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Tag: Hair Growth

Protective Hairstyle 101: Are They Really Protecting Your Hair?
Protective hairstyles are a cornerstone of the natural hair community. They offer the flexibility to experiment with different looks while keeping your kinks, curls and coils intact. However, despite the popularity of styles like braids, twists, and cornrows, many women still experience breakage and hair loss when wearing these styles.

Are you dealing with breakage or excessive shedding with protective styles? Do you notice significant hair loss and pulling along your hairline? Or perhaps you constantly wear protective hairstyles but haven’t seen any progress in your hair growth journey.

If you’re facing these problems, it’s time to reconsider: “Is your protective hairstyle really protecting your hair or harming it?” While these styles are beloved in the natural hair community, many women still encounter issues. So what’s going wrong? Why are so many women having problems despite the intended benefits?

In this post, we’ll delve into the benefits and drawbacks of protective hairstyles, uncover the reasons behind these issues, and offer tips to ensure your hair is truly protected.

Benefits of wearing Protective Hairstyles

The term protective hairstyle clearly explains the benefit of wearing these styles. Their purpose is to protect your natural hair, keeping it healthy and help you retain length. Protecting your hair from any potential damage caused by daily styling, heat, tangling and breakage. Many women in the natural hair community swear by the improvements they’ve seen while rocking these styles. And although, some women haven’t had the best experience. Protective hairstyles can support you maintain healthy hair if done correctly.

Here are 5 top benefits of rocking these styles.

1. Minimising risk of damage to your hair

As your hair is tucked away, it reduces the risk of over manipulation that comes with daily styling. The type 4 curl pattern is fragile and can snag easily when combing, detangling or styling your hair. The fact you’ll be doing this less frequently while wearing protective hairstyles helps eradicate this and minimises breakage. Plus, you won’t be using styling tools such as heat as regularly when wearing these styles.

2. Supports with length retention

In order to reach your length retention goals. It’s best to leave your hair alone! I know it sounds cliche but the less time your hands are spent styling or parting your hair the better it is for you to hold onto that length you worked so hard on achieving.

3. Low Maintenance

You’ll be able to wake up and go! Protective hairstyles require minimal effort when styling your hair daily. They’re easy to maintain and typically last 6 – 8 weeks. With the right maintenance you can stretch them for up to 12 weeks. Saving time in the morning when getting ready. This is a big PRO for many Naturalistas!

4. Offers Flexibility of styling

Naturalistas are blessed with versatility of styling options bearing in mind you can wear your hair straight, coily/curly or in it’s shrunken state. A protective hairstyle will increase your ability to wear these styles without causing damage to your hair. The fact you’re not constantly altering your coil pattern keeps the hair strands strong and healthy.

5. Helps you get through that awkward length stage

If you’re newly natural going through that awkward TWA stage or not happy with your current length. Wearing a protective hairstyle will help you get through that phase.

Drawbacks of Protective Hairstyles

Although protective styles have many benefits – it also comes with its cons. Here are 4 main drawbacks of wearing a protective hairstyle.

1. Wearing them constantly could lead to excess shedding

Have you heard the term too much of anything isn’t good for you? Well, the same logic applies to protective styles. As much as they’re great for your hair – if you wear the same hairstyle all the time without breaks in between then you’re not giving your hair enough time to recover. Putting constant tension on your hair strands and scalp eventually leads to hair loss.

2. What you class as a protective hairstyle isn’t protecting your hair strands

Another drawback is that what you consider as a protective style isn’t actually a protective hairstyle. Let’s delve into the definition of “what is a protective hairstyle?” to help understand what we mean. A protective hairstyle means your hair is fully tucked up and away and your ends are completely hidden. So if you’re rocking a style wear a big chunk of your hair isn’t tucked away then that isn’t a protective style.

For example : Although some sew-ins are classed as a protective style, if you have a lot of leave out then your hair isn’t fully protected. This is because you’ll be manipulating your hair regularly to make sure it blends with your hair. Another example of this is mermaid braids – if the ends of your hair are not fully braided and are left out with the braiding hair then your ends are not protected.

3. Tight protective hairstyles lead to hair loss and alopecia

Thirdly, tight styles and pulling along the hairline can lead to hair loss and alopecia. If you’re not careful, the problem will become irreversible leading to long term damage. This is why it’s important to speak up at your appointments if you feel your hair is too tight. Many people believe braiding the hair tight will make your hairstyle last longer but it’s actually leading to damage. When wearing protective styles – you should always make sure they’re not tight or pulling on your edges. Remember, Type 4 hair is fine and fragile. Protective hairstyles can add weight to your already fine hair especially when adding braiding hair and extensions.

