NaturalistaVibes

Category: Natural Hair Growth

Blog posts focussed on natural hair growth to help you achieve your natural hair goals. Whilst learning to embrace every kink, coil and curl along the way. Your CROWN is beautiful regardless of it’s current length, enjoy the journey and trust the process!

  • Eradicate Split Ends: Your Ultimate Guide to Healthy Afro Hair

    Eradicate Split Ends: Your Ultimate Guide to Healthy Afro Hair

    Split ends are those pesky little buggers that can seriously sabotage your length retention goals. Unfortunately, on afro hair, split ends are harder to spot due to the natural coiling of our hair strands. Unless you frequently blow out your hair, you might not even notice them and mistakenly think your hair is healthy. But beneath those beautiful curls and coils,, you could have damaged, thinning ends!

    In this comprehensive guide, we’ll walk you through everything you need to know about split ends on afro hair—how to spot them, treat them, and prevent them. Say goodbye to split ends and hello to healthy, vibrant hair. Let’s dive in and discover the secrets to maintaining radiant, split-end-free afro hair!

    What are split ends? 

    If you’re experiencing split ends, you’re not alone! They’re caused from a variety of factors such styling, excessive use of heat, colour treatment and lack of moisture. Split ends are created from fibres breaking or splitting as a result of damage. They typically occur on the ends of your hair which is the weakest and most fragile because it’s the oldest part of your hair strands.

    Afro hair is naturally fragile and split ends are a sign the outer layer of your hair strands are damaged. Although, typically occur on your ends – they can easily appear on other sections of your hair and can travel upwards to to the rest of your hair shaft leading to breakage. 

    It has a detrimental impact on your hair strands if not treated quickly. Leaving your hair brittle, dry and frizzy. As afro hair shrinks and coils around each other easily – it makes it harder for you to spot the splits. In the moment, you might feel your hair isn’t growing but you’re likely to be losing more length then retaining it because your ends are splitting at a faster rate due to the damaged cuticles. 

    Split End Types

    Split End Chart

    How to identify if your afro hair has split ends?

    Spotting split ends on natural hair can be quite tough bearing in mind your hair strands shrink up to 70% of its length. If you’re a natural who doesn’t blow out or straighten their hair regularly, it’ll make it even harder for you to spot. Here are 5 signs to help you identify if your afro hair has split ends. 

    1. Your ends feel and appear thin
    2. Your ends are excessively dry and feel brittle 
    3. Hair snags and knots easily
    4. Detangling isn’t as smooth as it is normally and you find your hair is tangling easily 
    5. Your ends are uneven 

    How do I get rid of split ends in afro hair?

    Now you know how to identify split ends.You might be wondering, how do i get rid of split ends on my natural hair. The simplest answer is to get them trimmed and if your split ends have travelled quite far up the hair shaft then get a cut for a fresh start. If you’re not a fan of getting rid of your split ends in one go – you can gradually trim them over a 3 to 6 month period. Just remember, your hair health is more important than length so the sooner you snip them the better it is for your hair.

    It’s best to go to a professional instead of trimming your own hair but just be careful not to go to a scissor-happy stylist who may cut off more than is required. Do your research, watch instagram or tik tok videos to see if the stylist meets your expectations and go from there.

    If you prefer to get rid of your own split ends. Watch this step by step tutorial by Healthy Afro Hair.

    TIP : Purchase scissors specifically for hair so you don’t create any further damage.

    How to prevent split ends?

    Unfortunately split ends are inevitable and are likely pop up on your hair strands every couple of months. Here are 6 top ways to stay on top of them and prevent them from appearing on your afro hair.

    1. Stay on top of your trims :

    Aim to trim your hair every 3 months. You can stretch to 4 months if you prefer but just don’t go past that mark. Read our article on the benefits of trimming your natural hair for more insight.

    2. Moisture Moisture Moisture :

    We can’t stress enough how important moisture is to keep your hair afro hair hydrated to minimise breakage or split ends. You can utilise moisture in a variety of ways from using hair masks, deep conditioning treatments and moisture intense leave in-conditioners. 

    Read our post on Best Deep conditioners for Type 4 Hair and Easy Homemade Deep Conditioner recipes if you need some inspiration on what products to try!

    3. Protect Ends at Night :

    Sleep with a satin or silk scarf to prevent friction on your ends. For that added protection – get a silk pillowcase especially if your bonnet falls off at night.

    4. Protect your hair whilst using heat :

    Always use a heat protectant when styling with heat and minimise how often you use it. For instance, you don’t want to straighten your hair every day. If you’re rocking a straight silk press, wrap your hair at night and avoid re-pressing your hair. Read our article on Silk Press Tips to help you maintain your straightened hair. 

    5. Utilise protein treatments :

    These treatments strengthen your hair shaft and prevent splits. Be careful not to overload your hair with protein as it can make your hair brittle. If you’re a high porosity natural you can use it every 1 to 2 months AND low porosity naturals every 2 to 3 months. 

    6. Be careful when dyeing or colouring your hair :

    Unfortunately ​​Hair dye contains chemicals that can weaken and damage the hair shaft, leading to splits. Getting your hair dyed by a professional can ensure proper application and minimise damage. Use deep conditioning treatments and leave-in conditioners to keep hair hydrated.

    Best split end treatment for black hair 

    There are a variety of treatments on the market that help keep split ends at bay. These are temporary fixes and should not be used as a replacement to trimming your ends. However, they can be used as an aid to help prevent split ends whilst acting as an extra layer to seal your ends so they don’t fray easily.

    Here are 4 split end treatments that work well on afro textured hair. 

    1. Keratese Nutritive Split end treatment 
    Keratese Split End Serum

    The treatment is designed to treat and prevent splits by strengthening the hair fibres and sealing the ends. It contains plant based proteins, niacinamide and glycerin. Great for women who have curly, coily or damaged hair. 

    1. Amika Instant Repair Cream
    afro hair split end cream

    A lightweights 2 in 1 cream which treats split ends and repairs damaged hair. The product claims to seal 96% of split ends due to its bond curing technology. It’s a versatile product which can be used as a styling cream or a leave in treatment

    1. Moroccan Oil Mending Fusion
    Split end treatment black hair

    This treatment is great for anyone looking to repair, prevent and strengthen their split ends. It’s infused with argan oil and enriched with a blend of vitamins and quinoa proteins making it a natural alternative. 

    1. Deva Curl Re-Coiling split end treatment
    afro hair split end treatment

    Designed specifically for curly hair – this product repairs split ends. It uses an advanced technology to repair existing damage and prevent future damage by re-linking the broken bonds. It’s silicone and paraben free, created with the support of dermatologists. 

    FAQ’s re; Split Ends

    1: Why does my afro hair keep breaking and How to stop afro hair from breaking?

    Your afro hair is breaking due to something in your hair routine. There are many factors that contribute to breakage such as lack of moisture, detangling on dry hair, not using the right products, tight hairstyles, diet and not using the right styling tools. As 4A, 4B and 4C hair strands are quite fine in nature. There are various elements you’ll need to incorporate into your natural hair routine to keep your hair healthy and eliminate breakage. Aside from staying on top of your trims and keeping split ends at bay. Here are 6 key TIPs you can incorporate into your hair regimen:

    • Incorporate moisture retention techniques such as the LOC or LCO method.
    • Don’t use products with harsh ingredients – opt for silicone and sulphate free products.
    • Incorporate treatments such as deep conditioning and hair masks
    • Utilise steam to open your hair cuticles and ensure moisture penetrates through the hair shaft
    • Detangle on damp hair and use a product with a great slip 
    • Be careful with protective styling : Make sure your hair isn’t too tight and create a haircare routine whilst wearing these styles. This should include cleansing your scalp and getting the adequate amount of moisture into the hair strands

    Here are some post you might find helpful for protective styling 👍

    The truth about braids for hair growth and length retention

    Mini Twists : The Ultimate style for retention and hair growth

    Can sew-ins contribute to natural hair growth?

    How to rock clip in extensions on Type 4 hair?

    2: Why does black hair break so easily?

    Unfortunately due to the nature of our coil and curl structure, afro type 4 hair has the tendency to break easily. However, bearing that in mind – the main culprit for breakage is dryness, lack of moisture and manipulation from daily styling which is why it’s important to treat your hair with TLC. 

    If you’re experiencing excessive breakage, a quick fix is to incorporate moisture retention techniques such as the LOC or LCO to increase hydration into your hair strands to help with elasticity whilst strengthening your hair strands. 

    If your breakage is due to a change in your hair routine i.e. a chemical treatment, excessive heat or bleaching. Then STOP now, the best way to eliminate breakage is to identify the route cause and tackle it straight away. 

    3: How to tell if afro hair is damaged?

    A quick tell-tell sign of damaged afro hair is the change in texture. If your hair feels extremely dry and brittle then it’s an early warning sign your hair is damaged. If not careful, this could lead to breakage – you may need to review the products you’re using to ensure they have moisturising properties such as film-forming humectants to ensure your hair cuticles are actually being nourished.

    Another sign of damage is if your curl or coil pattern is straight and doesn’t revert back. Let’s say you had a silk press or recently bleached your hair. Your coil pattern should return back to normal. If it remains straight then you’ve experienced some form of damage within the hair cuticle itself and the only way to get rid of it is by cutting the dead hair.

