NaturalistaVibes

Category: Natural Haircare

Blog posts about everything you need to know about Natural Haircare for Type 4A, 4B & 4C hair. You’ll learn about natural hair education for maintaining and retaining healthy luscious locks. As well as tips and tricks to incorporate into your natural haircare regimen.

  • 15 Hair Growth Tips For 4C Natural Hair

    15 Hair Growth Tips For 4C Natural Hair

    Out of all the Type 4 hair types, 4C hair is known to be the tightest and coarsest out of all the afro hair textures. The curl pattern is quite unique and made out of really tight zig-zag curls and coils which are closely packed together. 4C Hair is probably the most popular hair type for most Naturalistas and sometimes comes with its challenges when on a hair growth journey. This is due to the amount of shrinkage you’ll experience with this curl type. Despite its challenges – the texture it’s absolutely gorgeous and with the right hair maintenance routine and TLC – you’ll begin to love your 4C hair more and more.

    There’s a misconception that 4C Hair can’t grow but we’re here to dispel that myth with 15 tips to help you make the most of your hair 4C hair growth journey whilst falling in love with your texture at the same time. 

    Characteristics of 4C Natural Hair

    4C and 4B hair can be easily confused due to the similarities of their coil patterns. If you’re unsure if you have 4C hair – here are some characteristics to help you figure it out.

    • Tight Z shaped pattern
    • Coily hair texture
    • Significant shrinkage, up to 70% of your stretched 
    • Strands clump together
    • Thick and coarse hair (although it’s also possible to have fine 4c hair) 
    • Prone to tangles and breakage
    Source : GIPHY

    NOTE : It’s definitely possible to have multiple textures. For instance I have a mix of 4B and 4C hair strands but one texture is likely to outweigh the other.

    15 4C Natural Hair Growth Tips to Try

    1.Detangle with care

    This is the stage where you’re likely to lose most of your new hair growth and length. Especially if you don’t exercise patience and use some TLC. The 4C hair texture is prone to tangling and knots so using the right technique and products is the best way to minimise any hair loss you’ve worked so hard to grow and retain. Here are some detangling tips to follow:

    • Spritz your hair with water to make it easier to work with
    • Finger detangle first before using detangling tools
    • Use the right detangling tool such as a wide tooth comb. Be careful with detangling brushes, sometimes they can rip out more hair then intended. You can always use a flexi detangling brush which glides with the direction of your hair
    • Use a detangler to give you extra slip. If you don’t have a detangler then use conditioner
    • Always works in sections – ideally 4 but if you have shorter hair then 6 to 8 
    moisture for 4C hair
    Source : Pexels

    2. Dry hair in stretched state

    This is KEY.  4C hair shrinks up to 70% of its stretched state so it’s important to dry hair stretched to minimise further pulling and tugging when it’s time to style your hair. Some benefits of working on stretched hair are as follows:

    • You can track your hair growth better
    • Minimises knots and tangles 
    • Minimises over manipulation from detangling 
    • Easier to work with 

    3. Moisture, moisture and more moisture

    We’ve all heard moisture is key to retain length for Type 4 hair textures. As 4C hair is naturally dry – you  want to spend more time moisturising your hair to prevent breakage tangles and knots. Ideally you’ll want to use a method that helps lock in the moisture for longer such as the LOC or LCO method. Your hair porosity will determine which method is better, click here to read our post on Hair Porosity which gives you a breakdown on how to do a porosity test!

    4. Scalp massages

    “Research conducted back in 2016 and 2019 found that regular scalp massages led to thicker hair strands. The study was conducted on 9 men who spent 4 mins a day massaging their scalp over a 24 week period. The results found a significant increase in hair thickness at the 24 week mark compared to when they initially started.”1

    Scalp massages are known to increase the blood flow into your hair follicles supporting you to achieve hair growth goals. Although it might be difficult to do this daily, you’ll want to incorporate it into your routine at least a couple times a week. You can use your finger tips or purchase a head massager. If you’d like to take this a step further then you can massage your scalp with a growth oil. The length of time you spend massaging your scalp also has a part to play. To increase the blood flowing to your follicles do it for at least 5 minutes for optimal results. 

    Source : GIPHY

    5. Heat is not the enemy

    We’ve all heard not to use heat as it damages hair but the truth is heat is not the enemy. Excessive heat styling is the enemy!  As 4C hair is fine and can break easily – you’ll definitely want to minimise the amount of times you heat but there is no harm in using it on wash days. Specifically blow drying your hair on a low heat setting to get it fully stretched. You’ll want to limit your heat usage to once or twice a month and use a heat protectant. Don’t be heavy handed when blow drying. There are a lot of straight naturals whose hair are thriving from using heat in moderation. It’s all about how you maintain the style and do not go back in to blow dry or straighten everyday. 

    I recently received some feedback from my hairstylist who recommended I use heat to blow dry my hair as I wasn’t retaining enough of my new  growth with my regular air drying method. I usually air dry with twists but it shrinks in a shrunken state which leads to me having to spend more time detangling when styling my hair leading to more hair loss. I’ve noticed my hair is a lot easier to style once dry. If you’ll be using a blow dry I recommend doing it once or twice a month on a low setting and you can follow up with higher heat setting for a short while to minimise your heat usage. 

    6. Protective styling 

    This is key for retaining your length. Protective styles help keep your ends tucked away and minimises over manipulation from daily styling. The great thing about these styles is there are multiple options available depending on your preference. To make the most of your 4C Natural hair growth,  it’s best to opt for cornrow based hair styles if possible as your hair is completely protected underneath. Styles such as sew-ins,  cornrows with or without braiding hair and crochet braids are some fan favourites. If you prefer other styles, you can try the following;

    • Braids (avoid medium sized braids) 
    • Mini Twists (with or without extensions) 
    • Bantu knots
    • Flat Twists
    • African Threading 
    Source : Pexels

    Regardless of the style you choose, don’t keep your style in for longer than 8 weeks! Have you ever worn a protective style for too long and noticed build up, dryness and difficulty detangling your hair? Well that’s because you’ve kept the style in for too long and probably didn’t have a natural hair care routine whilst wearing the style. As most protective styles utilise some form of extensions – you want to ensure you’re not wearing them for too long so it’s not adding tension to your hairline but also give you an opportunity to fully cleanse your hair and get rid of dead hair that has been trapped in the style.

    7. Create a protective styling regimen

    Protective styling doesn’t mean you shouldn’t wash or cleanse your hair. In fact, for 4C natural hair to grow – it’s important to have a clean scalp so your hair can thrive. Adopting little things such as moisturising regularly, washing your scalp and sealing your hair with an oil prevents your hair from drying out and helps your hair remain healthy. Depending on the style you choose, you’re likely to have different maintenance routine but here are a couple options you can adopt to help you out:

    1. Wash hair at least every 3 to 4 weeks
    2. Spritz hair with a leave-in conditioner at least once a week and seal with an oil. If you have a cream based leave in conditioner, you can mix it with water in a spray bottle to create a liquid mixture
    3. Use a growth oil but be careful not clog up your follicles. Your scalp naturally produces oils so you don’t want to be too heavy handed with the amount you apply. Start with once a week and then decide if you should do it more or less depending on your hair needs. Also, make sure you massage the oil into your scalp
    4. Take extra care with your edges. If you feel the style is adding too much tension to your hairline then it’s best to take it out to minimise any damage.

    8. Take a break in between protective styling

    Doing the same protective styling back to back is not the best way to achieve hair growth. You want to give your hair a break in between styles and let your scalp breath. Although protective styling is great for hair retention and hair growth, most of the styles add tension to your hairline which will make it slightly fragile. Opt for different styles in between the breaks such as buns, twist outs and braid outs to give your hair a break prior to installing your next style.

    Source : Unsplash

    10. Cleansing routine

    Wash days can be a pain at times but it’s important to have a clean scalp for your 4C hair to grow. Unfortunately the myth of dirty hair helping hair grow isn’t true! Think about it like this – you won’t go days without washing your face because it’ll lead to clogged up pores, irritation and you’ll eventually end up with pimples and spots. Well the same applies to your hair. If you spend so much attention and care on your skin regimen then you need to do the same for your scalp. Dirt clogs up hair follicles, leads to itchiness and irritation – you want to make sure your scalp and hair is in the best condition to create an environment for your hair to thrive.