4. If you don’t care for your hair while wearing them then you’ll experience matting

Certain protective styles can lead to matting if worn for extended periods of times. Protective hairstyles such as braids and twists can cause your hair to matt as the strands become tangled within the style. This is why it’s important to not wear your style for more than 8 weeks at a time. 12 weeks max if you have a good maintenance routine. When removing the style, use a leave-in conditioner or detangler with a great slip to make the process easier and stop you from pulling out any of your hair strands.

Now despite the drawbacks, this doesn’t mean protective styles don’t work. It’s just about being aware of the best protective styles to achieve your goals and following the right prep and maintenance techniques.

Best protective hairstyle for hair growth

Here are the best protective hairstyles if you’re trying to achieve length.

1. Cornrows

This is the best protective hairstyle as your hair is fully protected while wearing the style. The great thing about cornrows is they can be worn in a multitude of ways such as using braiding hair or using your own natural hair. They may not last as long as braids because they get rough easily but a fantastic option for women keen on retaining length.

Flat twists are a great alternative to cornrows and keep your hair protected in a similar way without having to use braiding hair.

2. Crochet braids

Another great protective style for holding onto your hair growth. With this style, your hair is fully protected and there is no need to manipulate your hair because it’s completely tucked away. You can experiment with curly or straight extensions offering you a versatility of styling options.

3. Sew ins with minimal leave out

Sew-ins have a mixed feedback but if installed correctly then you shouldn’t have any problems. The key is to have minimal leave-out or apply a closure. Get your stylist to install a net over your cornrows to help keep them intact and also to minimise any tension on your hair from the sewing of the wefts. Make sure you have at least 5 inches of hair to cover your leave out so you’re not manipulating it daily. Wearing extensions that match your natural hair pattern is a MUST if you don’t want to use heat daily so opt for kinky straight or kinky curly bundles. Lastly, make sure your sew in isn’t too tight! That’s the number one cause of traction alopecia which you’ll want to eradicate when wearing sew-ins.

4. Medium sized braids

There are many ways to rock braids such as fulani/tribal, french curl, knotless, boho and mermaid braids. But medium sized knotless or box braids are the best if you’re trying to make the most of your hair growth. It minimises any pulling or tension when styling your hair into ponytails or buns and isn’t too heavy on your scalp. Some braid styles mermaid braids aren’t actually protective if the ends of your hair aren’t completely braided. So bear that in mind when trying out new braid styles.

5. Mini Twists

Mini twists are a perfect protective hairstyle which are low maintenance but also makes it easy to wash your hair and keep it hydrated. The twists are lightweight making it minimal risk for pulling and tugging along your hairline. They’re versatile and can be worn in buns, ponytails, half up half down styles etc. One thing to be weary of is twists can matt easily when washing your and can twist around each other. So don’t keep them in longer than 8 weeks at time. Remove carefully and finger detangle with a product with a lot of slip.

6. Glueless Wigs

Wigs are great as you’re able to take them down daily. If you prefer frontals then you want to be careful of the product and glue use along the hairline as this can cause hairloss around your edges and irritation. If hair growth is you main goal for wearing a protective style then opt for a glueless wig. You can always use mousse and sprtiz on the closure to lay it down. Aside from that, there are several other options available that will cause no damage to your hairline such as headband wigs, u part wigs, half wigs and v part wigs.

How to Properly care for your hair while wearing a Protective Hairstyle

Here are our top tips for caring for your natural hair when wearing a protective hairstyle.
- Prep your hair prior to installing your new style
- Have a maintenance routine and stick to it!
- Hydrate your hair regularly : Spritz with hydrating mist and seal with an oil to keep your hair moisturised
- Sleep with a silk scarf or silk bonnet
- Wear your style for a maximum of 8 weeks to eliminate matting
- Give your hair a break in between styles – ideally 2 weeks
- SPEAK UP at your hair appointments : If your hair feels too tight or pulling on your hairline then let your stylist know straight away instead of dealing with the problem overnight.
FAQ’s re; Protective Hairstyle

1: Do protective hairstyles help your hair grow?

Protective styles don’t grow your hair but help with retaining length and holding onto hair that would have been lost from daily styling and over manipulation. When removing the hairstyle, you’re likely to see a lot of shed hair. But don’t panic! Your hair sheds up to 100 hairs per day so just view it as trapped dead hair that doesn’t have anywhere to go. This doesn’t mean you shouldn’t be careful and patient when removing the style. Saturate your hands with oils to make the loosening process easier and finger detangle first before following up with a wide tooth comb.

2: How long should you let your hair breathe between protective styles?

Ideally 2 weeks. Give your hair time to breathe before following up with your next protective style. It might be worth alternating styles too if you find certain parts of your hair weaker than others. The same applies for bun and ponytail styles. Always alternate your parting so you’re not putting too much tension on one side.

