NaturalistaVibes

Tag: Length Retention

  • Protective Hairstyle 101: Are They Really Protecting Your Hair?

    Protective Hairstyle 101: Are They Really Protecting Your Hair?

    Protective hairstyles are a cornerstone of the natural hair community. They offer the flexibility to experiment with different looks while keeping your kinks, curls and coils intact. However, despite the popularity of styles like braids, twists, and cornrows, many women still experience breakage and hair loss when wearing these styles.

    Are you dealing with breakage or excessive shedding with protective styles? Do you notice significant hair loss and pulling along your hairline? Or perhaps you constantly wear protective hairstyles but haven’t seen any progress in your hair growth journey. 

    If you’re facing these problems, it’s time to reconsider: “Is your protective hairstyle really protecting your hair or harming it?” While these styles are beloved in the natural hair community, many women still encounter issues. So what’s going wrong? Why are so many women having problems despite the intended benefits?

    In this post, we’ll delve into the benefits and drawbacks of protective hairstyles, uncover the reasons behind these issues, and offer tips to ensure your hair is truly protected.

    Benefits of wearing Protective Hairstyles

    The term protective hairstyle clearly explains the benefit of wearing these styles. Their purpose is to protect your natural hair, keeping it healthy and help you retain length. Protecting your hair  from any potential damage caused by daily styling, heat, tangling and breakage. Many women in the natural hair community swear by the improvements they’ve seen while rocking these styles. And although, some women haven’t had the best experience. Protective hairstyles can support you maintain healthy hair if done correctly. 

    Here are 5 top benefits of rocking these styles.

    1. Minimising risk of damage to your hair 

    As your hair is tucked away, it reduces the risk of over manipulation that comes with daily styling. The type 4 curl pattern is fragile and can snag easily when combing, detangling or styling your hair. The fact you’ll be doing this less frequently while wearing protective hairstyles helps eradicate this and minimises breakage. Plus, you won’t be using styling tools such as heat as regularly when wearing these styles.

    2. Supports with length retention 

    In order to reach your length retention goals. It’s best to leave your hair alone! I know it sounds cliche but the less time your hands are spent styling or parting your hair the better it is for you to hold onto that length you worked so hard on achieving. 

    3. Low Maintenance

    You’ll be able to wake up and go! Protective hairstyles require minimal effort when styling your hair daily. They’re easy to maintain and typically last 6 – 8 weeks. With the right  maintenance you can stretch them for up to 12 weeks. Saving time in the morning when getting ready. This is a big PRO for many Naturalistas! 

    4. Offers Flexibility of styling 

    Naturalistas are blessed with versatility of styling options bearing in mind you can wear your hair straight, coily/curly or in it’s shrunken state. A protective hairstyle will increase your ability to wear these styles without causing damage to your hair. The fact you’re not constantly altering your coil pattern keeps the hair strands strong and healthy. 

    5. Helps you get through that awkward length stage 

    If you’re newly natural going through that awkward TWA stage or not happy with your current length. Wearing a protective hairstyle will help you get through that phase.

    Drawbacks of Protective Hairstyles

    Although protective styles have many benefits – it also comes with its cons. Here are 4 main drawbacks of wearing a protective hairstyle.

    1. Wearing them constantly could lead to excess shedding

    Have you heard the term too much of anything isn’t good for you? Well, the same logic applies to protective styles. As much as they’re great for your hair – if you wear the same hairstyle all the time without breaks in between then you’re not giving your hair enough time to recover. Putting constant tension on your hair strands and scalp eventually leads to hair loss.

    2. What you class as a protective hairstyle isn’t protecting your hair strands

    Another drawback is that what you consider as a protective style isn’t actually a protective hairstyle. Let’s delve into the definition of “what is a protective hairstyle?” to help understand what we mean. A protective hairstyle means your hair is fully tucked up and away and your ends are completely hidden. So if you’re rocking a style wear a big chunk of your hair isn’t tucked away then that isn’t a protective style.

    For example : Although some sew-ins are classed as a protective style, if you have a lot of leave out then your hair isn’t fully protected. This is because you’ll be manipulating your hair regularly to make sure it blends with your hair. Another example of this is mermaid braids – if the ends of your hair are not fully braided and are left out with the braiding hair then your ends are not protected.

