Category: Natural Hairstyles

Natural Hairstyle inspiration and tips for all occasions, these hairstyles will cater to all your haircare needs. We’ll cover everything from protective styling, updo’s, hair extensions, braids and twists etc. You’ll also learn about maintenance tips, pros/cons of each style, product recommendations and tricks to help you achieve a seamless look.

  • Protective Hairstyle 101: Are They Really Protecting Your Hair?

    Protective Hairstyle 101: Are They Really Protecting Your Hair?

    Protective hairstyles are a cornerstone of the natural hair community. They offer the flexibility to experiment with different looks while keeping your kinks, curls and coils intact. However, despite the popularity of styles like braids, twists, and cornrows, many women still experience breakage and hair loss when wearing these styles.

    Are you dealing with breakage or excessive shedding with protective styles? Do you notice significant hair loss and pulling along your hairline? Or perhaps you constantly wear protective hairstyles but haven’t seen any progress in your hair growth journey. 

    If you’re facing these problems, it’s time to reconsider: “Is your protective hairstyle really protecting your hair or harming it?” While these styles are beloved in the natural hair community, many women still encounter issues. So what’s going wrong? Why are so many women having problems despite the intended benefits?

    In this post, we’ll delve into the benefits and drawbacks of protective hairstyles, uncover the reasons behind these issues, and offer tips to ensure your hair is truly protected.

    Benefits of wearing Protective Hairstyles

    The term protective hairstyle clearly explains the benefit of wearing these styles. Their purpose is to protect your natural hair, keeping it healthy and help you retain length. Protecting your hair  from any potential damage caused by daily styling, heat, tangling and breakage. Many women in the natural hair community swear by the improvements they’ve seen while rocking these styles. And although, some women haven’t had the best experience. Protective hairstyles can support you maintain healthy hair if done correctly. 

    Here are 5 top benefits of rocking these styles.

    1. Minimising risk of damage to your hair 

    As your hair is tucked away, it reduces the risk of over manipulation that comes with daily styling. The type 4 curl pattern is fragile and can snag easily when combing, detangling or styling your hair. The fact you’ll be doing this less frequently while wearing protective hairstyles helps eradicate this and minimises breakage. Plus, you won’t be using styling tools such as heat as regularly when wearing these styles.

    2. Supports with length retention 

    In order to reach your length retention goals. It’s best to leave your hair alone! I know it sounds cliche but the less time your hands are spent styling or parting your hair the better it is for you to hold onto that length you worked so hard on achieving. 

    3. Low Maintenance

    You’ll be able to wake up and go! Protective hairstyles require minimal effort when styling your hair daily. They’re easy to maintain and typically last 6 – 8 weeks. With the right  maintenance you can stretch them for up to 12 weeks. Saving time in the morning when getting ready. This is a big PRO for many Naturalistas! 

    4. Offers Flexibility of styling 

    Naturalistas are blessed with versatility of styling options bearing in mind you can wear your hair straight, coily/curly or in it’s shrunken state. A protective hairstyle will increase your ability to wear these styles without causing damage to your hair. The fact you’re not constantly altering your coil pattern keeps the hair strands strong and healthy. 

    5. Helps you get through that awkward length stage 

    If you’re newly natural going through that awkward TWA stage or not happy with your current length. Wearing a protective hairstyle will help you get through that phase.

    Drawbacks of Protective Hairstyles

    Although protective styles have many benefits – it also comes with its cons. Here are 4 main drawbacks of wearing a protective hairstyle.

    1. Wearing them constantly could lead to excess shedding

    Have you heard the term too much of anything isn’t good for you? Well, the same logic applies to protective styles. As much as they’re great for your hair – if you wear the same hairstyle all the time without breaks in between then you’re not giving your hair enough time to recover. Putting constant tension on your hair strands and scalp eventually leads to hair loss.

    2. What you class as a protective hairstyle isn’t protecting your hair strands

    Another drawback is that what you consider as a protective style isn’t actually a protective hairstyle. Let’s delve into the definition of “what is a protective hairstyle?” to help understand what we mean. A protective hairstyle means your hair is fully tucked up and away and your ends are completely hidden. So if you’re rocking a style wear a big chunk of your hair isn’t tucked away then that isn’t a protective style.

