NaturalistaVibes

Author: NaturalistaVibes

  • Protective Hairstyle 101: Are They Really Protecting Your Hair?

    Protective Hairstyle 101: Are They Really Protecting Your Hair?

    Protective hairstyles are a cornerstone of the natural hair community. They offer the flexibility to experiment with different looks while keeping your kinks, curls and coils intact. However, despite the popularity of styles like braids, twists, and cornrows, many women still experience breakage and hair loss when wearing these styles.

    Are you dealing with breakage or excessive shedding with protective styles? Do you notice significant hair loss and pulling along your hairline? Or perhaps you constantly wear protective hairstyles but haven’t seen any progress in your hair growth journey. 

    If you’re facing these problems, it’s time to reconsider: “Is your protective hairstyle really protecting your hair or harming it?” While these styles are beloved in the natural hair community, many women still encounter issues. So what’s going wrong? Why are so many women having problems despite the intended benefits?

    In this post, we’ll delve into the benefits and drawbacks of protective hairstyles, uncover the reasons behind these issues, and offer tips to ensure your hair is truly protected.

    Benefits of wearing Protective Hairstyles

    The term protective hairstyle clearly explains the benefit of wearing these styles. Their purpose is to protect your natural hair, keeping it healthy and help you retain length. Protecting your hair  from any potential damage caused by daily styling, heat, tangling and breakage. Many women in the natural hair community swear by the improvements they’ve seen while rocking these styles. And although, some women haven’t had the best experience. Protective hairstyles can support you maintain healthy hair if done correctly. 

    Here are 5 top benefits of rocking these styles.

    1. Minimising risk of damage to your hair 

    As your hair is tucked away, it reduces the risk of over manipulation that comes with daily styling. The type 4 curl pattern is fragile and can snag easily when combing, detangling or styling your hair. The fact you’ll be doing this less frequently while wearing protective hairstyles helps eradicate this and minimises breakage. Plus, you won’t be using styling tools such as heat as regularly when wearing these styles.

    2. Supports with length retention 

    In order to reach your length retention goals. It’s best to leave your hair alone! I know it sounds cliche but the less time your hands are spent styling or parting your hair the better it is for you to hold onto that length you worked so hard on achieving. 

    3. Low Maintenance

    You’ll be able to wake up and go! Protective hairstyles require minimal effort when styling your hair daily. They’re easy to maintain and typically last 6 – 8 weeks. With the right  maintenance you can stretch them for up to 12 weeks. Saving time in the morning when getting ready. This is a big PRO for many Naturalistas! 

    4. Offers Flexibility of styling 

    Naturalistas are blessed with versatility of styling options bearing in mind you can wear your hair straight, coily/curly or in it’s shrunken state. A protective hairstyle will increase your ability to wear these styles without causing damage to your hair. The fact you’re not constantly altering your coil pattern keeps the hair strands strong and healthy. 

    5. Helps you get through that awkward length stage 

    If you’re newly natural going through that awkward TWA stage or not happy with your current length. Wearing a protective hairstyle will help you get through that phase.

    Drawbacks of Protective Hairstyles

    Although protective styles have many benefits – it also comes with its cons. Here are 4 main drawbacks of wearing a protective hairstyle.

    1. Wearing them constantly could lead to excess shedding

    Have you heard the term too much of anything isn’t good for you? Well, the same logic applies to protective styles. As much as they’re great for your hair – if you wear the same hairstyle all the time without breaks in between then you’re not giving your hair enough time to recover. Putting constant tension on your hair strands and scalp eventually leads to hair loss.

    2. What you class as a protective hairstyle isn’t protecting your hair strands

    Another drawback is that what you consider as a protective style isn’t actually a protective hairstyle. Let’s delve into the definition of “what is a protective hairstyle?” to help understand what we mean. A protective hairstyle means your hair is fully tucked up and away and your ends are completely hidden. So if you’re rocking a style wear a big chunk of your hair isn’t tucked away then that isn’t a protective style.

    For example : Although some sew-ins are classed as a protective style, if you have a lot of leave out then your hair isn’t fully protected. This is because you’ll be manipulating your hair regularly to make sure it blends with your hair. Another example of this is mermaid braids – if the ends of your hair are not fully braided and are left out with the braiding hair then your ends are not protected.

    3. Tight protective hairstyles lead to hair loss and alopecia

    Thirdly, tight styles and pulling along the hairline can lead to hair loss and alopecia. If you’re not careful, the problem will become irreversible leading to long term damage. This is why it’s important to speak up at your appointments if you feel your hair is too tight. Many people believe braiding the hair tight will make your hairstyle last longer but it’s actually leading to damage. When wearing protective styles – you should always make sure they’re not tight or pulling on your edges. Remember, Type 4 hair is fine and fragile. Protective hairstyles can add weight to your already fine hair especially when adding braiding hair and extensions. 

    4. If you don’t care for your hair while wearing them then you’ll experience matting

    Certain protective styles can lead to matting if worn for extended periods of times. Protective hairstyles such as braids and twists can cause your hair to matt as the strands become tangled within the style. This is why it’s important to not wear your style for more than 8 weeks at a time. 12 weeks max if you have a good maintenance routine. When removing the style, use a leave-in conditioner or detangler with a great slip to make the process easier and stop you from pulling out any of your hair strands.

    Now despite the drawbacks, this doesn’t mean protective styles don’t work. It’s just about being aware of the best protective styles to achieve your goals and following the right prep and maintenance techniques.

    Best protective hairstyle for hair growth 

    protective hairstyles / protective styles

    Here are the best protective hairstyles if you’re trying to achieve length.

    1. Cornrows 

    This is the best protective hairstyle as your hair is fully protected while wearing the style. The great thing about cornrows is they can be worn in a multitude of ways such as using braiding hair or using your own natural hair. They may not last as long as braids because they get rough easily but a fantastic option for women keen on retaining length. 

    Flat twists are a great alternative to cornrows and keep your hair protected in a similar way without having to use braiding hair. 

    2. Crochet braids

    Another great protective style for holding onto your hair growth. With this style, your hair is fully protected and there is no need to manipulate your hair because it’s completely tucked away. You can experiment with curly or straight extensions offering you a versatility of styling options. 

    3. Sew ins with minimal leave out 

    Sew-ins have a mixed feedback but if installed correctly then you shouldn’t have any problems. The key is to have minimal leave-out or apply a closure. Get your stylist to install a net over your cornrows to help keep them intact and also to minimise any tension on your hair from the sewing of the wefts. Make sure you have at least 5 inches of hair to cover your leave out so you’re not manipulating it daily. Wearing extensions that match your natural hair pattern is a MUST if you don’t want to use heat daily so opt for kinky straight or kinky curly bundles. Lastly, make sure your sew in isn’t too tight! That’s the number one cause of traction alopecia which you’ll want to eradicate when wearing sew-ins.

    4. Medium sized braids

    There are many ways to rock braids such as fulani/tribal, french curl, knotless, boho and mermaid braids. But medium sized knotless or box braids are the best if you’re trying to make the most of your hair growth. It minimises any pulling or tension when styling your hair into ponytails or buns and isn’t too heavy on your scalp. Some braid styles mermaid braids aren’t actually protective if the ends of your hair aren’t completely braided. So bear that in mind when trying out new braid styles.

    5. Mini Twists 

    Mini twists are a perfect protective hairstyle which are low maintenance but also makes it easy to wash your hair and keep it hydrated. The twists are lightweight making it minimal risk for pulling and tugging along your hairline. They’re versatile and can be worn in buns, ponytails, half up half down styles etc. One thing to be weary of is twists can matt easily when washing your and can twist around each other. So don’t keep them in longer than 8 weeks at time. Remove carefully and finger detangle with a product with a lot of slip.

    6. Glueless Wigs 

    Wigs are great as you’re able to take them down daily. If you prefer frontals then you want to be careful of the product and glue use along the hairline as this can cause hairloss around your edges and irritation. If hair growth is you main goal for wearing a protective style then opt for a glueless wig. You can always use mousse and sprtiz on the closure to lay it down. Aside from that, there are several other options available that will cause no damage to your hairline such as headband wigs, u part wigs, half wigs and v part wigs.

    How to Properly care for your hair while wearing a Protective Hairstyle

    Here are our top tips for caring for your natural hair when wearing a protective hairstyle.

    • Prep your hair prior to installing your new style
    • Have a maintenance routine and stick to it!
    • Hydrate your hair regularly : Spritz with hydrating mist and seal with an oil to keep your hair moisturised 
    • Sleep with a silk scarf or silk bonnet 
    • Wear your style for a maximum of 8 weeks to eliminate matting 
    • Give your hair a break in between styles – ideally 2 weeks
    • SPEAK UP at your hair appointments : If your hair feels too tight or pulling on your hairline then let your stylist know straight away instead of dealing with the problem overnight.

    FAQ’s re; Protective Hairstyle

    1: Do protective hairstyles help your hair grow?

    Protective styles don’t grow your hair but help with retaining length and holding onto hair that would have been lost from daily styling and over manipulation. When removing the hairstyle, you’re likely to see a lot of shed hair. But don’t panic! Your hair sheds up to 100 hairs per day so just view it as trapped dead hair that doesn’t have anywhere to go. This doesn’t mean you shouldn’t be careful and patient when removing the style. Saturate your hands with oils to make the loosening process easier and finger detangle first before following up with a wide tooth comb.

