colour or excessive breakage then it’s best to stay away from silk presses until you nourish your hair back to health. 

    Once you wash your hair, your natural curls and coils will revert. Just be mindful of how often you get a silk press and not re-adding heat constantly to keep your hair healthy. 

    4: Can you workout with a silk press?

    Yes – you can workout with a silk press but have to be extra careful with your maintenance routine. Here are some steps to follow;

    • Step 1 : Put hair in a high ponytail
    • Step 2 : Apply a scarf
    • Step 3 : Place a sweatband on top to soak up any sweat along your hairline
    • Step 4 : DO NOT REMOVE your scarf until your hair is fully dry!
    • Step 5 : Once dry – style as normal or wrap your hair 

    FINAL THOUGHTS

    We hope you found our silk press tips helpful. Silk Presses are great but it’s all about the technique and products you use to get your hair in a silky straight state. Make sure to do the prep needed to get enough moisture into your hair strands to keep your hair healthy.

    Source: GIPHY @ashtaeproducts

    Have you tried any of these TIP’s? Do you have any further suggestions?

    We’d love to hear from you. Leave a comment below