    For example : Although some sew-ins are classed as a protective style, if you have a lot of leave out then your hair isn’t fully protected. This is because you’ll be manipulating your hair regularly to make sure it blends with your hair. Another example of this is mermaid braids – if the ends of your hair are not fully braided and are left out with the braiding hair then your ends are not protected.

    3. Tight protective hairstyles lead to hair loss and alopecia

    Thirdly, tight styles and pulling along the hairline can lead to hair loss and alopecia. If you’re not careful, the problem will become irreversible leading to long term damage. This is why it’s important to speak up at your appointments if you feel your hair is too tight. Many people believe braiding the hair tight will make your hairstyle last longer but it’s actually leading to damage. When wearing protective styles – you should always make sure they’re not tight or pulling on your edges. Remember, Type 4 hair is fine and fragile. Protective hairstyles can add weight to your already fine hair especially when adding braiding hair and extensions. 

    4. If you don’t care for your hair while wearing them then you’ll experience matting

    Certain protective styles can lead to matting if worn for extended periods of times. Protective hairstyles such as braids and twists can cause your hair to matt as the strands become tangled within the style. This is why it’s important to not wear your style for more than 8 weeks at a time. 12 weeks max if you have a good maintenance routine. When removing the style, use a leave-in conditioner or detangler with a great slip to make the process easier and stop you from pulling out any of your hair strands.

    Now despite the drawbacks, this doesn’t mean protective styles don’t work. It’s just about being aware of the best protective styles to achieve your goals and following the right prep and maintenance techniques.

    Best protective hairstyle for hair growth 

    protective hairstyles / protective styles

    Here are the best protective hairstyles if you’re trying to achieve length.

    1. Cornrows 

    This is the best protective hairstyle as your hair is fully protected while wearing the style. The great thing about cornrows is they can be worn in a multitude of ways such as using braiding hair or using your own natural hair. They may not last as long as braids because they get rough easily but a fantastic option for women keen on retaining length. 

    Flat twists are a great alternative to cornrows and keep your hair protected in a similar way without having to use braiding hair. 

    2. Crochet braids

    Another great protective style for holding onto your hair growth. With this style, your hair is fully protected and there is no need to manipulate your hair because it’s completely tucked away. You can experiment with curly or straight extensions offering you a versatility of styling options. 

    3. Sew ins with minimal leave out 

    Sew-ins have a mixed feedback but if installed correctly then you shouldn’t have any problems. The key is to have minimal leave-out or apply a closure. Get your stylist to install a net over your cornrows to help keep them intact and also to minimise any tension on your hair from the sewing of the wefts. Make sure you have at least 5 inches of hair to cover your leave out so you’re not manipulating it daily. Wearing extensions that match your natural hair pattern is a MUST if you don’t want to use heat daily so opt for kinky straight or kinky curly bundles. Lastly, make sure your sew in isn’t too tight! That’s the number one cause of traction alopecia which you’ll want to eradicate when wearing sew-ins.

    4. Medium sized braids

    There are many ways to rock braids such as fulani/tribal, french curl, knotless, boho and mermaid braids. But medium sized knotless or box braids are the best if you’re trying to make the most of your hair growth. It minimises any pulling or tension when styling your hair into ponytails or buns and isn’t too heavy on your scalp. Some braid styles mermaid braids aren’t actually protective if the ends of your hair aren’t completely braided. So bear that in mind when trying out new braid styles.

    5. Mini Twists 

    Mini twists are a perfect protective hairstyle which are low maintenance but also makes it easy to wash your hair and keep it hydrated. The twists are lightweight making it minimal risk for pulling and tugging along your hairline. They’re versatile and can be worn in buns, ponytails, half up half down styles etc. One thing to be weary of is twists can matt easily when washing your and can twist around each other. So don’t keep them in longer than 8 weeks at time. Remove carefully and finger detangle with a product with a lot of slip.

    6. Glueless Wigs 

    Wigs are great as you’re able to take them down daily. If you prefer frontals then you want to be careful of the product and glue use along the hairline as this can cause hairloss around your edges and irritation. If hair growth is you main goal for wearing a protective style then opt for a glueless wig. You can always use mousse and sprtiz on the closure to lay it down. Aside from that, there are several other options available that will cause no damage to your hairline such as headband wigs, u part wigs, half wigs and v part wigs.

    How to Properly care for your hair while wearing a Protective Hairstyle

    Here are our top tips for caring for your natural hair when wearing a protective hairstyle.