    If you’re experiencing excessive frizz in comparison to normal. Then you probably have some form of damage – afro hair is naturally frizzy but if your frizz is out of control then this is a sign your cuticles are raised and having difficulty retaining moisture. 

    4: Can damaged afro hair be repaired?

    With the right level of TLC, you can nurse your damaged afro back to health. You’ll need to utilise treatments such as moisture rich deep conditioning masks and/or protein treatments depending on the level of damage. If your ends are completely damaged – you’ll need to start with a fresh cut to give you the best possible chance of reviving your hair health. 

    You’ll need to cut back on the things that led to the damage in the first place such as using excessive heat, bleaching hair, tight hairstyles etc. 

    If you’re on the hunt for what treatments to use, read the following articles:

    8 Deep Conditioning Treatments for 4A, 4B & 4C Hair

    Easy Homemade Deep Conditioners To Try for Natural Hair

    5: Does split ends stop hair growth?

    Split ends does not stop the rate of growth from your scalp but can hinder your length retention goals. Depending on how high the split ends have travelled up the hair shaft – your hair will start breaking. Making it appear like your hair is not growing. But instead it’s breaking off at a faster rate than it’s actually growing.

    FINAL THOUGHTS 

    Dealing with split ends on afro hair can be challenging, but with the right knowledge and care, you can maintain healthy, vibrant hair. This guide has covered how to identify split ends, methods to treat them, and preventive measures to keep your hair in top condition. Remember:

    • Identify Split Ends: Look for signs like thin, dry, brittle ends and increased tangling.
    • Treat Split Ends: Trim them regularly, preferably with the help of a professional, and consider using targeted split end treatments.
    • Prevent Split Ends: Keep your hair moisturised, protect it from heat and friction, and handle it gently.

    Split ends are a natural part of hair wear and tear, but with these tips, you can minimise their impact and keep your afro hair healthy and strong. If you notice an increase in split ends and breakage after changing your hair care routine, stop using the new product or method immediately and switch to one that supports your hair’s health.

    We hope you found this guide helpful and informative. For more tips and product recommendations, check out our related articles on deep conditioning treatments, protective styling, and more.

  • Can sew-ins help you achieve your natural hair growth goals?

    Can sew-ins help you achieve your natural hair growth goals?

    Get ready to jump on the bandwagon because sew-ins are staging a triumphant comeback in the natural hair community, offering not just style but also promoting hair growth! Whilst traditional sew ins have been a trusted protective style for decades, they’ve also faced their fair share of challenges. Blending your leave-out seamlessly with your weave? Isn’t always a walk in the park. And let’s not even get started on the struggle of maintaining your natural hair’s health underneath your weave. With the hair industry stepping up its game and offering an array of extensions that match every Type 4 hair texture – from kinky to coily to curly – it’s no wonder sew-ins are reclaiming their throne.

    Now, you might be wondering, “How exactly can sew-ins help me reach my natural hair growth goals?” We’re here to spill the tea on all the pros, cons, and tips for caring for your natural hair whilst rocking a sew-in. So buckle up Naturalistas and keep reading for everything you need to know about sew-ins. It’s time to unravel the good/bad/ugly and figure out if this is the secret weapon your hair growth journey has been missing!

    4 Ways Sew-Ins Contribute to Hair Growth

    Sew ins can be potentially classed as a double protective style as your hair is cornrowed to your scalp with all your ends are tucked away and the weave is sewn on top. If installed and maintained correctly, you’ll experience hair growth and noticeable length retention when you finally remove your extensions. Protective styles are designed to promote hair growth by minimising daily styling, constant detangling and tugging on your hair. It also helps reduce damage from environmental factors and the use of excessive styling tools such as heat.

    Here are 4 main ways sew-ins contribute to natural hair growth: 

    1. Break from daily styling : 

    Doing the simplest things such as detangling, combing, pulling and tugging on your natural hair can have an impact on your hair growth. Sew-ins give you the option to give your hair a break from the stresses that come with daily styling whilst promoting hair growth.

    2. Reduction of breakage and split end : 

    Afro textured hair is extremely fragile, so keeping your hair in a cornrow based style leads to less breakage and split ends. This is because your ends are tucked away and won’t be rubbing on your clothes or exposed to harsh environmental factors.

    3. Supports length retention : 

    As your hands are out of your hair, you’re able to hold onto your new growth and minimise excessive shedding. When you take out your sew-in, you’ll notice a significant amount of length. That’s not because your hair hasn’t been growing at that rate all year round. But purely because you’ve left your hair alone during that period of time making the length more noticeable.

    4. Creates an environment for your hair to thrive : 

    Like it or not – leaving your hair alone and not constantly putting your hands in your hair helps your hair flourish. 

    Although we’ve mainly focussed on the benefits of sew-ins. It’s important to note that sew-ins can lead to damage if not installed correctly. Not having an effective maintenance routine to care for your natural hair underneath the sew in also has a part to play. If not careful, you’ll end up with your hair matting, tension along your hairline if it’s too tight and in some cases thinning. But don’t worry, we’ve got you covered with some tips to help you maintain your hair whilst wearing a sew in to stop the above from happening.

    sew in natural hair growth

    How much does hair grow with sew in?

    Your hair will grow at the same rate as it normally does. This is typically up to an inch per month depending on your hair growth cycle. However, you’re likely to see an increased amount of growth due to your hair being in a protective style. This will vary depending on your maintenance routine, lifestyle and diet. But trust us when we say sew-ins do contribute to natural hair growth!

    Let me share a personal experience to give you some insight: Normally, my hair grows about 0.5 inches per month. However, during a 2 and half stint of wearing a sew-in, I noticed an impressive inch of hair growth per month. How did this happen? Well, less shedding from daily styling certainly played a role, but more importantly, I gave my hair a break. I made sure to maintain its health by clarifying every 2 – 3 weeks, deep conditioning on wash days, and moisturising my cornrows regularly.

    Now, here’s the surprise: when I finally removed my cornrows, I was greeted with a lot of shedding. At first, this was a bit alarming. But then I remembered something crucial: hair sheds naturally, roughly 50 – 100 strands a day. So think about the shedding as trapped hair that’s been patiently waiting for its moment of freedom. So, when you unravel those cornrows, you’re simply setting them free.

    7 ways to maintain your natural hair whilst wearing a weave             

    Here are our top tips for maintaining your sew-ins and natural hair to help you achieve optimal hair growth.   

    1. Prep your hair :

    Prior to getting your hair installed. You want to ensure your hair is moisturised and hydrated. Start off with a moisturising shampoo and then follow up with a moisturising deep conditioner. When deep conditioning, use heat to ensure the product penetrates thoroughly through the hair shaft. Once dry – use the LOC or LCO method to seal in the moisture to support moisture retention. 

    2. Wash and Clarify your hair : 

    Even though your natural hair is tucked away. Your hair is still susceptible to build up so make sure you’re still washing your hair regularly to remove any build up. This can be done every 2 to 3 weeks. For easy penetration use products like Camille Rose Ginger Cleansing Rinse or Girl + Hair Apple Cider Vinegar Rinse which has a nozzle which gets right into the roots of your hair. If you’re still experiencing a significant amount of build up – use a clarifying shampoo like Aunt Jackie’s Power Wash which is great for removing buildup without stripping your scalp from natural oils.

    3. Treat your hair as you normally would: 

    Just because your hair is in a weave doesn’t mean you should skip your regular treatments. Incorporate them into your routine even if it’s once a month for that extra nourishment. It might be harder for your deep conditioning treatment to penetrate through the tracks so use a steam cap or handheld steamer. This will open up your cuticles and help the product penetrate through your hair shaft.

    4. Make sure your cornrows are fully dry after washing:

    Before you style your hair – make sure it’s completely dry!!! This avoids your hair having a damp mouldy smell but also necessary for scalp care. This is the one time where you’ll want to use heat on your hair. Use a blow dryer or hood dryer on a medium setting.  I like to use a hooded dryer attachment so I can sit back and relax without having achy arms. 

    5. Moisturise your hair regularly: 

    Moisturising is a key part of keeping your hair healthy so follow up with a leave-in conditioner after each wash. For easy penetration, use a leave-in spray or mix your leave-in with some water and spritz it across your cornrows. If you feel your hair is dry during the week, you can always re-spritz to rehydrate your hair.

    6. Use minimal heat on your leave out : 

    It’s okay to straighten your hair to blend with your extensions but straightening your hair everyday will lead to heat damage. Use heat every wash day and maintain it by wrapping your hair at night or using heat free tools like flexi rods. Purchasing extensions that match your hair texture will minimise the regular use of heat.

    7. Scalp Care: 

    Looking after your scalp is another important step to achieve optimal hair growth whilst wearing a sew in. If you’re prone to a dry scalp, make sure you oil your scalp at least once a week to eradicate excessive dryness. Be careful not to overload your scalp with oils, a little goes a long way. Or you can try a pomade like Keracare Dry & Itchy Scalp Glossifier.

    moisture for 4C hair

    Additional Tips to make the most of your natural hair growth whilst wearing a sew in 

    1. Make sure your hair isn’t too tight :

    To avoid hair loss and receding hairline, go to a stylist who isn’t too heavy handed and actually cares about natural hair. The worst thing is ending up with super tight cornrows and tracks. Speak up at your appointments if you feel your hair is too tight and set expectations before they start the process.