    2: How long should you let your hair breathe between protective styles?

    Ideally 2 weeks. Give your hair time to breathe before following up with your next protective style. It might be worth alternating styles too if you find certain parts of your hair weaker than others. The same applies for bun and ponytail styles. Always alternate your parting so you’re not putting too much tension on one side. 

    3: What is the longest lasting protective hairstyle?

    Braids are the longest lasting style as they tend to last 8 to 12 weeks. Other styles such as crochet braids or sew-ins are a close second as they last up to 8 weeks. If you’re not a fan of protective styles which includes the use of added hair then mini twists and flat twists are a great option. If you’re a fan of wigs than that another win win! You can get your hair cornrowed underneath and leave them in for up to 6 weeks at a time. 

    4: What protective style is the least damaging?

    Cornrow based styles such as crochet braids, cornrows with or without braiding hair are the best protective hairstyle to minimise damage. Your hair is completely tucked away and the hair used is quite light and doesn’t weigh down your hair. Sew-ins with minimal leave out or closure is also a safe style due to the cornrow base. If you’re a fan of braids then stick to medium sized braids that aren’t too tight so it doesn’t pull on your hairline.

    5: How to prep hair for a protective style?

    Your hair should be freshly washed and fully hydrated before installing any protective style. Here are some steps to follow

    1. Use a clarifying shampoo to strip any dirt or build up. Then follow up with a moisturising/hydrating shampoo
    2. Apply a moisturising treatment for at least 30 mins, using heat or steam to help the product penetrate through. Read or guide for Deep Conditioning Type 4 hair for product recommendations.
    3. Once rinsed out, apply a leave-in conditioner (always do this in sections of 4 to ensure the product is equally distributed).
    4. Seal your ends with an oil to help keep the moisture locked into your strands. Read our guide for on sealing vs moisturizing oils to know what products to use.
    5. Airdry or blow dry as you desire

    BONUS TIP : If you’re using braiding hair or extensions then wash the hair prior to installation to remove any chemicals or dirt that may cause irritation to your scalp You can also do an apple cider vinegar rinse. 

    FINAL THOUGHTS

    Understanding the pros and cons of your protective hairstyle is crucial for maintaining healthy natural hair. Opt for styles that fully protect your hair or has minimal leave-out. Before installation, prep your hair thoroughly and ensure it’s well moisturised before sealing with an oil.

    Regularly clarify and hydrate your scalp to promote cleanliness and keep your hair healthy. Creating a clean environment minimises product buildup, allowing your hair to thrive.

    What’s your experience with protective styles? Share your tips and thoughts in the comments!

  • Eradicate Split Ends: Your Ultimate Guide to Healthy Afro Hair

    Eradicate Split Ends: Your Ultimate Guide to Healthy Afro Hair

    Split ends are those pesky little buggers that can seriously sabotage your length retention goals. Unfortunately, on afro hair, split ends are harder to spot due to the natural coiling of our hair strands. Unless you frequently blow out your hair, you might not even notice them and mistakenly think your hair is healthy. But beneath those beautiful curls and coils,, you could have damaged, thinning ends!

    In this comprehensive guide, we’ll walk you through everything you need to know about split ends on afro hair—how to spot them, treat them, and prevent them. Say goodbye to split ends and hello to healthy, vibrant hair. Let’s dive in and discover the secrets to maintaining radiant, split-end-free afro hair!

    What are split ends? 

    If you’re experiencing split ends, you’re not alone! They’re caused from a variety of factors such styling, excessive use of heat, colour treatment and lack of moisture. Split ends are created from fibres breaking or splitting as a result of damage. They typically occur on the ends of your hair which is the weakest and most fragile because it’s the oldest part of your hair strands.

    Afro hair is naturally fragile and split ends are a sign the outer layer of your hair strands are damaged. Although, typically occur on your ends – they can easily appear on other sections of your hair and can travel upwards to to the rest of your hair shaft leading to breakage. 

    It has a detrimental impact on your hair strands if not treated quickly. Leaving your hair brittle, dry and frizzy. As afro hair shrinks and coils around each other easily – it makes it harder for you to spot the splits. In the moment, you might feel your hair isn’t growing but you’re likely to be losing more length then retaining it because your ends are splitting at a faster rate due to the damaged cuticles. 

    Split End Types

    Split End Chart

    How to identify if your afro hair has split ends?

    Spotting split ends on natural hair can be quite tough bearing in mind your hair strands shrink up to 70% of its length. If you’re a natural who doesn’t blow out or straighten their hair regularly, it’ll make it even harder for you to spot. Here are 5 signs to help you identify if your afro hair has split ends. 

    1. Your ends feel and appear thin
    2. Your ends are excessively dry and feel brittle 
    3. Hair snags and knots easily
    4. Detangling isn’t as smooth as it is normally and you find your hair is tangling easily 
    5. Your ends are uneven 

    How do I get rid of split ends in afro hair?

    Now you know how to identify split ends.You might be wondering, how do i get rid of split ends on my natural hair. The simplest answer is to get them trimmed and if your split ends have travelled quite far up the hair shaft then get a cut for a fresh start. If you’re not a fan of getting rid of your split ends in one go – you can gradually trim them over a 3 to 6 month period. Just remember, your hair health is more important than length so the sooner you snip them the better it is for your hair.

    It’s best to go to a professional instead of trimming your own hair but just be careful not to go to a scissor-happy stylist who may cut off more than is required. Do your research, watch instagram or tik tok videos to see if the stylist meets your expectations and go from there.

    If you prefer to get rid of your own split ends. Watch this step by step tutorial by Healthy Afro Hair.

    TIP : Purchase scissors specifically for hair so you don’t create any further damage.

    How to prevent split ends?

    Unfortunately split ends are inevitable and are likely pop up on your hair strands every couple of months. Here are 6 top ways to stay on top of them and prevent them from appearing on your afro hair.

    1. Stay on top of your trims :

    Aim to trim your hair every 3 months. You can stretch to 4 months if you prefer but just don’t go past that mark. Read our article on the benefits of trimming your natural hair for more insight.

    2. Moisture Moisture Moisture :

    We can’t stress enough how important moisture is to keep your hair afro hair hydrated to minimise breakage or split ends. You can utilise moisture in a variety of ways from using hair masks, deep conditioning treatments and moisture intense leave in-conditioners. 

    Read our post on Best Deep conditioners for Type 4 Hair and Easy Homemade Deep Conditioner recipes if you need some inspiration on what products to try!

    3. Protect Ends at Night :

    Sleep with a satin or silk scarf to prevent friction on your ends. For that added protection – get a silk pillowcase especially if your bonnet falls off at night.

    4. Protect your hair whilst using heat :

    Always use a heat protectant when styling with heat and minimise how often you use it. For instance, you don’t want to straighten your hair every day. If you’re rocking a straight silk press, wrap your hair at night and avoid re-pressing your hair. Read our article on Silk Press Tips to help you maintain your straightened hair. 

    5. Utilise protein treatments :

    These treatments strengthen your hair shaft and prevent splits. Be careful not to overload your hair with protein as it can make your hair brittle. If you’re a high porosity natural you can use it every 1 to 2 months AND low porosity naturals every 2 to 3 months. 

    6. Be careful when dyeing or colouring your hair :

    Unfortunately ​​Hair dye contains chemicals that can weaken and damage the hair shaft, leading to splits. Getting your hair dyed by a professional can ensure proper application and minimise damage. Use deep conditioning treatments and leave-in conditioners to keep hair hydrated.

    Best split end treatment for black hair 

    There are a variety of treatments on the market that help keep split ends at bay. These are temporary fixes and should not be used as a replacement to trimming your ends. However, they can be used as an aid to help prevent split ends whilst acting as an extra layer to seal your ends so they don’t fray easily.

    Here are 4 split end treatments that work well on afro textured hair. 

    1. Keratese Nutritive Split end treatment 
    Keratese Split End Serum

    The treatment is designed to treat and prevent splits by strengthening the hair fibres and sealing the ends. It contains plant based proteins, niacinamide and glycerin. Great for women who have curly, coily or damaged hair. 

    1. Amika Instant Repair Cream
    afro hair split end cream

    A lightweights 2 in 1 cream which treats split ends and repairs damaged hair. The product claims to seal 96% of split ends due to its bond curing technology. It’s a versatile product which can be used as a styling cream or a leave in treatment

    1. Moroccan Oil Mending Fusion
    Split end treatment black hair

    This treatment is great for anyone looking to repair, prevent and strengthen their split ends. It’s infused with argan oil and enriched with a blend of vitamins and quinoa proteins making it a natural alternative. 

    1. Deva Curl Re-Coiling split end treatment
    afro hair split end treatment

    Designed specifically for curly hair – this product repairs split ends. It uses an advanced technology to repair existing damage and prevent future damage by re-linking the broken bonds. It’s silicone and paraben free, created with the support of dermatologists. 

    FAQ’s re; Split Ends

    1: Why does my afro hair keep breaking and How to stop afro hair from breaking?

