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Tag: Natural Hair Care

Silk Press Tips : 10 Maintenance Tricks You Need To Know
As much as we love silk presses! The hardest part of getting a silk press is the maintenance and getting it to last without reverting and heat damage. Most Naturalistas struggle with their curl pattern reverting once they get in contact with steam, heat or sweat. Especially Type 4 Naturalistas who have a coarser and tighter texture. We’ll be delving into some silk press tips to help you get the most out of the style. Plus run through some FAQ’s to help you care for your coils and curls.

Silk presses are great for switching up your natural kinks, coils and curls for a sleeker and straighter look. It gives you a new look without having to chemically alter your hair strands with relaxers, keratin treatments and texture releases. They’re awesome for when you want to wear straighter hairstyles for special occasions like weddings, events, nights out etc. Once you get a silk press – you feel like a new person. To be honest – with any hairstyle you feel like a new woman! You can go from being Brandy with braids to Nia Long with a pixie cut and Beyonce with a weave. That’s the beauty of natural hair – you have so much versatility with your styling options.

What is a silk press?

A silk press is a technique used to straighten your Type 3 & Type 4 hair texture without using any form of chemicals. The process differs from using just a flat iron due to the technique and products used to give it the soft and silky look without weighing down your natural hair. It’s basically a wash, blow dry and press using lightweight serums and leave ins.

The technique includes blow drying your coils and curls in a stretched straight state to achieve a blowout look. Followed up with a flat iron to help seal in that extra smoothness and silkiness with 1 to 2 passes. If done correctly, you shouldn’t have any heat damage and your hair should revert back to its natural state once you wash it.

How long does a silk press last?

They typically last 2 to 4 weeks depending on how you maintain it. It’s likely your roots will become puffier at the end of the 2nd week due to sweat, moisture and weather. However, the majority of your hair should still remain straight until you fully saturate your hair with water and wash your hair. Some naturals will have slightly longer results if they silk press regularly and have trained their hair.

Source : Nappy Images @reishareynolds

10 Tips & Tricks for making your Silk Press last longer

1. Avoid Moisture

We all know moisture is key for natural hair to grow and thrive but in a silk press environment. Moisture and humidity is the enemy! Once you get in contact with it – your hair will begin to revert and puff up again. Now there will be points of the day it’ll be impossible to stay away from moisture completely. For instance – when you shower in the morning, sweat from working out and humid or rainy weather conditions.

Here are some tips on how you can minimise moisture whilst rocking your silk press:
- Showering
- Wrap your hair tightly in a scarf (in fact 2 for that extra protection), then bonnet and wear a shower cap on top to lock out the steam
- You might want to shower with lukewarm water as opposed to a higher temperature to reduce the steam.
- Washing your face
- Make sure your hair is wrapped or pinned away before washing your face. For extra protection, wear a towel headband along your hairline. This will help soak excess water and stop it from travelling to the rest of your hair
- Working out
- Wear your hair in a ponytail and apply a scarf. Wear a sweatband on your forehead or directly on top of your hairline to soak up the sweat
- DO NOT remove your scarf until your hair is completely dry! This will help your hair dry back in a stretched state as opposed to reverting
2. Prep your Hair – Clarify and Deep Conditioning Treatment

Prepping your hair is a really important step if you want your silk press to last. To get a nice flowy look your hair needs to be washed thoroughly and all product build up should be removed from your hair and scalp. Silk presses won’t last on dirty hair – simple as! So wash your hair with a clarifying shampoo and then follow up with a moisturising shampoo to make sure your scalp is clean.

It’s also important to get as much moisture locked into your hair strands prior to the straightening process. Get a deep conditioning treatment with hydration benefits and use steam to help the product penetrate through your hair shaft. Then follow up with a liquid based leave in conditioner. This helps you lock in as much moisture as possible to keep your hair healthy and not dry whilst wearing the style.

Source : GIPHY @shalitagrant

3. Stay away from water based and heavy products

Water will revert your hair so you want to stay away from any moisturisers that contain liquid. Instead you’ll want to use lightweight oils and serums. Be careful not to be too heavy handed with products. The last thing you’ll want is greasy looking hair. Too much product on your silk press will weigh it down and you’ll no longer have that flowy silky look.

4. Wrap your hair at night

Don’t go to bed without wrapping your hair no matter how tired you are! Trust me, you’ll regret it in the morning. Wrap your hair at night with a silk scarf and then wear a bonnet on top. For extra protection opt for a satin or silk pillowcase in case your scarf wants to go for walkies in the middle of the night! (Bad joke! But you get the gist).

5. Touch up on a low setting

You want to avoid re-adding heat to your hair once your silk press has been done. But may need to touch up your hair depending on how long you plan to wear your silk press for. To avoid any form of heat damage, stick to blow drying your roots on a low setting. We’d avoid re-straightening but if you have to – work in sections and do 1 pass. Your silk press should look as good as brand new with a touch up here and there.

6. Style with flexi rods and pin curls once your roots start frizzing

This is one of our fav tips to get more out of your silk press without having to reapply heat. You can experiment with flexi rods, rollers and pin curls. It won’t be super sleek but it’ll still be straight with a slight bounce to it. This is a great way of styling out puffy roots whilst making the most of your press. You can go a step further by experimenting with different styles. You could do a half up half down style or pin up part of your hair with a claw clip.

Source : Unsplash @eyeforebony

7. Try a Dry Shampoo

If your hair is becoming greasy from oils/serums starting to weigh your hair down. You can use a dry shampoo to remove the grease and stretch your style for another week or 2. It’s important not to be heavy handed with products when wearing a silk press so bear that in mind when styling your hair daily.

8. Use products that fight away humidity

There are various products on the market that help fight away frizz so opt for products that have these properties when choosing, serums, oils and heat protectants. Although these ingredients don’t completely get rid of humidity – it definitely helps keep it at bay making your style last longer.

9. Use wax sticks & edge control

It’s likely you’ll have multiple fly aways after getting a silk press. Instead of re-straightening and trying to get them completely perfect – use a wax stick to keep them in place. Style your edges with edge control and not gel. Gel has liquid based properties and will lead to frizz.

10. Go to a Professional

If you’re unsure of how to do a silk press then go to a professional who specialises in it. Ask for some tips on how to maintain your silk press and get some product recommendations. Talk the stylist through pain points you’ve had in the past and they should be able to offer you a tailored solution that’ll work best for your hair type and lifestyle.

Source : Pexels @rdnestockproject

Product Recommendations

Here are some popular products recommended by Naturalista’s who regularly get a silk press.

1. Chi Silk Infusion

2. BioSilk Silk Therapy

3. Design Essentials Agave & Lavender weightless Thermal Protectant Serum

4. Living Proof Instant De-Frizzer (Unfortunately, the Humidity Shield was discontinued)

5. Color Wow Dreamcoat Spray (This product is designed to keep out humidity. Th extra strength is better suited for Type 4 naturals and must be used on damp hair prior to blow drying)

Frequently Asked Questions

1: How do I keep my silk press from frizzing?

The key is to stay away from moisture and humidity. Wrap your hair whenever you’re at home with a silk or satin scarf to minimise your ends from rubbing on your clothes. Use products with anti frizz properties and you might want to try a hair spray you can lightly mist your hair with prior to heading out. You’ll also want to be mindful of how you style your hair in very humid conditions.

2: How do I make my silk press look fuller?