    2. Use a net for added protection :

    Getting a net installed on top of your cornrows will provide less tension when the tracks are being sewn on top. Plus, it’ll help your weave and cornrows stay intact when washing and cleansing your hair.

    3. Minimal leave out :

    The style of sew-in you choose will have an impact on how often you’ll need to blend your leave out. Opt for styles such as a full sew-in, closure sew-in, flip over method or minimal leave out to avoid over manipulating your hair daily. 

    4. Protect your edges :

    Your baby hairs are very fragile and delicate. So, take care of it by using water-based styling gels and moisturising it with leave-in conditioners. You can also use edge control but be mindful of build up and avoid using heated styling tools on a regular basis.

    5. Purchase a weave that matches your hair texture :

    This tip really speaks for itself. If you want to have less stress and not have to constantly straighten your hair to blend with a different texture than get kinky straight, kinky coily or kinky curly texture.

    6. Experiment with heat free tools :

     Using rollers, flexi rods or pillow curls will minimise the use of heat when styling your hair whilst giving you a nice stylish look. 

    How long does sew in last on natural hair? And How long should you wear it?

    Although, sew ins can last up to 3 months if properly maintained. You’ll want to stick to wearing it for a maximum of 8 weeks to prevent matting.  If your main goal for wearing sew-ins is to achieve optimal hair growth then stick to this rule! Some of the benefits for this are as follows; 

    • It’ll make it easier for you to loosen your cornrows and remove your tracks
    • Minimises the amount of detangling you’ll need to do and releases trapped shed dead hairs
    • Gives you an opportunity to properly clarify your hair and remove any build up that was trapped underneath your cornrows
    • Let’s your scalp breathe 

    FAQS re; Sew Ins

    1: Does weave damage your hair?

    No – weave doesn’t damage your hair. The improper installation and maintenance of weaves damage your hair. One of the fastest reasons for damage is the cornrows and tracks being sewn too tight, eventually pulling on the roots of your hair and scalp. If not careful this could lead to alopecia. 

    The second reason for damage is using excessive heat on your leave out to blend your hair. Make sure to use textures that blend with your hair and minimise heat use to wash days. In between wash days you can maintain your leave out by wrapping your hair at night or utilising rollers/flexi rods to keep your hair in a stretched state.

    Thirdly, go to a stylist who actually cares about natural hair and not just what the finished product will look like. If you feel your hair is too tight then speak up straight away. Don’t leave it till you’ve finished – that’s one thing we need to do more off rather than being upset when we get home.

    2: Sew in hair growth before and after

    Here are some videos of Naturalista’s on TikTok sharing their hair growth experiences from wearing a sew-in:

    @nataniacreates

    🫱🏼‍🫲🏿😌 best decision ever #naturalhair #sewin #torontosilkpress

    ♬ original sound – Urfav🤍
    @iamnurselana

    #question from @iamalaynab Who said sew -ins will not grow your hair fast! I am proof ! 3 months of sew-ins w/leave out & not touching or oiling my scalp in between got me here! I literally did nothing in between wash days ! #trusttheprocess #hairtok #blackhair #naturalhair #silkpress #hairgrowth #hairjourney #lendylux #fup #foryoupage #foryourpage #hairgrowth #fasthairgrowth #blackgirlhairgrowth

    ♬ Happy – DJ Keblinger$

    3: Are sew ins good for natural hair

    Yes! sew-ins are good for natural hair especially for length retention. Your hair is tucked away keeping it protected whilst wearing the style. Do sew-ins have disadvantages? Yes – they do if not properly maintained or installed too tight. But with the right maintenance techniques you shouldn’t experience any drawbacks on your natural hair when wearing a sew in.

    4: What are the disadvantages of sew in hair extensions

    Although sew-ins have many benefits and can contribute to natural hair growth goals. They also have their cons, see the list below;

    • Sew-in weaves can be damaging to your natural hair if not installed correctly from tight braids
    • Can cause scalp irritation so make sure you wash your natural hair and extensions prior to installation
    • Prolonged wear can lead to breakage and thinning. Stick to the 8 week rule to minimise this
    • Can be difficult to keep cornrows moisturised and hydrated whilst wearing them

    5: What is the most natural looking sew-in?

    The most natural looking sew in is the flip over method coined by one of the OG’s in the natural hair community – Ivy League Powell! This method requires minimal leave out, roughly an inch around the perimeter of your hairline and offers a seamless blend. It can be styled in a ponytail and the hair can be flipped into any direction.

    If you’re not up for dealing with leave out daily then you can also get a sew in with a closure. The tip to natural looking sew ins is the blend and quality of your hair extensions. There’s no point buying a brazilian straight if you have 4C hair because it won’t blend and even if it does on day one. It’ll quickly revert back!

    Curly sew-ins also offer a natural blend and are easy to style. Just be ready to maintain the weave by keeping the hair moisturised and detangling regularly as curly hair is prone to tangles. If you’re struggling to decide on what texture to purchase, read our article on Best Extensions for Type 4 Hair.

    FINAL THOUGHTS 

    We trust you’ve gained a clearer insight into how sew-ins can elevate your natural hair growth goals, along with valuable tips to ensure your hair remains healthy. While sew-ins do present certain drawbacks, they also offer numerous benefits that can accelerate your growth goals. The key lies in proper installation and a detailed maintenance routine. Once you’ve mastered these fundamentals, you’re bound to see remarkable results.

    We’re eager to hear about your personal experiences with sew-ins! Drop a comment below and share your stories with us. Let’s continue this conversation and empower each other on our hair care journey.

  • 15 Hair Growth Tips For 4C Natural Hair

    15 Hair Growth Tips For 4C Natural Hair

    Out of all the Type 4 hair types, 4C hair is known to be the tightest and coarsest out of all the afro hair textures. The curl pattern is quite unique and made out of really tight zig-zag curls and coils which are closely packed together. 4C Hair is probably the most popular hair type for most Naturalistas and sometimes comes with its challenges when on a hair growth journey. This is due to the amount of shrinkage you’ll experience with this curl type. Despite its challenges – the texture it’s absolutely gorgeous and with the right hair maintenance routine and TLC – you’ll begin to love your 4C hair more and more.

    There’s a misconception that 4C Hair can’t grow but we’re here to dispel that myth with 15 tips to help you make the most of your hair 4C hair growth journey whilst falling in love with your texture at the same time. 

    Characteristics of 4C Natural Hair

    4C and 4B hair can be easily confused due to the similarities of their coil patterns. If you’re unsure if you have 4C hair – here are some characteristics to help you figure it out.

    • Tight Z shaped pattern
    • Coily hair texture
    • Significant shrinkage, up to 70% of your stretched 
    • Strands clump together
    • Thick and coarse hair (although it’s also possible to have fine 4c hair) 
    • Prone to tangles and breakage
    Source : GIPHY

    NOTE : It’s definitely possible to have multiple textures. For instance I have a mix of 4B and 4C hair strands but one texture is likely to outweigh the other.

    15 4C Natural Hair Growth Tips to Try

    1.Detangle with care

    This is the stage where you’re likely to lose most of your new hair growth and length. Especially if you don’t exercise patience and use some TLC. The 4C hair texture is prone to tangling and knots so using the right technique and products is the best way to minimise any hair loss you’ve worked so hard to grow and retain. Here are some detangling tips to follow:

    • Spritz your hair with water to make it easier to work with
    • Finger detangle first before using detangling tools
    • Use the right detangling tool such as a wide tooth comb. Be careful with detangling brushes, sometimes they can rip out more hair then intended. You can always use a flexi detangling brush which glides with the direction of your hair
    • Use a detangler to give you extra slip. If you don’t have a detangler then use conditioner
    • Always works in sections – ideally 4 but if you have shorter hair then 6 to 8 
    moisture for 4C hair
    Source : Pexels

    2. Dry hair in stretched state

    This is KEY.  4C hair shrinks up to 70% of its stretched state so it’s important to dry hair stretched to minimise further pulling and tugging when it’s time to style your hair. Some benefits of working on stretched hair are as follows:

    • You can track your hair growth better
    • Minimises knots and tangles 
    • Minimises over manipulation from detangling 
    • Easier to work with 

    3. Moisture, moisture and more moisture

    We’ve all heard moisture is key to retain length for Type 4 hair textures. As 4C hair is naturally dry – you  want to spend more time moisturising your hair to prevent breakage tangles and knots. Ideally you’ll want to use a method that helps lock in the moisture for longer such as the LOC or LCO method. Your hair porosity will determine which method is better, click here to read our post on Hair Porosity which gives you a breakdown on how to do a porosity test!

    4. Scalp massages

    “Research conducted back in 2016 and 2019 found that regular scalp massages led to thicker hair strands. The study was conducted on 9 men who spent 4 mins a day massaging their scalp over a 24 week period. The results found a significant increase in hair thickness at the 24 week mark compared to when they initially started.”1

    Scalp massages are known to increase the blood flow into your hair follicles supporting you to achieve hair growth goals. Although it might be difficult to do this daily, you’ll want to incorporate it into your routine at least a couple times a week. You can use your finger tips or purchase a head massager. If you’d like to take this a step further then you can massage your scalp with a growth oil. The length of time you spend massaging your scalp also has a part to play. To increase the blood flowing to your follicles do it for at least 5 minutes for optimal results. 