    9. Trim ends regularly 

    Don’t skip trimming your ends! It’s as simple as that! Try and trim your hair every 12 weeks. If your hair is already damaged you might do it a bit more regularly such as the 8 – 10 week mark to get rid of any split ends and damage sooner. If your hair is healthy and you’ll like to stretch your trims a bit longer then don’t go past the 16 week mark. You’ll figure out what works best for you once you start incorporating trims into your regimen. Read our article on the benefits of trimming for length retention to learn more.

    11. Don’t be a product junkie

    We’ve all been guilty of doing this at one point during our natural hair journey. Trust me I’ve been there – buying things because one Naturalista says it works for them, you try it and don’t have the same results and then it sits on the shelf for years. When choosing products, try products that are recommended from other 4C Naturalistas. If possible purchase a tester bottle or the smallest size to see how your hair reacts. Pay attention to whether the products you’re using cause more drying or excessive build up to know if you should continue or not.

    One of the things that was a game changer for me was paying attention to how my hair reacted to products after I used it to decide if I should continue or not. There are so many options on the market, you’ll find something that works for you. Once you do, stick to it and you’ll begin to see a difference.

    Natural Hair Growth / Natural Hair Products
    Source : iStock by GettyImages

    12. Deep conditioning treatments

    4C hair benefits a lot from deep conditioning due to the coil pattern drying out easily. They add extra nourishment and hydration to your hair whilst strengthening your hair cuticles. Definitely apply heat when doing the treatment to help the product penetrate deep into your hair shaft. Do this at least once a month and to get the full benefits. Read our guide on deep conditioning for type 4 hair and if you’re interested in DIY recipes then check out this article on homemade deep conditioners to try for natural hair. 

    13. Make sure hair isn’t too tight

    As you’ll be wearing protective styles regularly to retain length, you want to make sure your hairstyle isn’t too tight. Especially when wearing buns and ponytail styles. Speak up during your appointments when getting braids or twists – if the stylist is braiding too tightly tell them right away instead of waiting to the end. You want to avoid any excessive tension that will lead to hair loss and eventually lead to alopecia. This is why cornrow based protective styles tend to be a better option for hair growth.

    15. Pay attention to your scalp

    We regularly ignore our scalp in comparison to our hair. 4C hair growth begins at the scalp as that’s where the follicles are based so it’s important to pay attention to your scalp and assess it. If you experience excessive itchiness, dryness or flakes then it might be worth doing a scalp treatment to help eradicate the problem. There are multiple scalp treatments on the market so do your research and if you’re unsure then go to a natural hair salon who specialises in type 4 hair who can give you some advice on what treatment to try.

    14. Protect your hair at night

    This is a golden rule, sleep with a silk or satin scarf AND/OR bonnet. If you struggle with your scarf staying on all night then you can purchase a silk or satin pillowcase for added protection. Cotton pillowcases are known for drying out hair whilst silk pillowcases help keep moisture in your coils/curls for longer. Satin pillowcases too, tend to be significantly cheaper than silk but it won’t retain moisture as well as silk. 

    Silk / Satin
    Source : Pexels

    Bonus tip – Diet and Health!

    It’s always good to maintain a good diet, you want to ensure you’re nourished from the inside out. Eating a balanced diet of healthy foods such as vegetables, lean meats and fish will contribute to you achieving your 4C natural hair growth goals. Hair is made of protein and for your 4C natural hair to thrive you need a balance of protein and moisture. Increasing your protein intake can contribute to hair growth and healthy hair. 

    FAQS

    1: What helps 4C hair grow faster?

    Hair growth begins with your scalp and various factors can contribute to how fast it grows such as genetics, eating habits and supplements. As a result, some 4C Naturals hair will grow faster than others. The key to 4C hair growth is a consistent regimen that helps you maintain healthy hair and retain length. Some things that can help speed up your hair growth such as scalp massages and using supplements like biotin. You can also use hair growth oils such as Jamaican black castor oil and rosemary oil but remember consistency is key! Don’t use these things in isolation and they must be used over a lengthy period of time i.e 3 to 6 months to see results. Incorporate them with some of the 15 tips we mentioned above and you’ll see an improvement.

    2: Is 4C hair the hardest to grow?

    4C hair is naturally dry, fragile and brittle in comparison to other hair types which means it is prone to breakage and damage. The coils clump together and you experience a significant amount of shrinkage which makes it appear like your hair isn’t growing even though it is. The hardest part of hair growth for any Type 4 hair is length retention! Your hair is growing but due to styling and over manipulation – you’re probably not holding onto enough of your new growth which is why protective styling and detangling with care are key contributors to 4c hair growth. 

    3: Why is my 4C natural hair always dry?

    Due to the nature of the 4C coil pattern being really tight. Moisture can have a hard time penetrating through the hair strands making your hair appear dry and brittle. Getting the adequate amount of moisture into your 4C hair strands will keep it from drying out. Incorporating treatments like deep conditioning and hot oil treatments will help with moisture retention. But it’s also important to moisturise your hair regularly – depending on your hair porosity you can use the LOC or LCO methods to help the moisture stay in your strands for longer. It’s also important to use the right ingredients which have enough hydration. Using oils and butters alone will not moisturise your hair – it’ll just sit on top.

    4: Should you moisturise 4c hair everyday?

    You can definitely moisturise your 4C hair daily but just be mindful of over moisturising as it’ll make your hair limp and mushy if you don’t have the right moisture/protein balance. Personally, I would recommend moisturising every couple of days if you’re suffering from extreme dryness. This is why you have to be mindful of what hair products you use. When testing products, see how your hair reacts to it. Ask yourself: “Is it drying my hair out OR does it just sit on top of my hair strands?” AND “Does my hair feel moisturised and hydrated?”


    There is no harm in refreshing your hair daily with a spray bottle that contains a mixture of water and leave in conditioner. Just be mindful that if you’ve sealed your hair with an oil or butter – it might not penetrate all the way through. Read our post on moisturising vs sealing oils to understand which one you should incorporate into your moisturising routine.

    Check out this video to learn more about when and how to moisturise 4C natural hair:

    FINAL THOUGHTS

    As you can see, maintaining, growing and retaining 4C hair requires a variety of different elements incorporated into your hair regimen for your hair to thrive. The key is consistency and patience. If you try one of the tips and it doesn’t work for you then it’s okay to drop it. You have to trust the process and give yourself a bit of time to see results. Remember – your hair is beautiful, enjoy the process and embrace the journey. You can’t change the hair on your head but you can grow to love it by knowing how to care for it properly.

    We hope this post helped you, we’d love to hear from you in the comment section.

    What’s been your biggest struggle with your 4C hair growth journey? OR What have you found most useful and helpful to achieve your 4C hair growth goals?

    REFERENCES

    1. Standardized Scalp Massage Results in Increased Hair Thickness by Inducing Stretching Forces to Dermal Papilla Cells in the Subcutaneous Tissue : Taro Koyama, PHD, MD, Kazuhiro Kobayashi MD, Takanori Hama, Kasumi Murakami and Rei Ogawa, PHD, MD. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4740347/ ↩︎
  • Easy Homemade Deep Conditioners to try for Natural Hair 

    Easy Homemade Deep Conditioners to try for Natural Hair 

    Deep conditioning treatments are an essential part of many Naturalista’s hair care routine. It’s that one treat your hair will thank you for once done because of its nourishing, hydrating and moisturising benefits. With natural hair care costs being more expensive compared to our counterparts. There’s no surprise homemade deep conditioners have become increasingly popular. They’re easy to make, significantly cheaper and give you more control on what ingredients you apply to your hair and scalp.

    We’ll give you a run down on the best ingredients to include in your homemade deep conditioners and some recipes to help your natural hair thrive. If you’re not a fan of DIY and prefer a ready made product, then read our post on Top 8 Deep Conditioners to try for Type 4 hair. 

    How do you make deep conditioner for natural hair at home? 

    The process is pretty simple, all you need is a blender or whisk, some containers and the right ingredients. The process shouldn’t take too long and if you like you can batch create the conditioners and store them away. Depending on the ingredients you’ll be using, you may have to store them in the fridge to keep them from going bad. 

    What are the best ingredients for homemade deep conditioners for natural hair?