    3. Tight protective hairstyles lead to hair loss and alopecia

    Thirdly, tight styles and pulling along the hairline can lead to hair loss and alopecia. If you’re not careful, the problem will become irreversible leading to long term damage. This is why it’s important to speak up at your appointments if you feel your hair is too tight. Many people believe braiding the hair tight will make your hairstyle last longer but it’s actually leading to damage. When wearing protective styles – you should always make sure they’re not tight or pulling on your edges. Remember, Type 4 hair is fine and fragile. Protective hairstyles can add weight to your already fine hair especially when adding braiding hair and extensions. 

    4. If you don’t care for your hair while wearing them then you’ll experience matting

    Certain protective styles can lead to matting if worn for extended periods of times. Protective hairstyles such as braids and twists can cause your hair to matt as the strands become tangled within the style. This is why it’s important to not wear your style for more than 8 weeks at a time. 12 weeks max if you have a good maintenance routine. When removing the style, use a leave-in conditioner or detangler with a great slip to make the process easier and stop you from pulling out any of your hair strands.

    Now despite the drawbacks, this doesn’t mean protective styles don’t work. It’s just about being aware of the best protective styles to achieve your goals and following the right prep and maintenance techniques.

    Best protective hairstyle for hair growth 

    protective hairstyles / protective styles

    Here are the best protective hairstyles if you’re trying to achieve length.

    1. Cornrows 

    This is the best protective hairstyle as your hair is fully protected while wearing the style. The great thing about cornrows is they can be worn in a multitude of ways such as using braiding hair or using your own natural hair. They may not last as long as braids because they get rough easily but a fantastic option for women keen on retaining length. 

    Flat twists are a great alternative to cornrows and keep your hair protected in a similar way without having to use braiding hair. 

    2. Crochet braids

    Another great protective style for holding onto your hair growth. With this style, your hair is fully protected and there is no need to manipulate your hair because it’s completely tucked away. You can experiment with curly or straight extensions offering you a versatility of styling options. 

    3. Sew ins with minimal leave out 

    Sew-ins have a mixed feedback but if installed correctly then you shouldn’t have any problems. The key is to have minimal leave-out or apply a closure. Get your stylist to install a net over your cornrows to help keep them intact and also to minimise any tension on your hair from the sewing of the wefts. Make sure you have at least 5 inches of hair to cover your leave out so you’re not manipulating it daily. Wearing extensions that match your natural hair pattern is a MUST if you don’t want to use heat daily so opt for kinky straight or kinky curly bundles. Lastly, make sure your sew in isn’t too tight! That’s the number one cause of traction alopecia which you’ll want to eradicate when wearing sew-ins.

    4. Medium sized braids

    There are many ways to rock braids such as fulani/tribal, french curl, knotless, boho and mermaid braids. But medium sized knotless or box braids are the best if you’re trying to make the most of your hair growth. It minimises any pulling or tension when styling your hair into ponytails or buns and isn’t too heavy on your scalp. Some braid styles mermaid braids aren’t actually protective if the ends of your hair aren’t completely braided. So bear that in mind when trying out new braid styles.

    5. Mini Twists 

    Mini twists are a perfect protective hairstyle which are low maintenance but also makes it easy to wash your hair and keep it hydrated. The twists are lightweight making it minimal risk for pulling and tugging along your hairline. They’re versatile and can be worn in buns, ponytails, half up half down styles etc. One thing to be weary of is twists can matt easily when washing your and can twist around each other. So don’t keep them in longer than 8 weeks at time. Remove carefully and finger detangle with a product with a lot of slip.

    6. Glueless Wigs 

    Wigs are great as you’re able to take them down daily. If you prefer frontals then you want to be careful of the product and glue use along the hairline as this can cause hairloss around your edges and irritation. If hair growth is you main goal for wearing a protective style then opt for a glueless wig. You can always use mousse and sprtiz on the closure to lay it down. Aside from that, there are several other options available that will cause no damage to your hairline such as headband wigs, u part wigs, half wigs and v part wigs.

    How to Properly care for your hair while wearing a Protective Hairstyle

    Here are our top tips for caring for your natural hair when wearing a protective hairstyle.

    • Prep your hair prior to installing your new style
    • Have a maintenance routine and stick to it!
    • Hydrate your hair regularly : Spritz with hydrating mist and seal with an oil to keep your hair moisturised 
    • Sleep with a silk scarf or silk bonnet 
    • Wear your style for a maximum of 8 weeks to eliminate matting 
    • Give your hair a break in between styles – ideally 2 weeks
    • SPEAK UP at your hair appointments : If your hair feels too tight or pulling on your hairline then let your stylist know straight away instead of dealing with the problem overnight.