    Source : GIPHY

    5. Heat is not the enemy

    We’ve all heard not to use heat as it damages hair but the truth is heat is not the enemy. Excessive heat styling is the enemy!  As 4C hair is fine and can break easily – you’ll definitely want to minimise the amount of times you heat but there is no harm in using it on wash days. Specifically blow drying your hair on a low heat setting to get it fully stretched. You’ll want to limit your heat usage to once or twice a month and use a heat protectant. Don’t be heavy handed when blow drying. There are a lot of straight naturals whose hair are thriving from using heat in moderation. It’s all about how you maintain the style and do not go back in to blow dry or straighten everyday. 

    I recently received some feedback from my hairstylist who recommended I use heat to blow dry my hair as I wasn’t retaining enough of my new  growth with my regular air drying method. I usually air dry with twists but it shrinks in a shrunken state which leads to me having to spend more time detangling when styling my hair leading to more hair loss. I’ve noticed my hair is a lot easier to style once dry. If you’ll be using a blow dry I recommend doing it once or twice a month on a low setting and you can follow up with higher heat setting for a short while to minimise your heat usage. 

    6. Protective styling 

    This is key for retaining your length. Protective styles help keep your ends tucked away and minimises over manipulation from daily styling. The great thing about these styles is there are multiple options available depending on your preference. To make the most of your 4C Natural hair growth,  it’s best to opt for cornrow based hair styles if possible as your hair is completely protected underneath. Styles such as sew-ins,  cornrows with or without braiding hair and crochet braids are some fan favourites. If you prefer other styles, you can try the following;

    • Braids (avoid medium sized braids) 
    • Mini Twists (with or without extensions) 
    • Bantu knots
    • Flat Twists
    • African Threading 
    Source : Pexels

    Regardless of the style you choose, don’t keep your style in for longer than 8 weeks! Have you ever worn a protective style for too long and noticed build up, dryness and difficulty detangling your hair? Well that’s because you’ve kept the style in for too long and probably didn’t have a natural hair care routine whilst wearing the style. As most protective styles utilise some form of extensions – you want to ensure you’re not wearing them for too long so it’s not adding tension to your hairline but also give you an opportunity to fully cleanse your hair and get rid of dead hair that has been trapped in the style.

    7. Create a protective styling regimen

    Protective styling doesn’t mean you shouldn’t wash or cleanse your hair. In fact, for 4C natural hair to grow – it’s important to have a clean scalp so your hair can thrive. Adopting little things such as moisturising regularly, washing your scalp and sealing your hair with an oil prevents your hair from drying out and helps your hair remain healthy. Depending on the style you choose, you’re likely to have different maintenance routine but here are a couple options you can adopt to help you out:

    1. Wash hair at least every 3 to 4 weeks
    2. Spritz hair with a leave-in conditioner at least once a week and seal with an oil. If you have a cream based leave in conditioner, you can mix it with water in a spray bottle to create a liquid mixture
    3. Use a growth oil but be careful not clog up your follicles. Your scalp naturally produces oils so you don’t want to be too heavy handed with the amount you apply. Start with once a week and then decide if you should do it more or less depending on your hair needs. Also, make sure you massage the oil into your scalp
    4. Take extra care with your edges. If you feel the style is adding too much tension to your hairline then it’s best to take it out to minimise any damage.

    8. Take a break in between protective styling

    Doing the same protective styling back to back is not the best way to achieve hair growth. You want to give your hair a break in between styles and let your scalp breath. Although protective styling is great for hair retention and hair growth, most of the styles add tension to your hairline which will make it slightly fragile. Opt for different styles in between the breaks such as buns, twist outs and braid outs to give your hair a break prior to installing your next style.

    Source : Unsplash

    10. Cleansing routine

    Wash days can be a pain at times but it’s important to have a clean scalp for your 4C hair to grow. Unfortunately the myth of dirty hair helping hair grow isn’t true! Think about it like this – you won’t go days without washing your face because it’ll lead to clogged up pores, irritation and you’ll eventually end up with pimples and spots. Well the same applies to your hair. If you spend so much attention and care on your skin regimen then you need to do the same for your scalp. Dirt clogs up hair follicles, leads to itchiness and irritation – you want to make sure your scalp and hair is in the best condition to create an environment for your hair to thrive.

    9. Trim ends regularly 

    Don’t skip trimming your ends! It’s as simple as that! Try and trim your hair every 12 weeks. If your hair is already damaged you might do it a bit more regularly such as the 8 – 10 week mark to get rid of any split ends and damage sooner. If your hair is healthy and you’ll like to stretch your trims a bit longer then don’t go past the 16 week mark. You’ll figure out what works best for you once you start incorporating trims into your regimen. Read our article on the benefits of trimming for length retention to learn more.

    11. Don’t be a product junkie

    We’ve all been guilty of doing this at one point during our natural hair journey. Trust me I’ve been there – buying things because one Naturalista says it works for them, you try it and don’t have the same results and then it sits on the shelf for years. When choosing products, try products that are recommended from other 4C Naturalistas. If possible purchase a tester bottle or the smallest size to see how your hair reacts. Pay attention to whether the products you’re using cause more drying or excessive build up to know if you should continue or not.

    One of the things that was a game changer for me was paying attention to how my hair reacted to products after I used it to decide if I should continue or not. There are so many options on the market, you’ll find something that works for you. Once you do, stick to it and you’ll begin to see a difference.

    Natural Hair Growth / Natural Hair Products
    Source : iStock by GettyImages

    12. Deep conditioning treatments

    4C hair benefits a lot from deep conditioning due to the coil pattern drying out easily. They add extra nourishment and hydration to your hair whilst strengthening your hair cuticles. Definitely apply heat when doing the treatment to help the product penetrate deep into your hair shaft. Do this at least once a month and to get the full benefits. Read our guide on deep conditioning for type 4 hair and if you’re interested in DIY recipes then check out this article on homemade deep conditioners to try for natural hair. 

    13. Make sure hair isn’t too tight

    As you’ll be wearing protective styles regularly to retain length, you want to make sure your hairstyle isn’t too tight. Especially when wearing buns and ponytail styles. Speak up during your appointments when getting braids or twists – if the stylist is braiding too tightly tell them right away instead of waiting to the end. You want to avoid any excessive tension that will lead to hair loss and eventually lead to alopecia. This is why cornrow based protective styles tend to be a better option for hair growth.

    15. Pay attention to your scalp

    We regularly ignore our scalp in comparison to our hair. 4C hair growth begins at the scalp as that’s where the follicles are based so it’s important to pay attention to your scalp and assess it. If you experience excessive itchiness, dryness or flakes then it might be worth doing a scalp treatment to help eradicate the problem. There are multiple scalp treatments on the market so do your research and if you’re unsure then go to a natural hair salon who specialises in type 4 hair who can give you some advice on what treatment to try.

    14. Protect your hair at night

    This is a golden rule, sleep with a silk or satin scarf AND/OR bonnet. If you struggle with your scarf staying on all night then you can purchase a silk or satin pillowcase for added protection. Cotton pillowcases are known for drying out hair whilst silk pillowcases help keep moisture in your coils/curls for longer. Satin pillowcases too, tend to be significantly cheaper than silk but it won’t retain moisture as well as silk. 

    Silk / Satin
    Source : Pexels

    Bonus tip – Diet and Health!

    It’s always good to maintain a good diet, you want to ensure you’re nourished from the inside out. Eating a balanced diet of healthy foods such as vegetables, lean meats and fish will contribute to you achieving your 4C natural hair growth goals. Hair is made of protein and for your 4C natural hair to thrive you need a balance of protein and moisture. Increasing your protein intake can contribute to hair growth and healthy hair. 

    FAQS

    1: What helps 4C hair grow faster?

    Hair growth begins with your scalp and various factors can contribute to how fast it grows such as genetics, eating habits and supplements. As a result, some 4C Naturals hair will grow faster than others. The key to 4C hair growth is a consistent regimen that helps you maintain healthy hair and retain length. Some things that can help speed up your hair growth such as scalp massages and using supplements like biotin. You can also use hair growth oils such as Jamaican black castor oil and rosemary oil but remember consistency is key! Don’t use these things in isolation and they must be used over a lengthy period of time i.e 3 to 6 months to see results. Incorporate them with some of the 15 tips we mentioned above and you’ll see an improvement.

    2: Is 4C hair the hardest to grow?

    4C hair is naturally dry, fragile and brittle in comparison to other hair types which means it is prone to breakage and damage. The coils clump together and you experience a significant amount of shrinkage which makes it appear like your hair isn’t growing even though it is. The hardest part of hair growth for any Type 4 hair is length retention! Your hair is growing but due to styling and over manipulation – you’re probably not holding onto enough of your new growth which is why protective styling and detangling with care are key contributors to 4c hair growth. 

    3: Why is my 4C natural hair always dry?

    Due to the nature of the 4C coil pattern being really tight. Moisture can have a hard time penetrating through the hair strands making your hair appear dry and brittle. Getting the adequate amount of moisture into your 4C hair strands will keep it from drying out. Incorporating treatments like deep conditioning and hot oil treatments will help with moisture retention. But it’s also important to moisturise your hair regularly – depending on your hair porosity you can use the LOC or LCO methods to help the moisture stay in your strands for longer. It’s also important to use the right ingredients which have enough hydration. Using oils and butters alone will not moisturise your hair – it’ll just sit on top.