    The ingredients you choose will vary depending on your hair needs. Regardless of what deep conditioner you decide to make, you’ll either opt for one with moisturising or protein benefits. Or you can opt for one with a balance of both. The most common ingredients included in most homemade deep conditioners include;

    • Avocados : Rich in vitamins and biotin which helps strengthen, moisturise and repair your hair leaving it looking healthy and shiny
    • Shea Butter : It’s full of fatty acids and anti-inflammatory properties. Which helps hydrate your hair and minimises frizz leaving you with healthy looking kinks, coils and curls.
    • Coconut Milk : Another ingredient full of fatty acids and moisturising benefits. It helps restore your hair and scalp whilst nourishing and protecting damaged strands from breakage.
    • Yoghurt : Rich in vitamins and nutrients which helps revive limp and dry hair. It also has anti-inflammatory benefits which is great for treating dandruff and strengthening your hair follicles.
    • Mayonnaise : Contains protein and great for restoring damaged, dry and brittle hair. It’s quite oily as it contains vegetable oil but it’s great for adding that extra shine and leaving your hair soft. 
    • Honey : A natural humectant which helps hair retain moisture. It adds a nice slip to the product making it easy to apply but also leaves your hair feeling soft and aids with detangling.
    • Eggs : Mainly used for strengthening treatments due to its high protein content protecting your hair strands and preventing breakage. Some naturals have raved about eggs’ ability to promote hair growth but results may vary.
    • Oils : Great for adding extra shine and helping lock in moisture. They have additional wide ranging benefits which will vary depending on what oils you use. 

    TIP – purchase organic ingredients, they’re less likely to have any added chemicals in them and you want to be using the best ingredients when making homemade deep conditioners.

    What oils to use in homemade deep conditioners for natural hair?

    It’s best to use lightweight oils with moisturising benefits to help the ingredients penetrate through the hair shaft. Moisturising oils are known for their ability to penetrate through the inner and outer layers, helping you preserve moisture inside your hair follicles and preventing it from leaving. This makes it a great option for deep conditioning treatments as opposed to sealing oils. Which are known for sitting on top of the hair strands locking out moisture.

    Lightweight oils

    Here are list of oils you’ll want to choose ; 

    • Olive Oil 
    • Avocado Oil
    • Coconut Oil 
    • Peppermint oil 
    • Rosemary Oil 
    • Castor or JBCO Oil (this is a sealing oil but works great in deep conditioners too)

    Click here to learn more about moisturising vs sealing oils and when to use them.

    5 homemade deep conditioners for natural hair 

    1. Avocado & Honey Deep Conditioner 

    Great for all Type 4’s (4A, 4B & 4C) and helps prevent damage and breakage whilst strengthening your natural hair. It has multiple moisturising benefits and helps eliminate frizz. 

    Homemade Deep Conditioner for Natural Hair

    Ingredients 

    • 1 Avocado 
    • ½ a cup of Coconut Milk
    • 2 Tablespoons of Honey 
    • 1 Tablespoon of Olive Oil 

    How to Make?

    1. Break the avocado into smaller pieces to make blending easier
    2. Put the avocado, honey and coconut milk into the blender
    3. Pulse the blender until it become slightly smooth and then add the olive oil
    4. Blend the mixture again until it has a smooth consistency
    5. Voila! Your deep conditioner is ready to use 
    6. Apply to length of your hair and let it sit for at least 30 mins before rinsing

    2. Banana & Coconut Oil Deep Conditioner

    Bananas contain potassium and lots of vitamins which will help improve the overall health of your hair. It’s also great for those who suffer from itchiness and dandruff. 

    Homemade Deep Conditioner

    Ingredients

    • 2 – 3 overripe bananas 
    • 2 tablespoons of honey 
    • 1 tablespoon of coconut oil 

    How to Make?

    1. Peel the bananas and mash with a fork 
    2. Melt the coconut oil over a stove or in the microwave 
    3. Place the mashed bananas, coconut oil and honey into a blender
    4. Blend the mixture until you achieve a smooth consistency
    5. Voila! Your deep conditioner is ready to use 
    6. Apply to length of your hair and let it sit for at least 30 mins before rinsing

    TIP – if you suffer from extreme itchiness then massage into your scalp before letting the mixture sit.

    3. Mayonnaise & Egg Deep Conditioner – Great for damaged, dry, colour treated and brittle hair

    Great for damaged and brittle hair. Especially if you’ve experienced damage from heat, hair dye or bleaching. Both mayonnaise and eggs are high in protein which will act as a strengthening treatment. It helps strengthen your hair and reverse damage whilst adding thickness. 

    Homemade Deep Conditioner for Natural Hair

    Ingredients

    • 1 cup of mayonnaise
    • 2 large eggs
    • 1 tablespoon of honey
    • 1 tablespoon of olive oil (this is optional, mayonnaise contains a lot of vegetable oil so only use if needed) 

    How to Make?

    1. Place the mayonnaise into a mixing bowl
    2. Crack the 2 eggs and whip into the mayonnaise
    3. Add the honey to the mixture and mix until you achieve a smooth consistency 
    4. If mixture is dry, add the olive oil and give it a mix
    5. Voila! Your deep conditioner is ready
    6. Apply to length of your hair and let it sit for at least 30 mins before rinsing

    4. Shea Butter & Avocado Deep Conditioner

    Avocado and Shea Butter are both rich in fatty acids and have great moisturising benefits. This is a rich mixture so you’ll need more oils for a smooth consistency. This is great for all Type 4’s (4A, 4B, 4C) especially if you’re experiencing dryness or just want to give your coils and curls extra hydration.

    Homemade Deep Conditioner for Natural Hair

    Ingredients

    • ½ to ¾ cup Shea Butter depending on your hairs length
    • 1 Avocado
    • 3 tablespoon of coconut oil
    • 1 tablespoon of rosemary oil
    • 1 tablespoon of olive oil

    Other: depending on your hairs needs you can opt for other oils such as tea tree oil, castor oil, JBCO, argan oil etc. you can experiment with different oils with this mixture – the choice is yours!

    How to Make?

    1. Melt the shea butter and mash the avocado
    2. Place them in a blender and pulse until it becomes slightly smooth
    3. Melt the coconut oil and add to the mixture
    4. Add the olive and rosemary to the blender and mix until you achieve a smooth consistency 
    5. Voila! Your deep conditioner is ready
    6. Apply to length of your hair and let it sit for at least 30 mins before rinsing

    5. Greek Yoghurt and Banana Deep Conditioner 

    Yoghurt is cheap but has many benefits for your natural hair. Just make sure you pick a plain yoghurt with no added extras. You can either use plain or greek yoghurt depending on your preference. Regular yoghurt is great for moisture treatments whilst greek yoghurt is great for protein treatments. 

    Homemade Deep Conditioner for Natural Hair

    Ingredients 

    • 1 cup of plain or greek yoghurt
    • 1 – 2 ripe bananas
    • 1 tablespoon of honey 
    • 2 – 3 tablespoons of olive oil 

    How to Make?

    1. Mash the banana 
    2. Mix the mashed banana with the yoghurt
    3. Add honey and olive oil to the mixture and whisk until smooth 
    4. Voila! Your deep conditioner is ready
    5. Apply to length of your hair and let it sit for at least 30 mins before rinsing

    How long will the benefits last?

    You should start feeling the benefits of your deep conditioning treatment from the moment you rinse out the product. This typically lasts anything from 2 – 4 weeks but consistency is the key to experience long-lasting benefits. Aim to deep condition your hair at least once a month. It may feel like a time consuming process but trust me, your hair will thank you in the long run. If you’re experiencing dryness or damage then try and do it every 2 weeks until you see improvements to the health of your hair. If you don’t have time then use a heat cap or steamer to speed up the process. 

    Deep conditioning Tips for Natural Hair 

    • Start of with freshly washed and detangled hair
    • Comb or brush the product through your hair to ensure its evenly distributed across the length of your hair 
    • Always use heat to help open up your hair cuticles and let the ingredients penetrate 
    • Let it sit for at least 30 mins – 1 hour
    • Don’t overload on protein and moisture treatments, alternate between the 2 depending on your hair needs. You’re hair needs moisture more than protein so it’s likely you’ll be doing the moisture treatments more often
    • Ensure the product has been thoroughly been rinsed out with lukewarm water
    • Always apply leave in conditioner after treatment 

    Final Thoughts 

    Making homemade deep conditioners for your natural hair helps you customise treatments to suit your hair needs. It allows you to tackle the problem you’re facing at that point in time i.e. heat damage, itchy scalp, dry hair etc. It’s also fun to make your own treatments and experiment from time to time. We’ve included some recipes if you’re not sure on what deep conditioner to make and if you like, feel free to add additional ingredients where you see fit.