3: What is the longest lasting protective hairstyle?

Braids are the longest lasting style as they tend to last 8 to 12 weeks. Other styles such as crochet braids or sew-ins are a close second as they last up to 8 weeks. If you’re not a fan of protective styles which includes the use of added hair then mini twists and flat twists are a great option. If you’re a fan of wigs than that another win win! You can get your hair cornrowed underneath and leave them in for up to 6 weeks at a time.

4: What protective style is the least damaging?

Cornrow based styles such as crochet braids, cornrows with or without braiding hair are the best protective hairstyle to minimise damage. Your hair is completely tucked away and the hair used is quite light and doesn’t weigh down your hair. Sew-ins with minimal leave out or closure is also a safe style due to the cornrow base. If you’re a fan of braids then stick to medium sized braids that aren’t too tight so it doesn’t pull on your hairline.

5: How to prep hair for a protective style?

Your hair should be freshly washed and fully hydrated before installing any protective style. Here are some steps to follow
1. Use a clarifying shampoo to strip any dirt or build up. Then follow up with a moisturising/hydrating shampoo
2. Apply a moisturising treatment for at least 30 mins, using heat or steam to help the product penetrate through. Read or guide for Deep Conditioning Type 4 hair for product recommendations.
3. Once rinsed out, apply a leave-in conditioner (always do this in sections of 4 to ensure the product is equally distributed).
4. Seal your ends with an oil to help keep the moisture locked into your strands. Read our guide for on sealing vs moisturizing oils to know what products to use.
5. Airdry or blow dry as you desire
BONUS TIP : If you’re using braiding hair or extensions then wash the hair prior to installation to remove any chemicals or dirt that may cause irritation to your scalp You can also do an apple cider vinegar rinse.

FINAL THOUGHTS

Understanding the pros and cons of your protective hairstyle is crucial for maintaining healthy natural hair. Opt for styles that fully protect your hair or has minimal leave-out. Before installation, prep your hair thoroughly and ensure it’s well moisturised before sealing with an oil.

Regularly clarify and hydrate your scalp to promote cleanliness and keep your hair healthy. Creating a clean environment minimises product buildup, allowing your hair to thrive.

What’s your experience with protective styles? Share your tips and thoughts in the comments!
July 1, 2024
15 Hair Growth Tips For 4C Natural Hair
Out of all the Type 4 hair types, 4C hair is known to be the tightest and coarsest out of all the afro hair textures. The curl pattern is quite unique and made out of really tight zig-zag curls and coils which are closely packed together. 4C Hair is probably the most popular hair type for most Naturalistas and sometimes comes with its challenges when on a hair growth journey. This is due to the amount of shrinkage you’ll experience with this curl type. Despite its challenges – the texture it’s absolutely gorgeous and with the right hair maintenance routine and TLC – you’ll begin to love your 4C hair more and more.

There’s a misconception that 4C Hair can’t grow but we’re here to dispel that myth with 15 tips to help you make the most of your hair 4C hair growth journey whilst falling in love with your texture at the same time.

Characteristics of 4C Natural Hair

4C and 4B hair can be easily confused due to the similarities of their coil patterns. If you’re unsure if you have 4C hair – here are some characteristics to help you figure it out.
- Tight Z shaped pattern
- Coily hair texture
- Significant shrinkage, up to 70% of your stretched
- Strands clump together
- Thick and coarse hair (although it’s also possible to have fine 4c hair)
- Prone to tangles and breakage
Source : GIPHY

NOTE : It’s definitely possible to have multiple textures. For instance I have a mix of 4B and 4C hair strands but one texture is likely to outweigh the other.

15 4C Natural Hair Growth Tips to Try

1.Detangle with care

This is the stage where you’re likely to lose most of your new hair growth and length. Especially if you don’t exercise patience and use some TLC. The 4C hair texture is prone to tangling and knots so using the right technique and products is the best way to minimise any hair loss you’ve worked so hard to grow and retain. Here are some detangling tips to follow:
- Spritz your hair with water to make it easier to work with
- Finger detangle first before using detangling tools
- Use the right detangling tool such as a wide tooth comb. Be careful with detangling brushes, sometimes they can rip out more hair then intended. You can always use a flexi detangling brush which glides with the direction of your hair
- Use a detangler to give you extra slip. If you don’t have a detangler then use conditioner
- Always works in sections – ideally 4 but if you have shorter hair then 6 to 8
Source : Pexels

2. Dry hair in stretched state

This is KEY. 4C hair shrinks up to 70% of its stretched state so it’s important to dry hair stretched to minimise further pulling and tugging when it’s time to style your hair. Some benefits of working on stretched hair are as follows:
- You can track your hair growth better
- Minimises knots and tangles
- Minimises over manipulation from detangling
- Easier to work with
3. Moisture, moisture and more moisture

We’ve all heard moisture is key to retain length for Type 4 hair textures. As 4C hair is naturally dry – you want to spend more time moisturising your hair to prevent breakage tangles and knots. Ideally you’ll want to use a method that helps lock in the moisture for longer such as the LOC or LCO method. Your hair porosity will determine which method is better, click here to read our post on Hair Porosity which gives you a breakdown on how to do a porosity test!