Add flat curls to your ends or bump your ends with a straightener to help add volume. You can also add some soft rollers at night to give you that 90’s blow out look that is straight but still full of volume. If your hair is really fine – you can add a couple tracks that match your hair texture for more volume. It doesn’t have to be a lot – 2 – 4 tracks will suffice.

3: How damaging is a silk press?

If done correctly, you shouldn’t experience any damage from a silk press. Heat doesn’t damage hair but EXCESSIVE HEAT damages hair! Prior to getting a silk press make sure your hair is in a healthy state and not already damaged. If you have split ends, it’s best to get them snipped to prevent it from travelling further. If your hair is damaged from colour or excessive breakage then it’s best to stay away from silk presses until you nourish your hair back to health.

Once you wash your hair, your natural curls and coils will revert. Just be mindful of how often you get a silk press and not re-adding heat constantly to keep your hair healthy.

4: Can you workout with a silk press?

Yes – you can workout with a silk press but have to be extra careful with your maintenance routine. Here are some steps to follow;
- Step 1 : Put hair in a high ponytail
- Step 2 : Apply a scarf
- Step 3 : Place a sweatband on top to soak up any sweat along your hairline
- Step 4 : DO NOT REMOVE your scarf until your hair is fully dry!
- Step 5 : Once dry – style as normal or wrap your hair
FINAL THOUGHTS

We hope you found our silk press tips helpful. Silk Presses are great but it’s all about the technique and products you use to get your hair in a silky straight state. Make sure to do the prep needed to get enough moisture into your hair strands to keep your hair healthy.

Source: GIPHY @ashtaeproducts

Have you tried any of these TIP’s? Do you have any further suggestions?

We’d love to hear from you. Leave a comment below
January 17, 2024
The truth about braids for hair growth & length retention
Braids are one of the most popular protective hairstyles for black women. They’re the perfect holiday hairstyle, last a long time, easy to style and keep your ends protected. Braids can have a positive impact on length retention and helps you make the most of your new growth. How? You may wonder! Well, your hands are kept out of your hair whilst wearing the style which minimises wear and tear that comes with daily styling. But with any protective style moderation is key! It’s also important to know how to maintain your natural hair whilst wearing braids to get the most out of your hair growth and minimise any breakage or excessive shedding when you finally decide to take them out.

We’ll be giving you a run down on how braids can contribute to your hair growth goals. Plus TIP’s on what TO DO/ NOT DO to make the most of your length retention whilst wearing your braids.

Are braids good for length retention?

Braids are a great way to retain length but to get the most out of your hair growth you need to ensure you maintain them effectively. The length, size and tightness of the braids all have a part to play. Here’s 3 ways braids contribute to length retention:
- Less Manipulation – when wearing braids, you don’t have to deal with daily styling! Your hair is left alone giving it the opportunity to thrive without constantly touching it. Excessive styling of hair is known to contribute to shedding and breakage if not done with the right styling tools, being done too frequently or being heavy handed. It’s okay to leave your hair alone and let it breathe which is what braids offer you.
- Minimal Detangling – Detangling is part and parcel of every Naturalista’s life. Type 4 hair is prone to tangling due to its tight curl pattern. When detangling, it’s all about detangling with care and using products with the right amount of slip to make the process easier. As your hair is tucked away in braids for at least 6 to 8 weeks – you’ll experience less hair loss from the detangling process.
- Protected Ends – The ends of our hair is the oldest part which means it’s prone to breakage, split ends and knots. Keeping ends protected helps minimise split ends travelling up the hair shaft and can contribute to length retention because you’ll be snipping a minimal amount when it’s time for your trim.
Can braids make your hair grow longer?

The truth is braids does not make your hair grow. There is a big misconception regarding growth and retention when it comes to braids. Scientifically, hair starts from “new cells forming in the hair bulb. Once the cells stick together and harden, the full strand of hair develops. They attach to the hair from below and gradually push up out of the skin”. ¹There are various phases to the hair growth cycle known as the Anagen, Transitional and Resting Phase. The Anagen phase is also known as the growth phase. “At any point in time, about 90 percent of a person’s total amount of hair is in this growth phase.” So as long as new cells are continuously created in the hair bulb then your hair is likely to grow longer. Click here to learn more about the hair growth cycle.

Now there are various things that can contribute to hair growth such as genetics, diet, lifestyle, hair maintenance routine etc. But braids alone can’t grow your hair. You’re likely to feel like your hair has grown quicker and longer faster because you can clearly see your new growth as your braids begin to grow out. The truth is the growth is just more visible because it’s more obvious compared to if you were wearing your hair in a bun or twist out everyday. Don’t let this discourage you from wearing braids because although it doesn’t contribute to growth. Braids help you retain length you wouldn’t have been able to hold onto if your hair wasn’t protected.

Is it healthy to put your hair in braids?

We’ve all seen the horror stories that come with braids, especially when you’ve seen people experience thinning edges, alopecia or scalp irritation. But it’s important to note that wearing braids is healthy whether you decide to use your own natural hair or braiding hair to create your braids. Aside from it being a great protective style, wearing braids can add many benefits to your natural hair. Here are 5 ways braids can contribute to your hairs health:
- Helps lock in moisture and hydration within the hair strands
- Prevents split ends for natural wear and tear
- Prevents breakage
- Protects hair whilst you sleep
- Low Maintenance
Are braids good for thinning hair?

In a nutshell NO. If you’re hair is already fragile and thinning. Wearing braids could lead to additional damage. Braids are usually done with synthetic or human braiding hair. Although they’re not heavy when you feel them, you’ll be attaching the braiding hair to individual strands of your hair which will add tension to your hair follicles. If you’re not careful – you could end up with alopecia.

So what’s the option if you like wearing braids. Well, you might want to opt for something like crochet braids. In this style, your hair is cornrowed down and the braiding hair is crochet’d on top of the cornrows. The reason why this method works so well is because your natural hair is already braided down to your scalp. Leading to less pulling on tugging on your natural hair when styling.

Why am I losing so much hair after braiding?

It’s normal for your hair to shed between 50 to 100 hairs a day. Once you’ve taken out your braids, it might feel like you’ve lost alot of hair but it’s most likely to be hair that shed and was trapped in between the braids. So don’t panic if you notice alot more hair falling out then you normally do. Now there’s a difference between shedding and breakage. I’d say it’s important to distinguish between the two to know if you should be panicking or not. A quick way to tell the difference between the two is shed hair tends to be the full length of your hair strand whereas breakage tends to be shorter and brittle strands.

Here are a few ways you can minimise excessive shedding and loss of healthy hair strands whilst removing your braids

1. Take ur time :

Don’t be in a rush when taking out your braids. Be prepared for it to take a couple of hours, you want to use the same amount of care at the beginning of the braid removal process as the last braid. You can rope in a friend and take breaks in between if needed.

2. Don’t be heavy handed :

This is pretty self-explanatory, it’s likely some of your braiding hair can get tangled with your hair when pulling or tugging. So be gentle to ensure you’re not pulling and ripping out your natural hair.

3. Loosen from the tip upwards :

Always loosen the braid from the tip before moving upwards.

4. Detangle with care :

You can use a detangling product and spritz your hair with water to make the detangling process easier. Depending on how long you’ve had your braids in, you’re likely to experience some build up. So take your time to remove the build up from each section as opposed to detangling it all at once. Remember: working in sections and on damp hair makes detangling easier.