    Your afro hair is breaking due to something in your hair routine. There are many factors that contribute to breakage such as lack of moisture, detangling on dry hair, not using the right products, tight hairstyles, diet and not using the right styling tools. As 4A, 4B and 4C hair strands are quite fine in nature. There are various elements you’ll need to incorporate into your natural hair routine to keep your hair healthy and eliminate breakage. Aside from staying on top of your trims and keeping split ends at bay. Here are 6 key TIPs you can incorporate into your hair regimen:

    • Incorporate moisture retention techniques such as the LOC or LCO method.
    • Don’t use products with harsh ingredients – opt for silicone and sulphate free products.
    • Incorporate treatments such as deep conditioning and hair masks
    • Utilise steam to open your hair cuticles and ensure moisture penetrates through the hair shaft
    • Detangle on damp hair and use a product with a great slip 
    • Be careful with protective styling : Make sure your hair isn’t too tight and create a haircare routine whilst wearing these styles. This should include cleansing your scalp and getting the adequate amount of moisture into the hair strands

    Here are some post you might find helpful for protective styling 👍

    The truth about braids for hair growth and length retention

    Mini Twists : The Ultimate style for retention and hair growth

    Can sew-ins contribute to natural hair growth?

    How to rock clip in extensions on Type 4 hair?

    2: Why does black hair break so easily?

    Unfortunately due to the nature of our coil and curl structure, afro type 4 hair has the tendency to break easily. However, bearing that in mind – the main culprit for breakage is dryness, lack of moisture and manipulation from daily styling which is why it’s important to treat your hair with TLC. 

    If you’re experiencing excessive breakage, a quick fix is to incorporate moisture retention techniques such as the LOC or LCO to increase hydration into your hair strands to help with elasticity whilst strengthening your hair strands. 

    If your breakage is due to a change in your hair routine i.e. a chemical treatment, excessive heat or bleaching. Then STOP now, the best way to eliminate breakage is to identify the route cause and tackle it straight away. 

    3: How to tell if afro hair is damaged?

    A quick tell-tell sign of damaged afro hair is the change in texture. If your hair feels extremely dry and brittle then it’s an early warning sign your hair is damaged. If not careful, this could lead to breakage – you may need to review the products you’re using to ensure they have moisturising properties such as film-forming humectants to ensure your hair cuticles are actually being nourished.

    Another sign of damage is if your curl or coil pattern is straight and doesn’t revert back. Let’s say you had a silk press or recently bleached your hair. Your coil pattern should return back to normal. If it remains straight then you’ve experienced some form of damage within the hair cuticle itself and the only way to get rid of it is by cutting the dead hair.

    If you’re experiencing excessive frizz in comparison to normal. Then you probably have some form of damage – afro hair is naturally frizzy but if your frizz is out of control then this is a sign your cuticles are raised and having difficulty retaining moisture. 

    4: Can damaged afro hair be repaired?

    With the right level of TLC, you can nurse your damaged afro back to health. You’ll need to utilise treatments such as moisture rich deep conditioning masks and/or protein treatments depending on the level of damage. If your ends are completely damaged – you’ll need to start with a fresh cut to give you the best possible chance of reviving your hair health. 

    You’ll need to cut back on the things that led to the damage in the first place such as using excessive heat, bleaching hair, tight hairstyles etc. 

    If you’re on the hunt for what treatments to use, read the following articles:

    8 Deep Conditioning Treatments for 4A, 4B & 4C Hair

    Easy Homemade Deep Conditioners To Try for Natural Hair

    5: Does split ends stop hair growth?

    Split ends does not stop the rate of growth from your scalp but can hinder your length retention goals. Depending on how high the split ends have travelled up the hair shaft – your hair will start breaking. Making it appear like your hair is not growing. But instead it’s breaking off at a faster rate than it’s actually growing.

    FINAL THOUGHTS 

    Dealing with split ends on afro hair can be challenging, but with the right knowledge and care, you can maintain healthy, vibrant hair. This guide has covered how to identify split ends, methods to treat them, and preventive measures to keep your hair in top condition. Remember:

    • Identify Split Ends: Look for signs like thin, dry, brittle ends and increased tangling.
    • Treat Split Ends: Trim them regularly, preferably with the help of a professional, and consider using targeted split end treatments.
    • Prevent Split Ends: Keep your hair moisturised, protect it from heat and friction, and handle it gently.

    Split ends are a natural part of hair wear and tear, but with these tips, you can minimise their impact and keep your afro hair healthy and strong. If you notice an increase in split ends and breakage after changing your hair care routine, stop using the new product or method immediately and switch to one that supports your hair’s health.

    We hope you found this guide helpful and informative. For more tips and product recommendations, check out our related articles on deep conditioning treatments, protective styling, and more.

  • How to Dry Natural Hair Properly

    How to Dry Natural Hair Properly

    Natural hair is most fragile when wet so you might be wondering – “what’s the best way to dry my natural hair without causing damage?”. Blow drying and air drying are the most popular techniques but both have their pros and cons. Plus, what might work best for one naturalista might not be right for you.

    So what’s the best technique? We’ll be uncovering the best methods to dry your natural hair effectively. Plus pros and cons of each method whilst giving you some tips and tricks to ensure you’re armed with the right information.

    What is the best way to dry natural hair?

    The way you choose to dry your natural hair is a personal choice. You might find air drying easier or you might prefer blow drying. We’re conscious that everyone’s lifestyle is different and you’ll have your own preference. So here are some key tips to follow to make sure you’re not being too rough and abrasive with your hair strands. 

    1. Use a microfiber towel :

    If you’re using a cotton towel to dry your hair then stop now! The materials used to create the towels are coarse and harsh on hair strands, especially type 4 hair which is already fine and fragile. If not careful, it could lead to damage by making split ends worse eventually leading to breakage. 

    Instead opt for a microfiber towel which is softer in texture and super absorbent. Some of the benefits of microfiber towels include reduction in frizz, cutting down your drying time and helping reduce breakage. Some naturals use a t-shirt which is lightweight and softer as an alternative. 

    2. Wrap and squeeze :

    Type 4 hair is most fragile when wet so you need to take extra care when drying. Don’t rub the towel against your hair strands as it’ll cause tension on your stands and could lead to breakage. Instead wrap the towel round your hair and squeeze gently until dry. Turban microfibre towels make this process easy to do and will help you resist rubbing the towel against your hair.

    3. Stick to a method that works best for you :

    Whether you prefer air drying or blow drying. You know what works best for your coils and curls. So stick to what your hair likes. You’re the only one who’ll know how your hair feels after doing both methods. You can also switch between the two if you like the best of both worlds. 

    4. Apply leave in conditioner in sections :

    This helps to ensure the product is fully distributed across all your hair strands helping your hair stay hydrated whilst minimizing frizz.

    Blow Drying Natural Hair 

    Blow drying is a long standing technique for drying natural hair.  You were probably used to getting your hair blow dried as a child as air drying wasn’t really a thing back in the day.  When the natural hair movement began in the 2000s, blow drying was deemed as negative due to its close ties with heat damage. 

    As the years have gone by, there’s been more insight into blow drying and it’s not actually bad for your hair. Have you ever wondered why hair care specialists have always and still use heat tools to style your hair? Well, that’s because there are some benefits to using heat to maintain your natural hair. It took me a while to understand that heat is not the enemy! EXCESSIVE use of HEAT is the ENEMY.

    With blow drying – it’s all about the technique you follow to ensure you don’t experience damage. So you shouldn’t eliminate it from your hair care routine completely.

    blow drying natural hair
    Image Source : Unsplash (TYMO beauty)

    Benefits of Blow Drying Natural Hair 

    Aside from getting an arm workout, here are the benefits of blow drying your Type 4 coils

    1. Helps prevent single strand knots and minimizes tangles as your hair won’t be coiling around itself whilst drying 
    2. Prevents breakage from styling : Your hair is weakest when wet so blow drying makes styling easier and minimizes breakage.
    3. Stretching out your hair reduces the amount of time spent detangling hair in its shrunken state. 
    4. Minimizes tension on your hair cuticles. When your hair is wet for long periods of the time, the cuticle expands making your hair more fragile.

    Tips for Blow drying

    Here are our top tips for using heat to blow drying your hair 

    1. Use the Tension Method: This is the gentlest method for blow drying type 4 hair strands. Rather than using a comb attachment. Separate your hair into 4 to 6 sections. Hold or stretch each section of your hair and run the hair dryer up and down on a cooler setting until dry. Once done, you can follow up with a comb on a higher setting to get your coils straighter. Watch the video below for a step by step guide.

    2. Adjust your heat settings : Dry hair on a low to medium setting until 80% dry and then follow up with a higher setting until your hair is completely dry 

    3. Finish with a cool blast to smooth down your cuticles and create shine whilst locking in moisture.

    4. Work in sections of 4 – 6 to prevent tangles and help ensure your hair is thoroughly dry. This will also help you be gentle with your hair strands.

    5. Use a heat protectant or serum to prevent heat damage  

    6. Invest in a good quality hair dryer

    Air Drying Natural hair

    Air Drying has become extremely popular over the last decade. It’s many naturals preferred option for drying their natural hair and also classed as the healthier option. The main reason for this is due to the eradication of heat from the drying process. Although air drying is great it also has its cons. Let’s talk about why!