    4: Should you moisturise 4c hair everyday?

    You can definitely moisturise your 4C hair daily but just be mindful of over moisturising as it’ll make your hair limp and mushy if you don’t have the right moisture/protein balance. Personally, I would recommend moisturising every couple of days if you’re suffering from extreme dryness. This is why you have to be mindful of what hair products you use. When testing products, see how your hair reacts to it. Ask yourself: “Is it drying my hair out OR does it just sit on top of my hair strands?” AND “Does my hair feel moisturised and hydrated?”


    There is no harm in refreshing your hair daily with a spray bottle that contains a mixture of water and leave in conditioner. Just be mindful that if you’ve sealed your hair with an oil or butter – it might not penetrate all the way through. Read our post on moisturising vs sealing oils to understand which one you should incorporate into your moisturising routine.

    Check out this video to learn more about when and how to moisturise 4C natural hair:

    FINAL THOUGHTS

    As you can see, maintaining, growing and retaining 4C hair requires a variety of different elements incorporated into your hair regimen for your hair to thrive. The key is consistency and patience. If you try one of the tips and it doesn’t work for you then it’s okay to drop it. You have to trust the process and give yourself a bit of time to see results. Remember – your hair is beautiful, enjoy the process and embrace the journey. You can’t change the hair on your head but you can grow to love it by knowing how to care for it properly.

    We hope this post helped you, we’d love to hear from you in the comment section.

    What’s been your biggest struggle with your 4C hair growth journey? OR What have you found most useful and helpful to achieve your 4C hair growth goals?

    REFERENCES

    1. Standardized Scalp Massage Results in Increased Hair Thickness by Inducing Stretching Forces to Dermal Papilla Cells in the Subcutaneous Tissue : Taro Koyama, PHD, MD, Kazuhiro Kobayashi MD, Takanori Hama, Kasumi Murakami and Rei Ogawa, PHD, MD. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4740347/ ↩︎
  • The truth about braids for hair growth & length retention

    The truth about braids for hair growth & length retention

    Braids are one of the most popular protective hairstyles for black women. They’re the perfect holiday hairstyle, last a long time, easy to style and keep your ends protected. Braids can have a positive impact on length retention and helps you make the most of your new growth. How? You may wonder! Well, your hands are kept out of your hair whilst wearing the style which minimises wear and tear that comes with daily styling. But with any protective style moderation is key! It’s also important to know how to maintain your natural hair whilst wearing braids to get the most out of your hair growth and minimise any breakage or excessive shedding when you finally decide to take them out.

    We’ll be giving you a run down on how braids can contribute to your hair growth goals. Plus TIP’s on what TO DO/ NOT DO to make the most of your length retention whilst wearing your braids. 

    Are braids good for length retention?

    Braids are a great way to retain length but to get the most out of your hair growth you need to ensure you maintain them effectively. The length, size and tightness of the braids all have a part to play. Here’s 3 ways braids contribute to length retention:

    • Less Manipulation – when wearing braids, you don’t have to deal with daily styling! Your hair is left alone giving it the opportunity to thrive without constantly touching it. Excessive styling of hair is known to contribute to shedding and breakage if not done with the right styling tools, being done too frequently or being heavy handed. It’s okay to leave your hair alone and let it breathe which is what braids offer you.
    • Minimal Detangling – Detangling is part and parcel of every Naturalista’s life. Type 4 hair is prone to tangling due to its tight curl pattern. When detangling, it’s all about detangling with care and using products with the right amount of slip to make the process easier. As your hair is tucked away in braids for at least 6 to 8 weeks – you’ll experience less hair loss from the detangling process.
    • Protected Ends – The ends of our hair is the oldest part which means it’s prone to breakage, split ends and knots. Keeping ends protected helps minimise split ends travelling up the hair shaft and can contribute to length retention because you’ll be snipping a minimal amount when it’s time for your trim.

    Can braids make your hair grow longer?

    The truth is braids does not make your hair grow. There is a big misconception regarding growth and retention when it comes to braids. Scientifically, hair starts from  “new cells forming in the hair bulb. Once the cells stick together and harden, the full strand of hair develops. They attach to the hair from below and gradually push up out of the skin”. 1There are various phases to the hair growth cycle known as the Anagen, Transitional and Resting Phase. The Anagen phase is also known as the growth phase. “At any point in time, about 90 percent of a person’s total amount of hair is in this growth phase.” So as long as new cells are continuously created in the hair bulb then your hair is likely to grow longer. Click here to learn more about the hair growth cycle.

    Now there are various things that can contribute to hair growth such as genetics, diet, lifestyle, hair maintenance routine etc. But braids alone can’t grow your hair. You’re likely to feel like your hair has grown quicker and longer faster because you can clearly see your new growth as your braids begin to grow out. The truth is the growth is just more visible because it’s more obvious compared to if you were wearing your hair in a bun or twist out everyday. Don’t let this discourage you from wearing braids because although it doesn’t contribute to growth. Braids help you retain length you wouldn’t have been able to hold onto if your hair wasn’t protected. 

    Braid bumps on scalp

    Is it healthy to put your hair in braids?

    We’ve all seen the horror stories that come with braids, especially when you’ve seen people experience thinning edges, alopecia or scalp irritation. But it’s important to note that wearing braids is healthy whether you decide to use your own natural hair or braiding hair to create your braids. Aside from it being a great protective style, wearing braids can add many benefits to your natural hair. Here are 5 ways braids can contribute to your hairs health:

    • Helps lock in moisture and hydration within the hair strands
    • Prevents split ends for natural wear and tear
    • Prevents breakage 
    • Protects hair whilst you sleep 
    • Low Maintenance 

    Are braids good for thinning hair?

    In a nutshell NO. If you’re hair is already fragile and thinning. Wearing braids could lead to additional damage. Braids are usually done with synthetic or human braiding hair. Although they’re not heavy when you feel them, you’ll be attaching the braiding hair to individual strands of your hair which will add tension to your hair follicles. If you’re not careful – you could end up with alopecia. 

    So what’s the option if you like wearing braids. Well, you might want to opt for something like crochet braids. In this style, your hair is cornrowed down and the braiding hair is crochet’d on top of the cornrows. The reason why this method works so well is because your natural hair is already braided down to your scalp. Leading to less pulling on tugging on your natural hair when styling. 

    Why am I losing so much hair after braiding?

    It’s normal for your hair to shed between 50 to 100 hairs a day. Once you’ve taken out your braids, it might feel like you’ve lost alot of hair but it’s most likely to be hair that shed and was trapped in between the braids. So don’t panic if you notice alot more hair falling out then you normally do. Now there’s a difference between shedding and breakage. I’d say it’s important to distinguish between the two to know if you should be panicking or not. A quick way to tell the difference between the two is shed hair tends to be the full length of your hair strand whereas breakage tends to be shorter and brittle strands. 

    Here are a few ways you can minimise excessive shedding and loss of healthy hair strands whilst removing your braids

    1. Take ur time :

    Don’t be in a rush when taking out your braids. Be prepared for it to take a couple of hours, you want to use the same amount of care at the beginning of the braid removal process as the last braid. You can rope in a friend and take breaks in between if needed. 

    2. Don’t be heavy handed :

    This is pretty self-explanatory, it’s likely some of your braiding hair can get tangled with your hair when pulling or tugging. So be gentle to ensure you’re not pulling and ripping out your natural hair. 

    3. Loosen from the tip upwards :

    Always loosen the braid from the tip before moving upwards. 

    4. Detangle with care :

    You can use a detangling product and spritz your hair with water to make the detangling process easier. Depending on how long you’ve had your braids in, you’re likely to experience some build up. So take your time to remove the build up from each section as opposed to detangling it all at once. Remember: working in sections and on damp hair makes detangling easier.

    How long should I wear my Braids? And How often do braids need to be re-done?

    Stick to 8 weeks and if you want to stretch your braids a little longer than 10 weeks max. Like any protective style, there is a limit to how long you can wear it. For instance, if you keep your braids in for too long, you can end up with excessive buildup which would make the removal and detangling process harder. 

    Braids around your hairline tend to grow older quicker than the rest purely because it tends to be the shorter part of your hair but also because it’s the area you tend to style the most. You can always get this re-done around the 3 – 4 week mark. This helps the style look fresher but also minimises any pulling of the hair along your hair line. 

    Top Tips for Using Braids for Length Retention

    braids for length retention

    Additional Tip’s for using braids to achieve optimal length retention

    Having the right maintenance routine will have a huge impact on how much length you retain whilst wearing braids. We’ve broken down some Do’s & Don’ts of what to do to help you on your journey.

    * TIP : Everyone’s hair is different so test them out and see how they work for you. You can always adopt the tips to suit you as and when needed.

    Do’s of Wearing Braids for length retention

    1. Wash your scalp :

    We would recommend at least once a month if you want to limit frizz. How often you wash your braids really depends on your lifestyle. For instance, if you’re a regular in the gym and your scalp is itchy from sweat then you might want to wash your hair more often.