How long should I wear my Braids? And How often do braids need to be re-done?

Stick to 8 weeks and if you want to stretch your braids a little longer than 10 weeks max. Like any protective style, there is a limit to how long you can wear it. For instance, if you keep your braids in for too long, you can end up with excessive buildup which would make the removal and detangling process harder.

Braids around your hairline tend to grow older quicker than the rest purely because it tends to be the shorter part of your hair but also because it’s the area you tend to style the most. You can always get this re-done around the 3 – 4 week mark. This helps the style look fresher but also minimises any pulling of the hair along your hair line.

Top Tips for Using Braids for Length Retention

Additional Tip’s for using braids to achieve optimal length retention

Having the right maintenance routine will have a huge impact on how much length you retain whilst wearing braids. We’ve broken down some Do’s & Don’ts of what to do to help you on your journey.

* TIP : Everyone’s hair is different so test them out and see how they work for you. You can always adopt the tips to suit you as and when needed.

Do’s of Wearing Braids for length retention

1. Wash your scalp :

We would recommend at least once a month if you want to limit frizz. How often you wash your braids really depends on your lifestyle. For instance, if you’re a regular in the gym and your scalp is itchy from sweat then you might want to wash your hair more often.

2. Ensure your hair is fully DRY :

This is an important step! If you’re hair is damp and not fully dry then you’ll have an irritable scalp and your braids will smell like mould. You can definitely air dry your braids but to speed things up then use a blow dryer to dry the roots and let the rest of your braids air dry.

3. Moisturise & Seal ends :

Get into the habit of moisturising and sealing your ends. Although your hair is protected, it still needs moisture to thrive and not become overly dry. You can mix your leave in conditioner with some water in a spray bottle and spritz across the length of your braids. For extra protection, seal with an oil to keep your hair hydrated for longer.

4. Re-do Braids Along Hairline:

If you noticed the braids along the hairline are pulling on your edges. Then theres no harm in re-doing it so it doesn’t rip out your hair. You can get it re-done every 3 – 4 weeks which will help keep your hair looking fresh and limit the damage to your hair follicles.

5. Have Break:

If braids are your go to style then have a break in between braids. Like any protective style, moderation is key. Excessively doing the same hairstyle can lead to damage so its best to give yourself at least a week or 2 break before re-braiding.

6. Speak Up:

If you notice your stylist is braiding your hair too tightly then speak up there and then! Don’t let your stylist go rogue with what they want to do and end up regretting it after. Let them know straight away if there pulling your hair too tight and stop them from continuing. Change stylists next time if you’re not happy.

Don’ts of Wearing Braids for length retention

1. Tight styles :

Don’t constantly wear your hair up or in tight ponytail styles. This adds tension to your hairline and can end up pulling on your hairline eventually damaging your hair follicles. This isn’t to say you cant wear your hair in buns or ponytails but just limit the amount of times and alternate your hairstyles.

2. Wear for too long

The advise is to stick to a maximum of 8 weeks. Some people do like to stretch their hairstyles so could potentially wear braids for longer such as 10 – 12 weeks. However, I wouldn’t go beyond that time and would pay extra attention to your hairline.

8 Ways to Style Your Braids

Final Thoughts

Braids are a great protective style and great way to maximise length retention. The key is to still have a maintenance routine whilst wearing them to ensure your hair and scalp is healthy. You’ll want to stick to medium sized braids and minimise tight hairstyles to make the most of your new hair growth. Braids offer you a variety of styling options whilst protecting your natural hair at the same time. It also requires minimal effort whilst wearing them so they’re a WIN WIN for Naturalista’s who don’t have as much time on their hands.

Here are some other braid articles that may be off interest to you;

How to Relieve Tight Braids and Treat Braid Bumps?

Everything you need to know about French Curl Braids

SOURCES :
1. What is the structure of hair and how does it grow? : IQWiG (Institute for Quality and Efficiency in Health Care) https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK546248/
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November 27, 2023
Moisturizing vs Sealing Oils – What’s the better option?
It’s easy to be confused about what hair oils to incorporate into your natural hair care routine. With so many oils on the market, it makes it difficult to figure out what oils to choose. Some oils act as a moisturizing agent whilst other oils work as a sealing agent. They both add great benefits to help you achieve healthy luscious locks. But what one should you be using? Moisturizing vs Sealing oils? This is the question many naturals ask but may not fully understand.

In this article, we’ll be breaking down the differences between the two types of oils to help you understand what to use and when.

Why Oils form an Important part of your hair journey?

Our scalp naturally produces oils, otherwise known as sebum which helps hydrate and protect our hair follicles. Studies show “sebum secretion can be normal, reduced or increased on the scalp of afro textured hair. But our curl pattern can impair the normal distribution of natural oils along the hair shaft from root to tip, giving it a dull and dry look.”¹ Which is why using hair oils can help with the additional distribution of the essential oils along the length of your hair strands.

Incorporating hair oils into your natural hair routine improves the overall health of your hair. Some of these benefits include;
- Strengthening your hair strands and cuticles
- Support with moisture retention
- Minimising the risk of breakage
- Promoting hair growth
- Reduces frizziness
- Adds extra shine
You can incorporate oils into your hair in many ways. It’s highly likely you’ve used oils for pre-poo treatments, hot oil treatments, sealing your ends and oiling your scalp. But it’s important to use the correct oils to get optimum results. Regardless of what treatment you’re doing, you’ll be using a moisturizing or sealing oil. Let’s delve into them in a bit more detail.

What are moisturizing oils?

Moisturizing oils penetrate right through the hair shaft to hydrate and moisturize your hair. It has the ability to penetrate through the inner and outer layers, helping you preserve moisture inside your hair follicles and preventing it from leaving. These types of oils support moisture retention and help strengthen your hair whilst reducing the possibility of breakage. You’re more likely to use these oils for hair treatments.

What are sealing oils?

Sealing oils lock in moisture and stop it from leaving your hair strands by sealing it in. They work a little differently to moisturizing oils, as the oils sit on top of the hair strands as opposed to entering the hair shaft. These oils act as a layer of protection to keep moisture in and stop it from evaporating. They tend to be slightly thicker in texture in comparison to moisturizing oils and usually used as a last step in your hair maintenance routine. You’re more likely to use these oils for daily styling and hair maintenance

Examples of Moisturizing VS Sealing Oils

When to use moisturizing vs sealing oils?

Moisturizing oils are best used for hair treatments due to its penetrating effects whilst sealing oils are best for every day styling and maintenance to lock in that moisture and keep it from escaping. Let’s talk about some treatments to help you understand how this works in reality!

Hot oil treatments :

Hot oil treatments are typically used in colder months and helps add extra shine and moisture to your hair. As the oil is warm or hot when applying, it penetrates through the hair shaft quickly as the heat helps open up the hair cuticles. This helps strengthen your hair follicles keeping your hair protected and hydrated. As the treatment is focussed on achieving moisture benefits – its best to use a moisturizing oil.

Pre-poo/Pre shampoo treatments :

Preppoo treatments act as moisturizing treatment which is applied to the scalp prior to shampooing your hair. Using oils with moisturizing benefits helps prepare your hair for cleansing. The oils protect your hair & scalp from being stripped from its natural oils (sebum) when using shampoos which can sometimes be harsh on your coils & curls. Without it, your hair could become extremely dry which could lead to breakage, tangles and knots. Using a moisturizing oil is best for pre-pooing due to its ability to penetrate through the shaft whilst sealing oils might be too heavy and may affect your hair from reaping the full benefits of the treatment.