    Have you tried making your own homemade deep conditioner? What’s your go-to recipe?

  • Moisturizing vs Sealing Oils – What’s the better option?

    Moisturizing vs Sealing Oils – What’s the better option?

    It’s easy to be confused about what hair oils to incorporate into your natural hair care routine. With so many oils on the market, it makes it difficult to figure out what oils to choose. Some oils act as a moisturizing agent whilst other oils work as a sealing agent. They both add great benefits to help you achieve healthy luscious locks. But what one should you be using? Moisturizing vs Sealing oils? This is the question many naturals ask but may not fully understand.

    In this article, we’ll be breaking down the differences between the two types of oils to help you understand what to use and when. 

    Why Oils form an Important part of your hair journey?

    Our scalp naturally produces oils, otherwise known as sebum which helps hydrate and protect our hair follicles. Studies show “sebum secretion can be normal, reduced or increased on the scalp of afro textured hair. But our curl pattern can impair the normal distribution of natural oils along the hair shaft from root to tip, giving it a dull and dry look.”1 Which is why using hair oils can help with the additional distribution of the essential oils along the length of your hair strands. 

    Incorporating hair oils into your natural hair routine improves the overall health of your hair. Some of these benefits include;

    • Strengthening your hair strands and cuticles
    • Support with moisture retention
    • Minimising the risk of breakage 
    • Promoting hair growth 
    • Reduces frizziness 
    • Adds extra shine 

    You can incorporate oils into your hair in many ways. It’s highly likely you’ve used oils for pre-poo treatments, hot oil treatments, sealing your ends and oiling your scalp. But it’s important to use the correct oils to get optimum results. Regardless of what treatment you’re doing, you’ll be using a moisturizing or sealing oil. Let’s delve into them in a bit more detail.

    moisturizing vs sealing oils

    What are moisturizing oils?

    Moisturizing oils penetrate right through the hair shaft to hydrate and moisturize your hair. It has the ability to penetrate through the inner and outer layers, helping you preserve moisture inside your hair follicles and preventing it from leaving. These types of oils support moisture retention and help strengthen your hair whilst reducing the possibility of breakage. You’re more likely to use these oils for hair treatments.

    What are sealing oils?

    Sealing oils lock in moisture and stop it from leaving your hair strands by sealing it in. They work a little differently to moisturizing oils, as the oils sit on top of the hair strands as opposed to entering the hair shaft. These oils act as a layer of protection to keep moisture in and stop it from evaporating. They tend to be slightly thicker in texture in comparison to moisturizing oils and usually used as a last step in your hair maintenance routine. You’re more likely to use these oils for daily styling and hair maintenance

    Examples of Moisturizing VS Sealing Oils

    Moisturizing vs Sealing Oils

    When to use moisturizing vs sealing oils?

    Moisturizing oils are best used for hair treatments due to its penetrating effects whilst sealing oils are best for every day styling and maintenance to lock in that moisture and keep it from escaping. Let’s talk about some treatments to help you understand how this works in reality! 

    Hot oil treatments : 

    Hot oil treatments are typically used in colder months and helps add extra shine and moisture to your hair. As the oil is warm or hot when applying, it penetrates through the hair shaft quickly as the heat helps open up the hair cuticles. This helps strengthen your hair follicles keeping your hair protected and hydrated. As the treatment is focussed on achieving moisture benefits – its best to use a moisturizing oil.

    Pre-poo/Pre shampoo treatments : 

    Preppoo treatments act as moisturizing treatment which is applied to the scalp prior to shampooing your hair. Using oils with moisturizing benefits helps prepare your hair for cleansing. The oils protect your hair & scalp from being stripped from its natural oils (sebum) when using shampoos which can sometimes be harsh on your coils & curls. Without it, your hair could become extremely dry which could lead to breakage, tangles and knots. Using a moisturizing oil is best for pre-pooing due to its ability to penetrate through the shaft whilst sealing oils might be too heavy and may affect your hair from reaping the full benefits of the treatment. 

    LOC vs LCO Method : 

    When using the LOC method, you’ll want to opt for a moisturizing oil as opposed to a sealing oil as you still need to apply your cream afterwards. Sealing oils are good at keeping moisture out. And if you’re applying your cream last – you’ll be locking out all the moisture and hydration benefits. 

    With the LCO method, you’re applying the oil last after you’ve applied the liquid and cream so you’ll be using a sealing oil on this occasion. The oil acts like a sealant for the liquid and cream helping you keep your hair moisturized for longer. Want to learn more about LOC vs LCO? Click here 

    Braid Outs & Twist Outs :

    When doing braid outs and twists out, you’ve probably used a leave-in conditioner, curl cream or pudding and/or mousse. All these products have moisturizing and hydration ingredients that help your hair become soft and easy to style. Whilst giving it a nice bounce afterwards. In this case, you want to use a sealing oil to lock in the moisture helping the style last longer. You can always do a refresh in between but it’s likely you’ll be rocking the style for at least 5 days and the sealing oil acts as a film to lock in the moisture for that duration.

    moisturizing vs sealing oils

    Summary re; Moisturizing vs Sealing Oils

    Moisturizing oils penetrate deep into your hair and get right inside your hair shaft. It works well with water based products due to its penetrating effects and helps nourish and hydrate your hair from the inside out. Always opt for these oils when doing hair treatments that are focussed on hydrating your hair. 

    Sealing oils are layered on top of your hair after you’ve finished moisturizing and hydrating your hair. The oil acts as a sealant to lock in all the moisture you’ve worked so hard to get into your hair strands. It’s important to note that it also locks out any new moisture from getting into your hair strands. Which is why you should always use it as a last step in your moisture routine. 

    FAQ’s re; Moisturizing vs Sealing Oils 

    1: How often should you moisturize and seal?

    Depending on the quality of the products you’re using, you should be moisturizing your hair every 3 – 7 days. Everyone’s hair is different and some may be drier than others so you’ll need a bit of trial and error to figure out if it should be slightly less or more. In between washes, you can always spritz your hair with water and follow up with your moisturizer. Just remember that sealing oils act as a film and will stop any new moisture from entering the hair shaft. So only moisturize and seal when you need to as opposed to daily to stop any build up of product sitting on your hair.

    2: Can you over moisturize your hair? AND What does moisture overload look like?

    The simple answer is YES – you can definitely over moisturize your hair. Having a balance of moisture and protein is vital for healthy hair. You won’t need to use protein as often but it’s good to incorporate it into your routine every 1 to 2 months depending on your hair needs. You’ll know if you’re experiencing moisture overload because your hair will feel limp, mushy and overly soft. You can also tell from your curl pattern as it’ll struggle to hold shape and lack definition. A quick fix is doing a protein treatment or a clay mask which will help detoxify your hair and support the restructure of the cuticles. Remember, protein strengthens your hair and gives it structure. Whilst moisture is equally as important to minimize dryness and breakage. Having the right moisture and protein balance will help your hair thrive.

    3: Is Argan Oil a moisturizing or sealing oil?

    Argan oil has both moisturizing and sealing benefits. It’s known for penetrating, coating and lubricating your hair whilst protecting it from harsh chemicals. Argan oil is rich in vitamins such as vitamin A, C and E but also loaded in antioxidants and fatty acids. It’s more expensive than other oils bearing in mind its richness but great for scalp and hair care. It basically offers you the best of both worlds in comparison to other oils.

    4: Is shea butter moisturizer or sealant?

    Shea butter helps seals in moisture and softens the hair. It’s a sealant and not a moisturizer but some people confuse it as a moisturizer because it makes your hair feel more hydrated when applied giving you the illusion of moisture. Shea butter contains butter which seals water based products into the hair but doesn’t hydrate it. It’s filled with fatty acids which helps enhance hydration by reducing evaporation. Shea butter can be found in many products such as deep conditioners, hair creams and treatments. Although it’s a sealant, it also has hydrating benefits due to its water binding properties. So if you do decide to use it as a moisturizer, it’s best to mix it with other ingredients to get the best out of it. 

    Final Thoughts 

    We hope this clarifies everything you need to know re; moisturizing vs sealing oils. Oils are a great way of achieving moisture retention in between hair treatments, daily hair maintenance and styling. They’re designed to add moisture and shine to your hair and scalp whilst helping you lock that moisture in for long periods of time. The key is to use the right oils! It’s easy to remember what oil does what via the name i.e. Moisturizing = moisture and Sealing = sealant. Just do some research on oils that fall into the two categories before picking them. We’ve named the most popular ones in the article but feel free to experiment with other oils and if you like you can mix essential oils together to create your own mix.

