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Moisture retention plays an important role in maintaining healthy natural hair, particularly for those with Type 4 hair. If your hair often feels dry shortly after wash day, the issue may not be the products you’re using, but how they’re layered.
The LOC and LCO methods are two popular techniques used to help hydrate the hair and reduce moisture loss. While both methods use the same products, the order in which they’re applied is different.
In this guide, we’ll break down the differences between the LOC and LCO method, explain how hair porosity can influence your results, and help you decide which approach works best for your routine.
What is the LOC & LCO Method?
LOC stands for liquid first, oil second and cream last. While LCO stands for liquid first, cream second and oil last. Both methods use the same components, starting with liquid. The main difference is that the second and third steps swap places. Both methods are designed to help hydrate the hair and reduce moisture loss by layering water based and sealing products in a specific order.
| LOC Method | LCO Method |
| Liquid → Oil → Cream | Liquid → Cream → Oil |
| Often preferred for high porosity hair | Often preferred for low porosity hair |
| Creates a stronger seal | Often feels lighter on the hair |
Let’s delve into the definitions in a bit more detail to give you a better understanding of how they work together.
Liquid
This is the first step in the LOC and LCO method. You can use water or a water-based leave-in conditioner. The goal is to hydrate the hair before applying creams and oils, as water is the primary source of moisture for natural hair. If you don’t have a liquid leave-in conditioner, water alone can be an effective starting point.
Oil
This is the second step in the LOC method & third step in the LCO method. The oil helps slow moisture loss by creating a barrier around the hair strand. In simple terms, it helps keep your hair moisturised for longer. Depending on your hair porosity, you’ll need to be mindful of which oils you use, as some are heavier than others. We’ll cover this in a bit more detail in the section below to help you decide what type of oils to use.
Cream
This the third step in the LOC method and second step in the LCO method. In most cases the cream is a water based product which also contains oils and butters. Although the cream can act as a sealing agent due to the oils and butters in the formula, many creams also contain water and conditioning ingredients that help keep the hair soft and moisturised. It tends to be thicker and denser in consistency in comparison to other products you’ll be using to hydrate your strands.
How Hair Porosity Can Impact the Method you Choose?
Both the LOC and LCO methods are effective ways of improving moisture retention. While both methods share many similarities, choosing the right one for your hair can help you get the best results. Both methods can work well for Type 4 hair, whether you have 4A, 4B or 4C hair. However, hair porosity plays an important role in determining which method works best for your hair.
Porosity refers to how easily moisture can enter and leave the hair shaft. Hair can be classified as low, medium or high porosity. As a general rule, the LOC method is often recommended for high to medium porosity hair, while the LCO method is often recommended for low to medium porosity hair.
How to Figure Out Your Hair Porosity
The float test is often mentioned as a way to determine hair porosity, but it isn’t always reliable. Factors such as product buildup, hair density and water quality can affect the results. Instead, pay attention to how your hair behaves:
Signs of low porosity hair
- Water tends to sit on the hair before absorbing
- Products can feel like they coat the strands
- Hair takes longer to become fully saturated when washing
Signs of high porosity hair
- Hair absorbs water quickly
- Hair dries quickly after washing
- Moisture doesn’t seem to last long between wash days
Signs of medium porosity hair
- Hair absorbs and retains moisture relatively well
- Products don’t tend to sit heavily on the strands
- Hair generally responds well to most moisturising routines
| Hair Porosity | Method Often Recommended |
| Low Porosity Hair | LCO Method |
| High Porosity Hair | LOC Method |
| Medium Porosity Hair | LOC or LCO Method |
High Porosity
High porosity hair tends to have difficulty retaining moisture due to its open cuticle structure. This allows moisture to enter the hair shaft easily, but it can also escape just as quickly. As a result, many people with high porosity hair struggle to keep their hair moisturised between wash days.
Many people with high porosity hair prefer the LOC method because the oil layer is applied earlier in the routine. This may help reduce moisture loss and support longer-lasting hydration, while the cream provides an additional layer of moisture and nourishment.
Low Porosity
Low porosity hair has difficulty absorbing moisture due to its tightly packed cuticles. Water and products often sit on the surface of the hair rather than penetrating the strands easily. The benefit is that once moisture enters the hair, it tends to remain there for longer.
Many people with low porosity hair prefer the LCO method because applying the cream before the oil allows water-based products to be layered onto the hair before sealing. This can help improve product absorption while still helping to minimise moisture loss.
Medium Porosity
Medium porosity hair sits between low and high porosity hair. Its cuticle structure allows moisture to enter the hair relatively easily while also retaining it well. Because of this balance, medium porosity hair is often considered the easiest porosity type to maintain.
With medium porosity hair, either the LOC or LCO method can work well depending on your products, styling routine and personal preference.