LOC vs LCO Method :

When using the LOC method, you’ll want to opt for a moisturizing oil as opposed to a sealing oil as you still need to apply your cream afterwards. Sealing oils are good at keeping moisture out. And if you’re applying your cream last – you’ll be locking out all the moisture and hydration benefits.

With the LCO method, you’re applying the oil last after you’ve applied the liquid and cream so you’ll be using a sealing oil on this occasion. The oil acts like a sealant for the liquid and cream helping you keep your hair moisturized for longer. Want to learn more about LOC vs LCO? Click here

Braid Outs & Twist Outs :

When doing braid outs and twists out, you’ve probably used a leave-in conditioner, curl cream or pudding and/or mousse. All these products have moisturizing and hydration ingredients that help your hair become soft and easy to style. Whilst giving it a nice bounce afterwards. In this case, you want to use a sealing oil to lock in the moisture helping the style last longer. You can always do a refresh in between but it’s likely you’ll be rocking the style for at least 5 days and the sealing oil acts as a film to lock in the moisture for that duration.

Summary re; Moisturizing vs Sealing Oils

Moisturizing oils penetrate deep into your hair and get right inside your hair shaft. It works well with water based products due to its penetrating effects and helps nourish and hydrate your hair from the inside out. Always opt for these oils when doing hair treatments that are focussed on hydrating your hair.

Sealing oils are layered on top of your hair after you’ve finished moisturizing and hydrating your hair. The oil acts as a sealant to lock in all the moisture you’ve worked so hard to get into your hair strands. It’s important to note that it also locks out any new moisture from getting into your hair strands. Which is why you should always use it as a last step in your moisture routine.

FAQ’s re; Moisturizing vs Sealing Oils

1: How often should you moisturize and seal?

Depending on the quality of the products you’re using, you should be moisturizing your hair every 3 – 7 days. Everyone’s hair is different and some may be drier than others so you’ll need a bit of trial and error to figure out if it should be slightly less or more. In between washes, you can always spritz your hair with water and follow up with your moisturizer. Just remember that sealing oils act as a film and will stop any new moisture from entering the hair shaft. So only moisturize and seal when you need to as opposed to daily to stop any build up of product sitting on your hair.

2: Can you over moisturize your hair? AND What does moisture overload look like?

The simple answer is YES – you can definitely over moisturize your hair. Having a balance of moisture and protein is vital for healthy hair. You won’t need to use protein as often but it’s good to incorporate it into your routine every 1 to 2 months depending on your hair needs. You’ll know if you’re experiencing moisture overload because your hair will feel limp, mushy and overly soft. You can also tell from your curl pattern as it’ll struggle to hold shape and lack definition. A quick fix is doing a protein treatment or a clay mask which will help detoxify your hair and support the restructure of the cuticles. Remember, protein strengthens your hair and gives it structure. Whilst moisture is equally as important to minimize dryness and breakage. Having the right moisture and protein balance will help your hair thrive.

3: Is Argan Oil a moisturizing or sealing oil?

Argan oil has both moisturizing and sealing benefits. It’s known for penetrating, coating and lubricating your hair whilst protecting it from harsh chemicals. Argan oil is rich in vitamins such as vitamin A, C and E but also loaded in antioxidants and fatty acids. It’s more expensive than other oils bearing in mind its richness but great for scalp and hair care. It basically offers you the best of both worlds in comparison to other oils.

4: Is shea butter moisturizer or sealant?

Shea butter helps seals in moisture and softens the hair. It’s a sealant and not a moisturizer but some people confuse it as a moisturizer because it makes your hair feel more hydrated when applied giving you the illusion of moisture. Shea butter contains butter which seals water based products into the hair but doesn’t hydrate it. It’s filled with fatty acids which helps enhance hydration by reducing evaporation. Shea butter can be found in many products such as deep conditioners, hair creams and treatments. Although it’s a sealant, it also has hydrating benefits due to its water binding properties. So if you do decide to use it as a moisturizer, it’s best to mix it with other ingredients to get the best out of it.

Final Thoughts

We hope this clarifies everything you need to know re; moisturizing vs sealing oils. Oils are a great way of achieving moisture retention in between hair treatments, daily hair maintenance and styling. They’re designed to add moisture and shine to your hair and scalp whilst helping you lock that moisture in for long periods of time. The key is to use the right oils! It’s easy to remember what oil does what via the name i.e. Moisturizing = moisture and Sealing = sealant. Just do some research on oils that fall into the two categories before picking them. We’ve named the most popular ones in the article but feel free to experiment with other oils and if you like you can mix essential oils together to create your own mix.

SOURCES
1. Black women’s hair: the main scalp dermatoses and aesthetic practices in women of African ethnicity. Tanus A, Oliveira CCC, Villarreal DJV, Sanchez FAV, Dias MFRG. An Bras Dermatol. 2015;90(4):450-67.
  https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4560533/ ↩︎
October 14, 2023
LOC vs LCO Method! Which one should you choose?
Getting moisture into your hair strands is a key component for maintaining healthy natural hair. It’s no surprise Type 4 Hair is prone to dryness and you’ll need to adopt moisture retention techniques into your natural hair regimen. You’ll also need to pay close attention to the ends of your hair which is likely to be dull, brittle and break easily due to wear and tear. The LOC & LCO methods are a way of getting that much needed moisture back into your hair strands whilst locking it in.

You’ve probably heard of the LOC or LCO method at some point during your natural hair journey but may not be 100% sure on what method is best for you. Both methods utilise the same products which can cause some confusion. The main difference between the two methods is the layering and application process of your hair products.

So which one is better for your hair? In this article we’ll cover everything you need to know re; the LOC VS LCO method to help you decide what method to incorporate into your hair regimen. The good news is you can use either method but one method might favour your hair more depending on your hair density, type and porosity.

What is the LOC & LCO Method?

LOC stands for liquid first, oil second and cream last. Whilst LCO stands for liquid first, cream second and oil last. Both methods use the same components starting with liquid. But the main difference is the second and third step swap places. The methods are known for hydrating your hair whilst ensuring the moisture has fully penetrated through to your hair shaft by sealing it with a cream and oil.

Let’s delve into the definitions in a bit more detail to give you a better understanding of how they work together.

LIQUID

This is the first step in the LCO & LCO method. You can use a liquid or leave-in conditioner but make sure the product you choose is water based. Reason being, is you want your hair to be fully hydrated and ensure an adequate amount of moisture has entered into the strands before following up with the next steps. Moisture is every naturals friend and without it your hair will become dry and brittle leading to excessive breakage. If you’re struggling to find a liquid based leave in conditioner then feel free to just use water! Water is an easy way to hydrate your hair and acts as a moisturising agent.

OIL

This is the second step in the LOC method & third step in the LCO method. The oil acts as a sealing agent to lock the moisture into your hair strands and prevent it from leaving. In simple terms, it helps keep your hair moisturised for longer. Depending on your hair porosity – you’ll need to be careful with what oils you use as some can be heavier than others. We’ll cover this in a bit more detail in the section below to help you decide what type of oils to use.

CREAM

This is the third step in the LOC method and second step in the LCO method. In most cases the cream is a water based product which also contains oils and butters. Although the cream can act as a sealing agent due to the oils & butters in the mixture. It also has hydrating benefits which adds that extra nourishment to your strands. It tends to be thicker and denser in consistency in comparison to other products you’ll be using to hydrate your strands.