    FAQ’s re; Protective Hairstyle

    1: Do protective hairstyles help your hair grow?

    Protective styles don’t grow your hair but help with retaining length and holding onto hair that would have been lost from daily styling and over manipulation. When removing the hairstyle, you’re likely to see a lot of shed hair. But don’t panic! Your hair sheds up to 100 hairs per day so just view it as trapped dead hair that doesn’t have anywhere to go. This doesn’t mean you shouldn’t be careful and patient when removing the style. Saturate your hands with oils to make the loosening process easier and finger detangle first before following up with a wide tooth comb.

    2: How long should you let your hair breathe between protective styles?

    Ideally 2 weeks. Give your hair time to breathe before following up with your next protective style. It might be worth alternating styles too if you find certain parts of your hair weaker than others. The same applies for bun and ponytail styles. Always alternate your parting so you’re not putting too much tension on one side. 

    3: What is the longest lasting protective hairstyle?

    Braids are the longest lasting style as they tend to last 8 to 12 weeks. Other styles such as crochet braids or sew-ins are a close second as they last up to 8 weeks. If you’re not a fan of protective styles which includes the use of added hair then mini twists and flat twists are a great option. If you’re a fan of wigs than that another win win! You can get your hair cornrowed underneath and leave them in for up to 6 weeks at a time. 

    4: What protective style is the least damaging?

    Cornrow based styles such as crochet braids, cornrows with or without braiding hair are the best protective hairstyle to minimise damage. Your hair is completely tucked away and the hair used is quite light and doesn’t weigh down your hair. Sew-ins with minimal leave out or closure is also a safe style due to the cornrow base. If you’re a fan of braids then stick to medium sized braids that aren’t too tight so it doesn’t pull on your hairline.

    5: How to prep hair for a protective style?

    Your hair should be freshly washed and fully hydrated before installing any protective style. Here are some steps to follow

    1. Use a clarifying shampoo to strip any dirt or build up. Then follow up with a moisturising/hydrating shampoo
    2. Apply a moisturising treatment for at least 30 mins, using heat or steam to help the product penetrate through. Read or guide for Deep Conditioning Type 4 hair for product recommendations.
    3. Once rinsed out, apply a leave-in conditioner (always do this in sections of 4 to ensure the product is equally distributed).
    4. Seal your ends with an oil to help keep the moisture locked into your strands. Read our guide for on sealing vs moisturizing oils to know what products to use.
    5. Airdry or blow dry as you desire

    BONUS TIP : If you’re using braiding hair or extensions then wash the hair prior to installation to remove any chemicals or dirt that may cause irritation to your scalp You can also do an apple cider vinegar rinse. 

    FINAL THOUGHTS

    Understanding the pros and cons of your protective hairstyle is crucial for maintaining healthy natural hair. Opt for styles that fully protect your hair or has minimal leave-out. Before installation, prep your hair thoroughly and ensure it’s well moisturised before sealing with an oil.

    Regularly clarify and hydrate your scalp to promote cleanliness and keep your hair healthy. Creating a clean environment minimises product buildup, allowing your hair to thrive.

    What’s your experience with protective styles? Share your tips and thoughts in the comments!

  • The truth about braids for hair growth & length retention

    The truth about braids for hair growth & length retention

    Braids are one of the most popular protective hairstyles for black women. They’re the perfect holiday hairstyle, last a long time, easy to style and keep your ends protected. Braids can have a positive impact on length retention and helps you make the most of your new growth. How? You may wonder! Well, your hands are kept out of your hair whilst wearing the style which minimises wear and tear that comes with daily styling. But with any protective style moderation is key! It’s also important to know how to maintain your natural hair whilst wearing braids to get the most out of your hair growth and minimise any breakage or excessive shedding when you finally decide to take them out.

    We’ll be giving you a run down on how braids can contribute to your hair growth goals. Plus TIP’s on what TO DO/ NOT DO to make the most of your length retention whilst wearing your braids. 

    Are braids good for length retention?