4. Scalp massages

“Research conducted back in 2016 and 2019 found that regular scalp massages led to thicker hair strands. The study was conducted on 9 men who spent 4 mins a day massaging their scalp over a 24 week period. The results found a significant increase in hair thickness at the 24 week mark compared to when they initially started.”¹

Scalp massages are known to increase the blood flow into your hair follicles supporting you to achieve hair growth goals. Although it might be difficult to do this daily, you’ll want to incorporate it into your routine at least a couple times a week. You can use your finger tips or purchase a head massager. If you’d like to take this a step further then you can massage your scalp with a growth oil. The length of time you spend massaging your scalp also has a part to play. To increase the blood flowing to your follicles do it for at least 5 minutes for optimal results.

Source : GIPHY

5. Heat is not the enemy

We’ve all heard not to use heat as it damages hair but the truth is heat is not the enemy. Excessive heat styling is the enemy! As 4C hair is fine and can break easily – you’ll definitely want to minimise the amount of times you heat but there is no harm in using it on wash days. Specifically blow drying your hair on a low heat setting to get it fully stretched. You’ll want to limit your heat usage to once or twice a month and use a heat protectant. Don’t be heavy handed when blow drying. There are a lot of straight naturals whose hair are thriving from using heat in moderation. It’s all about how you maintain the style and do not go back in to blow dry or straighten everyday.

I recently received some feedback from my hairstylist who recommended I use heat to blow dry my hair as I wasn’t retaining enough of my new growth with my regular air drying method. I usually air dry with twists but it shrinks in a shrunken state which leads to me having to spend more time detangling when styling my hair leading to more hair loss. I’ve noticed my hair is a lot easier to style once dry. If you’ll be using a blow dry I recommend doing it once or twice a month on a low setting and you can follow up with higher heat setting for a short while to minimise your heat usage.

6. Protective styling

This is key for retaining your length. Protective styles help keep your ends tucked away and minimises over manipulation from daily styling. The great thing about these styles is there are multiple options available depending on your preference. To make the most of your 4C Natural hair growth, it’s best to opt for cornrow based hair styles if possible as your hair is completely protected underneath. Styles such as sew-ins, cornrows with or without braiding hair and crochet braids are some fan favourites. If you prefer other styles, you can try the following;
- Braids (avoid medium sized braids)
- Mini Twists (with or without extensions)
- Bantu knots
- Flat Twists
- African Threading
Source : Pexels

Regardless of the style you choose, don’t keep your style in for longer than 8 weeks! Have you ever worn a protective style for too long and noticed build up, dryness and difficulty detangling your hair? Well that’s because you’ve kept the style in for too long and probably didn’t have a natural hair care routine whilst wearing the style. As most protective styles utilise some form of extensions – you want to ensure you’re not wearing them for too long so it’s not adding tension to your hairline but also give you an opportunity to fully cleanse your hair and get rid of dead hair that has been trapped in the style.

7. Create a protective styling regimen

Protective styling doesn’t mean you shouldn’t wash or cleanse your hair. In fact, for 4C natural hair to grow – it’s important to have a clean scalp so your hair can thrive. Adopting little things such as moisturising regularly, washing your scalp and sealing your hair with an oil prevents your hair from drying out and helps your hair remain healthy. Depending on the style you choose, you’re likely to have different maintenance routine but here are a couple options you can adopt to help you out:
1. Wash hair at least every 3 to 4 weeks
2. Spritz hair with a leave-in conditioner at least once a week and seal with an oil. If you have a cream based leave in conditioner, you can mix it with water in a spray bottle to create a liquid mixture
3. Use a growth oil but be careful not clog up your follicles. Your scalp naturally produces oils so you don’t want to be too heavy handed with the amount you apply. Start with once a week and then decide if you should do it more or less depending on your hair needs. Also, make sure you massage the oil into your scalp
4. Take extra care with your edges. If you feel the style is adding too much tension to your hairline then it’s best to take it out to minimise any damage.
8. Take a break in between protective styling

Doing the same protective styling back to back is not the best way to achieve hair growth. You want to give your hair a break in between styles and let your scalp breath. Although protective styling is great for hair retention and hair growth, most of the styles add tension to your hairline which will make it slightly fragile. Opt for different styles in between the breaks such as buns, twist outs and braid outs to give your hair a break prior to installing your next style.