    • Prep your hair prior to installing your new style
    • Have a maintenance routine and stick to it!
    • Hydrate your hair regularly : Spritz with hydrating mist and seal with an oil to keep your hair moisturised 
    • Sleep with a silk scarf or silk bonnet 
    • Wear your style for a maximum of 8 weeks to eliminate matting 
    • Give your hair a break in between styles – ideally 2 weeks
    • SPEAK UP at your hair appointments : If your hair feels too tight or pulling on your hairline then let your stylist know straight away instead of dealing with the problem overnight.

    FAQ’s re; Protective Hairstyle

    1: Do protective hairstyles help your hair grow?

    Protective styles don’t grow your hair but help with retaining length and holding onto hair that would have been lost from daily styling and over manipulation. When removing the hairstyle, you’re likely to see a lot of shed hair. But don’t panic! Your hair sheds up to 100 hairs per day so just view it as trapped dead hair that doesn’t have anywhere to go. This doesn’t mean you shouldn’t be careful and patient when removing the style. Saturate your hands with oils to make the loosening process easier and finger detangle first before following up with a wide tooth comb.

    2: How long should you let your hair breathe between protective styles?

    Ideally 2 weeks. Give your hair time to breathe before following up with your next protective style. It might be worth alternating styles too if you find certain parts of your hair weaker than others. The same applies for bun and ponytail styles. Always alternate your parting so you’re not putting too much tension on one side. 

    3: What is the longest lasting protective hairstyle?

    Braids are the longest lasting style as they tend to last 8 to 12 weeks. Other styles such as crochet braids or sew-ins are a close second as they last up to 8 weeks. If you’re not a fan of protective styles which includes the use of added hair then mini twists and flat twists are a great option. If you’re a fan of wigs than that another win win! You can get your hair cornrowed underneath and leave them in for up to 6 weeks at a time. 

    4: What protective style is the least damaging?

    Cornrow based styles such as crochet braids, cornrows with or without braiding hair are the best protective hairstyle to minimise damage. Your hair is completely tucked away and the hair used is quite light and doesn’t weigh down your hair. Sew-ins with minimal leave out or closure is also a safe style due to the cornrow base. If you’re a fan of braids then stick to medium sized braids that aren’t too tight so it doesn’t pull on your hairline.

    5: How to prep hair for a protective style?

    Your hair should be freshly washed and fully hydrated before installing any protective style. Here are some steps to follow

    1. Use a clarifying shampoo to strip any dirt or build up. Then follow up with a moisturising/hydrating shampoo
    2. Apply a moisturising treatment for at least 30 mins, using heat or steam to help the product penetrate through. Read or guide for Deep Conditioning Type 4 hair for product recommendations.
    3. Once rinsed out, apply a leave-in conditioner (always do this in sections of 4 to ensure the product is equally distributed).
    4. Seal your ends with an oil to help keep the moisture locked into your strands. Read our guide for on sealing vs moisturizing oils to know what products to use.
    5. Airdry or blow dry as you desire

    BONUS TIP : If you’re using braiding hair or extensions then wash the hair prior to installation to remove any chemicals or dirt that may cause irritation to your scalp You can also do an apple cider vinegar rinse. 

    FINAL THOUGHTS

    Understanding the pros and cons of your protective hairstyle is crucial for maintaining healthy natural hair. Opt for styles that fully protect your hair or has minimal leave-out. Before installation, prep your hair thoroughly and ensure it’s well moisturised before sealing with an oil.

    Regularly clarify and hydrate your scalp to promote cleanliness and keep your hair healthy. Creating a clean environment minimises product buildup, allowing your hair to thrive.

    What’s your experience with protective styles? Share your tips and thoughts in the comments!

  • Can sew-ins help you achieve your natural hair growth goals?

    Can sew-ins help you achieve your natural hair growth goals?

    Get ready to jump on the bandwagon because sew-ins are staging a triumphant comeback in the natural hair community, offering not just style but also promoting hair growth! Whilst traditional sew ins have been a trusted protective style for decades, they’ve also faced their fair share of challenges. Blending your leave-out seamlessly with your weave? Isn’t always a walk in the park. And let’s not even get started on the struggle of maintaining your natural hair’s health underneath your weave. With the hair industry stepping up its game and offering an array of extensions that match every Type 4 hair texture – from kinky to coily to curly – it’s no wonder sew-ins are reclaiming their throne.