    Braids are a great way to retain length but to get the most out of your hair growth you need to ensure you maintain them effectively. The length, size and tightness of the braids all have a part to play. Here’s 3 ways braids contribute to length retention:

    • Less Manipulation – when wearing braids, you don’t have to deal with daily styling! Your hair is left alone giving it the opportunity to thrive without constantly touching it. Excessive styling of hair is known to contribute to shedding and breakage if not done with the right styling tools, being done too frequently or being heavy handed. It’s okay to leave your hair alone and let it breathe which is what braids offer you.
    • Minimal Detangling – Detangling is part and parcel of every Naturalista’s life. Type 4 hair is prone to tangling due to its tight curl pattern. When detangling, it’s all about detangling with care and using products with the right amount of slip to make the process easier. As your hair is tucked away in braids for at least 6 to 8 weeks – you’ll experience less hair loss from the detangling process.
    • Protected Ends – The ends of our hair is the oldest part which means it’s prone to breakage, split ends and knots. Keeping ends protected helps minimise split ends travelling up the hair shaft and can contribute to length retention because you’ll be snipping a minimal amount when it’s time for your trim.

    Can braids make your hair grow longer?

    The truth is braids does not make your hair grow. There is a big misconception regarding growth and retention when it comes to braids. Scientifically, hair starts from  “new cells forming in the hair bulb. Once the cells stick together and harden, the full strand of hair develops. They attach to the hair from below and gradually push up out of the skin”. 1There are various phases to the hair growth cycle known as the Anagen, Transitional and Resting Phase. The Anagen phase is also known as the growth phase. “At any point in time, about 90 percent of a person’s total amount of hair is in this growth phase.” So as long as new cells are continuously created in the hair bulb then your hair is likely to grow longer. Click here to learn more about the hair growth cycle.

    Now there are various things that can contribute to hair growth such as genetics, diet, lifestyle, hair maintenance routine etc. But braids alone can’t grow your hair. You’re likely to feel like your hair has grown quicker and longer faster because you can clearly see your new growth as your braids begin to grow out. The truth is the growth is just more visible because it’s more obvious compared to if you were wearing your hair in a bun or twist out everyday. Don’t let this discourage you from wearing braids because although it doesn’t contribute to growth. Braids help you retain length you wouldn’t have been able to hold onto if your hair wasn’t protected. 

    Braid bumps on scalp

    Is it healthy to put your hair in braids?

    We’ve all seen the horror stories that come with braids, especially when you’ve seen people experience thinning edges, alopecia or scalp irritation. But it’s important to note that wearing braids is healthy whether you decide to use your own natural hair or braiding hair to create your braids. Aside from it being a great protective style, wearing braids can add many benefits to your natural hair. Here are 5 ways braids can contribute to your hairs health:

    • Helps lock in moisture and hydration within the hair strands
    • Prevents split ends for natural wear and tear
    • Prevents breakage 
    • Protects hair whilst you sleep 
    • Low Maintenance 

    Are braids good for thinning hair?

    In a nutshell NO. If you’re hair is already fragile and thinning. Wearing braids could lead to additional damage. Braids are usually done with synthetic or human braiding hair. Although they’re not heavy when you feel them, you’ll be attaching the braiding hair to individual strands of your hair which will add tension to your hair follicles. If you’re not careful – you could end up with alopecia. 

    So what’s the option if you like wearing braids. Well, you might want to opt for something like crochet braids. In this style, your hair is cornrowed down and the braiding hair is crochet’d on top of the cornrows. The reason why this method works so well is because your natural hair is already braided down to your scalp. Leading to less pulling on tugging on your natural hair when styling. 

    Why am I losing so much hair after braiding?

    It’s normal for your hair to shed between 50 to 100 hairs a day. Once you’ve taken out your braids, it might feel like you’ve lost alot of hair but it’s most likely to be hair that shed and was trapped in between the braids. So don’t panic if you notice alot more hair falling out then you normally do. Now there’s a difference between shedding and breakage. I’d say it’s important to distinguish between the two to know if you should be panicking or not. A quick way to tell the difference between the two is shed hair tends to be the full length of your hair strand whereas breakage tends to be shorter and brittle strands. 

    Here are a few ways you can minimise excessive shedding and loss of healthy hair strands whilst removing your braids

    1. Take ur time :

    Don’t be in a rush when taking out your braids. Be prepared for it to take a couple of hours, you want to use the same amount of care at the beginning of the braid removal process as the last braid. You can rope in a friend and take breaks in between if needed. 

    2. Don’t be heavy handed :

    This is pretty self-explanatory, it’s likely some of your braiding hair can get tangled with your hair when pulling or tugging. So be gentle to ensure you’re not pulling and ripping out your natural hair. 