Source : Unsplash

10. Cleansing routine

Wash days can be a pain at times but it’s important to have a clean scalp for your 4C hair to grow. Unfortunately the myth of dirty hair helping hair grow isn’t true! Think about it like this – you won’t go days without washing your face because it’ll lead to clogged up pores, irritation and you’ll eventually end up with pimples and spots. Well the same applies to your hair. If you spend so much attention and care on your skin regimen then you need to do the same for your scalp. Dirt clogs up hair follicles, leads to itchiness and irritation – you want to make sure your scalp and hair is in the best condition to create an environment for your hair to thrive.

9. Trim ends regularly

Don’t skip trimming your ends! It’s as simple as that! Try and trim your hair every 12 weeks. If your hair is already damaged you might do it a bit more regularly such as the 8 – 10 week mark to get rid of any split ends and damage sooner. If your hair is healthy and you’ll like to stretch your trims a bit longer then don’t go past the 16 week mark. You’ll figure out what works best for you once you start incorporating trims into your regimen. Read our article on the benefits of trimming for length retention to learn more.

11. Don’t be a product junkie

We’ve all been guilty of doing this at one point during our natural hair journey. Trust me I’ve been there – buying things because one Naturalista says it works for them, you try it and don’t have the same results and then it sits on the shelf for years. When choosing products, try products that are recommended from other 4C Naturalistas. If possible purchase a tester bottle or the smallest size to see how your hair reacts. Pay attention to whether the products you’re using cause more drying or excessive build up to know if you should continue or not.

One of the things that was a game changer for me was paying attention to how my hair reacted to products after I used it to decide if I should continue or not. There are so many options on the market, you’ll find something that works for you. Once you do, stick to it and you’ll begin to see a difference.

Source : iStock by GettyImages

12. Deep conditioning treatments

4C hair benefits a lot from deep conditioning due to the coil pattern drying out easily. They add extra nourishment and hydration to your hair whilst strengthening your hair cuticles. Definitely apply heat when doing the treatment to help the product penetrate deep into your hair shaft. Do this at least once a month and to get the full benefits. Read our guide on deep conditioning for type 4 hair and if you’re interested in DIY recipes then check out this article on homemade deep conditioners to try for natural hair.

13. Make sure hair isn’t too tight

As you’ll be wearing protective styles regularly to retain length, you want to make sure your hairstyle isn’t too tight. Especially when wearing buns and ponytail styles. Speak up during your appointments when getting braids or twists – if the stylist is braiding too tightly tell them right away instead of waiting to the end. You want to avoid any excessive tension that will lead to hair loss and eventually lead to alopecia. This is why cornrow based protective styles tend to be a better option for hair growth.

15. Pay attention to your scalp

We regularly ignore our scalp in comparison to our hair. 4C hair growth begins at the scalp as that’s where the follicles are based so it’s important to pay attention to your scalp and assess it. If you experience excessive itchiness, dryness or flakes then it might be worth doing a scalp treatment to help eradicate the problem. There are multiple scalp treatments on the market so do your research and if you’re unsure then go to a natural hair salon who specialises in type 4 hair who can give you some advice on what treatment to try.

14. Protect your hair at night

This is a golden rule, sleep with a silk or satin scarf AND/OR bonnet. If you struggle with your scarf staying on all night then you can purchase a silk or satin pillowcase for added protection. Cotton pillowcases are known for drying out hair whilst silk pillowcases help keep moisture in your coils/curls for longer. Satin pillowcases too, tend to be significantly cheaper than silk but it won’t retain moisture as well as silk.

Source : Pexels

Bonus tip – Diet and Health!

It’s always good to maintain a good diet, you want to ensure you’re nourished from the inside out. Eating a balanced diet of healthy foods such as vegetables, lean meats and fish will contribute to you achieving your 4C natural hair growth goals. Hair is made of protein and for your 4C natural hair to thrive you need a balance of protein and moisture. Increasing your protein intake can contribute to hair growth and healthy hair.

FAQS

1: What helps 4C hair grow faster?

Hair growth begins with your scalp and various factors can contribute to how fast it grows such as genetics, eating habits and supplements. As a result, some 4C Naturals hair will grow faster than others. The key to 4C hair growth is a consistent regimen that helps you maintain healthy hair and retain length. Some things that can help speed up your hair growth such as scalp massages and using supplements like biotin. You can also use hair growth oils such as Jamaican black castor oil and rosemary oil but remember consistency is key! Don’t use these things in isolation and they must be used over a lengthy period of time i.e 3 to 6 months to see results. Incorporate them with some of the 15 tips we mentioned above and you’ll see an improvement.