    2. Ensure your hair is fully DRY :

    This is an important step! If you’re hair is damp and not fully dry then you’ll have an irritable scalp and your braids will smell like mould. You can definitely air dry your braids but to speed things up then use a blow dryer to dry the roots and let the rest of your braids air dry.

    3. Moisturise & Seal ends :

    Get into the habit of moisturising and sealing your ends. Although your hair is protected, it still needs moisture to thrive and not become overly dry. You can mix your leave in conditioner with some water in a spray bottle and spritz across the length of your braids. For extra protection, seal with an oil to keep your hair hydrated for longer.

    4. Re-do Braids Along Hairline:

    If you noticed the braids along the hairline are pulling on your edges. Then theres no harm in re-doing it so it doesn’t rip out your hair. You can get it re-done every 3 – 4 weeks which will help keep your hair looking fresh and limit the damage to your hair follicles.

    5. Have Break:

    If braids are your go to style then have a break in between braids. Like any protective style, moderation is key. Excessively doing the same hairstyle can lead to damage so its best to give yourself at least a week or 2 break before re-braiding.

    6. Speak Up:

    If you notice your stylist is braiding your hair too tightly then speak up there and then! Don’t let your stylist go rogue with what they want to do and end up regretting it after. Let them know straight away if there pulling your hair too tight and stop them from continuing. Change stylists next time if you’re not happy.

    Don’ts of Wearing Braids for length retention

    1. Tight styles :

    Don’t constantly wear your hair up or in tight ponytail styles. This adds tension to your hairline and can end up pulling on your hairline eventually damaging your hair follicles. This isn’t to say you cant wear your hair in buns or ponytails but just limit the amount of times and alternate your hairstyles.

    2. Wear for too long

    The advise is to stick to a maximum of 8 weeks. Some people do like to stretch their hairstyles so could potentially wear braids for longer such as 10 – 12 weeks. However, I wouldn’t go beyond that time and would pay extra attention to your hairline.

    8 Ways to Style Your Braids

    Final Thoughts 

    Braids are a great protective style and great way to maximise length retention. The key is to still have a maintenance routine whilst wearing them to ensure your hair and scalp is healthy. You’ll want to stick to medium sized braids and minimise tight hairstyles to make the most of your new hair growth. Braids offer you a variety of styling options whilst protecting your natural hair at the same time. It also requires minimal effort whilst wearing them so they’re a WIN WIN for Naturalista’s who don’t have as much time on their hands.

    Here are some other braid articles that may be off interest to you;

    How to Relieve Tight Braids and Treat Braid Bumps?

    Everything you need to know about French Curl Braids

    SOURCES :

    1. What is the structure of hair and how does it grow? : IQWiG (Institute for Quality and Efficiency in Health Care) https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK546248/
      ↩︎
  • Mini Twists! The Ultimate Style for Retention & Hair Growth

    Mini Twists! The Ultimate Style for Retention & Hair Growth

    Mini Twists have become more and more popular over the last couple of months. If you’re on social media platforms such as TikTok and Instagram, you’ll see countless videos of why Natural Hair Girlies are loving this style. The term mini twists has generated millions of views on Tiktok, 27.4 mill to be exact and still climbing. Apart from the fact that it’s a great protective style. Naturalistas are boasting about the amount of hair growth and length they’re able to retain whilst rocking mini twists. So if you’re on the market for a new protective style that helps you achieve your natural hair growth goals, then mini twists might be the style for you! It’s easy to maintain and has multiple styling options.

    We’ll cover everything you need to know to help you figure out if this is a hairstyle you should incorporate it into your natural hair routine more regularly. Keep reading to learn more!

    Are Mini Twists Good For Natural Hair?

    In a nutshell YES! Mini Twists are GREAT for natural hair especially Type 4 Naturalistas. They’re a protective style which minimises daily manipulation and helps you hold onto your new hair growth whilst retaining length. The twists are created by dividing your hair into small sections and then wrapping/rotating the strands of your hair across each other from root to tip until the twists are formed. The style can be done on any length or texture with or without the use of natural hair extensions.

    Do Mini Twists Contribute To Hair Growth?

    Twists alone can’t grow your hair as there are many factors that affect how quickly your hair grows such as genetics, scalp health, hair health etc. However, Twists can contribute to your hair’s growth ensuring your holding onto that new growth and retaining as much length as possible whilst wearing them. Here are 5 ways Mini Twists contribute to your hair growth.

    1. Protected ends : Your ends are protected in this style minimising wear and tear that comes with daily styling. 
    2. Low tension Style : It’s a low tension style which reduces stress on your hairline and scalp keeping your hair in a healthy state which in return promotes hair growth 
    3. Prevents single strand knots : As your hair is protected and tucked away, it reduces any excessive shedding and breakage that may come with daily manipulation and over styling.
    4. Prevents breakage : Keeping your hair in a protective style can help prevent excess breakage
    5. Helps retain moisture : you’ll be moisturising your twists regularly and oiling your scalp to prevent dryness. This will strengthen your hair strands and improve your hair’s elasticity.

    Take a look Shaneal’s hair growth comparison pics whilst wearing mini twists. Her instagram page @curlcodeblack documents her hair growth journey and you’ll notice mini twists are a regular part of her protective styling routine.

    Mini Twists Hair Growth Comparison
    Mini Twists Hair Growth Comparison

    Aside from mini twists promoting hair growth, there are also other benefits to rocking this style. Such as,

    • Easy to maintain 
    • Versatile Styling Options 
    • Easy removal process 
    • Reduces tangles 
    • Keeps scalp accessible 
    • Doubles up as a twist out after removal

    How to do Mini twists?

    Mini Twists are easy to do and are an inexpensive hairstyle which can be done by yourself as opposed to going to a hairstylist. All you need is a couple of hours, some patience and remember practice makes perfect. They may not look exactly how you envisioned the first time round but you’ll get better at it the more you do it. If you’re thinking about using hair extensions then it might be worth getting a friend to help or watching a tutorial to understand how to attach the extensions to your natural hair. 

    Before we get started on how to install your mini twists. You’ll need the following tools;

    • Wash day products (Shampoo, Conditioner, Leave in)
    • Detangling Brush 
    • Rat Tail comb 
    • Hair Clips/Separators 
    • A Twisting Butter or Cream 
    • Gel (Optional) 

    Step by Step Guide for Installing Mini Twists 

    Step 1 – Start off with freshly cleansed hair: 

    Follow your normal wash day routine. We recommend doing a deep conditioning treatment prior to getting any protective style to ensure the moisture from the product has fully penetrated through your hair strands. 

    Step 2 – Moisturise your hair and detangle thoroughly:

    Apply your leave-in conditioner on damp hair and work through from root to tip. Finger detangle once product has been applied and follow up with a detangling brush to ensure product has been worked through all your hair strands whilst making sure your hair is fully detangled.

    Step 3 – Section hair into 4 Parts:

    You’ll be working in sections for this style, you’ll start with big sections and each section will get smaller as you go along. Use your hair clips to keep the hair in their allocated sections. You can also twist or braid each section if you prefer.

    Step 4 – Work on 1 section at a time and split into smaller parts:

    Use a rat tail comb to split the section into smaller parts of 1 – 2 inches depending on the size you’re trying to achieve. Apply your twisting butter or cream to the parted section to prep for twisting

    Step 5 – Start twisting:

    Separate the part you created into 2 equal parts and begin to twist the hair around each other in a rope like motion from root to tip. As you get towards the ends, you may need to apply more cream or butter if it feels dry and then twirl the ends with your fingers once the twist is complete.

    Step 6 – Repeat:

    Continue step 5 until you’ve completed your whole head of hair. TIP – It’s okay to take a break in between sections. The key is to be patient and not rush the process so your twists come out equally. 

    Step 7 – Seal ends with an oil:

    Seal your ends with a lightweight oil such as jojoba, grapeseed or almond oil to lock in moisture. 

    NOTE: If you’re interested in doing the 3 strand twists, the process is pretty much the same. The difference is you’ll be splitting the parts into 3 sections and twist around each other. As a beginner, it’s best to stick to 2 strand twists until you’ve got the hang of things.

    How long should I keep my mini twists?

    Your twists have now been successfully installed so you’re probably wondering how long you should keep them in. The recommendation is anything from 4 – 8 weeks. Like any protective style, you’ll need to follow a maintenance routine to keep your scalp healthy to aid hair growth whilst wearing your mini twists. The great thing about mini twists is they’re easy to maintain and practical so your wash day doesn’t take as long as it normally does. One thing to bear in mind is that twists can loc your hair if they’re not properly maintained so make sure to create a maintenance routine you can stick to and pay attention to your twists especially at the roots if you decide to wear them for slightly longer. 

    How should I maintain my mini twists for hair growth?

    Here are some things you can incorporate into your twist hair growth routine. 

    1. Keep on top of wash days 

    To keep your scalp healthy and minimise build up, you’ll want to stick to regular cleansing of your hair. To achieve hair growth whilst wearing your mini twists, you need to keep your scalp clean so it can thrive. It’s also best to wash your hair in sections to minimise frizz and stop the twists from rubbing against each other. You can always apply a mousse once you’ve finished to help with the frizz. Also, don’t forget to use a conditioner and apply a leave-in once you’ve finished shampooing. 

    2. Sleep with a silk or satin scarf and or bonnet

    This is a must do if you want to retain moisture and minimise frizz. It’ll keep your hair neat and help you maintain your twists for longer. You can also sleep with a silk or satin pillowcase for that extra protection. 

