15 Hair Growth Tips For 4C Natural Hair

Out of all the Type 4 hair types, 4C hair is known to be the tightest and coarsest out of all the afro hair textures. The curl pattern is quite unique and made out of really tight zig-zag curls and coils which are closely packed together. 4C Hair is probably the most popular hair type for most Naturalistas and sometimes comes with its challenges when on a hair growth journey. This is due to the amount of shrinkage you’ll experience with this curl type. Despite its challenges – the texture it’s absolutely gorgeous and with the right hair maintenance routine and TLC – you’ll begin to love your 4C hair more and more.

There’s a misconception that 4C Hair can’t grow but we’re here to dispel that myth with 15 tips to help you make the most of your hair 4C hair growth journey whilst falling in love with your texture at the same time. 

Characteristics of 4C Natural Hair

4C and 4B hair can be easily confused due to the similarities of their coil patterns. If you’re unsure if you have 4C hair – here are some characteristics to help you figure it out.

• Tight Z shaped pattern
• Coily hair texture
• Significant shrinkage, up to 70% of your stretched 
• Strands clump together
• Thick and coarse hair (although it’s also possible to have fine 4c hair) 
• Prone to tangles and breakage

NOTE : It’s definitely possible to have multiple textures. For instance I have a mix of 4B and 4C hair strands but one texture is likely to outweigh the other.

15 4C Natural Hair Growth Tips to Try

1.Detangle with care

This is the stage where you’re likely to lose most of your new hair growth and length. Especially if you don’t exercise patience and use some TLC. The 4C hair texture is prone to tangling and knots so using the right technique and products is the best way to minimise any hair loss you’ve worked so hard to grow and retain. Here are some detangling tips to follow:

• Spritz your hair with water to make it easier to work with
• Finger detangle first before using detangling tools
• Use the right detangling tool such as a wide tooth comb. Be careful with detangling brushes, sometimes they can rip out more hair then intended. You can always use a flexi detangling brush which glides with the direction of your hair
• Use a detangler to give you extra slip. If you don’t have a detangler then use conditioner
• Always works in sections – ideally 4 but if you have shorter hair then 6 to 8 

2. Dry hair in stretched state

This is KEY.  4C hair shrinks up to 70% of its stretched state so it’s important to dry hair stretched to minimise further pulling and tugging when it’s time to style your hair. Some benefits of working on stretched hair are as follows:

• You can track your hair growth better
• Minimises knots and tangles 
• Minimises over manipulation from detangling 
• Easier to work with 

3. Moisture, moisture and more moisture

We’ve all heard moisture is key to retain length for Type 4 hair textures. As 4C hair is naturally dry – you  want to spend more time moisturising your hair to prevent breakage tangles and knots. Ideally you’ll want to use a method that helps lock in the moisture for longer such as the LOC or LCO method. Your hair porosity will determine which method is better, click here to read our post on Hair Porosity which gives you a breakdown on how to do a porosity test!

4. Scalp massages

“Research conducted back in 2016 and 2019 found that regular scalp massages led to thicker hair strands. The study was conducted on 9 men who spent 4 mins a day massaging their scalp over a 24 week period. The results found a significant increase in hair thickness at the 24 week mark compared to when they initially started.”¹

Scalp massages are known to increase the blood flow into your hair follicles supporting you to achieve hair growth goals. Although it might be difficult to do this daily, you’ll want to incorporate it into your routine at least a couple times a week. You can use your finger tips or purchase a head massager. If you’d like to take this a step further then you can massage your scalp with a growth oil. The length of time you spend massaging your scalp also has a part to play. To increase the blood flowing to your follicles do it for at least 5 minutes for optimal results. 

5. Heat is not the enemy

We’ve all heard not to use heat as it damages hair but the truth is heat is not the enemy. Excessive heat styling is the enemy!  As 4C hair is fine and can break easily – you’ll definitely want to minimise the amount of times you heat but there is no harm in using it on wash days. Specifically blow drying your hair on a low heat setting to get it fully stretched. You’ll want to limit your heat usage to once or twice a month and use a heat protectant. Don’t be heavy handed when blow drying. There are a lot of straight naturals whose hair are thriving from using heat in moderation. It’s all about how you maintain the style and do not go back in to blow dry or straighten everyday. 

I recently received some feedback from my hairstylist who recommended I use heat to blow dry my hair as I wasn’t retaining enough of my new  growth with my regular air drying method. I usually air dry with twists but it shrinks in a shrunken state which leads to me having to spend more time detangling when styling my hair leading to more hair loss. I’ve noticed my hair is a lot easier to style once dry. If you’ll be using a blow dry I recommend doing it once or twice a month on a low setting and you can follow up with higher heat setting for a short while to minimise your heat usage. 