2: Is 4C hair the hardest to grow?

4C hair is naturally dry, fragile and brittle in comparison to other hair types which means it is prone to breakage and damage. The coils clump together and you experience a significant amount of shrinkage which makes it appear like your hair isn’t growing even though it is. The hardest part of hair growth for any Type 4 hair is length retention! Your hair is growing but due to styling and over manipulation – you’re probably not holding onto enough of your new growth which is why protective styling and detangling with care are key contributors to 4c hair growth.

3: Why is my 4C natural hair always dry?

Due to the nature of the 4C coil pattern being really tight. Moisture can have a hard time penetrating through the hair strands making your hair appear dry and brittle. Getting the adequate amount of moisture into your 4C hair strands will keep it from drying out. Incorporating treatments like deep conditioning and hot oil treatments will help with moisture retention. But it’s also important to moisturise your hair regularly – depending on your hair porosity you can use the LOC or LCO methods to help the moisture stay in your strands for longer. It’s also important to use the right ingredients which have enough hydration. Using oils and butters alone will not moisturise your hair – it’ll just sit on top.

4: Should you moisturise 4c hair everyday?

You can definitely moisturise your 4C hair daily but just be mindful of over moisturising as it’ll make your hair limp and mushy if you don’t have the right moisture/protein balance. Personally, I would recommend moisturising every couple of days if you’re suffering from extreme dryness. This is why you have to be mindful of what hair products you use. When testing products, see how your hair reacts to it. Ask yourself: “Is it drying my hair out OR does it just sit on top of my hair strands?” AND “Does my hair feel moisturised and hydrated?”

There is no harm in refreshing your hair daily with a spray bottle that contains a mixture of water and leave in conditioner. Just be mindful that if you’ve sealed your hair with an oil or butter – it might not penetrate all the way through. Read our post on moisturising vs sealing oils to understand which one you should incorporate into your moisturising routine.

Check out this video to learn more about when and how to moisturise 4C natural hair:

FINAL THOUGHTS

As you can see, maintaining, growing and retaining 4C hair requires a variety of different elements incorporated into your hair regimen for your hair to thrive. The key is consistency and patience. If you try one of the tips and it doesn’t work for you then it’s okay to drop it. You have to trust the process and give yourself a bit of time to see results. Remember – your hair is beautiful, enjoy the process and embrace the journey. You can’t change the hair on your head but you can grow to love it by knowing how to care for it properly.

We hope this post helped you, we’d love to hear from you in the comment section.

What’s been your biggest struggle with your 4C hair growth journey? OR What have you found most useful and helpful to achieve your 4C hair growth goals?

REFERENCES
1. Standardized Scalp Massage Results in Increased Hair Thickness by Inducing Stretching Forces to Dermal Papilla Cells in the Subcutaneous Tissue : Taro Koyama, PHD, MD, Kazuhiro Kobayashi MD, Takanori Hama, Kasumi Murakami and Rei Ogawa, PHD, MD. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/ar ticles/PMC4740347/ ↩︎
December 27, 2023
Mini Twists! The Ultimate Style for Retention & Hair Growth
Mini Twists have become more and more popular over the last couple of months. If you’re on social media platforms such as TikTok and Instagram, you’ll see countless videos of why Natural Hair Girlies are loving this style. The term mini twists has generated millions of views on Tiktok, 27.4 mill to be exact and still climbing. Apart from the fact that it’s a great protective style. Naturalistas are boasting about the amount of hair growth and length they’re able to retain whilst rocking mini twists. So if you’re on the market for a new protective style that helps you achieve your natural hair growth goals, then mini twists might be the style for you! It’s easy to maintain and has multiple styling options.

We’ll cover everything you need to know to help you figure out if this is a hairstyle you should incorporate it into your natural hair routine more regularly. Keep reading to learn more!

Are Mini Twists Good For Natural Hair?

In a nutshell YES! Mini Twists are GREAT for natural hair especially Type 4 Naturalistas. They’re a protective style which minimises daily manipulation and helps you hold onto your new hair growth whilst retaining length. The twists are created by dividing your hair into small sections and then wrapping/rotating the strands of your hair across each other from root to tip until the twists are formed. The style can be done on any length or texture with or without the use of natural hair extensions.

Do Mini Twists Contribute To Hair Growth?