    SOURCES

    1. Black women’s hair: the main scalp dermatoses and aesthetic practices in women of African ethnicity. Tanus A, Oliveira CCC, Villarreal DJV, Sanchez FAV, Dias MFRG. An Bras Dermatol. 2015;90(4):450-67.
      https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4560533/ ↩︎
  • LOC vs LCO Method! Which one should you choose?

    LOC vs LCO Method! Which one should you choose?

    Getting moisture into your hair strands is a key component for maintaining healthy natural hair. It’s no surprise Type 4 Hair is prone to dryness and you’ll need to adopt moisture retention techniques into your natural hair regimen. You’ll also need to pay close attention to the ends of your hair which is likely to be dull, brittle and break easily due to wear and tear. The LOC & LCO methods are a way of getting that much needed moisture back into your hair strands whilst locking it in.

    You’ve probably heard of the LOC or LCO method at some point during your natural hair journey but may not be 100% sure on what method is best for you. Both methods utilise the same products which can cause some confusion. The main difference between the two methods is the layering and application process of your hair products.

    So which one is better for your hair? In this article we’ll cover everything you need to know re; the LOC VS LCO method to help you decide what method to incorporate into your hair regimen. The good news is you can use either method but one method might favour your hair more depending on your hair density, type and porosity. 

    What is the LOC & LCO Method?

    LOC stands for liquid first, oil second and cream last. Whilst LCO stands for liquid first, cream second and oil last. Both methods use the same components starting with liquid. But the main difference is the second and third step swap places. The methods are known for hydrating your hair whilst ensuring the moisture has fully penetrated through to your hair shaft by sealing it with a cream and oil.

    Let’s delve into the definitions in a bit more detail to give you a better understanding of how they work together.

    LIQUID

    This is the first step in the LCO & LCO method. You can use a liquid or leave-in conditioner but make sure the product you choose is water based. Reason being, is you want your hair to be fully hydrated and ensure an adequate amount of moisture has entered into the strands before following up with the next steps. Moisture is every naturals friend and without it your hair will become dry and brittle leading to excessive breakage. If you’re struggling to find a liquid based leave in conditioner then feel free to just use water! Water is an easy way to hydrate your hair and acts as a moisturising agent.

    OIL

    This is the second step in the LOC method & third step in the LCO method. The oil acts as a sealing agent to lock the moisture into your hair strands and prevent it from leaving. In simple terms, it helps keep your hair moisturised for longer. Depending on your hair porosity – you’ll need to be careful with what oils you use as some can be heavier than others. We’ll cover this in a bit more detail in the section below to help you decide what type of oils to use.

    CREAM

    This is the third step in the LOC method and second step in the LCO method. In most cases the cream is a water based product which also contains oils and butters. Although the cream can act as a sealing agent due to the oils & butters in the mixture. It also has hydrating benefits which adds that extra nourishment to your strands. It tends to be thicker and denser in consistency in comparison to other products you’ll be using to hydrate your strands.

    LOC VS LCO METHOD

    How Hair Porosity Can Impact the Method you Choose?

    Both the LOC and LCO method are great ways of increasing moisture retention. Although, both have similarities – it’s best to choose a method that aligns to your hair needs and goals to reap the full benefits. Luckily, either method works well with Type 4 hair regardless of if you’re a Type 4A, B OR C Naturalista. But hair porosity has a significant part to play when choosing a method to adopt into your hair regimen.

    Porosity is an indicator of how easily moisture can penetrate through your hair shaft. You’ll either have high, normal or low hair porosity. As a rule of thumb, the LOC method is typically best for high to medium porosity hair whilst the LCO method is best for low to medium porosity hair. Here’s WHY?

    HIGH POROSITY

    High porosity hair tends to have difficulty retaining moisture due its loose cuticles. This makes it easy for moisture to penetrate through the hair shaft but also makes it very easy for moisture to leave. This makes it difficult and challenging for Naturals with high porosity hair to retain moisture. Using the LOC method will help moisture stay in your hair shaft for longer. The oil acts as a sealant to keep the moisture from evaporating whilst the cream seals and locks in the moisture for added protection.

    LOW POROSITY 

    Low porosity hair on the other hand has difficulty absorbing moisture due to its tight cuticles. Water tends to sit on the hair strands as opposed to penetrating through the hair shaft. The good thing is that once your hair is fully hydrated – the moisture tends to stay in and doesn’t easily evaporate. The cream helps add that extra hydration and moisture into the shafts whilst the oil acts as a sealant to lock it all in.

    MEDIUM POROSITY 

    Medium porosity hair is a mix of both worlds as its cuticles are looser than low porosity but tighter than high porosity. This makes it easy for moisture to penetrate through the hair shaft but also means it stays in for a good period of time. With normal porosity – you can use either the LOC or LCO method depending on your preference.

    Hair Porosity Test
    Low, Medium, High Hair Porosity

    5 TIPs for getting the optimum moisture into your Hair Shaft 

    1. Start off with freshly washed hair using a moisturising shampoo. If you notice you have product build up then use a clarifying shampoo to ensure your hair is fully clean
    2. Follow up with a deep conditioning treatment. Using heat will help the product penetrate through your hair strands so you can reap the full benefits of the treatment.
    3. Detangle your hair thoroughly to minimise any tangles or knots 
    4. Follow up with the LCO or LOC method – ensure your hair is damp prior to layering products
    5. Sleep with a silk or satin bonnet or pillowcase. Silk is known for helping keep moisture in compared to cotton which can be drying.

    Understanding Oils 

    With so many oils on the market, you’re probably wondering what oil is best to pick. High and Low porosity hair have different needs which means you have to be selective with what oil you choose to use. As high porosity hair loses moisture easily, you’ll need to pick a heavier oil to help seal in the moisture. Low porosity hair on the other has a harder time penetrating products so its best to use a lightweight oil to minimise build up.

    Examples of heavy oils : Olive oil, Castor oil, Coconut oil 

    Example of lightweight oils : Argan oil, Avocado oil, Jojoba oil

    LOC VS LCO method
    Source : GIPHY

    FAQ’s re; LOC & LCO Method

    1: Can I do the LOC OR LCO method everyday?

    It’s not advised to use the LOC or LCO method daily to minimise product build up. The purpose of the LOC and LCO method is to retain moisture in your hair strands which takes away the burden of doing it daily. Ideally, you want to be doing this method on wash days when your hair is thoroughly cleansed. It’s likely you’ll need to refresh your hair in between wash days to keep your hair moisturised. If this is the case then you can co-wash your hair or spritz your hair with water and follow through with the method of choice. 

    If you do opt for doing the method daily, you’ll need to use lightweight products and pay attention to build up. You may need to wash your hair more regularly i.e. every week as opposed to bi-weekly and incorporate a clarifying shampoo into your routine at least once a month. 

    2: How often should I do the LOC OR LCO method?

    Ideally, you want to be doing this method on wash days and then follow up with a refresh every 4 – 7 days. Now this will vary depending on your hair needs and styling preferences. For instance, if you’re rocking a wash n go – it’s likely you’ll need to refresh your hair more often as your hair is out compared to if you’re rocking a bun and your hair is tucked away. 

    If you’re new to the method then you might want to start doing it once a week and do a refresh mid-week. From there, you can measure how your hair responds and decide if you need to do it more or less regularly.

    3: How long does the LOC OR LCO method last?

    It lasts anything from 3 to 7 days. 

    4: Do you put curl cream or leave in conditioner first?

    Always apply your leave in conditioner first. Leave-in conditioners are designed to add moisture back into your hair shaft after washing. It also strengthens and protects your hair to make daily styling easier. Curl creams on the other hand enhances your curl pattern to define your curls, smooth away frizziness and give your hair that extra shine. Just be mindful with how much product you apply daily to minimise product build up. Overuse of product can cause your hair  to become lacklustre and brittle leading to breakage. 

    Final Thoughts

    Regardless of what method you choose. All steps work hand in hand for moisture retention and keeping your hair hydrated for longer.  We hope whatever method you choose, it helps with your hair goals of achieving healthy kinks, coils and curls. Pick one that works for you and if you feel you’re not getting the best results try the other method. This will help you identify if the LOC or LCO method works best. Another key factor to be aware of is being mindful of what products you choose to incorporate. Read the ingredients of the products to ensure they have hydrating benefits to keep your hair from drying out. 