    1. Hair Shaft Swells – The hair shaft swells when it gets into contact with water making already fine Type 4 hair weaker when wet. When water is left on the cortex of your hair for long periods of time. It can lead to breakage due to the pressure of holding on to excessive moisture for hours.  
    2. Increase of Frizz – Your hair is likely to frizz more when air drying in comparison to a smooth finish from a blow dry. Now there are products to eradicate this like curl creams and anti frizz serums but you’ll have to test out a couple of products first to see what works.
    3. Scalp Bacteria and Mold – Due to the number of hours it takes for your hair to be completely dry. The wetness creates an environment for bacteria and mold to grow on your scalp. This is the case if you air dry regularly, especially overnight. If you notice some scalp irritation – then it’s worth looking into how air drying has contributed to that. 
    4. Increase of single strand knots – when Type 4 hair dries in its loose state – the curls and coils naturally shrink eventually curling over itself causing knots. 
    air drying natural hair
    Image Source : Pexels (Sora Shimazaki)


    Although, we’ve focussed on the cons. Air drying isn’t all bad – it’s just important to be aware of the limitations to help you properly care for your hair. If you’ve noticed some breakage or constant knots then it might be worth considering another drying option OR limit the amount of times you air dry your hair.

    Tips for Air Drying

    • Use a microfiber towel to squeeze excess water from your hair 
    • Do not apply a leave in or other styling products on soaking wet hair. 
    • Don’t overload your hair with products. The more product you use, the longer it’ll take for your hair to dry. Use moderate sizes to limit this!
    • Split your hair in 4 to 6 sections to make it easier to dry in a stretched state. Feel free to twist or braid each section depending on your preference..
    • Be careful when air drying overnight : Due to your hair being damp with minimal airflow this could lead to moldy environments creating a breeding ground for bacteria on your scalp. If you prefer air drying overnight – ensure your hair is at least 50% dry to limit this.  

    Is it better to blow dry or air dry natural hair?

    If you’re stuck on what technique or to use to dry your hair then it’s worth taking a step back and focus on your hair porosity. Knowing your hair porosity will help you figure out how to better care for your hair and will support you in using the right techniques for your hair to dry.

    • High Porosity Naturals – Air drying will probably work best due to how quickly your hair strands absorb water. Be mindful of frizz as high porosity is prone to frizz and ensure you’re using a moisturizing leave-in to help smooth your strands.
    • Low Porosity Naturals – Blow drying on a low to medium setting will probably work best due to how long it takes for water to absorb through the hair strands. Especially if you have fine hair. Excess water will sit on the strands weighing it down eventually causing damage.

    Both techniques have their limitations so it’s important to test them out on your hair to see what has better results. You can also use a combination of the two if you’re worried about damage. For instance, in warmer temperatures and climates like summer you can opt for air drying and in colder months where it’s likely to take longer for your hair to dry you can opt for blow drying. 

    What is the least damaging way of drying natural hair?

    There are pros and cons to both methods, it’s all about the technique you use and TLC you apply to the drying process.

    A study conducted on hair shaft damage from heat and drying time concluded that “using a hair dryer caused more surface damage than natural drying, the results suggested that using a hair dryer at a distance of 15 cm with continuous motion causes less damage than drying hair naturally”1

    The study showed that air drying produced a protected hair surface in comparison to blow drying. However, the inner layers of the hair shaft were damaged due to the length of time it took for the hair to completely dry naturally. The pressure of excess water in the hair shaft caused swelling leading to breakage and damage. Learn more about the study here. 

    If you’re already suffering from some form of damage i.e. heat or color then air drying is the least damaging way to dry your hair whilst nursing it back to health.If you notice your constantly getting single strand knots or your is weaker then blow drying is the least damaging way. Both methods are effective – it’s just about understanding what works best for your hair so you’ll need to pay more attention to how your hair reacts/feels after trying both to decide on what to choose.

    hair drying tools
    Image Source : Pexels (Shari Sirotnak)

    Does drying your hair with a towel damage hair?

    Using a cotton towel can cause damage to your natural hair because the materials are harsh and coarse on your hair strands. Remember, your natural hair is most fragile when wet so you want to limit the use of anything that’ll be abrasive on your hair strands. If you’re constantly using towels then this could lead to breakage.

    My Personal Experience : Blow Drying vs Air Drying

    For instance, I used to air dry my hair all the time thinking it was healthier but recently went back to blow drying. My hair stylist noticed I had an increased number of single strand knots which was affecting my length retention goals. She suggested I blow dry every wash day over 3 months until my next trim to see if I noticed a difference and I did. Straight away I noticed I was losing less hair when styling my hair after blow drying compared to air drying. I also experience less single strand knots – I used to dry my hair in twists but it would still shrink up coiling against each other causing knots. As I’m a low porosity natural – I also noticed – I was able to get the moisture into my strands quicker as it wasn’t just sitting on my hair strands for hours at a time.

    I share my experience just to show the importance of testing out the two methods to figure out what will work best for you.

    FINAL THOUGHTS

    You should now feel empowered with a range of effective techniques for drying your hair! We’ve delved into the debate of blow drying versus air drying, equipping you with insights to make the perfect choice. And remember, you can always use both methods for ultimate flexibility. Just stay mindful of the proper techniques to safeguard your hair’s health.

    We’re curious: What’s your go-to hair drying method? Share with us in the comment section – we’re all ears!

    1.  Lee Y, Kim YD, Hyun HJ, Pi LQ, Jin X, Lee WS. Hair shaft damage from heat and drying time of hair dryer. Ann Dermatol. 2011 Nov;23(4):455-62. doi: 10.5021/ad.2011.23.4.455. Epub 2011 Nov 3. PMID: 22148012; PMCID: PMC3229938. ↩︎
  • Best Gel for 4A, 4B, 4C Hair : Your Ultimate Guide

    Best Gel for 4A, 4B, 4C Hair : Your Ultimate Guide

    Struggling to find the best gel for your 4A, 4B, or 4C hair? Let’s talk about the never-ending quest for the perfect gel, shall we? You know the struggle—wrestling with frizz, searching for that ideal hold, and praying for a product that won’t betray you with an annoying white cast. We know it can be a challenge with so many products on the markets to choose from.

    But fear not, fellow naturalistas! We’re here to guide you through the maze of hair products and lead you straight to the holy grail of gels. Imagine a product that not only defines your coils but also locks in moisture and banishes frizz without leaving a trace of that dreaded white residue. Keep reading to learn more!

    Things to consider when choosing a hair gel

    Before we get onto our recommendations about the best gel for 4A, 4B or 4C hair. Let’s talk about some important factors to consider when deciding on what hair gel to choose. It’s good to know how gels may affect your hairs overall health or hairstyle. Here are 4 areas worth considering before splurging the cash on a gel that might not cater to your hair needs. 

    1. What look are you trying to achieve?

    You’ll probably need to invest in a couple of gels to cater to all your hairstyle needs. For instance, if you’re wearing a wash n go style. You’ll want to use a gel with a light to medium hold which doesn’t dry out your curls and coils but also keeps them intact. But if you’re going for a sleek ponytail or bun style then you’ll want to use a gel with a strong hold. If your hair has been straightened and you don’t want it to revert back then you’ll want to use an edge control and/or wax stick to keep it straight.

    As you can see – it all depends on what look you’re trying to achieve. Check out our recommendations below for gels which work best for sleek styles, wash n go’s and your edges. 

    2. Key ingredients in hair gel

    Ideally you’ll want to stick to gels with moisturising benefits to keep your hair from drying out. Moisture is key for Type 4 girlies so it’s important to keep that at the forefront when picking products. Now, we appreciate this depends on the look you’re going for. For instance if you’re rocking a sleek ponytail and want no signs of waves then moisture will give it a slight wavy pattern. 

    The main key ingredients you’ll want to see on the packaging for  moisturising benefits are: 

    • Water (1st and most important) 
    • Film forming humectants such as Marshmallow Root, Aloe Vera, Slippery Elm, Pathenol, Honey and Nettle Leaf tea or Nettle Extract. 

    You’ll also find polymers and thickeners in gel which are needed to give it the texture and hold required to keep your hair intact. “PVP/VA copolymer or just VP/VA copolymer – PVP (Poly N-Vinyl-2-Pyrrolidone) is one of the best film-formers. It absorbs water readily, thus making it tricky in humid weather. PVA (Polyvinyl Acetate) resists absorption of water but not as great as PVP in film-forming. PVP/VA copolymer or just VP/VA copolymer is a  hybrid of the above 2 – Best of both worlds”1

    3. Hair Porosity 

    Depending on your porosity you’ll want to use products that absorb into your har don’t just sit on top of it creating product build up. High Porosity naturals can use heavier gels whilst low porosity naturals should use lightweight gels. If you have normal porosity hair then you can choose from either.

    4. Does it mix well with your styling products 

    Have you ever mixed your styling products with hair gel and noticed it clumps? Well, that’s because the 2 products don’t work well together. Some styling creams/curl pudding don’t work well with certain gels. So make sure to do a test before applying both products throughout your hair to prevent this from happening. A simple way to do the test is mix the 2 products together on the palm of your hand and see if it mixes well.