How Hair Porosity Can Impact the Method you Choose?

Both the LOC and LCO method are great ways of increasing moisture retention. Although, both have similarities – it’s best to choose a method that aligns to your hair needs and goals to reap the full benefits. Luckily, either method works well with Type 4 hair regardless of if you’re a Type 4A, B OR C Naturalista. But hair porosity has a significant part to play when choosing a method to adopt into your hair regimen.

Porosity is an indicator of how easily moisture can penetrate through your hair shaft. You’ll either have high, normal or low hair porosity. As a rule of thumb, the LOC method is typically best for high to medium porosity hair whilst the LCO method is best for low to medium porosity hair. Here’s WHY?

HIGH POROSITY

High porosity hair tends to have difficulty retaining moisture due its loose cuticles. This makes it easy for moisture to penetrate through the hair shaft but also makes it very easy for moisture to leave. This makes it difficult and challenging for Naturals with high porosity hair to retain moisture. Using the LOC method will help moisture stay in your hair shaft for longer. The oil acts as a sealant to keep the moisture from evaporating whilst the cream seals and locks in the moisture for added protection.

LOW POROSITY

Low porosity hair on the other hand has difficulty absorbing moisture due to its tight cuticles. Water tends to sit on the hair strands as opposed to penetrating through the hair shaft. The good thing is that once your hair is fully hydrated – the moisture tends to stay in and doesn’t easily evaporate. The cream helps add that extra hydration and moisture into the shafts whilst the oil acts as a sealant to lock it all in.

MEDIUM POROSITY

Medium porosity hair is a mix of both worlds as its cuticles are looser than low porosity but tighter than high porosity. This makes it easy for moisture to penetrate through the hair shaft but also means it stays in for a good period of time. With normal porosity – you can use either the LOC or LCO method depending on your preference.

5 TIPs for getting the optimum moisture into your Hair Shaft
1. Start off with freshly washed hair using a moisturising shampoo. If you notice you have product build up then use a clarifying shampoo to ensure your hair is fully clean
2. Follow up with a deep conditioning treatment. Using heat will help the product penetrate through your hair strands so you can reap the full benefits of the treatment.
3. Detangle your hair thoroughly to minimise any tangles or knots
4. Follow up with the LCO or LOC method – ensure your hair is damp prior to layering products
5. Sleep with a silk or satin bonnet or pillowcase. Silk is known for helping keep moisture in compared to cotton which can be drying.
Understanding Oils

With so many oils on the market, you’re probably wondering what oil is best to pick. High and Low porosity hair have different needs which means you have to be selective with what oil you choose to use. As high porosity hair loses moisture easily, you’ll need to pick a heavier oil to help seal in the moisture. Low porosity hair on the other has a harder time penetrating products so its best to use a lightweight oil to minimise build up.

Examples of heavy oils : Olive oil, Castor oil, Coconut oil

Example of lightweight oils : Argan oil, Avocado oil, Jojoba oil

Source : GIPHY

FAQ’s re; LOC & LCO Method

1: Can I do the LOC OR LCO method everyday?

It’s not advised to use the LOC or LCO method daily to minimise product build up. The purpose of the LOC and LCO method is to retain moisture in your hair strands which takes away the burden of doing it daily. Ideally, you want to be doing this method on wash days when your hair is thoroughly cleansed. It’s likely you’ll need to refresh your hair in between wash days to keep your hair moisturised. If this is the case then you can co-wash your hair or spritz your hair with water and follow through with the method of choice.

If you do opt for doing the method daily, you’ll need to use lightweight products and pay attention to build up. You may need to wash your hair more regularly i.e. every week as opposed to bi-weekly and incorporate a clarifying shampoo into your routine at least once a month.

2: How often should I do the LOC OR LCO method?

Ideally, you want to be doing this method on wash days and then follow up with a refresh every 4 – 7 days. Now this will vary depending on your hair needs and styling preferences. For instance, if you’re rocking a wash n go – it’s likely you’ll need to refresh your hair more often as your hair is out compared to if you’re rocking a bun and your hair is tucked away.

If you’re new to the method then you might want to start doing it once a week and do a refresh mid-week. From there, you can measure how your hair responds and decide if you need to do it more or less regularly.

3: How long does the LOC OR LCO method last?

It lasts anything from 3 to 7 days.

4: Do you put curl cream or leave in conditioner first?

Always apply your leave in conditioner first. Leave-in conditioners are designed to add moisture back into your hair shaft after washing. It also strengthens and protects your hair to make daily styling easier. Curl creams on the other hand enhances your curl pattern to define your curls, smooth away frizziness and give your hair that extra shine. Just be mindful with how much product you apply daily to minimise product build up. Overuse of product can cause your hair to become lacklustre and brittle leading to breakage.

Final Thoughts

Regardless of what method you choose. All steps work hand in hand for moisture retention and keeping your hair hydrated for longer. We hope whatever method you choose, it helps with your hair goals of achieving healthy kinks, coils and curls. Pick one that works for you and if you feel you’re not getting the best results try the other method. This will help you identify if the LOC or LCO method works best. Another key factor to be aware of is being mindful of what products you choose to incorporate. Read the ingredients of the products to ensure they have hydrating benefits to keep your hair from drying out.

Have you tried the LOC or LCO method? Which one do your prefer and why?
October 7, 2023
How to relieve tight braids and treat braid bumps?
Braids are many Naturalista’s go-to protective hairstyle. They’re are practical and you can literally wear them for every occasion including weddings, birthdays, holidays and everyday wear etc. With so many braid types on the market i.e. knotless, box braids, french curl braids etc and countless styling options. It’s no surprise they’re a favourite in the natural hair community. However, if not done correctly and braided too tightly to your scalp then you can experience braid bumps which are super uncomfortable but also damaging to your natural hair.

Have you ever experience any of the following…
- Got your braids done and struggled to get them up in a ponytail because of the tightness?
- Felt the braids pulling on your edges and hairline?
- Experienced headaches during the first couple of days of getting your braids done?
- Struggled to sleep on your braids because it hurts?
All the above are all signs of your braids being too tight. And even though braids should be attached closely to your scalp – it shouldn’t cause you discomfort. A protective style is meant to protect your hair not cause it further strain or damage. We’ll be covering everything you need to know about the causes of braid bumps, how to treat them plus tips on how to care for your scalp whilst wearing braids.

Why do I get braid bumps when my hair is braided?

The main cause of braid bumps are because your braids are too tight. Braiding your hair tightly causes tension to your hair follicles and scalp leading to inflammation. You’ll start to see little red or white bumps on your scalp which are itchy and irritable, specifically around your hairline or the nape of your hair.

These bumps are caused by damage to your hair follicles and are typically known as tension bumps or scalp folliculitis. Once damaged, your scalp will become vulnerable to a fungal or bacterial infection. This might be frightening to some but the good news is these bumps aren’t contagious. But it’s important to treat them straight away to minimise it from spreading to other areas of your scalp.

Although, tight braids are the main cause. You may experience braid bumps from other factors such as
- Having a sensitive scalp
- Irritation from chemicals from the braiding hair
- Styling your hair too tightly
- Product build up
- Your scalp is prone to dandruff
How to treat and get rid of braid bumps?