    Have you tried the LOC or LCO method? Which one do your prefer and why?

  • How to relieve tight braids and treat braid bumps?

    How to relieve tight braids and treat braid bumps?

    Braids are many Naturalista’s go-to protective hairstyle. They’re are practical and you can literally wear them for every occasion including weddings, birthdays, holidays and everyday wear etc. With so many braid types on the market i.e. knotless, box braids, french curl braids etc and countless styling options. It’s no surprise they’re a favourite in the natural hair community. However, if not done correctly and braided too tightly to your scalp then you can experience braid bumps which are super uncomfortable but also damaging to your natural hair.

    Have you ever experience any of the following…

    • Got your braids done and struggled to get them up in a ponytail because of the tightness? 
    • Felt the braids pulling on your edges and hairline? 
    • Experienced headaches during the first couple of days of getting your braids done? 
    • Struggled to sleep on your braids because it hurts? 

    All the above are all signs of your braids being too tight. And even though braids should be attached closely to your scalp – it shouldn’t cause you discomfort. A protective style is meant to protect your hair not cause it further strain or damage. We’ll be covering everything you need to know about the causes of braid bumps, how to treat them plus tips on how to care for your scalp whilst wearing braids.

    Why do I get braid bumps when my hair is braided?

    The main cause of braid bumps are because your braids are too tight. Braiding your hair tightly causes tension to your hair follicles and scalp leading to inflammation. You’ll start to see little red or white bumps on your scalp which are itchy and irritable, specifically around your hairline or the nape of your hair. 

    These bumps are caused by damage to your hair follicles and are typically known as tension bumps or scalp folliculitis. Once damaged, your scalp will become vulnerable to a fungal or bacterial infection. This might be frightening to some but the good news is these bumps aren’t contagious. But it’s important to  treat them straight away to minimise it from spreading to other areas of your scalp.

    Although, tight braids are the main cause. You may experience braid bumps from other factors such as

    • Having a sensitive scalp
    • Irritation from chemicals from the braiding hair
    • Styling your hair too tightly 
    • Product build up
    • Your scalp is prone to dandruff
    Braid bumps on scalp

    How to treat and get rid of braid bumps? 

    It’s inevitable that you’ll experience braid bumps whilst wearing braids. Especially if braids are a regular part of your protective styling routine. The key is to treat them as soon as they appear to stop them from getting worse. Here are 5 things you can do to treat and get rid of braid bumps straight away.

    1. Release the tension along your hairline.

    It’s likely you’re experiencing the most tension around your hairline. Hairstylists tend to grip that part of your hair tightly due to the shortness of length and to stop the braids from falling out. If you’re confident with braiding your own hair then it’s best to take them out and re-do them. If you’re not confident then there’s no harm going back to your stylist and getting them to re-do it. To minimise tension in the future, speak up at your hair appointment and let your stylist know you experience bumps and don’t want the braids too tight. If they don’t listen then it’s worth trying another stylist who actually cares about your hair health as opposed to just the end look.

    2. Avoid putting your braids in a high ponytail or bun

    One of the reasons why braids are so appealing is because you can style them in many ways. Unfortunately, some of our favourite styles can lead to tension on the hairline eventually leading to bumps. You want to avoid putting your hair in a high tight ponytail or bun. Although the style looks great it could be adding more damage to your hair follicles, especially if you constantly have it up. Braids are heavier compared to your natural hair, having it up all the time pulls and tugs on your scalp leading to damage. Let your scalp breathe and have them down. If you really want to have it up then tie it loosely to minimise tension. You can always opt for human braiding hair which is lighter in comparison to synthetic but does come at a cost. 

    3. Massage the area with a lightweight oil. 

    Scalp massages will provide immediate pain relief and increase the blood circulation in the area. Massages are known to be soothing and good for alleviating tension. The key is to use a lightweight oil that will minimise build up but is also moisturising. Oils such as tea tree, peppermint and rosemary are known for aiding inflammation. They also have antiseptic or antimicrobial properties which can be used to treat the bumps and prevent them from getting worse.

    4. Try an antibacterial ointment

    You can purchase over the counter ointments which have been specifically created to treat folliculitis. These ointments have antibiotics which will treat bacteria and fungus quickly. Be sure to follow the instructions to ensure correct use and if you’re not sure on what product to purchase then speak to a pharmacist who will help diagnose the problem and find the best solution for you.

    5. Loosen braids 

    Loosening the braids is a great way of reducing the tension if you don’t want to completely remove the braids. You can do this by running the braids under warm water or using a steamer. This will open up the pores of your scalp whilst helping the braids to loosen. If you’re worried about your braids becoming frizzy, apply a mousse with a strong hold to keep them intact. 

    If all the above fail then it’s best to take the braids out! Although this is annoying, your hair health and scalp is more important. It’ll be frustrating in the short-term but in the long run you’ll be happy. A protective style is meant to aid hair retention and not damage it. 

    braid bumps haircare

    7 Tips for caring for your scalp whilst wearing braids to minimise braid bumps

    It’s easy to neglect your hair routine whilst wearing protective styles. You won’t need to follow all the steps in your normal routine but it’s good to create one dependant on your hairstyle. Here are some tips to help you care for your scalp and hair whilst wearing braids.

    1. Wash your braiding hair

    Washing your braiding hair is a good way of getting rid of the chemicals that may be in the extensions prior to installation. Extensions are made in factories across the world and can be hard to trace back to its country of origin and know exactly how the hair was prepared. A great way to clarify your braids is by doing an apple cider vinegar rinse. Dilute 1 cup of apple cider vinegar with 3 parts of warm or hot water and apply onto the braiding hair for at least 20 mins. Once 20 mins is up, rinse out thoroughly and let it air dry. If you’re someone who has a sensitive scalp then it’s even more important to follow this step.

    2. Don’t neglect your cleansing and moisturising routine

    Although your natural hair is braided up and protected, you should still cleanse and moisturise your hair. It might feel like a time consuming exercise but the goal is to keep your scalp and hair healthy whilst wearing braids to prevent damage when it’s time to remove them. Here are some steps to follow;

    • Step 1 – Dilute shampoo with water into a spray bottle or a bottle with a nozzle. Spray onto your scalp and use your fingers to massage the product through. Make sure you’re focussing on your scalp to remove any product build up.
    • Step 2 – Rinse shampoo out and apply conditioner. When rinsing, ensure all product used has been rinsed out thoroughly
    • Step 3 – Towel dry braids and air dry. You can always sit under a hooded dryer or blow dryer with a hooded bonnet attachment to make sure the roots dry and air dry the rest. The key here is to make sure braids are completely dry so it doesn’t have a mouldy damp smell. 
    • Step 4 – Follow up with a leave in conditioner or moisturiser and seal with an oil
    • Step 5 – Apply a mousse with strong hold if your worried about frizz

    If you’re not a fan of mixing shampoos and want to use a product which is easy to apply to your scalp with minimal mess. Then try some of our fav products which are known for removing product build up whilst keeping your scalp fresh and clean!

    1. African Pride Black Castor Miracle Braid & Scalp Cleansing Rinse
    2. Taliah Waajid Protective Styles Bamboo & Coconut Milk Shampoo
    3. Alikay Naturals Moisturizing Black Shampoo
    4. dpHUE Apple Cider Vinegar Hair Rinse

    The tutorial below shows you how to your hair in braids whilst minimising frizz.

    3. Keep an eye out for product build up

    You’re likely to have more build up than usual at the roots of your braids and edges. You’re probably using more edge control than usual and oiling your scalp regularly. If you notice build up and it’s not quite time for wash day. You can always cleanse the areas you’re experiencing build up to prevent it from getting worse. Get some cotton wool pads and dip it in warm or hot water, then rub it on your scalp to remove excess dirt and oil. You can always add a couple drops of shampoo into the water but make sure you follow up with another cotton pad with warm water to remove the shampoo from your scalp. Eliminating it straight away will prevent it from getting trapped under the roots of your hair and entwined with the braids. 

    4. Don’t wear your braids for too long

    Aim to keep your hair in braids for no longer than 8 – 10 weeks. If you decide to opt for slightly longer, make sure you’re keeping up with your hair maintenance routine. As your natural hair grows, your braids will naturally loosen and if you’re not careful you can end up pulling or tugging on your hair when styling which could lead to breakage. 