    8  Best Gels for 4A, 4B, 4C Hair 

    Finding the perfect gel for type 4 hair can indeed be a challenge, but once you find the right one, it can make a world of difference to your styling routine. Here are a few tried and tested gels that cater to type 4 hair textures (NOTE: This list isn’t in any particular order) :

    1. Eco Style Argan Oil Gel: 

    Ecostyle is a favourite amongst many naturalistas. It has a good hold and offers versatile styling options from slick back styles to wash n go’s whilst giving you that extra definition. It’s definitely had a bad rap over the last couple of years because the ingredients can be quite drying. However, many naturals still use this product because of it’s hold and versatility. There are many variations of Ecostyler gels but the Argan Oil version tops the range in our opinion. It’s not as drying as the Olive Oil version and doesn’t leave a white cast. 

    Best Gel 4c hair
    1. Camille Rose Naturals Curl Maker: 

    Another favourite amongst naturals, this gel is infused with marshmallow and agave extracts to provide moisture and enhance curl definition. It also has a lightweight formula that doesn’t weigh hair down making it perfect for low porosity naturals. It works best for Type 4A & 4B hair. 4C hair naturals can also use this gel but just be mindful you might not have the best hold. It’s one of the best gels for wash n go styles.

    Camille Rose Curl Maker
    1. Mielle Organics Honey & Ginger Styling Gel: 

    This gel is formulated with honey and ginger extracts to provide moisture and hold without flaking or leaving a white residue. It’s lightweight but also has a flexible hold. It’s great for twist-outs, braid-outs, and wash-and-go styles. The honey in the product acts as a natural humectant helping prevent dryness and lock in moisture. Can be used by any Type 4 texture.

    best gel 4c hair
    1. Wetline Xtreme Gel:

    This gel is perfect for type 4 girlies who are looking for a gel with a strong hold. One of its key features is its ability to resist humidity, making it an excellent choice of gel for 4C hair. This gel can be quite drying and doesn’t have enough moisturising benefits to keep your hair hydrated. However, if you need a product that’ll give you maximum hold then this is a product you’ll want to use. Just use sparingly and apply small amounts to minimise flakes and residue. Similarly to Ecostyle, it’s had mixed reviews in the natural hair community due to its ingredients. 

    Wetline Xtrreme
    1. Alikay Lemongrass Natural Styling Gel:

    Great for naturals who want a great hold without sacrificing hair health. The lemongrass extract is the secret ingredient in this product. Known for promoting scalp health and stimulating growth whilst giving your hair a natural shine. It’s not as popular as the other gels listed but many naturals have experienced a great hold with this product. It’s free from harsh chemicals making it a great natural hair gel for 4A, 4B & 4C hair.

    best gel 4c hair
    1. Curls Blueberry Bliss Control Jelly:

    Another gel known for its moisturising properties.The blueberry extract helps promote hair growth and scalp health. Blueberries are rich in vitamins and strengthen hair making this a healthy product.  The jelly texture provides excellent definition and hold for Type 4 hair, helping to enhance natural curl patterns and minimise frizz. It’s lightweight and doesn’t leave behind a sticky or crunchy residue, allowing for natural movement and bounce.

    best gel 4C hair
    1. Pattern Beauty Strong Hold Gel 

    One of the newer gels on the market and is becoming increasingly popular amongst the Type 4 girlies. It’s a gel that offers a strong hold for 4A, 4B & 4C girlies whilst providing you with moisturising benefits. It’s infused with Sea Moss, Aloe Vera & Chia Seeds which nourish and fortify coils. It has a long lasting hold which doesn’t flake. Some 4C girlies have reported this product has left flakiness and not necessarily had a long lasting hold. Although the product can be used on dry hair – its worth applying on damp hair and apply a scarf on top  to minimise flakiness and help it set.

    Pattern Beauty Stong Hold Gel
    1. Kinky Curly Curling Custard: 

    This gel is loved for its natural ingredients and ability to define curls without leaving them feeling crunchy or dry. It contains botanical extracts and agave nectar which keeps hair moisturised and hydrated whilst reducing frizz. It’s really known for its curl definition! It helps your curls and coils clump together whilst minimising shrinkage. Great for wash n go’s, twist outs and braid outs.

    best gel 4C hair

    FINDING THE RIGHT GEL TIP!

    Remember, finding the right gel will require some trial and error, but don’t be discouraged! Pay attention to how your hair responds to different products and ingredients, and don’t be afraid to mix and match to create your own perfect styling cocktail. If you have thick 4B or 4C hair then you’ll want to use a gel with a stronger hold. Alternatively, you can layer a lightweight gel with a stronger one to give you the right amount of hold.

    Best Gel for Sleek Ponytail on Natural Hair

    For a sleek ponytail style that lasts all day, you’ll want to use a gel with a strong hold. Unfortunately, these types of gels don’t have as many moisturising benefits but will definitely keep your hair intact for at least 24 hours to a couple of days. You’ll find more thickeners and polymers in these types of gels.

    Here are 4 gels known to work perfectly for sleek hairstyles:  

    1. Gummy Wax : 

    gummy wax

    Classed as a wax and not a gel but very popular for sleek hairstyles. It provides a firm hold which lasts and you don’t have to worry about your hair moving out of place during the day. Gummy wax is known for it’s matte finish and doesn’t leave your hair looking greasy. Plus you don’t get any white flakes with this product which is an added bonus.

    2. Got 2 B Glued Gel : 

    got2b ultra glued

    This gel has become extremely popular over the last couple of years due to its extreme hold. It’s water resistant making it ideal for humid environments and hotter climates. Regardless of if you’re sweating or come into contact with some rain – your hair will stay sleek. It’s not designed for Type 4 hair but reliable for sleek ponytail styles. This is a gel which works well for thicker/coarser 4B & 4C hair.

    3. Ecostyle (Argan Oil or Olive Oil) : 

    Best Gel 4c hair

    A popular gel in the natural hair community and gives a fantastic hold. Our preference is the Argan Oil version but you can also use the Olive Oil one too and get the same results. If you don’t mind a slight wave then spritz your hair with water before applying the gel. This makes the product easier to work into your hair and will reduce any flakiness once dry.

    4. Extreme Wetline Gel :

    Wetline Xtrreme

    The key benefit of this gel is it resists humidity making it great for sleek ponytail styles. Just be careful with how much you use to minimise flakiness and white residue. It’s got a really strong hold so a little goes a long way with this product. This is a great gel for 4C hair girlies with thick hair who want to achieve a super sleek look.

    SLEEK PONYTAIL TIP!

    For the best sleek results, apply a scarf on your hair immediately after your hair has been styled. This will give the gel time to dry and mould your flyaways for a long lasting hold. You can also use a hair dryer if you don’t have time and apply a hair spray for maximum hold. 

    Best Gel for Wash N Go 

    To achieve the best wash and go hair, you want to opt for lightweight gels that have a light to medium hold but also have moisturising benefits. Alot of the gels we’ve listed in the best gel for 4A, 4B, 4C hair are great for wash and go hair. We’ve listed the most popular ones below;

    1. Camille Rose Naturals Curl Maker:
    Camille Rose Curl Maker

    Defines curls and reduces frizz. A lightweight get that provides long-lasting hold without leaving a sticky residue.

    1. Kinky Curly Curling Custard:
    best gel 4C hair

    Defines curls and adds shine without weighing them down. Great for enhancing curl definition

    1. Uncle Funky’s Daughter Curly Magic Curl Stimulator:

    Not one we listed in the original list but is known for its ability to define curls whilst minimising shrinkage. Leaves curls feeling soft and bouncy. 

    OTHER GELS

    You can also use Ecostyle or Wetline Xtreme for thicker textures if the above gels are too lightweight for your hair.

    What are Botanical Gels? & Why is it important for coily hair? 

    Botanical gels are becoming increasingly popular due to it’s natural ingredients. They tend to be plant-based and water-soluble making it a better alternative for your scalp and hair health. The ingredients vary from product to product but are typically made from herbal extracts or humectants which prevent your hair from drying out.  Making them the perfect gel for wash and gos, twist outs and braid outs. 

    As the ingredients are natural, you’re not likely to have any flakiness or white residue. If you’re a natural who’s conscious about using natural ingredients then this is a great option. The only downside some Type 4 naturals have experienced is not having a long-lasting hold. So it you’re a 4B or 4C natural, this gel might not give you the best hold. You may need to layer it with another gel to give you that long lasting hold and definition.

    Here are list of some botanical gels :

    FAQ’s re; Hair Gels for Natural Hair

    1: Can I use gel on my natural hair everyday?

    Yes you can use gel on your hair daily. But be be mindful of how much you re-apply to minimise any build up and cast on your hair. The best way to top up your gel is to spritz your hair with water to reactivate the product. Then re-apply a minimal amount on top. Now this will depend on the hairstyle you’re wearing. For example if you’re wearing a wash n go or textured bun/ponytail then this will work. But if your hair is straightened then you’ll want to avoid water to prevent your curls reverting. In silk press cases – you may opt for an edge control or some holding spray to help your style last longer. Regarding edges, you can definitely re-apply the gel to the area daily. 