    Now, you might be wondering, “How exactly can sew-ins help me reach my natural hair growth goals?” We’re here to spill the tea on all the pros, cons, and tips for caring for your natural hair whilst rocking a sew-in. So buckle up Naturalistas and keep reading for everything you need to know about sew-ins. It’s time to unravel the good/bad/ugly and figure out if this is the secret weapon your hair growth journey has been missing!

    4 Ways Sew-Ins Contribute to Hair Growth

    Sew ins can be potentially classed as a double protective style as your hair is cornrowed to your scalp with all your ends are tucked away and the weave is sewn on top. If installed and maintained correctly, you’ll experience hair growth and noticeable length retention when you finally remove your extensions. Protective styles are designed to promote hair growth by minimising daily styling, constant detangling and tugging on your hair. It also helps reduce damage from environmental factors and the use of excessive styling tools such as heat.

    Here are 4 main ways sew-ins contribute to natural hair growth: 

    1. Break from daily styling : 

    Doing the simplest things such as detangling, combing, pulling and tugging on your natural hair can have an impact on your hair growth. Sew-ins give you the option to give your hair a break from the stresses that come with daily styling whilst promoting hair growth.

    2. Reduction of breakage and split end : 

    Afro textured hair is extremely fragile, so keeping your hair in a cornrow based style leads to less breakage and split ends. This is because your ends are tucked away and won’t be rubbing on your clothes or exposed to harsh environmental factors.

    3. Supports length retention : 

    As your hands are out of your hair, you’re able to hold onto your new growth and minimise excessive shedding. When you take out your sew-in, you’ll notice a significant amount of length. That’s not because your hair hasn’t been growing at that rate all year round. But purely because you’ve left your hair alone during that period of time making the length more noticeable.

    4. Creates an environment for your hair to thrive : 

    Like it or not – leaving your hair alone and not constantly putting your hands in your hair helps your hair flourish. 

    Although we’ve mainly focussed on the benefits of sew-ins. It’s important to note that sew-ins can lead to damage if not installed correctly. Not having an effective maintenance routine to care for your natural hair underneath the sew in also has a part to play. If not careful, you’ll end up with your hair matting, tension along your hairline if it’s too tight and in some cases thinning. But don’t worry, we’ve got you covered with some tips to help you maintain your hair whilst wearing a sew in to stop the above from happening.

    sew in natural hair growth

    How much does hair grow with sew in?

    Your hair will grow at the same rate as it normally does. This is typically up to an inch per month depending on your hair growth cycle. However, you’re likely to see an increased amount of growth due to your hair being in a protective style. This will vary depending on your maintenance routine, lifestyle and diet. But trust us when we say sew-ins do contribute to natural hair growth!

    Let me share a personal experience to give you some insight: Normally, my hair grows about 0.5 inches per month. However, during a 2 and half stint of wearing a sew-in, I noticed an impressive inch of hair growth per month. How did this happen? Well, less shedding from daily styling certainly played a role, but more importantly, I gave my hair a break. I made sure to maintain its health by clarifying every 2 – 3 weeks, deep conditioning on wash days, and moisturising my cornrows regularly.

    Now, here’s the surprise: when I finally removed my cornrows, I was greeted with a lot of shedding. At first, this was a bit alarming. But then I remembered something crucial: hair sheds naturally, roughly 50 – 100 strands a day. So think about the shedding as trapped hair that’s been patiently waiting for its moment of freedom. So, when you unravel those cornrows, you’re simply setting them free.

    7 ways to maintain your natural hair whilst wearing a weave             

    Here are our top tips for maintaining your sew-ins and natural hair to help you achieve optimal hair growth.   

    1. Prep your hair :

    Prior to getting your hair installed. You want to ensure your hair is moisturised and hydrated. Start off with a moisturising shampoo and then follow up with a moisturising deep conditioner. When deep conditioning, use heat to ensure the product penetrates thoroughly through the hair shaft. Once dry – use the LOC or LCO method to seal in the moisture to support moisture retention. 

    2. Wash and Clarify your hair : 

    Even though your natural hair is tucked away. Your hair is still susceptible to build up so make sure you’re still washing your hair regularly to remove any build up. This can be done every 2 to 3 weeks. For easy penetration use products like Camille Rose Ginger Cleansing Rinse or Girl + Hair Apple Cider Vinegar Rinse which has a nozzle which gets right into the roots of your hair. If you’re still experiencing a significant amount of build up – use a clarifying shampoo like Aunt Jackie’s Power Wash which is great for removing buildup without stripping your scalp from natural oils.