    3. Avoid wearing your twists down all the time

    Luckily, there are endless styling options when wearing this style. You’ll want to avoid wearing your hair down all the time so it doesn’t rub against your clothing. Hair rubbing against clothes can cause split ends and breakage. Although your hair is protected in twists, it’s worth being mindful of this especially if you wear alot of cotton. Cotton dries out hair and makes it harder for it to retain moisture. 

    4. Moisturise and seal your hair regularly

    Afro textured hair thrives on moisture so make sure you do this 2 – 3  times a week if you want to achieve optimal growth and retain length whilst wearing your mini twists. You can mix your water with a leave-in conditioner and spritz on your hair. Then follow up with a lightweight oil to seal in the moisture

    5. Apply hair growth oil 

    If hair growth is the main reason you’re interested in trying this style, then there’s no harm using a hair growth oil. Although these oils aren’t solely responsible for growing your hair. It can help it grow a little bit faster. Just be careful not to be heavy handed when applying to avoid product build up. Remember, to massage the oil into your scalp to improve blood circulation in the area.

    How do you refresh mini twists?

    Your twists won’t need to be refreshed very often if you’re keeping up with your maintenance routine. However, if you feel your twists are unravelling and not as neat as you would like. You can always re-do the twists around your hairline and nape of your neck to give it a fresher look. Just be careful when unravelling your twists as you don’t want to tug or pull on it. Apply an oil to the twists and unravel from tip to roots. Once unravelled, spritz your hair with water and detangle. We find finger detangling first and then following up with your detangling tool of choice is the best way to detangle without tugging or pulling on your hair. 

    6 Ways to Style Mini Twists

    You won’t be bored when wearing mini twists, there are several styling options which makes this style more fun to wear. We’ve featured some of our favourite Naturalista’s for styling inspiration.  

    1. Bun and Ponytail styles

    Mini Twists Hairstyle

    Credit : @curlcodeblack

    2. Tribal Cornrows with Mini Twists 

    Mini Twists with Cornrows

    Credit : @opaglamz

    3. Side Part Bun

    Credit : @type4.hair

    4. Claw Clip 

    Mini Twists with Claw Clip

    Credit : @the.natural.breona

    5. Mini Twists with Curly ends

    Mini Twists with Curly Ends

    Credit : @bohosoulsalon (Stylist) @nyreephotography (Photographer) @silk_sachet (Model)

    6. Space Buns

    Mini Twist Hairstyle (Space Buns)

    Credit : @yolandaas

    * We’ve linked the instagram pages of all the Naturalistas featured. Feel free to check out their instagram pages for more natural hair inspo and give them a follow!

    Mini Twist FAQ’s 

    1: Can mini twists turn into locs/dreads?

    This isn’t something you need to worry about if you’re wearing the style for a short period of time. Although, two strand twists are known to be a loc’ing method. They only begin to loc when you keep them in for long periods. The locs tend to form from 6 – 24 months and there is a process you need to follow to keep the twists from unravelling to achieve dreadlocks. If you’re interested in using the method to to start your loc or dreads journey then it’s best to go to a stylist who specialises in this to help you achieve your desired look. 

    2: Should you put mini twists in wet or dry hair?

    Installing twists on wet or dry hair is a personal preference. There isn’t a right or wrong way! Both have their pros and cons depending on what look you’re trying to achieve. If you’re a beginner, the recommendation is to do it on dry hair. Dry hair is easier to work with and will make parting a lot easier. Whilst wet hair is more fragile and your hair is likely to get dry half way through completing the twists.

    For the best of both worlds, we recommend working on dry hair to make parting and sectioning easier. You can then spritz each parted section with water prior to applying your twisting cream or butter. Working on damp hair will help your product penetrate through your hair strands. It’ll also give your twists a tighter hold and your ends will have a slight curl. Do what works best for you, and if you’re in doubt watch a couple youtube tutorials to help you decide.

    3: How long does it take to get mini twists?

    Mini Twists can take anything from 3 hours to 6 hours depending on your hairs length and density. The size of your twists will also have a part to play in timings. If it’s your first time doing them by yourself then it’s best to allocate a full day. You’re likely to take breaks in between from your arms hurting and if you’re not used to parting your hair it’ll take you a little longer to get used to. Feel free to get a friend to help to speed up the process or you can go to a hairstylist if you want to save some time. 

    Final Thoughts

    Mini Twists are a great protective style to help you achieve hair growth and retain length. Like any protective style, it’s important to have a maintenance routine to keep your scalp and hair healthy. It’s easy to maintain without adding any tension to your scalp which is a plus when trying to grow out your hair. Plus, there are so many styling options which makes it a fun style. We can see why mini twists has grown in popularity over the last couple of years.

    We’re hoping you’ve taken some inspiration from the Naturalistas featured and want to take this opportunity to thank them for letting us share their pictures in this article.

    Have you tried mini twists before? What has your experience been like using mini twists to achieve hair growth?

  • Low Porosity Tips to Boost Your Natural Hair Routine

    Low Porosity Tips to Boost Your Natural Hair Routine

    When it comes to maintaining your natural hair, it’s important to identify what your hair needs to care for it in the right way. Identifying and understanding your hair porosity is equally as important as knowing your hair type. Regardless of if you’re Type 3 or 4 Naturalista – we all have different porosity types which will impact the products we choose to use and customise our natural hair routine to achieve our hair goals. Knowing your hair porosity (low, medium or high) and its characteristics will help you boost your natural hair regimen and ensure your hair is being treated with the right level of care.  

    Have you ever been in a situation where you’ve been trying viral hair products but not necessarily seeing the same results as everyone else? OR Does your hair feel like a product just sits on top of it as opposed to being absorbed through the hair strands? OR  Do you find that regardless of what products you use your hair always seems dry? Well, you’re not alone! Every Naturalista has encountered this at some point during their hair care journey and these problems arise based on your hairs ability to absorb and hold onto moisture.

    What is Low Porosity hair?

    Porosity is an indicator of how easily moisture can penetrate through your hair shaft. It’s mainly determined by genetics but other factors such as the use of heat and chemicals have a part to play. If you have low porosity hair, it means your hair is lacking moisture in comparison to medium and high porosity hair types. This is due to low porosity having a harder time absorbing and retaining moisture.

    Naturals with low porosity hair have tightly aligned hair cuticles which create a barrier for moisture to enter and penetrate through the strands. Their hair is also water resistant which can make it difficult to absorb moisture, water and hair products. 

    Here are 5 characteristics that will help you identify if you have low porosity hair;

    • It takes longer for your hair to get completely wet when saturated with water
    • Heat is required for moisture to penetrate through       
    • You have a high tendency for product build up   
    • Products tend to sit on top of the hair strands        
    • It takes longer to dry

    How to Know if you have Low Porosity Hair?

    It’s best to do a test to figure out your hair porosity. The process is pretty simple to follow and all you’ll need is a glass of water and a strand of hair. It’s best to do this test on freshly cleansed hair. Do not do this test on dirty hair as your results will not be accurate.

    Simply take a clean, product-free strand of loose hair and put it in a glass of water. If the hair floats to the top then it’s low porosity, if it sinks slowly or settles in the middle it is medium/normal porosity, and if it sinks straight to the bottom then it is high porosity. See diagram below;

    Hair Porosity Test
    Low, Medium, High Hair Porosity

    The results of the test will give you your answer. It’s also worth reviewing the characteristics we mentioned earlier to see if you relate. It’s likely you’ve been aware of the characteristics but didn’t know you had low porosity hair.

    How to Care for Low Porosity? Plus Steps to Implement into your Natural Hair routine

    Caring for low porosity natural hair can be frustrating at times. Especially because it repels water and natural hair requires hydration and moisture to thrive. In fact, it’s even more important to keep low porosity hair hydrated in comparison to other porosity types. But don’t panic…the good news is, there are several ways you can get moisture to penetrate through your hair strands. You’ll just have to work a little harder to get your hair fully hydrated by incorporating different methods/techniques. 

    We’ll give you a run down on the basics you’ll need to incorporate into your natural hair routine to ensure your low porosity hair is getting the moisture it needs. Note – even though you have the same porosity as other naturals, your hair might react differently so take your time to find the right routine and figure out what works best for you.

    How often should you cleanse/wash low porosity hair?

    Low porosity hair is prone to build up as products tend to sit on top of the hair rather than penetrate through the strands. As a result, you’ll need to clarify your hair regularly. The recommendation is typically every 1 – 2 weeks and ensure your hair is thoroughly clean by doing at least 2 rounds of shampooing. There will be weeks where you’ll have more buildup in between wash days depending on your styling options. So pay attention to signs of build up (i.e. residue, dry or itchy scalp, flakiness or dullness) once it appears and get rid of it.

    How do you moisturise low porosity hair?

    As low porosity struggles to take in moisture. You need to pay close attention to the ingredients in your products. Unfortunately, just piling on hair products won’t keep your hair moisturised. Instead, it’ll lead to product build up which is what you want to avoid. Use lightweight products without a lot of oils in order for the moisture to penetrate through the hair shaft. Products with film-forming humectants help your hair retain water and then follow through with a light oil to seal in the moisture.

    How to grow low porosity hair?