    3. Loosen from the tip upwards :

    Always loosen the braid from the tip before moving upwards. 

    4. Detangle with care :

    You can use a detangling product and spritz your hair with water to make the detangling process easier. Depending on how long you’ve had your braids in, you’re likely to experience some build up. So take your time to remove the build up from each section as opposed to detangling it all at once. Remember: working in sections and on damp hair makes detangling easier.

    How long should I wear my Braids? And How often do braids need to be re-done?

    Stick to 8 weeks and if you want to stretch your braids a little longer than 10 weeks max. Like any protective style, there is a limit to how long you can wear it. For instance, if you keep your braids in for too long, you can end up with excessive buildup which would make the removal and detangling process harder. 

    Braids around your hairline tend to grow older quicker than the rest purely because it tends to be the shorter part of your hair but also because it’s the area you tend to style the most. You can always get this re-done around the 3 – 4 week mark. This helps the style look fresher but also minimises any pulling of the hair along your hair line. 

    Top Tips for Using Braids for Length Retention

    braids for length retention

    Additional Tip’s for using braids to achieve optimal length retention

    Having the right maintenance routine will have a huge impact on how much length you retain whilst wearing braids. We’ve broken down some Do’s & Don’ts of what to do to help you on your journey.

    * TIP : Everyone’s hair is different so test them out and see how they work for you. You can always adopt the tips to suit you as and when needed.

    Do’s of Wearing Braids for length retention

    1. Wash your scalp :

    We would recommend at least once a month if you want to limit frizz. How often you wash your braids really depends on your lifestyle. For instance, if you’re a regular in the gym and your scalp is itchy from sweat then you might want to wash your hair more often.

    2. Ensure your hair is fully DRY :

    This is an important step! If you’re hair is damp and not fully dry then you’ll have an irritable scalp and your braids will smell like mould. You can definitely air dry your braids but to speed things up then use a blow dryer to dry the roots and let the rest of your braids air dry.

    3. Moisturise & Seal ends :

    Get into the habit of moisturising and sealing your ends. Although your hair is protected, it still needs moisture to thrive and not become overly dry. You can mix your leave in conditioner with some water in a spray bottle and spritz across the length of your braids. For extra protection, seal with an oil to keep your hair hydrated for longer.

    4. Re-do Braids Along Hairline:

    If you noticed the braids along the hairline are pulling on your edges. Then theres no harm in re-doing it so it doesn’t rip out your hair. You can get it re-done every 3 – 4 weeks which will help keep your hair looking fresh and limit the damage to your hair follicles.

    5. Have Break:

    If braids are your go to style then have a break in between braids. Like any protective style, moderation is key. Excessively doing the same hairstyle can lead to damage so its best to give yourself at least a week or 2 break before re-braiding.

    6. Speak Up:

    If you notice your stylist is braiding your hair too tightly then speak up there and then! Don’t let your stylist go rogue with what they want to do and end up regretting it after. Let them know straight away if there pulling your hair too tight and stop them from continuing. Change stylists next time if you’re not happy.

    Don’ts of Wearing Braids for length retention

    1. Tight styles :

    Don’t constantly wear your hair up or in tight ponytail styles. This adds tension to your hairline and can end up pulling on your hairline eventually damaging your hair follicles. This isn’t to say you cant wear your hair in buns or ponytails but just limit the amount of times and alternate your hairstyles.

    2. Wear for too long

    The advise is to stick to a maximum of 8 weeks. Some people do like to stretch their hairstyles so could potentially wear braids for longer such as 10 – 12 weeks. However, I wouldn’t go beyond that time and would pay extra attention to your hairline.

    8 Ways to Style Your Braids

    Final Thoughts 

    Braids are a great protective style and great way to maximise length retention. The key is to still have a maintenance routine whilst wearing them to ensure your hair and scalp is healthy. You’ll want to stick to medium sized braids and minimise tight hairstyles to make the most of your new hair growth. Braids offer you a variety of styling options whilst protecting your natural hair at the same time. It also requires minimal effort whilst wearing them so they’re a WIN WIN for Naturalista’s who don’t have as much time on their hands.

    Here are some other braid articles that may be off interest to you;

    How to Relieve Tight Braids and Treat Braid Bumps?

    Everything you need to know about French Curl Braids

    SOURCES :

    1. What is the structure of hair and how does it grow? : IQWiG (Institute for Quality and Efficiency in Health Care) https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK546248/
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