It’s inevitable that you’ll experience braid bumps whilst wearing braids. Especially if braids are a regular part of your protective styling routine. The key is to treat them as soon as they appear to stop them from getting worse. Here are 5 things you can do to treat and get rid of braid bumps straight away.

1. Release the tension along your hairline.

It’s likely you’re experiencing the most tension around your hairline. Hairstylists tend to grip that part of your hair tightly due to the shortness of length and to stop the braids from falling out. If you’re confident with braiding your own hair then it’s best to take them out and re-do them. If you’re not confident then there’s no harm going back to your stylist and getting them to re-do it. To minimise tension in the future, speak up at your hair appointment and let your stylist know you experience bumps and don’t want the braids too tight. If they don’t listen then it’s worth trying another stylist who actually cares about your hair health as opposed to just the end look.

2. Avoid putting your braids in a high ponytail or bun

One of the reasons why braids are so appealing is because you can style them in many ways. Unfortunately, some of our favourite styles can lead to tension on the hairline eventually leading to bumps. You want to avoid putting your hair in a high tight ponytail or bun. Although the style looks great it could be adding more damage to your hair follicles, especially if you constantly have it up. Braids are heavier compared to your natural hair, having it up all the time pulls and tugs on your scalp leading to damage. Let your scalp breathe and have them down. If you really want to have it up then tie it loosely to minimise tension. You can always opt for human braiding hair which is lighter in comparison to synthetic but does come at a cost.

3. Massage the area with a lightweight oil.

Scalp massages will provide immediate pain relief and increase the blood circulation in the area. Massages are known to be soothing and good for alleviating tension. The key is to use a lightweight oil that will minimise build up but is also moisturising. Oils such as tea tree, peppermint and rosemary are known for aiding inflammation. They also have antiseptic or antimicrobial properties which can be used to treat the bumps and prevent them from getting worse.

4. Try an antibacterial ointment

You can purchase over the counter ointments which have been specifically created to treat folliculitis. These ointments have antibiotics which will treat bacteria and fungus quickly. Be sure to follow the instructions to ensure correct use and if you’re not sure on what product to purchase then speak to a pharmacist who will help diagnose the problem and find the best solution for you.

5. Loosen braids

Loosening the braids is a great way of reducing the tension if you don’t want to completely remove the braids. You can do this by running the braids under warm water or using a steamer. This will open up the pores of your scalp whilst helping the braids to loosen. If you’re worried about your braids becoming frizzy, apply a mousse with a strong hold to keep them intact.

If all the above fail then it’s best to take the braids out! Although this is annoying, your hair health and scalp is more important. It’ll be frustrating in the short-term but in the long run you’ll be happy. A protective style is meant to aid hair retention and not damage it.

7 Tips for caring for your scalp whilst wearing braids to minimise braid bumps

It’s easy to neglect your hair routine whilst wearing protective styles. You won’t need to follow all the steps in your normal routine but it’s good to create one dependant on your hairstyle. Here are some tips to help you care for your scalp and hair whilst wearing braids.

1. Wash your braiding hair

Washing your braiding hair is a good way of getting rid of the chemicals that may be in the extensions prior to installation. Extensions are made in factories across the world and can be hard to trace back to its country of origin and know exactly how the hair was prepared. A great way to clarify your braids is by doing an apple cider vinegar rinse. Dilute 1 cup of apple cider vinegar with 3 parts of warm or hot water and apply onto the braiding hair for at least 20 mins. Once 20 mins is up, rinse out thoroughly and let it air dry. If you’re someone who has a sensitive scalp then it’s even more important to follow this step.

2. Don’t neglect your cleansing and moisturising routine

Although your natural hair is braided up and protected, you should still cleanse and moisturise your hair. It might feel like a time consuming exercise but the goal is to keep your scalp and hair healthy whilst wearing braids to prevent damage when it’s time to remove them. Here are some steps to follow;
- Step 1 – Dilute shampoo with water into a spray bottle or a bottle with a nozzle. Spray onto your scalp and use your fingers to massage the product through. Make sure you’re focussing on your scalp to remove any product build up.
- Step 2 – Rinse shampoo out and apply conditioner. When rinsing, ensure all product used has been rinsed out thoroughly
- Step 3 – Towel dry braids and air dry. You can always sit under a hooded dryer or blow dryer with a hooded bonnet attachment to make sure the roots dry and air dry the rest. The key here is to make sure braids are completely dry so it doesn’t have a mouldy damp smell.
- Step 4 – Follow up with a leave in conditioner or moisturiser and seal with an oil
- Step 5 – Apply a mousse with strong hold if your worried about frizz
If you’re not a fan of mixing shampoos and want to use a product which is easy to apply to your scalp with minimal mess. Then try some of our fav products which are known for removing product build up whilst keeping your scalp fresh and clean!
The tutorial below shows you how to your hair in braids whilst minimising frizz.

3. Keep an eye out for product build up

You’re likely to have more build up than usual at the roots of your braids and edges. You’re probably using more edge control than usual and oiling your scalp regularly. If you notice build up and it’s not quite time for wash day. You can always cleanse the areas you’re experiencing build up to prevent it from getting worse. Get some cotton wool pads and dip it in warm or hot water, then rub it on your scalp to remove excess dirt and oil. You can always add a couple drops of shampoo into the water but make sure you follow up with another cotton pad with warm water to remove the shampoo from your scalp. Eliminating it straight away will prevent it from getting trapped under the roots of your hair and entwined with the braids.

4. Don’t wear your braids for too long

Aim to keep your hair in braids for no longer than 8 – 10 weeks. If you decide to opt for slightly longer, make sure you’re keeping up with your hair maintenance routine. As your natural hair grows, your braids will naturally loosen and if you’re not careful you can end up pulling or tugging on your hair when styling which could lead to breakage.

5. Avoid scratching your scalp

If you wear braids regularly then you’ll experience itchiness from time to time. You might have the urge to scratch your scalp but this could lead to further irritation. It’s best to massage the area with an oil or eliminate the cause of the itchiness by washing your hair. There isn’t one factor alone that causes itchiness but the main reasons are product build up, trapped dead skin cells and dry scalp.

6. Keep an eye out for braids on around your hairline

The braids around your hairline tend to have the most tension causing bumps and irritation. It’s important to keep a close eye on this area so it doesn’t cause any damage. Braids around the hairline are prone to breakage and If you’re not careful could lead to traction alopecia. Re-do the braids If your braids are starting to feel uncomfortable or causing irritation due to tightness or being in for too long.

7. Don’t forget your night time routine

Don’t neglect your night time routine because you’re wearing braids. Sleeping with a satin or silk bonnet will help your braids stay fresher for longer but also help your hair strands to retain moisture. Watch the tutorial below for 2 ways to sleep with your braids.

FAQ’s re: Caring for Braids

1: What not to do when you take out your braids?

When taking out your braids, PATIENCE is key! Don’t be heavy handed with the process and take your time to loosen them. Don’t rip the braids out of your hair and if you experience any tangles or knots. You can use a detangler or conditioner with a lot of slip to help loosen them. Prior to washing your hair, you want to ensure your hair is fully detangled so it doesn’t loc up. Finger detangle first and then follow up with a wide tooth comb or flexi brush. After washing, do a deep conditioning treatment to get moisture and nutrients back into your hair strands.

2: Why am I losing hair after taking out my braids?