    5. Avoid scratching your scalp

    If you wear braids regularly then you’ll experience itchiness from time to time. You might have the urge to scratch your scalp but this could lead to further irritation. It’s best to massage the area with an oil or eliminate the cause of the itchiness by washing your hair. There isn’t one factor alone that causes itchiness but the main reasons are product build up, trapped dead skin cells and dry scalp. 

    6. Keep an eye out for braids on around your hairline

    The braids around your hairline tend to have the most tension causing bumps and irritation. It’s important to keep a close eye on this area so it doesn’t cause any damage. Braids around the hairline are prone to breakage and If you’re not careful could lead to traction alopecia. Re-do the braids If your braids are starting to feel uncomfortable or causing irritation due to tightness or being in for too long.

    7. Don’t forget your night time routine

    Don’t neglect your night time routine because you’re wearing braids. Sleeping with a satin or silk bonnet will help your braids stay fresher for longer but also help your hair strands to retain moisture. Watch the tutorial below for 2 ways to sleep with your braids.

    FAQ’s re: Caring for Braids

    1: What not to do when you take out your braids?

    When taking out your braids, PATIENCE is key! Don’t be heavy handed with the process and take your time to loosen them. Don’t rip the braids out of your hair and if you experience any tangles or knots. You can use a detangler or conditioner with a lot of slip to help loosen them. Prior to washing your hair, you want to ensure your hair is fully detangled so it doesn’t loc up. Finger detangle first and then follow up with a wide tooth comb or flexi brush. After washing, do a deep conditioning treatment to get moisture and nutrients back into your hair strands.

    2: Why am I losing hair after taking out my braids?

    Your hair sheds between 50 – 100 hairs per day. As your hair is in braids during a duration of 8 weeks or more, all your shed hair is trapped in your braids. So naturally you’ll experience more hair loss because the shed hairs had no wear to go. In extreme cases, you are losing hair because of breakage from not properly caring for your braids whilst wearing them. 

    3: How long should I keep my braids in? 

    The recommendation is 8 weeks. If you want to keep them in for slightly longer then don’t go past 10 – 12 weeks. You should never braid your hair back to back and have a break in between to give your natural hair time to breathe and recover.

    4: Will my hair grow back after tight braids?

    Yes – your hair will grow back with proper care. You’ll need to utilise a hair growth oil to aid hair growth and massage your scalp regularly to increase blood circulation. Be careful not to put strain on your hair follicles when trying to grow it back as your hair is fragile. Opt for protective styles that need minimal maintenance and keep up with your natural hair routine.

    NOTE – If you have traction alopecia as a result of constantly getting tight braids then it’s unlikely your hair will not grow back. 

    Final Thoughts

    If you experience braid bumps there’s no need to panic. There are a variety of ways to treat and get rid of them without them causing further damage to your hair. Prevention is better than cure in these scenario’s so find a stylist who cares about your scalp and hair health. Don’t be afraid to speak up at appointments if they feel too tight. There’s no harm trying a new stylist, ask family and friends for recommendations if you feel you’re not being listened too. Make you have a maintenance routine whilst wearing your braids and don’t forget to cleanse your scalp regularly to minimise build up.

    How do you care for your braids? And what additional tips do you have?

    Read our latest post on how braids contribute to hair growth and length retention.

  • Low Porosity Tips to Boost Your Natural Hair Routine

    Low Porosity Tips to Boost Your Natural Hair Routine

    When it comes to maintaining your natural hair, it’s important to identify what your hair needs to care for it in the right way. Identifying and understanding your hair porosity is equally as important as knowing your hair type. Regardless of if you’re Type 3 or 4 Naturalista – we all have different porosity types which will impact the products we choose to use and customise our natural hair routine to achieve our hair goals. Knowing your hair porosity (low, medium or high) and its characteristics will help you boost your natural hair regimen and ensure your hair is being treated with the right level of care.  

    Have you ever been in a situation where you’ve been trying viral hair products but not necessarily seeing the same results as everyone else? OR Does your hair feel like a product just sits on top of it as opposed to being absorbed through the hair strands? OR  Do you find that regardless of what products you use your hair always seems dry? Well, you’re not alone! Every Naturalista has encountered this at some point during their hair care journey and these problems arise based on your hairs ability to absorb and hold onto moisture.

    What is Low Porosity hair?

    Porosity is an indicator of how easily moisture can penetrate through your hair shaft. It’s mainly determined by genetics but other factors such as the use of heat and chemicals have a part to play. If you have low porosity hair, it means your hair is lacking moisture in comparison to medium and high porosity hair types. This is due to low porosity having a harder time absorbing and retaining moisture.

    Naturals with low porosity hair have tightly aligned hair cuticles which create a barrier for moisture to enter and penetrate through the strands. Their hair is also water resistant which can make it difficult to absorb moisture, water and hair products. 

    Here are 5 characteristics that will help you identify if you have low porosity hair;

    • It takes longer for your hair to get completely wet when saturated with water
    • Heat is required for moisture to penetrate through       
    • You have a high tendency for product build up   
    • Products tend to sit on top of the hair strands        
    • It takes longer to dry

    How to Know if you have Low Porosity Hair?

    It’s best to do a test to figure out your hair porosity. The process is pretty simple to follow and all you’ll need is a glass of water and a strand of hair. It’s best to do this test on freshly cleansed hair. Do not do this test on dirty hair as your results will not be accurate.

    Simply take a clean, product-free strand of loose hair and put it in a glass of water. If the hair floats to the top then it’s low porosity, if it sinks slowly or settles in the middle it is medium/normal porosity, and if it sinks straight to the bottom then it is high porosity. See diagram below;

    Hair Porosity Test
    Low, Medium, High Hair Porosity

    The results of the test will give you your answer. It’s also worth reviewing the characteristics we mentioned earlier to see if you relate. It’s likely you’ve been aware of the characteristics but didn’t know you had low porosity hair.

    How to Care for Low Porosity? Plus Steps to Implement into your Natural Hair routine

    Caring for low porosity natural hair can be frustrating at times. Especially because it repels water and natural hair requires hydration and moisture to thrive. In fact, it’s even more important to keep low porosity hair hydrated in comparison to other porosity types. But don’t panic…the good news is, there are several ways you can get moisture to penetrate through your hair strands. You’ll just have to work a little harder to get your hair fully hydrated by incorporating different methods/techniques. 

    We’ll give you a run down on the basics you’ll need to incorporate into your natural hair routine to ensure your low porosity hair is getting the moisture it needs. Note – even though you have the same porosity as other naturals, your hair might react differently so take your time to find the right routine and figure out what works best for you.

    How often should you cleanse/wash low porosity hair?

    Low porosity hair is prone to build up as products tend to sit on top of the hair rather than penetrate through the strands. As a result, you’ll need to clarify your hair regularly. The recommendation is typically every 1 – 2 weeks and ensure your hair is thoroughly clean by doing at least 2 rounds of shampooing. There will be weeks where you’ll have more buildup in between wash days depending on your styling options. So pay attention to signs of build up (i.e. residue, dry or itchy scalp, flakiness or dullness) once it appears and get rid of it.

    How do you moisturise low porosity hair?

    As low porosity struggles to take in moisture. You need to pay close attention to the ingredients in your products. Unfortunately, just piling on hair products won’t keep your hair moisturised. Instead, it’ll lead to product build up which is what you want to avoid. Use lightweight products without a lot of oils in order for the moisture to penetrate through the hair shaft. Products with film-forming humectants help your hair retain water and then follow through with a light oil to seal in the moisture.

    How to grow low porosity hair?

    Natural hair grows up to 6 inches per year, in some cases it can be less or more. Hair growth is down to a variety of factors such genetics, lifestyle, hair manipulation from styling, supplements etc. The key to hair growth is having a healthy scalp so step 1 is clarify your hair. Make your cleansing your hair regularly to ensure your hair follicles aren’t clogged up by oils and excess product which will keep your scalp in a healthy state. Step 2 is to retain as much hair growth as possible. There are various ways to retain length such as protective styling, keeping your hair hydrated and getting regular trims. Utilising these techniques will help moisture get into the hair strands and will reduce the risk of dry and brittle hair which leads to breakage.

    To grow low porosity hair, you’ll need to customise your hair routine to fit your hair care needs. The focus should be clarifying, moisturising, using the right products that contain humectants and minimise the use of heavy oils. Note; other factors will have a part to play such as eating habits, lifestyle etc but if you can focus on finding the right routine then you should be fine. One way to stay on top of your progress is by tracking and documenting your natural hair journey so you know where to make changes and improvements.