5 Tips for Improving Moisture Retention
- Start with freshly washed hair using a moisturising shampoo. If you notice product buildup, use a clarifying shampoo first to ensure your hair is clean and able to absorb moisture effectively.
- Follow up with a deep conditioning treatment. Applying gentle heat can help the treatment penetrate the hair more effectively, allowing you to get the most from the product.
- Detangle your hair thoroughly to minimise knots and tangles before applying your styling products.
- Follow up with the LOC or LCO method while your hair is still damp. Applying products to damp hair can help support moisture retention.
- Sleep with a silk or satin bonnet or pillowcase. Unlike cotton, silk and satin create less friction and are less likely to absorb moisture from the hair overnight.
Understanding Oils
With so many oils available, it can be difficult to know which one to choose. While there is no single oil that works for everyone, hair porosity can help guide your decision.
High porosity hair tends to lose moisture more quickly, which is why many people prefer heavier oils that help slow moisture loss and provide a longer-lasting seal. Low porosity hair, on the other hand is more prone to product buildup, so lightweight oils are preferred as they tend to sit more comfortably on the hair.
It’s important to remember that hair responds differently, so some experimentation may be needed to find the oils that work best for your routine.
Examples of heavier oils:
- Olive oil
- Castor oil
- Coconut oil
Examples of lightweight oils:
- Jojoba oil
- Argan oil
- Avocado oil
Final Thoughts
Whether you choose the LOC or LCO method, both approaches are designed to support moisture retention and help keep your hair hydrated for longer. The key is understanding how your hair responds and selecting the method that best aligns with your hair’s needs.
For many people, hair porosity plays an important role in determining which method delivers the best results. If one approach isn’t giving you the level of moisture retention you’re looking for, don’t be afraid to experiment with the other and monitor how your hair responds over several wash days.
Finally, pay close attention to the products you’re using. Choosing water-based moisturisers, suitable oils and conditioning products can make just as much difference as the order in which they’re applied. With the right combination of products and technique, both the LOC and LCO methods can be effective additions to a healthy natural hair routine.
FAQ’s About the LOC & LCO Method
Avoid using the LOC or LCO method daily, as this can lead to product buildup. The purpose of the LOC and LCO method is to retain moisture in your hair strands which takes away the burden of doing it daily.
Ideally, use the LOC or LCO method on wash days after cleansing your hair. It’s likely you’ll need to refresh your hair in between wash days to keep your hair moisturised. If this is the case then you can wash your hair or spritz your hair with water and follow through with the method of choice.
If you do opt for doing the method daily, you’ll need to use lightweight products and pay attention to build up. You’ll also need to wash your hair more regularly i.e. every 3 to 4 days as opposed to weekly and incorporate a clarifying shampoo into your routine at least once a month.
Ideally, you want to be doing this method on wash days and then follow up with a refresh every 3 to 4 days. Now this will vary depending on your hair needs and styling preferences. For instance, if you’re wearing a wash and go, you’ll likely need to refresh your hair more often than if you wear a bun or protective style.
If you’re new to the method then you might want to start doing it once a week and do a refresh mid-week. From there, you can measure how your hair responds and decide if you need to do it more or less regularly.
How long the LOC or LCO method lasts will vary depending on your hair porosity, styling routine, climate and the products you use. In many cases, moisture retention can last anywhere from 3 to 7 days before your hair needs a refresh. If your hair starts to feel dry between wash days, lightly misting it with water and reapply a small amount of product to restore moisture.
Always apply your leave in conditioner first. Leave-in conditioners add moisture back into the hair after washing. Curl creams on the other hand enhances your curl pattern to define your curls, smooth away frizziness and give your hair that extra shine.
Just be mindful with how much product you apply daily to minimise product build up. Overuse of product can cause your hair to become lacklustre and brittle leading to breakage.
Many people recommend the LCO method for low porosity hair because it places the cream before the oil. Low porosity hair can struggle to absorb moisture due to its tightly packed cuticles, so layering a cream before sealing with an oil may help water-based products sit more comfortably on the hair.
That said, there is no one-size-fits-all approach. Some people with low porosity hair still prefer the LOC method depending on the products they use and how their hair responds. If you’re unsure, try both methods for a few wash cycles and monitor how soft, moisturised and manageable your hair feels.
Many people with high porosity hair prefer the LOC method because the routine places the oil before the cream. High porosity hair tends to absorb moisture quickly but can also lose it just as fast, so applying the oil earlier in the routine may help reduce moisture loss.
However, hair care is rarely one-size-fits-all. Product choice, climate and styling habits can all influence your results. If your hair still feels dry after using the LOC method, consider experimenting with the LCO method to see which approach provides longer-lasting moisture retention.