Twists alone can’t grow your hair as there are many factors that affect how quickly your hair grows such as genetics, scalp health, hair health etc. However, Twists can contribute to your hair’s growth ensuring your holding onto that new growth and retaining as much length as possible whilst wearing them. Here are 5 ways Mini Twists contribute to your hair growth.
1. Protected ends : Your ends are protected in this style minimising wear and tear that comes with daily styling.
2. Low tension Style : It’s a low tension style which reduces stress on your hairline and scalp keeping your hair in a healthy state which in return promotes hair growth
3. Prevents single strand knots : As your hair is protected and tucked away, it reduces any excessive shedding and breakage that may come with daily manipulation and over styling.
4. Prevents breakage : Keeping your hair in a protective style can help prevent excess breakage
5. Helps retain moisture : you’ll be moisturising your twists regularly and oiling your scalp to prevent dryness. This will strengthen your hair strands and improve your hair’s elasticity.
Take a look Shaneal’s hair growth comparison pics whilst wearing mini twists. Her instagram page @curlcodeblack documents her hair growth journey and you’ll notice mini twists are a regular part of her protective styling routine.

Aside from mini twists promoting hair growth, there are also other benefits to rocking this style. Such as,
- Easy to maintain
- Versatile Styling Options
- Easy removal process
- Reduces tangles
- Keeps scalp accessible
- Doubles up as a twist out after removal
How to do Mini twists?

Mini Twists are easy to do and are an inexpensive hairstyle which can be done by yourself as opposed to going to a hairstylist. All you need is a couple of hours, some patience and remember practice makes perfect. They may not look exactly how you envisioned the first time round but you’ll get better at it the more you do it. If you’re thinking about using hair extensions then it might be worth getting a friend to help or watching a tutorial to understand how to attach the extensions to your natural hair.

Before we get started on how to install your mini twists. You’ll need the following tools;
- Wash day products (Shampoo, Conditioner, Leave in)
- Detangling Brush
- Rat Tail comb
- Hair Clips/Separators
- A Twisting Butter or Cream
- Gel (Optional)
Step by Step Guide for Installing Mini Twists

Step 1 – Start off with freshly cleansed hair:

Follow your normal wash day routine. We recommend doing a deep conditioning treatment prior to getting any protective style to ensure the moisture from the product has fully penetrated through your hair strands.

Step 2 – Moisturise your hair and detangle thoroughly:

Apply your leave-in conditioner on damp hair and work through from root to tip. Finger detangle once product has been applied and follow up with a detangling brush to ensure product has been worked through all your hair strands whilst making sure your hair is fully detangled.

Step 3 – Section hair into 4 Parts:

You’ll be working in sections for this style, you’ll start with big sections and each section will get smaller as you go along. Use your hair clips to keep the hair in their allocated sections. You can also twist or braid each section if you prefer.

Step 4 – Work on 1 section at a time and split into smaller parts:

Use a rat tail comb to split the section into smaller parts of 1 – 2 inches depending on the size you’re trying to achieve. Apply your twisting butter or cream to the parted section to prep for twisting

Step 5 – Start twisting:

Separate the part you created into 2 equal parts and begin to twist the hair around each other in a rope like motion from root to tip. As you get towards the ends, you may need to apply more cream or butter if it feels dry and then twirl the ends with your fingers once the twist is complete.

Step 6 – Repeat:

Continue step 5 until you’ve completed your whole head of hair. TIP – It’s okay to take a break in between sections. The key is to be patient and not rush the process so your twists come out equally.

Step 7 – Seal ends with an oil:

Seal your ends with a lightweight oil such as jojoba, grapeseed or almond oil to lock in moisture.

NOTE: If you’re interested in doing the 3 strand twists, the process is pretty much the same. The difference is you’ll be splitting the parts into 3 sections and twist around each other. As a beginner, it’s best to stick to 2 strand twists until you’ve got the hang of things.

How long should I keep my mini twists?

Your twists have now been successfully installed so you’re probably wondering how long you should keep them in. The recommendation is anything from 4 – 8 weeks. Like any protective style, you’ll need to follow a maintenance routine to keep your scalp healthy to aid hair growth whilst wearing your mini twists. The great thing about mini twists is they’re easy to maintain and practical so your wash day doesn’t take as long as it normally does. One thing to bear in mind is that twists can loc your hair if they’re not properly maintained so make sure to create a maintenance routine you can stick to and pay attention to your twists especially at the roots if you decide to wear them for slightly longer.

How should I maintain my mini twists for hair growth?

Here are some things you can incorporate into your twist hair growth routine.

1. Keep on top of wash days

To keep your scalp healthy and minimise build up, you’ll want to stick to regular cleansing of your hair. To achieve hair growth whilst wearing your mini twists, you need to keep your scalp clean so it can thrive. It’s also best to wash your hair in sections to minimise frizz and stop the twists from rubbing against each other. You can always apply a mousse once you’ve finished to help with the frizz. Also, don’t forget to use a conditioner and apply a leave-in once you’ve finished shampooing.

2. Sleep with a silk or satin scarf and or bonnet

This is a must do if you want to retain moisture and minimise frizz. It’ll keep your hair neat and help you maintain your twists for longer. You can also sleep with a silk or satin pillowcase for that extra protection.