    9 Low Porosity Haircare Tips to incorporate into your Natural Hair Routine

    Now you understand what hair porosity is and how cleansing and getting hydration into the strands can help you maintain healthy hair. Here are some things you’ll want to incorporate into your natural hair routine to boost your regimen and ensure your low porosity hair is properly cared for. You don’t have to do them all but suggest trying a couple and figure out what works best for you. 

    1. Use products with the right ingredients

    It’s important to use ingredients that will penetrate through your hair shafts as opposed to drying it out further. You should always check the ingredients in all your products especially shampoos, conditioners and moisturisers. Stay away from anything that contains sulphates and silicones. Instead, use hair products that contain film-forming humectants that help retain water in your hair. These humectants have moisturising ingredients that create a clear, flexible film over your strands to help resist dehydration.

    Examples of film-forming humectants:

    • Marshmallow root
    • Flaxseed gel
    • Aloe vera
    • Slippery Elm
    • Pathenol
    • Hydroxyproplytrimonium honey
    • nettle leaf tea or nettle extract 

    2. Use the correct oils to seal in moisture

    Using oils is an effective way to seal moisture into your cuticles. However, there are certain oils that won’t work for low porosity hair. For example, coconut oil is raved about in the natural hair community but due to the oil being quite heavy – it doesn’t actually add much benefit to low porosity naturals and just sits on top of the hair strands. The best oils for low porosity hair are lightweight oils. They are known for penetrating through your roots and hair shafts increasing the chances of your hair absorbing it. You might also want to stay away from heavy butters and try an avocado, mango or murumuru butter which is light in texture and has sealing properties.

    Examples of lightweight oils: Jojoba oil, Avocado oil, Grapesed oil, Sweet almond oil, Argan oil and Sunflower oil.

    TIP – Always use oils as the last step! You want to apply it after you moisturise your hair and use it to seal the moisture into your hair strands. If you apply oil onto your strands prior to moisturising then you’ll be locking out moisture as opposed to getting it into the hair shaft.

    Lightweight oils

    3. Always use heat when deep conditioning

    Heat is a great way to open up your hair’s cuticle and works extremely well for low porosity hair. For your hair to reap the full benefits of your deep conditioner – you need to open up the cuticles. The cuticles will naturally open when you clarify your hair with warm water but it’s important not to wait for your hair to dry before applying your deep conditioner. Apply it straight away so you to get the benefits of the moisturising ingredients. It’s best to leave the treatment on your hair for at least 30 mins and apply a shower cap to keep the product from drying out. Sit under a hooded dryer or heat cap to keep your cuticles open. 

    You should aim to use a deep conditioning treatment at least twice a month. It might sound like a laborious process but trust me it’s worth it! You’ll start to see improvements in your hair’s health and it’s ability to retain moisture. Learn more about the benefits of deep conditioning here.

    4. Utilise steam

    Steam is another method of opening up your hair cuticles and offers similar benefits to using heat and warm water. The difference with steam is it works slightly quicker. This is because the water molecules are in vapour form which move quicker than liquid molecules to penetrate your hair. There are hand hair steamers you can purchase and use in between washes to open up your hair cuticles when moisturising your hair. Alternatively, you can use the steam from a hot shower if you don’t want to invest in a steamer. Remember, steam alone can’t hydrate your hair so use it as a step prior to moisturising your hair.

    5. Always apply products to damp hair 

    This is a pretty simple step, you don’t need to completely saturate your hair. But you can use a spray bottle to spritz your hair prior to applying your products to help the ingredients penetrate through your hair strands. Water is every Naturalista’s friend! Although low porosity hair has a harder time absorbing it – it doesn’t mean you should eliminate it completely. TIP – use warm water to open up your hair cuticles.

    6. Try a pre-poo treatment

    Pre-pooing is a way of prepping your hair prior to cleansing. There are a variety of ways you can pre-poo your hair using products such as masks, oils, scrubs and deep conditioning treatments.  Shampoo is known for stripping your hair of its natural oils and moisture.  Pre-pooing is a way of retaining that moisture. This is extremely useful for low porosity hair as it minimises and prevents the stripping of your hair from the shampoo. 

    7. Don’t skip trims

    Trims are vital for any hair type but key for low porosity hair it’s essential due to your hair being drier and brittle in texture.. This leads to split ends travelling up the hair shaft quickly eventually leading to breakage. Ideally, you want to trim your hair every 8 weeks but if you prefer to stretch your trim you can opt for every 12 weeks. The key is to maintain healthy hair and have a consistent routine.

    8. Sleep with a silk pillowcase 

    Have you ever gone to bed with your scarf or bonnet and found it on the floor or somewhere on your bed when you wake up? I’m sure we’ve all had this experience at some point which is why sleeping with a silk pillowcase provides you with that extra protection. Cotton pillowcases are known for drying out hair whilst silk pillowcases help keep moisture in your coils/curls for longer. You can opt for satin pillowcases too, they tend to be significantly cheaper than silk but it won’t retain moisture as well as silk. Aside from the benefits for your hair, you’ll notice a difference on your face. So throw that cotton pillowcase away and upgrade to a smoother silkier option that has better benefits for you.

    Silk/Satin

    9. Treat and prevent build up

    Build up is something low porosity naturals battle with a lot. Unfortunately, the hair strands find it difficult to absorb moisture which leads to products sitting on top of your strands. One way you can curb build up in low porosity hair is by using a clarifying shampoo – incorporate it into your natural hair routine and start of with once a month to stay on top of it. If you’re interested in a natural hair remedy then opt for a apple cider vinegar rinse. All you need to do is dilute 1 spoon of vinegar with a cup of water and spritz on your hair after shampooing. Make sure you get the whole length of your hair and scalp. Then follow up with a conditioner or deep conditioning treatment to get that moisture back into your hair strands.

    FAQ’s re: Low Porosity Natural Hair Routine

    1: How do you treat low porosity hair?

    We’ve covered the majority of the elements of how to treat low porosity hair above but a quick takeaway is to stay away from heavy products which will lead to build up. Stick to lightweight products that have the right moisturising benefits. You can always utilise treatments such as pre-poos and deep conditioners to get that extra moisture and hydration into your hair strands. Try to use heat and/or steam when using these treatments to open up the hair cuticle to ensure the ingredients get right through to the core of the strands.

    2: What ingredients should I avoid for low porosity hair?

    There are 2 main ingredients that are a no-go for low porosity hair! Silicones and Sulphates. Silicone makes your hair appear shiny after use which is why many people use it but it doesn’t actually keep your hair moisturised. Constant use of silicones can weaken the hair causing damage. Sulphates strip the hair of natural moisture which is a big no no for women with low porosity hair. The overuse of sulphates for low porosity naturals leads to excessive dryness and frizz. There are loads of sulphate free shampoos on the market so you’ll be able to find something that works for you.

    3: Which oil is best for low porosity hair?

    You want to opt for lightweight oils as opposed to heavy ones to minimise build up and clogging up your scalp. Luckily, there are many options on the market. Here are some of our favourite oils for low porosity hair;

    • Jojoba Oil
    • Sweet Almond Oil
    • Grapeseed Oil
    • Baobab Oil
    • Argan Oil
    • Pomegranate Oil 
    • Avocado Oil

    4: Does low porosity hair need protein?

    In general, natural hair needs the right balance of protein and moisture to thrive. The difference with low porosity hair is it doesnt need as much protein compared to other porosity types. The benefit of protein is it adds strength to your hair, it helps with elasticity and keeps your hair strong. But too much protein can leave your hair dry and brittle. As a low porosity natural, you may need to monitor how your hair reacts to protein treatments to decide how often you incorporate it into your routine. If you’re experiencing significant breakage or notice a drop in elasticity then it might be time to get a protein treatment.

    Final Thoughts 

    We hope you got everything you need to boost your low porosity natural hair routine. Despite the challenges low porosity naturals face of retaining and absorbing moisture. There are a variety of ways you can get moisture into your hair strands. One of the things you’ll have to change straight away is reading the ingredients on products before purchasing them. Hair brands are very good at marketing products for hair growth and moisture but when you read the labels you’ll find harmful ingredients that don’t add any benefit. Get into the habit of doing your research so it doesn’t have any detrimental impact on your hair’s health.

    Do you have low porosity hair? What tips have you tried or recommend for other Naturalistas?