Your hair sheds between 50 – 100 hairs per day. As your hair is in braids during a duration of 8 weeks or more, all your shed hair is trapped in your braids. So naturally you’ll experience more hair loss because the shed hairs had no wear to go. In extreme cases, you are losing hair because of breakage from not properly caring for your braids whilst wearing them.

3: How long should I keep my braids in?

The recommendation is 8 weeks. If you want to keep them in for slightly longer then don’t go past 10 – 12 weeks. You should never braid your hair back to back and have a break in between to give your natural hair time to breathe and recover.

4: Will my hair grow back after tight braids?

Yes – your hair will grow back with proper care. You’ll need to utilise a hair growth oil to aid hair growth and massage your scalp regularly to increase blood circulation. Be careful not to put strain on your hair follicles when trying to grow it back as your hair is fragile. Opt for protective styles that need minimal maintenance and keep up with your natural hair routine.

NOTE – If you have traction alopecia as a result of constantly getting tight braids then it’s unlikely your hair will not grow back.

Final Thoughts

If you experience braid bumps there’s no need to panic. There are a variety of ways to treat and get rid of them without them causing further damage to your hair. Prevention is better than cure in these scenario’s so find a stylist who cares about your scalp and hair health. Don’t be afraid to speak up at appointments if they feel too tight. There’s no harm trying a new stylist, ask family and friends for recommendations if you feel you’re not being listened too. Make you have a maintenance routine whilst wearing your braids and don’t forget to cleanse your scalp regularly to minimise build up.

How do you care for your braids? And what additional tips do you have?

Read our latest post on how braids contribute to hair growth and length retention.
September 11, 2023
Low Porosity Tips to Boost Your Natural Hair Routine
When it comes to maintaining your natural hair, it’s important to identify what your hair needs to care for it in the right way. Identifying and understanding your hair porosity is equally as important as knowing your hair type. Regardless of if you’re Type 3 or 4 Naturalista – we all have different porosity types which will impact the products we choose to use and customise our natural hair routine to achieve our hair goals. Knowing your hair porosity (low, medium or high) and its characteristics will help you boost your natural hair regimen and ensure your hair is being treated with the right level of care.

Have you ever been in a situation where you’ve been trying viral hair products but not necessarily seeing the same results as everyone else? OR Does your hair feel like a product just sits on top of it as opposed to being absorbed through the hair strands? OR Do you find that regardless of what products you use your hair always seems dry? Well, you’re not alone! Every Naturalista has encountered this at some point during their hair care journey and these problems arise based on your hairs ability to absorb and hold onto moisture.

What is Low Porosity hair?

Porosity is an indicator of how easily moisture can penetrate through your hair shaft. It’s mainly determined by genetics but other factors such as the use of heat and chemicals have a part to play. If you have low porosity hair, it means your hair is lacking moisture in comparison to medium and high porosity hair types. This is due to low porosity having a harder time absorbing and retaining moisture.

Naturals with low porosity hair have tightly aligned hair cuticles which create a barrier for moisture to enter and penetrate through the strands. Their hair is also water resistant which can make it difficult to absorb moisture, water and hair products.

Here are 5 characteristics that will help you identify if you have low porosity hair;
- It takes longer for your hair to get completely wet when saturated with water
- Heat is required for moisture to penetrate through
- You have a high tendency for product build up
- Products tend to sit on top of the hair strands
- It takes longer to dry
How to Know if you have Low Porosity Hair?

It’s best to do a test to figure out your hair porosity. The process is pretty simple to follow and all you’ll need is a glass of water and a strand of hair. It’s best to do this test on freshly cleansed hair. Do not do this test on dirty hair as your results will not be accurate.

Simply take a clean, product-free strand of loose hair and put it in a glass of water. If the hair floats to the top then it’s low porosity, if it sinks slowly or settles in the middle it is medium/normal porosity, and if it sinks straight to the bottom then it is high porosity. See diagram below;

The results of the test will give you your answer. It’s also worth reviewing the characteristics we mentioned earlier to see if you relate. It’s likely you’ve been aware of the characteristics but didn’t know you had low porosity hair.

How to Care for Low Porosity? Plus Steps to Implement into your Natural Hair routine

Caring for low porosity natural hair can be frustrating at times. Especially because it repels water and natural hair requires hydration and moisture to thrive. In fact, it’s even more important to keep low porosity hair hydrated in comparison to other porosity types. But don’t panic…the good news is, there are several ways you can get moisture to penetrate through your hair strands. You’ll just have to work a little harder to get your hair fully hydrated by incorporating different methods/techniques.

We’ll give you a run down on the basics you’ll need to incorporate into your natural hair routine to ensure your low porosity hair is getting the moisture it needs. Note – even though you have the same porosity as other naturals, your hair might react differently so take your time to find the right routine and figure out what works best for you.

How often should you cleanse/wash low porosity hair?

Low porosity hair is prone to build up as products tend to sit on top of the hair rather than penetrate through the strands. As a result, you’ll need to clarify your hair regularly. The recommendation is typically every 1 – 2 weeks and ensure your hair is thoroughly clean by doing at least 2 rounds of shampooing. There will be weeks where you’ll have more buildup in between wash days depending on your styling options. So pay attention to signs of build up (i.e. residue, dry or itchy scalp, flakiness or dullness) once it appears and get rid of it.

How do you moisturise low porosity hair?

As low porosity struggles to take in moisture. You need to pay close attention to the ingredients in your products. Unfortunately, just piling on hair products won’t keep your hair moisturised. Instead, it’ll lead to product build up which is what you want to avoid. Use lightweight products without a lot of oils in order for the moisture to penetrate through the hair shaft. Products with film-forming humectants help your hair retain water and then follow through with a light oil to seal in the moisture.

How to grow low porosity hair?

Natural hair grows up to 6 inches per year, in some cases it can be less or more. Hair growth is down to a variety of factors such genetics, lifestyle, hair manipulation from styling, supplements etc. The key to hair growth is having a healthy scalp so step 1 is clarify your hair. Make your cleansing your hair regularly to ensure your hair follicles aren’t clogged up by oils and excess product which will keep your scalp in a healthy state. Step 2 is to retain as much hair growth as possible. There are various ways to retain length such as protective styling, keeping your hair hydrated and getting regular trims. Utilising these techniques will help moisture get into the hair strands and will reduce the risk of dry and brittle hair which leads to breakage.

To grow low porosity hair, you’ll need to customise your hair routine to fit your hair care needs. The focus should be clarifying, moisturising, using the right products that contain humectants and minimise the use of heavy oils. Note; other factors will have a part to play such as eating habits, lifestyle etc but if you can focus on finding the right routine then you should be fine. One way to stay on top of your progress is by tracking and documenting your natural hair journey so you know where to make changes and improvements.

9 Low Porosity Haircare Tips to incorporate into your Natural Hair Routine

Now you understand what hair porosity is and how cleansing and getting hydration into the strands can help you maintain healthy hair. Here are some things you’ll want to incorporate into your natural hair routine to boost your regimen and ensure your low porosity hair is properly cared for. You don’t have to do them all but suggest trying a couple and figure out what works best for you.

1. Use products with the right ingredients

It’s important to use ingredients that will penetrate through your hair shafts as opposed to drying it out further. You should always check the ingredients in all your products especially shampoos, conditioners and moisturisers. Stay away from anything that contains sulphates and silicones. Instead, use hair products that contain film-forming humectants that help retain water in your hair. These humectants have moisturising ingredients that create a clear, flexible film over your strands to help resist dehydration.