    You’ll know how your hair reacts to products so take that into consideration when deciding how often to top up your gel. Feel free to try other products such as mousses or holding spray if you want to tidy up your look. Always sleep with a scarf at night to keep your hair intact. 

    2: What’s the difference between hair gel and custard?

    Hair gel gives you a hold, keeps flyaways at bay and keeps your style in place. Custards are styling products designed to add definition to your coils and coils.  Gels can also define curls but may leave a slight crunch if you use it alone or apply too much. Custards on the other hand tend to have more moisturising benefits.

    You can definitely use them in conjunction by layering the products. The best way to layer your products is to apply your leave in first, followed by your custard and lastly your gel. Always do a test beforehand to make sure both products mix well together. 

    3: Which gel is best for laying edges?

    You can use any of the gels we listed above such as Ecostyler Argan Oil, Xteme Wetline Gel or Pattern Beauty hold gel to style edges or an edge control. Some people prefer to use an edge control such as Gummy Wax. The preference is really yours! 

    4: What is the difference between styling gel and edge gel?

    Styling gel tends to have a liquid base and moisturizing properties that create a film to hold in place without excessively drying it out. Whilst edge control tends to have a paste like texture. You’ll use styling gels to help add definition to your styles like a wash n go or a puff. Whilst an edge gel is purely for styling your edges. 

    To be honest – you can use styling gels to also style your edges – it just depends on if your preference. For instance, I use styling gel for my edges and overall hairstyle but will use edge when I’m wearing braids, cornrows or a sew in. 

    FINAL THOUGHTS 

    In conclusion, we trust this article has provided valuable insights and helped you discover quality gel products for your specific needs. Our focus on the best gels for 4A, 4B, and 4C hair, inspired by popular choices among Naturalistas. With countless options available, we invite you to share your favourite gels in the comments below. Your input not only enriches our community but also ensures no gem goes unnoticed. Let’s continue this haircare journey together!

    1.  The CG Method – Good Gel Ingredients : https://www.cgproducten.nl/en/blog/good-gel-ingredients ↩︎
  • Can sew-ins help you achieve your natural hair growth goals?

    Can sew-ins help you achieve your natural hair growth goals?

    Get ready to jump on the bandwagon because sew-ins are staging a triumphant comeback in the natural hair community, offering not just style but also promoting hair growth! Whilst traditional sew ins have been a trusted protective style for decades, they’ve also faced their fair share of challenges. Blending your leave-out seamlessly with your weave? Isn’t always a walk in the park. And let’s not even get started on the struggle of maintaining your natural hair’s health underneath your weave. With the hair industry stepping up its game and offering an array of extensions that match every Type 4 hair texture – from kinky to coily to curly – it’s no wonder sew-ins are reclaiming their throne.

    Now, you might be wondering, “How exactly can sew-ins help me reach my natural hair growth goals?” We’re here to spill the tea on all the pros, cons, and tips for caring for your natural hair whilst rocking a sew-in. So buckle up Naturalistas and keep reading for everything you need to know about sew-ins. It’s time to unravel the good/bad/ugly and figure out if this is the secret weapon your hair growth journey has been missing!

    4 Ways Sew-Ins Contribute to Hair Growth

    Sew ins can be potentially classed as a double protective style as your hair is cornrowed to your scalp with all your ends are tucked away and the weave is sewn on top. If installed and maintained correctly, you’ll experience hair growth and noticeable length retention when you finally remove your extensions. Protective styles are designed to promote hair growth by minimising daily styling, constant detangling and tugging on your hair. It also helps reduce damage from environmental factors and the use of excessive styling tools such as heat.

    Here are 4 main ways sew-ins contribute to natural hair growth: 

    1. Break from daily styling : 

    Doing the simplest things such as detangling, combing, pulling and tugging on your natural hair can have an impact on your hair growth. Sew-ins give you the option to give your hair a break from the stresses that come with daily styling whilst promoting hair growth.

    2. Reduction of breakage and split end : 

    Afro textured hair is extremely fragile, so keeping your hair in a cornrow based style leads to less breakage and split ends. This is because your ends are tucked away and won’t be rubbing on your clothes or exposed to harsh environmental factors.

    3. Supports length retention : 

    As your hands are out of your hair, you’re able to hold onto your new growth and minimise excessive shedding. When you take out your sew-in, you’ll notice a significant amount of length. That’s not because your hair hasn’t been growing at that rate all year round. But purely because you’ve left your hair alone during that period of time making the length more noticeable.

    4. Creates an environment for your hair to thrive : 

    Like it or not – leaving your hair alone and not constantly putting your hands in your hair helps your hair flourish. 

    Although we’ve mainly focussed on the benefits of sew-ins. It’s important to note that sew-ins can lead to damage if not installed correctly. Not having an effective maintenance routine to care for your natural hair underneath the sew in also has a part to play. If not careful, you’ll end up with your hair matting, tension along your hairline if it’s too tight and in some cases thinning. But don’t worry, we’ve got you covered with some tips to help you maintain your hair whilst wearing a sew in to stop the above from happening.

    sew in natural hair growth

    How much does hair grow with sew in?

    Your hair will grow at the same rate as it normally does. This is typically up to an inch per month depending on your hair growth cycle. However, you’re likely to see an increased amount of growth due to your hair being in a protective style. This will vary depending on your maintenance routine, lifestyle and diet. But trust us when we say sew-ins do contribute to natural hair growth!

    Let me share a personal experience to give you some insight: Normally, my hair grows about 0.5 inches per month. However, during a 2 and half stint of wearing a sew-in, I noticed an impressive inch of hair growth per month. How did this happen? Well, less shedding from daily styling certainly played a role, but more importantly, I gave my hair a break. I made sure to maintain its health by clarifying every 2 – 3 weeks, deep conditioning on wash days, and moisturising my cornrows regularly.

    Now, here’s the surprise: when I finally removed my cornrows, I was greeted with a lot of shedding. At first, this was a bit alarming. But then I remembered something crucial: hair sheds naturally, roughly 50 – 100 strands a day. So think about the shedding as trapped hair that’s been patiently waiting for its moment of freedom. So, when you unravel those cornrows, you’re simply setting them free.

    7 ways to maintain your natural hair whilst wearing a weave             

    Here are our top tips for maintaining your sew-ins and natural hair to help you achieve optimal hair growth.   

    1. Prep your hair :

    Prior to getting your hair installed. You want to ensure your hair is moisturised and hydrated. Start off with a moisturising shampoo and then follow up with a moisturising deep conditioner. When deep conditioning, use heat to ensure the product penetrates thoroughly through the hair shaft. Once dry – use the LOC or LCO method to seal in the moisture to support moisture retention. 

    2. Wash and Clarify your hair : 

    Even though your natural hair is tucked away. Your hair is still susceptible to build up so make sure you’re still washing your hair regularly to remove any build up. This can be done every 2 to 3 weeks. For easy penetration use products like Camille Rose Ginger Cleansing Rinse or Girl + Hair Apple Cider Vinegar Rinse which has a nozzle which gets right into the roots of your hair. If you’re still experiencing a significant amount of build up – use a clarifying shampoo like Aunt Jackie’s Power Wash which is great for removing buildup without stripping your scalp from natural oils.

    3. Treat your hair as you normally would: 

    Just because your hair is in a weave doesn’t mean you should skip your regular treatments. Incorporate them into your routine even if it’s once a month for that extra nourishment. It might be harder for your deep conditioning treatment to penetrate through the tracks so use a steam cap or handheld steamer. This will open up your cuticles and help the product penetrate through your hair shaft.

    4. Make sure your cornrows are fully dry after washing:

    Before you style your hair – make sure it’s completely dry!!! This avoids your hair having a damp mouldy smell but also necessary for scalp care. This is the one time where you’ll want to use heat on your hair. Use a blow dryer or hood dryer on a medium setting.  I like to use a hooded dryer attachment so I can sit back and relax without having achy arms. 

    5. Moisturise your hair regularly: 

    Moisturising is a key part of keeping your hair healthy so follow up with a leave-in conditioner after each wash. For easy penetration, use a leave-in spray or mix your leave-in with some water and spritz it across your cornrows. If you feel your hair is dry during the week, you can always re-spritz to rehydrate your hair.

    6. Use minimal heat on your leave out : 

    It’s okay to straighten your hair to blend with your extensions but straightening your hair everyday will lead to heat damage. Use heat every wash day and maintain it by wrapping your hair at night or using heat free tools like flexi rods. Purchasing extensions that match your hair texture will minimise the regular use of heat.

    7. Scalp Care: 

    Looking after your scalp is another important step to achieve optimal hair growth whilst wearing a sew in. If you’re prone to a dry scalp, make sure you oil your scalp at least once a week to eradicate excessive dryness. Be careful not to overload your scalp with oils, a little goes a long way. Or you can try a pomade like Keracare Dry & Itchy Scalp Glossifier.

    moisture for 4C hair

    Additional Tips to make the most of your natural hair growth whilst wearing a sew in 

    1. Make sure your hair isn’t too tight :

    To avoid hair loss and receding hairline, go to a stylist who isn’t too heavy handed and actually cares about natural hair. The worst thing is ending up with super tight cornrows and tracks. Speak up at your appointments if you feel your hair is too tight and set expectations before they start the process.