    3. Treat your hair as you normally would: 

    Just because your hair is in a weave doesn’t mean you should skip your regular treatments. Incorporate them into your routine even if it’s once a month for that extra nourishment. It might be harder for your deep conditioning treatment to penetrate through the tracks so use a steam cap or handheld steamer. This will open up your cuticles and help the product penetrate through your hair shaft.

    4. Make sure your cornrows are fully dry after washing:

    Before you style your hair – make sure it’s completely dry!!! This avoids your hair having a damp mouldy smell but also necessary for scalp care. This is the one time where you’ll want to use heat on your hair. Use a blow dryer or hood dryer on a medium setting.  I like to use a hooded dryer attachment so I can sit back and relax without having achy arms. 

    5. Moisturise your hair regularly: 

    Moisturising is a key part of keeping your hair healthy so follow up with a leave-in conditioner after each wash. For easy penetration, use a leave-in spray or mix your leave-in with some water and spritz it across your cornrows. If you feel your hair is dry during the week, you can always re-spritz to rehydrate your hair.

    6. Use minimal heat on your leave out : 

    It’s okay to straighten your hair to blend with your extensions but straightening your hair everyday will lead to heat damage. Use heat every wash day and maintain it by wrapping your hair at night or using heat free tools like flexi rods. Purchasing extensions that match your hair texture will minimise the regular use of heat.

    7. Scalp Care: 

    Looking after your scalp is another important step to achieve optimal hair growth whilst wearing a sew in. If you’re prone to a dry scalp, make sure you oil your scalp at least once a week to eradicate excessive dryness. Be careful not to overload your scalp with oils, a little goes a long way. Or you can try a pomade like Keracare Dry & Itchy Scalp Glossifier.

    moisture for 4C hair

    Additional Tips to make the most of your natural hair growth whilst wearing a sew in 

    1. Make sure your hair isn’t too tight :

    To avoid hair loss and receding hairline, go to a stylist who isn’t too heavy handed and actually cares about natural hair. The worst thing is ending up with super tight cornrows and tracks. Speak up at your appointments if you feel your hair is too tight and set expectations before they start the process.

    2. Use a net for added protection :

    Getting a net installed on top of your cornrows will provide less tension when the tracks are being sewn on top. Plus, it’ll help your weave and cornrows stay intact when washing and cleansing your hair.

    3. Minimal leave out :

    The style of sew-in you choose will have an impact on how often you’ll need to blend your leave out. Opt for styles such as a full sew-in, closure sew-in, flip over method or minimal leave out to avoid over manipulating your hair daily. 

    4. Protect your edges :

    Your baby hairs are very fragile and delicate. So, take care of it by using water-based styling gels and moisturising it with leave-in conditioners. You can also use edge control but be mindful of build up and avoid using heated styling tools on a regular basis.

    5. Purchase a weave that matches your hair texture :

    This tip really speaks for itself. If you want to have less stress and not have to constantly straighten your hair to blend with a different texture than get kinky straight, kinky coily or kinky curly texture.

    6. Experiment with heat free tools :

     Using rollers, flexi rods or pillow curls will minimise the use of heat when styling your hair whilst giving you a nice stylish look. 

    How long does sew in last on natural hair? And How long should you wear it?

    Although, sew ins can last up to 3 months if properly maintained. You’ll want to stick to wearing it for a maximum of 8 weeks to prevent matting.  If your main goal for wearing sew-ins is to achieve optimal hair growth then stick to this rule! Some of the benefits for this are as follows; 

    • It’ll make it easier for you to loosen your cornrows and remove your tracks
    • Minimises the amount of detangling you’ll need to do and releases trapped shed dead hairs
    • Gives you an opportunity to properly clarify your hair and remove any build up that was trapped underneath your cornrows
    • Let’s your scalp breathe 

    FAQS re; Sew Ins

    1: Does weave damage your hair?

    No – weave doesn’t damage your hair. The improper installation and maintenance of weaves damage your hair. One of the fastest reasons for damage is the cornrows and tracks being sewn too tight, eventually pulling on the roots of your hair and scalp. If not careful this could lead to alopecia. 