Examples of film-forming humectants:
- Marshmallow root
- Flaxseed gel
- Aloe vera
- Slippery Elm
- Pathenol
- Hydroxyproplytrimonium honey
- nettle leaf tea or nettle extract
2. Use the correct oils to seal in moisture

Using oils is an effective way to seal moisture into your cuticles. However, there are certain oils that won’t work for low porosity hair. For example, coconut oil is raved about in the natural hair community but due to the oil being quite heavy – it doesn’t actually add much benefit to low porosity naturals and just sits on top of the hair strands. The best oils for low porosity hair are lightweight oils. They are known for penetrating through your roots and hair shafts increasing the chances of your hair absorbing it. You might also want to stay away from heavy butters and try an avocado, mango or murumuru butter which is light in texture and has sealing properties.

Examples of lightweight oils: Jojoba oil, Avocado oil, Grapesed oil, Sweet almond oil, Argan oil and Sunflower oil.

TIP – Always use oils as the last step! You want to apply it after you moisturise your hair and use it to seal the moisture into your hair strands. If you apply oil onto your strands prior to moisturising then you’ll be locking out moisture as opposed to getting it into the hair shaft.

3. Always use heat when deep conditioning

Heat is a great way to open up your hair’s cuticle and works extremely well for low porosity hair. For your hair to reap the full benefits of your deep conditioner – you need to open up the cuticles. The cuticles will naturally open when you clarify your hair with warm water but it’s important not to wait for your hair to dry before applying your deep conditioner. Apply it straight away so you to get the benefits of the moisturising ingredients. It’s best to leave the treatment on your hair for at least 30 mins and apply a shower cap to keep the product from drying out. Sit under a hooded dryer or heat cap to keep your cuticles open.

You should aim to use a deep conditioning treatment at least twice a month. It might sound like a laborious process but trust me it’s worth it! You’ll start to see improvements in your hair’s health and it’s ability to retain moisture. Learn more about the benefits of deep conditioning here.

4. Utilise steam

Steam is another method of opening up your hair cuticles and offers similar benefits to using heat and warm water. The difference with steam is it works slightly quicker. This is because the water molecules are in vapour form which move quicker than liquid molecules to penetrate your hair. There are hand hair steamers you can purchase and use in between washes to open up your hair cuticles when moisturising your hair. Alternatively, you can use the steam from a hot shower if you don’t want to invest in a steamer. Remember, steam alone can’t hydrate your hair so use it as a step prior to moisturising your hair.

5. Always apply products to damp hair

This is a pretty simple step, you don’t need to completely saturate your hair. But you can use a spray bottle to spritz your hair prior to applying your products to help the ingredients penetrate through your hair strands. Water is every Naturalista’s friend! Although low porosity hair has a harder time absorbing it – it doesn’t mean you should eliminate it completely. TIP – use warm water to open up your hair cuticles.

6. Try a pre-poo treatment

Pre-pooing is a way of prepping your hair prior to cleansing. There are a variety of ways you can pre-poo your hair using products such as masks, oils, scrubs and deep conditioning treatments. Shampoo is known for stripping your hair of its natural oils and moisture. Pre-pooing is a way of retaining that moisture. This is extremely useful for low porosity hair as it minimises and prevents the stripping of your hair from the shampoo.

7. Don’t skip trims

Trims are vital for any hair type but key for low porosity hair it’s essential due to your hair being drier and brittle in texture.. This leads to split ends travelling up the hair shaft quickly eventually leading to breakage. Ideally, you want to trim your hair every 8 weeks but if you prefer to stretch your trim you can opt for every 12 weeks. The key is to maintain healthy hair and have a consistent routine.

8. Sleep with a silk pillowcase

Have you ever gone to bed with your scarf or bonnet and found it on the floor or somewhere on your bed when you wake up? I’m sure we’ve all had this experience at some point which is why sleeping with a silk pillowcase provides you with that extra protection. Cotton pillowcases are known for drying out hair whilst silk pillowcases help keep moisture in your coils/curls for longer. You can opt for satin pillowcases too, they tend to be significantly cheaper than silk but it won’t retain moisture as well as silk. Aside from the benefits for your hair, you’ll notice a difference on your face. So throw that cotton pillowcase away and upgrade to a smoother silkier option that has better benefits for you.

9. Treat and prevent build up

Build up is something low porosity naturals battle with a lot. Unfortunately, the hair strands find it difficult to absorb moisture which leads to products sitting on top of your strands. One way you can curb build up in low porosity hair is by using a clarifying shampoo – incorporate it into your natural hair routine and start of with once a month to stay on top of it. If you’re interested in a natural hair remedy then opt for a apple cider vinegar rinse. All you need to do is dilute 1 spoon of vinegar with a cup of water and spritz on your hair after shampooing. Make sure you get the whole length of your hair and scalp. Then follow up with a conditioner or deep conditioning treatment to get that moisture back into your hair strands.

FAQ’s re: Low Porosity Natural Hair Routine

1: How do you treat low porosity hair?

We’ve covered the majority of the elements of how to treat low porosity hair above but a quick takeaway is to stay away from heavy products which will lead to build up. Stick to lightweight products that have the right moisturising benefits. You can always utilise treatments such as pre-poos and deep conditioners to get that extra moisture and hydration into your hair strands. Try to use heat and/or steam when using these treatments to open up the hair cuticle to ensure the ingredients get right through to the core of the strands.

2: What ingredients should I avoid for low porosity hair?

There are 2 main ingredients that are a no-go for low porosity hair! Silicones and Sulphates. Silicone makes your hair appear shiny after use which is why many people use it but it doesn’t actually keep your hair moisturised. Constant use of silicones can weaken the hair causing damage. Sulphates strip the hair of natural moisture which is a big no no for women with low porosity hair. The overuse of sulphates for low porosity naturals leads to excessive dryness and frizz. There are loads of sulphate free shampoos on the market so you’ll be able to find something that works for you.

3: Which oil is best for low porosity hair?

You want to opt for lightweight oils as opposed to heavy ones to minimise build up and clogging up your scalp. Luckily, there are many options on the market. Here are some of our favourite oils for low porosity hair;
- Jojoba Oil
- Sweet Almond Oil
- Grapeseed Oil
- Baobab Oil
- Argan Oil
- Pomegranate Oil
- Avocado Oil
4: Does low porosity hair need protein?

In general, natural hair needs the right balance of protein and moisture to thrive. The difference with low porosity hair is it doesnt need as much protein compared to other porosity types. The benefit of protein is it adds strength to your hair, it helps with elasticity and keeps your hair strong. But too much protein can leave your hair dry and brittle. As a low porosity natural, you may need to monitor how your hair reacts to protein treatments to decide how often you incorporate it into your routine. If you’re experiencing significant breakage or notice a drop in elasticity then it might be time to get a protein treatment.

Final Thoughts

We hope you got everything you need to boost your low porosity natural hair routine. Despite the challenges low porosity naturals face of retaining and absorbing moisture. There are a variety of ways you can get moisture into your hair strands. One of the things you’ll have to change straight away is reading the ingredients on products before purchasing them. Hair brands are very good at marketing products for hair growth and moisture but when you read the labels you’ll find harmful ingredients that don’t add any benefit. Get into the habit of doing your research so it doesn’t have any detrimental impact on your hair’s health.

Do you have low porosity hair? What tips have you tried or recommend for other Naturalistas?
August 24, 2023