6. Protective styling 

This is key for retaining your length. Protective styles help keep your ends tucked away and minimises over manipulation from daily styling. The great thing about these styles is there are multiple options available depending on your preference. To make the most of your 4C Natural hair growth,  it’s best to opt for cornrow based hair styles if possible as your hair is completely protected underneath. Styles such as sew-ins,  cornrows with or without braiding hair and crochet braids are some fan favourites. If you prefer other styles, you can try the following;

• Braids (avoid medium sized braids) 
• Mini Twists (with or without extensions) 
• Bantu knots
• Flat Twists
• African Threading 

Regardless of the style you choose, don’t keep your style in for longer than 8 weeks! Have you ever worn a protective style for too long and noticed build up, dryness and difficulty detangling your hair? Well that’s because you’ve kept the style in for too long and probably didn’t have a natural hair care routine whilst wearing the style. As most protective styles utilise some form of extensions – you want to ensure you’re not wearing them for too long so it’s not adding tension to your hairline but also give you an opportunity to fully cleanse your hair and get rid of dead hair that has been trapped in the style.

7. Create a protective styling regimen

Protective styling doesn’t mean you shouldn’t wash or cleanse your hair. In fact, for 4C natural hair to grow – it’s important to have a clean scalp so your hair can thrive. Adopting little things such as moisturising regularly, washing your scalp and sealing your hair with an oil prevents your hair from drying out and helps your hair remain healthy. Depending on the style you choose, you’re likely to have different maintenance routine but here are a couple options you can adopt to help you out:

1. Wash hair at least every 3 to 4 weeks
2. Spritz hair with a leave-in conditioner at least once a week and seal with an oil. If you have a cream based leave in conditioner, you can mix it with water in a spray bottle to create a liquid mixture
3. Use a growth oil but be careful not clog up your follicles. Your scalp naturally produces oils so you don’t want to be too heavy handed with the amount you apply. Start with once a week and then decide if you should do it more or less depending on your hair needs. Also, make sure you massage the oil into your scalp
4. Take extra care with your edges. If you feel the style is adding too much tension to your hairline then it’s best to take it out to minimise any damage.

8. Take a break in between protective styling

Doing the same protective styling back to back is not the best way to achieve hair growth. You want to give your hair a break in between styles and let your scalp breath. Although protective styling is great for hair retention and hair growth, most of the styles add tension to your hairline which will make it slightly fragile. Opt for different styles in between the breaks such as buns, twist outs and braid outs to give your hair a break prior to installing your next style.

10. Cleansing routine

Wash days can be a pain at times but it’s important to have a clean scalp for your 4C hair to grow. Unfortunately the myth of dirty hair helping hair grow isn’t true! Think about it like this – you won’t go days without washing your face because it’ll lead to clogged up pores, irritation and you’ll eventually end up with pimples and spots. Well the same applies to your hair. If you spend so much attention and care on your skin regimen then you need to do the same for your scalp. Dirt clogs up hair follicles, leads to itchiness and irritation – you want to make sure your scalp and hair is in the best condition to create an environment for your hair to thrive.

9. Trim ends regularly 

Don’t skip trimming your ends! It’s as simple as that! Try and trim your hair every 12 weeks. If your hair is already damaged you might do it a bit more regularly such as the 8 – 10 week mark to get rid of any split ends and damage sooner. If your hair is healthy and you’ll like to stretch your trims a bit longer then don’t go past the 16 week mark. You’ll figure out what works best for you once you start incorporating trims into your regimen. Read our article on the benefits of trimming for length retention to learn more.

11. Don’t be a product junkie

We’ve all been guilty of doing this at one point during our natural hair journey. Trust me I’ve been there – buying things because one Naturalista says it works for them, you try it and don’t have the same results and then it sits on the shelf for years. When choosing products, try products that are recommended from other 4C Naturalistas. If possible purchase a tester bottle or the smallest size to see how your hair reacts. Pay attention to whether the products you’re using cause more drying or excessive build up to know if you should continue or not.

One of the things that was a game changer for me was paying attention to how my hair reacted to products after I used it to decide if I should continue or not. There are so many options on the market, you’ll find something that works for you. Once you do, stick to it and you’ll begin to see a difference.

12. Deep conditioning treatments

4C hair benefits a lot from deep conditioning due to the coil pattern drying out easily. They add extra nourishment and hydration to your hair whilst strengthening your hair cuticles. Definitely apply heat when doing the treatment to help the product penetrate deep into your hair shaft. Do this at least once a month and to get the full benefits. Read our guide on deep conditioning for type 4 hair and if you’re interested in DIY recipes then check out this article on homemade deep conditioners to try for natural hair. 

13. Make sure hair isn’t too tight

As you’ll be wearing protective styles regularly to retain length, you want to make sure your hairstyle isn’t too tight. Especially when wearing buns and ponytail styles. Speak up during your appointments when getting braids or twists – if the stylist is braiding too tightly tell them right away instead of waiting to the end. You want to avoid any excessive tension that will lead to hair loss and eventually lead to alopecia. This is why cornrow based protective styles tend to be a better option for hair growth.