    The second reason for damage is using excessive heat on your leave out to blend your hair. Make sure to use textures that blend with your hair and minimise heat use to wash days. In between wash days you can maintain your leave out by wrapping your hair at night or utilising rollers/flexi rods to keep your hair in a stretched state.

    Thirdly, go to a stylist who actually cares about natural hair and not just what the finished product will look like. If you feel your hair is too tight then speak up straight away. Don’t leave it till you’ve finished – that’s one thing we need to do more off rather than being upset when we get home.

    2: Sew in hair growth before and after

    Here are some videos of Naturalista’s on TikTok sharing their hair growth experiences from wearing a sew-in:

    @iamnurselana

    #question from @iamalaynab Who said sew -ins will not grow your hair fast! I am proof ! 3 months of sew-ins w/leave out & not touching or oiling my scalp in between got me here! I literally did nothing in between wash days ! #trusttheprocess #hairtok #blackhair #naturalhair #silkpress #hairgrowth #hairjourney #lendylux #fup #foryoupage #foryourpage #hairgrowth #fasthairgrowth #blackgirlhairgrowth

    ♬ Happy – DJ Keblinger$

    3: Are sew ins good for natural hair

    Yes! sew-ins are good for natural hair especially for length retention. Your hair is tucked away keeping it protected whilst wearing the style. Do sew-ins have disadvantages? Yes – they do if not properly maintained or installed too tight. But with the right maintenance techniques you shouldn’t experience any drawbacks on your natural hair when wearing a sew in.

    4: What are the disadvantages of sew in hair extensions

    Although sew-ins have many benefits and can contribute to natural hair growth goals. They also have their cons, see the list below;

    • Sew-in weaves can be damaging to your natural hair if not installed correctly from tight braids
    • Can cause scalp irritation so make sure you wash your natural hair and extensions prior to installation
    • Prolonged wear can lead to breakage and thinning. Stick to the 8 week rule to minimise this
    • Can be difficult to keep cornrows moisturised and hydrated whilst wearing them

    5: What is the most natural looking sew-in?

    The most natural looking sew in is the flip over method coined by one of the OG’s in the natural hair community – Ivy League Powell! This method requires minimal leave out, roughly an inch around the perimeter of your hairline and offers a seamless blend. It can be styled in a ponytail and the hair can be flipped into any direction.

    If you’re not up for dealing with leave out daily then you can also get a sew in with a closure. The tip to natural looking sew ins is the blend and quality of your hair extensions. There’s no point buying a brazilian straight if you have 4C hair because it won’t blend and even if it does on day one. It’ll quickly revert back!

    Curly sew-ins also offer a natural blend and are easy to style. Just be ready to maintain the weave by keeping the hair moisturised and detangling regularly as curly hair is prone to tangles. If you’re struggling to decide on what texture to purchase, read our article on Best Extensions for Type 4 Hair.

    FINAL THOUGHTS 

    We trust you’ve gained a clearer insight into how sew-ins can elevate your natural hair growth goals, along with valuable tips to ensure your hair remains healthy. While sew-ins do present certain drawbacks, they also offer numerous benefits that can accelerate your growth goals. The key lies in proper installation and a detailed maintenance routine. Once you’ve mastered these fundamentals, you’re bound to see remarkable results.

    We’re eager to hear about your personal experiences with sew-ins! Drop a comment below and share your stories with us. Let’s continue this conversation and empower each other on our hair care journey.

  • Silk Press Tips : 10 Maintenance Tricks You Need To Know

    Silk Press Tips : 10 Maintenance Tricks You Need To Know

    As much as we love silk presses! The hardest part of getting a silk press is the maintenance and getting it to last without reverting and heat damage. Most Naturalistas struggle with their curl pattern reverting once they get in contact with steam, heat or sweat. Especially Type 4 Naturalistas who have a coarser and tighter texture. We’ll be delving into some silk press tips to help you get the most out of the style. Plus run through some FAQ’s to help you care for your coils and curls.

    Silk presses are great for switching up your natural kinks, coils and curls for a sleeker and straighter look. It gives you a new look without having to chemically alter your hair strands with relaxers, keratin treatments and texture releases. They’re awesome for when you want to wear straighter hairstyles for special occasions like weddings, events, nights out etc. Once you get a silk press – you feel like a new person. To be honest – with any hairstyle you feel like a new woman! You can go from being Brandy with braids to Nia Long with a pixie cut and Beyonce with a weave. That’s the beauty of natural hair – you have so much versatility with your styling options. 