    Natural hair grows up to 6 inches per year, in some cases it can be less or more. Hair growth is down to a variety of factors such genetics, lifestyle, hair manipulation from styling, supplements etc. The key to hair growth is having a healthy scalp so step 1 is clarify your hair. Make your cleansing your hair regularly to ensure your hair follicles aren’t clogged up by oils and excess product which will keep your scalp in a healthy state. Step 2 is to retain as much hair growth as possible. There are various ways to retain length such as protective styling, keeping your hair hydrated and getting regular trims. Utilising these techniques will help moisture get into the hair strands and will reduce the risk of dry and brittle hair which leads to breakage.

    To grow low porosity hair, you’ll need to customise your hair routine to fit your hair care needs. The focus should be clarifying, moisturising, using the right products that contain humectants and minimise the use of heavy oils. Note; other factors will have a part to play such as eating habits, lifestyle etc but if you can focus on finding the right routine then you should be fine. One way to stay on top of your progress is by tracking and documenting your natural hair journey so you know where to make changes and improvements.

    9 Low Porosity Haircare Tips to incorporate into your Natural Hair Routine

    Now you understand what hair porosity is and how cleansing and getting hydration into the strands can help you maintain healthy hair. Here are some things you’ll want to incorporate into your natural hair routine to boost your regimen and ensure your low porosity hair is properly cared for. You don’t have to do them all but suggest trying a couple and figure out what works best for you. 

    1. Use products with the right ingredients

    It’s important to use ingredients that will penetrate through your hair shafts as opposed to drying it out further. You should always check the ingredients in all your products especially shampoos, conditioners and moisturisers. Stay away from anything that contains sulphates and silicones. Instead, use hair products that contain film-forming humectants that help retain water in your hair. These humectants have moisturising ingredients that create a clear, flexible film over your strands to help resist dehydration.

    Examples of film-forming humectants:

    • Marshmallow root
    • Flaxseed gel
    • Aloe vera
    • Slippery Elm
    • Pathenol
    • Hydroxyproplytrimonium honey
    • nettle leaf tea or nettle extract 

    2. Use the correct oils to seal in moisture

    Using oils is an effective way to seal moisture into your cuticles. However, there are certain oils that won’t work for low porosity hair. For example, coconut oil is raved about in the natural hair community but due to the oil being quite heavy – it doesn’t actually add much benefit to low porosity naturals and just sits on top of the hair strands. The best oils for low porosity hair are lightweight oils. They are known for penetrating through your roots and hair shafts increasing the chances of your hair absorbing it. You might also want to stay away from heavy butters and try an avocado, mango or murumuru butter which is light in texture and has sealing properties.

    Examples of lightweight oils: Jojoba oil, Avocado oil, Grapesed oil, Sweet almond oil, Argan oil and Sunflower oil.

    TIP – Always use oils as the last step! You want to apply it after you moisturise your hair and use it to seal the moisture into your hair strands. If you apply oil onto your strands prior to moisturising then you’ll be locking out moisture as opposed to getting it into the hair shaft.

    Lightweight oils

    3. Always use heat when deep conditioning

    Heat is a great way to open up your hair’s cuticle and works extremely well for low porosity hair. For your hair to reap the full benefits of your deep conditioner – you need to open up the cuticles. The cuticles will naturally open when you clarify your hair with warm water but it’s important not to wait for your hair to dry before applying your deep conditioner. Apply it straight away so you to get the benefits of the moisturising ingredients. It’s best to leave the treatment on your hair for at least 30 mins and apply a shower cap to keep the product from drying out. Sit under a hooded dryer or heat cap to keep your cuticles open. 

    You should aim to use a deep conditioning treatment at least twice a month. It might sound like a laborious process but trust me it’s worth it! You’ll start to see improvements in your hair’s health and it’s ability to retain moisture. Learn more about the benefits of deep conditioning here.

    4. Utilise steam

    Steam is another method of opening up your hair cuticles and offers similar benefits to using heat and warm water. The difference with steam is it works slightly quicker. This is because the water molecules are in vapour form which move quicker than liquid molecules to penetrate your hair. There are hand hair steamers you can purchase and use in between washes to open up your hair cuticles when moisturising your hair. Alternatively, you can use the steam from a hot shower if you don’t want to invest in a steamer. Remember, steam alone can’t hydrate your hair so use it as a step prior to moisturising your hair.

    5. Always apply products to damp hair 

    This is a pretty simple step, you don’t need to completely saturate your hair. But you can use a spray bottle to spritz your hair prior to applying your products to help the ingredients penetrate through your hair strands. Water is every Naturalista’s friend! Although low porosity hair has a harder time absorbing it – it doesn’t mean you should eliminate it completely. TIP – use warm water to open up your hair cuticles.

    6. Try a pre-poo treatment

    Pre-pooing is a way of prepping your hair prior to cleansing. There are a variety of ways you can pre-poo your hair using products such as masks, oils, scrubs and deep conditioning treatments.  Shampoo is known for stripping your hair of its natural oils and moisture.  Pre-pooing is a way of retaining that moisture. This is extremely useful for low porosity hair as it minimises and prevents the stripping of your hair from the shampoo. 

    7. Don’t skip trims

    Trims are vital for any hair type but key for low porosity hair it’s essential due to your hair being drier and brittle in texture.. This leads to split ends travelling up the hair shaft quickly eventually leading to breakage. Ideally, you want to trim your hair every 8 weeks but if you prefer to stretch your trim you can opt for every 12 weeks. The key is to maintain healthy hair and have a consistent routine.

    8. Sleep with a silk pillowcase 

    Have you ever gone to bed with your scarf or bonnet and found it on the floor or somewhere on your bed when you wake up? I’m sure we’ve all had this experience at some point which is why sleeping with a silk pillowcase provides you with that extra protection. Cotton pillowcases are known for drying out hair whilst silk pillowcases help keep moisture in your coils/curls for longer. You can opt for satin pillowcases too, they tend to be significantly cheaper than silk but it won’t retain moisture as well as silk. Aside from the benefits for your hair, you’ll notice a difference on your face. So throw that cotton pillowcase away and upgrade to a smoother silkier option that has better benefits for you.

    Silk/Satin

    9. Treat and prevent build up

    Build up is something low porosity naturals battle with a lot. Unfortunately, the hair strands find it difficult to absorb moisture which leads to products sitting on top of your strands. One way you can curb build up in low porosity hair is by using a clarifying shampoo – incorporate it into your natural hair routine and start of with once a month to stay on top of it. If you’re interested in a natural hair remedy then opt for a apple cider vinegar rinse. All you need to do is dilute 1 spoon of vinegar with a cup of water and spritz on your hair after shampooing. Make sure you get the whole length of your hair and scalp. Then follow up with a conditioner or deep conditioning treatment to get that moisture back into your hair strands.

    FAQ’s re: Low Porosity Natural Hair Routine

    1: How do you treat low porosity hair?

    We’ve covered the majority of the elements of how to treat low porosity hair above but a quick takeaway is to stay away from heavy products which will lead to build up. Stick to lightweight products that have the right moisturising benefits. You can always utilise treatments such as pre-poos and deep conditioners to get that extra moisture and hydration into your hair strands. Try to use heat and/or steam when using these treatments to open up the hair cuticle to ensure the ingredients get right through to the core of the strands.

    2: What ingredients should I avoid for low porosity hair?

    There are 2 main ingredients that are a no-go for low porosity hair! Silicones and Sulphates. Silicone makes your hair appear shiny after use which is why many people use it but it doesn’t actually keep your hair moisturised. Constant use of silicones can weaken the hair causing damage. Sulphates strip the hair of natural moisture which is a big no no for women with low porosity hair. The overuse of sulphates for low porosity naturals leads to excessive dryness and frizz. There are loads of sulphate free shampoos on the market so you’ll be able to find something that works for you.

    3: Which oil is best for low porosity hair?

    You want to opt for lightweight oils as opposed to heavy ones to minimise build up and clogging up your scalp. Luckily, there are many options on the market. Here are some of our favourite oils for low porosity hair;

    • Jojoba Oil
    • Sweet Almond Oil
    • Grapeseed Oil
    • Baobab Oil
    • Argan Oil
    • Pomegranate Oil 
    • Avocado Oil

    4: Does low porosity hair need protein?

    In general, natural hair needs the right balance of protein and moisture to thrive. The difference with low porosity hair is it doesnt need as much protein compared to other porosity types. The benefit of protein is it adds strength to your hair, it helps with elasticity and keeps your hair strong. But too much protein can leave your hair dry and brittle. As a low porosity natural, you may need to monitor how your hair reacts to protein treatments to decide how often you incorporate it into your routine. If you’re experiencing significant breakage or notice a drop in elasticity then it might be time to get a protein treatment.

    Final Thoughts 

    We hope you got everything you need to boost your low porosity natural hair routine. Despite the challenges low porosity naturals face of retaining and absorbing moisture. There are a variety of ways you can get moisture into your hair strands. One of the things you’ll have to change straight away is reading the ingredients on products before purchasing them. Hair brands are very good at marketing products for hair growth and moisture but when you read the labels you’ll find harmful ingredients that don’t add any benefit. Get into the habit of doing your research so it doesn’t have any detrimental impact on your hair’s health.

    Do you have low porosity hair? What tips have you tried or recommend for other Naturalistas?