    2. Use a net for added protection :

    Getting a net installed on top of your cornrows will provide less tension when the tracks are being sewn on top. Plus, it’ll help your weave and cornrows stay intact when washing and cleansing your hair.

    3. Minimal leave out :

    The style of sew-in you choose will have an impact on how often you’ll need to blend your leave out. Opt for styles such as a full sew-in, closure sew-in, flip over method or minimal leave out to avoid over manipulating your hair daily. 

    4. Protect your edges :

    Your baby hairs are very fragile and delicate. So, take care of it by using water-based styling gels and moisturising it with leave-in conditioners. You can also use edge control but be mindful of build up and avoid using heated styling tools on a regular basis.

    5. Purchase a weave that matches your hair texture :

    This tip really speaks for itself. If you want to have less stress and not have to constantly straighten your hair to blend with a different texture than get kinky straight, kinky coily or kinky curly texture.

    6. Experiment with heat free tools :

     Using rollers, flexi rods or pillow curls will minimise the use of heat when styling your hair whilst giving you a nice stylish look. 

    How long does sew in last on natural hair? And How long should you wear it?

    Although, sew ins can last up to 3 months if properly maintained. You’ll want to stick to wearing it for a maximum of 8 weeks to prevent matting.  If your main goal for wearing sew-ins is to achieve optimal hair growth then stick to this rule! Some of the benefits for this are as follows; 

    • It’ll make it easier for you to loosen your cornrows and remove your tracks
    • Minimises the amount of detangling you’ll need to do and releases trapped shed dead hairs
    • Gives you an opportunity to properly clarify your hair and remove any build up that was trapped underneath your cornrows
    • Let’s your scalp breathe 

    FAQS re; Sew Ins

    1: Does weave damage your hair?

    No – weave doesn’t damage your hair. The improper installation and maintenance of weaves damage your hair. One of the fastest reasons for damage is the cornrows and tracks being sewn too tight, eventually pulling on the roots of your hair and scalp. If not careful this could lead to alopecia. 

    The second reason for damage is using excessive heat on your leave out to blend your hair. Make sure to use textures that blend with your hair and minimise heat use to wash days. In between wash days you can maintain your leave out by wrapping your hair at night or utilising rollers/flexi rods to keep your hair in a stretched state.

    Thirdly, go to a stylist who actually cares about natural hair and not just what the finished product will look like. If you feel your hair is too tight then speak up straight away. Don’t leave it till you’ve finished – that’s one thing we need to do more off rather than being upset when we get home.

    2: Sew in hair growth before and after

    Here are some videos of Naturalista’s on TikTok sharing their hair growth experiences from wearing a sew-in:

    @nataniacreates

    🫱🏼‍🫲🏿😌 best decision ever #naturalhair #sewin #torontosilkpress

    ♬ original sound – Urfav🤍
    @iamnurselana

    #question from @iamalaynab Who said sew -ins will not grow your hair fast! I am proof ! 3 months of sew-ins w/leave out & not touching or oiling my scalp in between got me here! I literally did nothing in between wash days ! #trusttheprocess #hairtok #blackhair #naturalhair #silkpress #hairgrowth #hairjourney #lendylux #fup #foryoupage #foryourpage #hairgrowth #fasthairgrowth #blackgirlhairgrowth

    ♬ Happy – DJ Keblinger$

    3: Are sew ins good for natural hair

    Yes! sew-ins are good for natural hair especially for length retention. Your hair is tucked away keeping it protected whilst wearing the style. Do sew-ins have disadvantages? Yes – they do if not properly maintained or installed too tight. But with the right maintenance techniques you shouldn’t experience any drawbacks on your natural hair when wearing a sew in.

    4: What are the disadvantages of sew in hair extensions

    Although sew-ins have many benefits and can contribute to natural hair growth goals. They also have their cons, see the list below;

    • Sew-in weaves can be damaging to your natural hair if not installed correctly from tight braids
    • Can cause scalp irritation so make sure you wash your natural hair and extensions prior to installation
    • Prolonged wear can lead to breakage and thinning. Stick to the 8 week rule to minimise this
    • Can be difficult to keep cornrows moisturised and hydrated whilst wearing them

    5: What is the most natural looking sew-in?

    The most natural looking sew in is the flip over method coined by one of the OG’s in the natural hair community – Ivy League Powell! This method requires minimal leave out, roughly an inch around the perimeter of your hairline and offers a seamless blend. It can be styled in a ponytail and the hair can be flipped into any direction.

    If you’re not up for dealing with leave out daily then you can also get a sew in with a closure. The tip to natural looking sew ins is the blend and quality of your hair extensions. There’s no point buying a brazilian straight if you have 4C hair because it won’t blend and even if it does on day one. It’ll quickly revert back!

    Curly sew-ins also offer a natural blend and are easy to style. Just be ready to maintain the weave by keeping the hair moisturised and detangling regularly as curly hair is prone to tangles. If you’re struggling to decide on what texture to purchase, read our article on Best Extensions for Type 4 Hair.

    FINAL THOUGHTS 

    We trust you’ve gained a clearer insight into how sew-ins can elevate your natural hair growth goals, along with valuable tips to ensure your hair remains healthy. While sew-ins do present certain drawbacks, they also offer numerous benefits that can accelerate your growth goals. The key lies in proper installation and a detailed maintenance routine. Once you’ve mastered these fundamentals, you’re bound to see remarkable results.

    We’re eager to hear about your personal experiences with sew-ins! Drop a comment below and share your stories with us. Let’s continue this conversation and empower each other on our hair care journey.

  • How to moisturize your 4C hair effectively?

    How to moisturize your 4C hair effectively?

    Getting the adequate amount of moisture into 4C hair can be challenging for many Naturals. Have you ever moisturized your hair and found it to still be dry and brittle? OR Do you struggle to find the right products to keep your hair hydrated? Well, you’re not alone! This is a problem many naturals face. As much as we love 4C hair, the extremely tight coil pattern makes it difficult for moisture to penetrate through leading to dryness and breakage. 

    We’ll be covering the importance of moisture for 4C hair and various techniques you should use to make sure your hair is fully hydrated at all times. Plus some product recommendations to help make moisturising easier to manage and not feel like a chore! If you’re struggling with moisture retention or want to combat dryness. Keep reading to learn more…

    Importance of keeping 4C hair Hydrated

    Moisture, moisture, moisture! We constantly bang on about it in the natural hair community. So you might be wondering – Why is moisture so important for 4C hair? There are a couple of factors that come to play here;

    1. 4C hair is unique and has a beautiful Z shape coil pattern. As the strands are tightly packed together, making it difficult for moisture to be distributed through the length of the hair
    2. It’s the most fragile of all the hair types making it prone to breakage and excessive shedding
    3. It has a difficult time holding onto to moisture leading to breakage

    But don’t be alarmed! There are multiple ways to combat dryness and give your hair the right amount of hydration it needs. With a little bit of TLC, using the right products and techniques. You’ll have fully moisturized 4C hair in no time and never have to deal with dry, brittle hair again.

    moisture for 4C hair

    8 Best ways to keep 4C hair moisturized for longer 

    Here are 8 techniques to try to get the right level of moisture into your 4C hair strands and keep your hair fully hydrated. 

    1. Spritz your hair regularly : 

    If you don’t have a spray bottle then now’s the time to invest in one. Spritzing your hair with a moisturizing mix is a quick fix for dry 4c hair seeking moisture. Using water alone will not keep your hair hydrated enough as water evaporates easily. You’ll need to mix it with a leave in-conditioner to help the strands stay moisturised. The added product works as an emollient which is a protective barrier that helps soften the hair and lock the moisture into your hair strands.

    How to create moisturzing spritz for 4C Hair?

    • Step 1 – Pour your favourite leave in conditioner into the spray bottle
    • Step 2 – Add water into the bottle 
    • Step 3 – Give it a good shake and voila your mixture is ready!
    • Bonus – add a couple drops of moisturizing oils into the mix for added hydration. Try avocado, olive or coconut oil. 

    2. Use the right moisturiser 

    This is where you’ll need to do a bit of homework. Unfortunately, not all products marketed to the coily and curly hair market contain the right ingredients. In fact some contain harmful ingredients so it’s important to get acquainted with ingredients that have a positive impact on your hair so you know which ones to use. This is a really important step of giving your 4C hair the moisture it craves for. 

    Use products with film-forming humectants which help retain water in your hair. These humectants have moisturising ingredients that create a clear, flexible film over your strands to help resist dehydration. Here are some examples of these humectants : 

    • Marshmallow Root
    • Flaxseed Gel
    • Aloe Vera
    • Slippery Elm
    • Pathenol
    • Hydroxyproplytrimonium Honey
    • Nettle Leaf tea or Nettle Extract 

    Don’t worry we’ve done some of the work for you. Check out our product recommendations below which contain some of these film-forming humectants.

    3. Use the LOC Method 

    I’m sure you’ve heard this term many times. The LOC method is a moisture retention technique used to keep hair hydrated for long periods of time and is perfect for 4C naturals who struggle to get moisture into their strands. LOC stands for liquid first, oil second and cream last. The oil and cream help seal the moisture into your hair shaft to stop it from evaporating quickly.