3. Avoid wearing your twists down all the time

Luckily, there are endless styling options when wearing this style. You’ll want to avoid wearing your hair down all the time so it doesn’t rub against your clothing. Hair rubbing against clothes can cause split ends and breakage. Although your hair is protected in twists, it’s worth being mindful of this especially if you wear alot of cotton. Cotton dries out hair and makes it harder for it to retain moisture.

4. Moisturise and seal your hair regularly

Afro textured hair thrives on moisture so make sure you do this 2 – 3 times a week if you want to achieve optimal growth and retain length whilst wearing your mini twists. You can mix your water with a leave-in conditioner and spritz on your hair. Then follow up with a lightweight oil to seal in the moisture

5. Apply hair growth oil

If hair growth is the main reason you’re interested in trying this style, then there’s no harm using a hair growth oil. Although these oils aren’t solely responsible for growing your hair. It can help it grow a little bit faster. Just be careful not to be heavy handed when applying to avoid product build up. Remember, to massage the oil into your scalp to improve blood circulation in the area.

How do you refresh mini twists?

Your twists won’t need to be refreshed very often if you’re keeping up with your maintenance routine. However, if you feel your twists are unravelling and not as neat as you would like. You can always re-do the twists around your hairline and nape of your neck to give it a fresher look. Just be careful when unravelling your twists as you don’t want to tug or pull on it. Apply an oil to the twists and unravel from tip to roots. Once unravelled, spritz your hair with water and detangle. We find finger detangling first and then following up with your detangling tool of choice is the best way to detangle without tugging or pulling on your hair.

6 Ways to Style Mini Twists

You won’t be bored when wearing mini twists, there are several styling options which makes this style more fun to wear. We’ve featured some of our favourite Naturalista’s for styling inspiration.

1. Bun and Ponytail styles

Credit : @curlcodeblack

2. Tribal Cornrows with Mini Twists

Credit : @opaglamz

3. Side Part Bun

Credit : @type4.hair

4. Claw Clip

Credit : @the.natural.breona

5. Mini Twists with Curly ends

Credit : @bohosoulsalon (Stylist) @nyreephotography (Photographer) @silk_sachet (Model)

6. Space Buns

Credit : @yolandaas

* We’ve linked the instagram pages of all the Naturalistas featured. Feel free to check out their instagram pages for more natural hair inspo and give them a follow!

Mini Twist FAQ’s

1: Can mini twists turn into locs/dreads?

This isn’t something you need to worry about if you’re wearing the style for a short period of time. Although, two strand twists are known to be a loc’ing method. They only begin to loc when you keep them in for long periods. The locs tend to form from 6 – 24 months and there is a process you need to follow to keep the twists from unravelling to achieve dreadlocks. If you’re interested in using the method to to start your loc or dreads journey then it’s best to go to a stylist who specialises in this to help you achieve your desired look.

2: Should you put mini twists in wet or dry hair?

Installing twists on wet or dry hair is a personal preference. There isn’t a right or wrong way! Both have their pros and cons depending on what look you’re trying to achieve. If you’re a beginner, the recommendation is to do it on dry hair. Dry hair is easier to work with and will make parting a lot easier. Whilst wet hair is more fragile and your hair is likely to get dry half way through completing the twists.

For the best of both worlds, we recommend working on dry hair to make parting and sectioning easier. You can then spritz each parted section with water prior to applying your twisting cream or butter. Working on damp hair will help your product penetrate through your hair strands. It’ll also give your twists a tighter hold and your ends will have a slight curl. Do what works best for you, and if you’re in doubt watch a couple youtube tutorials to help you decide.

3: How long does it take to get mini twists?

Mini Twists can take anything from 3 hours to 6 hours depending on your hairs length and density. The size of your twists will also have a part to play in timings. If it’s your first time doing them by yourself then it’s best to allocate a full day. You’re likely to take breaks in between from your arms hurting and if you’re not used to parting your hair it’ll take you a little longer to get used to. Feel free to get a friend to help to speed up the process or you can go to a hairstylist if you want to save some time.

Final Thoughts

Mini Twists are a great protective style to help you achieve hair growth and retain length. Like any protective style, it’s important to have a maintenance routine to keep your scalp and hair healthy. It’s easy to maintain without adding any tension to your scalp which is a plus when trying to grow out your hair. Plus, there are so many styling options which makes it a fun style. We can see why mini twists has grown in popularity over the last couple of years.

We’re hoping you’ve taken some inspiration from the Naturalistas featured and want to take this opportunity to thank them for letting us share their pictures in this article.

Have you tried mini twists before? What has your experience been like using mini twists to achieve hair growth?
September 23, 2023