15. Pay attention to your scalp

We regularly ignore our scalp in comparison to our hair. 4C hair growth begins at the scalp as that’s where the follicles are based so it’s important to pay attention to your scalp and assess it. If you experience excessive itchiness, dryness or flakes then it might be worth doing a scalp treatment to help eradicate the problem. There are multiple scalp treatments on the market so do your research and if you’re unsure then go to a natural hair salon who specialises in type 4 hair who can give you some advice on what treatment to try.

14. Protect your hair at night

This is a golden rule, sleep with a silk or satin scarf AND/OR bonnet. If you struggle with your scarf staying on all night then you can purchase a silk or satin pillowcase for added protection. Cotton pillowcases are known for drying out hair whilst silk pillowcases help keep moisture in your coils/curls for longer. Satin pillowcases too, tend to be significantly cheaper than silk but it won’t retain moisture as well as silk. 

Bonus tip – Diet and Health!

It’s always good to maintain a good diet, you want to ensure you’re nourished from the inside out. Eating a balanced diet of healthy foods such as vegetables, lean meats and fish will contribute to you achieving your 4C natural hair growth goals. Hair is made of protein and for your 4C natural hair to thrive you need a balance of protein and moisture. Increasing your protein intake can contribute to hair growth and healthy hair. 

FAQS

1: What helps 4C hair grow faster?

Hair growth begins with your scalp and various factors can contribute to how fast it grows such as genetics, eating habits and supplements. As a result, some 4C Naturals hair will grow faster than others. The key to 4C hair growth is a consistent regimen that helps you maintain healthy hair and retain length. Some things that can help speed up your hair growth such as scalp massages and using supplements like biotin. You can also use hair growth oils such as Jamaican black castor oil and rosemary oil but remember consistency is key! Don’t use these things in isolation and they must be used over a lengthy period of time i.e 3 to 6 months to see results. Incorporate them with some of the 15 tips we mentioned above and you’ll see an improvement.

2: Is 4C hair the hardest to grow?

4C hair is naturally dry, fragile and brittle in comparison to other hair types which means it is prone to breakage and damage. The coils clump together and you experience a significant amount of shrinkage which makes it appear like your hair isn’t growing even though it is. The hardest part of hair growth for any Type 4 hair is length retention! Your hair is growing but due to styling and over manipulation – you’re probably not holding onto enough of your new growth which is why protective styling and detangling with care are key contributors to 4c hair growth. 

3: Why is my 4C natural hair always dry?

Due to the nature of the 4C coil pattern being really tight. Moisture can have a hard time penetrating through the hair strands making your hair appear dry and brittle. Getting the adequate amount of moisture into your 4C hair strands will keep it from drying out. Incorporating treatments like deep conditioning and hot oil treatments will help with moisture retention. But it’s also important to moisturise your hair regularly – depending on your hair porosity you can use the LOC or LCO methods to help the moisture stay in your strands for longer. It’s also important to use the right ingredients which have enough hydration. Using oils and butters alone will not moisturise your hair – it’ll just sit on top.

4: Should you moisturise 4c hair everyday?

You can definitely moisturise your 4C hair daily but just be mindful of over moisturising as it’ll make your hair limp and mushy if you don’t have the right moisture/protein balance. Personally, I would recommend moisturising every couple of days if you’re suffering from extreme dryness. This is why you have to be mindful of what hair products you use. When testing products, see how your hair reacts to it. Ask yourself: “Is it drying my hair out OR does it just sit on top of my hair strands?” AND “Does my hair feel moisturised and hydrated?”

There is no harm in refreshing your hair daily with a spray bottle that contains a mixture of water and leave in conditioner. Just be mindful that if you’ve sealed your hair with an oil or butter – it might not penetrate all the way through. Read our post on moisturising vs sealing oils to understand which one you should incorporate into your moisturising routine.

Check out this video to learn more about when and how to moisturise 4C natural hair:

FINAL THOUGHTS

As you can see, maintaining, growing and retaining 4C hair requires a variety of different elements incorporated into your hair regimen for your hair to thrive. The key is consistency and patience. If you try one of the tips and it doesn’t work for you then it’s okay to drop it. You have to trust the process and give yourself a bit of time to see results. Remember – your hair is beautiful, enjoy the process and embrace the journey. You can’t change the hair on your head but you can grow to love it by knowing how to care for it properly.

We hope this post helped you, we’d love to hear from you in the comment section.

What’s been your biggest struggle with your 4C hair growth journey? OR What have you found most useful and helpful to achieve your 4C hair growth goals?

REFERENCES

1. Standardized Scalp Massage Results in Increased Hair Thickness by Inducing Stretching Forces to Dermal Papilla Cells in the Subcutaneous Tissue : Taro Koyama, PHD, MD, Kazuhiro Kobayashi MD, Takanori Hama, Kasumi Murakami and Rei Ogawa, PHD, MD. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4740347/ ↩︎