    If you’re a low porosity natural then you’ll want to use the LCO method. It’s pretty much the same thing but the second and third step swap places. Read our article on LOC VS LCO – Which method should you choose? to figure out what method to use. 

    4.Use Sulfate/Sulphate free shampoos 

    Sulfates/Sulphates are cleansing agents that strip your hair and scalp from its natural oils. They’re commonly found in shampoos and can have a detrimental effect on why your hair might be extremely dry. They’re great for removing product build up and may be found in clarifying shampoos but shouldn’t be used regularly. The regular use of sulfates/sulphates will strip 4C hair of the moisture it requires eventually leading to dry, brittle hair. 

    Use a moisturizing shampoo during your regular wash day routine and if you need to remove build up then try a clarifying shampoo that doesn’t contain sulfate/sulphates. The ingredient to keep an eye out for in shampoos is sodium lauryl sulfate – stay clear of any product that contains this. 

    5. Don’t skip deep conditioning treatments on Wash Day 

    Yes – wash days can be a long process from time to time but you can’t afford to skip your deep conditioning treatment if you have dry hair. Deep conditioning has many benefits for 4C hair but most importantly – it re-adds moisture that’s been lost. It helps your hair retain moisture and penetrates right through into your hair shafts. Making your hair stronger and preventing any unnecessary breakage. 

    Read our Deep Conditioning Guide for Type 4 Hair for more information and for some product recommendations. If you enjoy experimenting with DIY recipes then check out our article on easy homemade deep conditioners to try. 

    If you deep condition your hair regularly, you’ll start to see improvements in your hair’s health and its ability to retain moisture. 

    6. Invest in a Steamer 

    Using a steamer is a great way to get heat into your hair and open up your cuticles. Steamers can be quite costly depending on the product you purchase but you can also use a heated or steam cap and get the same results. Using steam is a quick and effective hack to help your 4C hair absorb moisture. Use steam when you’re deep conditioning or whenever your hair feels dry.

    7. Stay hydrated 

    This is a simple tip! One of the most effective ways to retain moisture is to stay hydrated by drinking your recommended daily water intake. Anything from 1.5 to 3 litres a day. Water helps hydrate your hair and follicles with the essential minerals it needs to thrive. Plus, you’ll get the added benefits in your overall health, nails and skin. 

    8. Keep up with your vitamins 

    Do you know vitamins contribute to your hair’s hydration? It’s something we recently learned and it’s really important to have the right level of nutrients for your skin, hair and scalp. The vitamin deficiencies that mainly affect your hair are Iron and Vitamin D. If you have low levels of iron and vitamin D, your hair texture can change leaving it feeling dry and brittle causing breakage. These vitamins contribute heavily to the hair growth cycle process and can be the difference between having healthy nourished hair strands or dry limp hair. 

    So if you’re anaemic it’s worth making sure you amp up your vitamin intake in this area. If you’re a 4C natural who’s followed multiple techniques and your hair stills feels dry then schedule a blood test and speak to your doctor about the results. If you’re deficient in iron – you’ll have low ferritin levels and if you score below 25 on the 25-hydroxy vitamin D then you have Vitamin D deficiency. 

    How often should you moisturize 4C hair

    On wash days, use the LOC or LCO method to moisturize your hair. Apply your leave in conditioner, then follow up with an oil and butter to seal in the moisture. Using this technique will help 4C hair stay moisturized for up to 7 days. However, depending on the level of dryness you’re experiencing and trying to combat. You might need to moisturize your hair more frequently. One way you can do this is spritzing your hair with a leave-in mixture and seal with a lightweight oil.

    One thing to bear in mind is the weather and climate of where you live will affect how often you moisturize your hair. For example, in the winter months – the weather can be harsher and affect your hydration levels. So you’ll need to moisturize your hair more regularly during those periods. 

    Observe how your hair reacts in different seasons and adjust your moisturizing regimen accordingly. You’ll probably end up moisturizing your hair more during colder and drier months.

    6 Moisturizing Products to Try for Type 4 Hair

    1. Camille Rose Naturals Curl Moisture Milk

    moisturizer for 4C hair

    Key Ingredients :

    • RICE MILK: Offers potent vitamins A, D, and B12 to promote healthy hair growth.
    • MACADAMIA SEED OIL : Seals hair strands to prevent breakage and thinning.
    • SLIPPERY ELM BARK : Softens and smooths the hair shaft for detangling benefits.

    2. Curlsmith Curl Conditioning oil-in-cream

    moisture for 4c hair

    Key Ingredients :

    • CARROT : Source of vitamins A, E and beta-carotene, which offer much needed moisture to dry scalp and hair
    • COCONUT: Helps seal the hair and reduces protein loss, keeping the hair healthier and more resistant against breakage
    • RESURRECTION FLOWER : Desert plant that survives up to 3 years without water, known for its moisture-retention properties

    3. Design Essentials Almond and Avocado Leave in Conditioner

    Key Ingredients :

    • ALMOND & AVOCADO provide intense moisture and hydration
    • SHEA BUTTER restores moisture and improves hair health for the inside out
    • COCONUT MILK replenishes moisture and aids as a natural detangler

    4. As I Am Double Butter Cream

    moisturizer for natural hair

    Key Ingredients : 

    • PRO VITAMIN B5 : Known as Panthenol, helps repair split ends and strengthen hair
    • SHEA BUTTER : Infused with vitamins that restore nourishment to dry and damaged hair
    • COCOA BUTTER : Repairs dry, damaged hair and prevents further damage by adding lubrication to the strands

    5.TGIN Butter Cream Daily Moisturizer

    moisturizer for natural hair
    • SHEA BUTTER: Infused with vitamins that restore nourishment to dry and damaged hair
    • COCOA BUTTER : repairs dry, damaged hair and prevents further damage by adding lubrication to the strands
    • VITAMIN E: Rich in vitamins and antioxidant properties to prevent breakage and improve the overall strength of your hair.

    6. Kinky Curly Knot Today Leave In Conditioner 

    moisture for 4C hair
    • MANGO : Rich in vitamin A and essential fatty acids which are essential for healthy hair growth. These fatty acids help to moisturise the scalp and hair, keeping them nourished. 
    • SLIPPERY ELM : Prevents water loss, injects moisture into hair and scalp.
    • MARSHMALLOW ROOT : Adds hydration and moisture to your hair whilst enhancing smoothness and shine

    FAQ’s

    1: How do I keep my 4C hair moist?

    To keep your 4C hair moist and hydrated for up to 7 days. Incorporate the following steps into your hair routine: 

    • Deep condition with a moisturizing treatment using heat & steam at least twice a month
    • Use the LOC or LCO method to lock moisture into your hair strands
    • Spritz your hair with a spray bottle every 3 to 4 days to rehydrate your hair
    • Sleep with a silk scarf or bonnet to stop your hair from drying out
    • Use products which have film forming humectants 

    Following these steps will minimise your hair from drying out and help you retain moisture in your 4C hair strands for longer. If you don’t already have a hair regimen then create one to help stay consistent with all the steps.

    2: Why is my 4c hair so dry and brittle?

    Many factors can contribute to dry hair so you need to reflect on what you’ve been doing to understand how to combat it. For example, Are you using heat on your hair regularly? Or do you bleach/dye your hair too often?

    Here are the main factors which contribute to dry hair;

    • Not using the right moisture retention techniques
    • Using products with harsh chemicals like sulfates/sulphates which dry out hair
    • Excessive use of heat
    • Constant bleaching and dyeing hair
    • Nutritional Deficiencies

    3: Is water alone enough to moisturize 4C Hair?

    No, water alone cannot moisturize your hair. Water is great for 4C hair as it makes your hair easier to work with. But should always be used with in an emollient if you want to hydrate your hair strands. Water evaporates easily but the emollient works to lock in moisture. Always use a leave in conditioner and/or moisturizing cream in addition to water. 

    4: Should I oil my 4C hair daily?

    We wouldn’t recommend oiling your 4C hair daily. Oils act as a sealant to lock in moisture and if you’re constantly using oils. You’ll end up locking out the moisture your hair needs. Always use oils as a last step to lock in moisture from your moisturizing products.

    5: Is it ok/better to air dry 4C hair?

    It’s absolutely fine to air dry 4C hair but make sure to dry it in a stretched state to minimise any tangling when it’s time to style your hair. Once you’ve finished washing your hair and applying your products. Separate your hair into 4 – 6 sections and twist or braid your hair while it dries. 

    Blow drying is also an effective way of drying your hair. If you’re worried about using heat regularly then blow dry on a low setting. Follow up on a high setting when your hair is roughly 80% dry. The method you choose really depends on your preference and your hair styling options for the week. If you’re only using heat on wash days then you won’t experience heat damage.

    FINAL THOUGHTS

    We hope you’ve learnt some effective techniques to keep your 4C hair moisturized. Incorporating some or all the techniques we mentioned will help you combat dry, brittle hair. You’ll start to notice a difference after a month. It’ll be a bit of trial and error in the beginning whilst figuring out what works for you but stick to it and you’ll see results. 

    What techniques do you find best for moisturizing your 4C Natural Hair? And What are your favourite products?

    Leave a comment and help a fellow Naturalista out.