    What is a silk press? 

    A silk press is a technique used to straighten your Type 3 & Type 4 hair texture without using any form of chemicals. The process differs from using just a flat iron due to the technique and products used to give it the soft and silky look without weighing down your natural hair. It’s basically a wash, blow dry and press using lightweight serums and leave ins. 

    The technique includes blow drying your coils and curls in a stretched straight state to achieve a blowout look. Followed up with a flat iron to help seal in that extra smoothness and silkiness with 1 to 2 passes. If done correctly, you shouldn’t have any heat damage and your hair should revert back to its natural state once you wash it.

    How long does a silk press last?

    They typically last 2 to 4 weeks depending on how you maintain it. It’s likely your roots will become puffier at the end of the 2nd week due to sweat, moisture and weather. However, the majority of your hair should still remain straight until you fully saturate your hair with water and wash your hair. Some naturals will have slightly longer results if they silk press regularly and have trained their hair.

    silk press tips
    Source : Nappy Images @reishareynolds

    10 Tips & Tricks for making your Silk Press last longer

    1. Avoid Moisture

    We all know moisture is key for natural hair to grow and thrive but in a silk press environment. Moisture and humidity is the enemy!  Once you get in contact with it – your hair will begin to revert and puff up again. Now there will be points of the day it’ll be impossible to stay away from moisture completely. For instance – when you shower in the morning, sweat from working out and humid or rainy weather conditions.

    Here are some tips on how you can minimise moisture whilst rocking your silk press:

    • Showering 
    • Wrap your hair tightly in a scarf (in fact 2 for that extra protection), then bonnet and wear a shower cap on top to lock out the steam
    • You might want to shower with lukewarm water as opposed to a higher temperature to reduce the steam.
    • Washing your face  
    • Make sure your hair is wrapped or pinned away before washing your face. For extra protection, wear a towel headband along your hairline. This will help soak excess water and stop it from travelling to the rest of your hair
    • Working out
    • Wear your hair in a ponytail and apply a scarf. Wear a sweatband on your forehead or directly on top of your hairline to soak up the sweat 
    • DO NOT remove your scarf until your hair is completely dry! This will help your hair dry back in a stretched state as opposed to reverting 

    2. Prep your Hair – Clarify and Deep Conditioning Treatment 

    Prepping your hair is a really important step if you want your silk press to last. To get a nice flowy look your hair needs to be washed thoroughly and all product build up should be removed from your hair and scalp. Silk presses won’t last on dirty hair – simple as! So wash your hair with a clarifying shampoo and then follow up with a moisturising shampoo to make sure your scalp is clean. 

    It’s also important to get as much moisture locked into your hair strands prior to the straightening process. Get a deep conditioning treatment with hydration benefits and use steam to help the product penetrate through your hair shaft. Then follow up with a liquid based leave in conditioner. This helps you lock in as much moisture as possible to keep your hair healthy and not dry whilst wearing the style.

    Source : GIPHY @shalitagrant

    3. Stay away from water based and heavy products 

    Water will revert your hair so you want to stay away from any moisturisers that contain liquid. Instead you’ll want to use lightweight oils and serums. Be careful not to be too heavy handed with products. The last thing you’ll want is greasy looking hair. Too much product on your silk press will weigh it down and you’ll no longer have that flowy silky look.

    4. Wrap your hair at night 

    Don’t go to bed without wrapping your hair no matter how tired you are! Trust me, you’ll regret it in the morning. Wrap your hair at night with a silk scarf and then wear a bonnet on top. For extra protection opt for a satin or silk pillowcase in case your scarf wants to go for walkies in the middle of the night! (Bad joke! But you get the gist).

    5. Touch up on a low setting 

    You want to avoid re-adding heat to your hair once your silk press has been done. But may need to touch up your hair depending on how long you plan to wear your silk press for. To avoid any form of heat damage, stick to blow drying your roots on a low setting. We’d avoid re-straightening but if you have to – work in sections and do 1 pass. Your silk press should look as good as brand new with a touch up here and there.

    6. Style with flexi rods and pin curls once your roots start frizzing 

    This is one of our fav tips to get more out of your silk press without having to reapply heat. You can experiment with flexi rods, rollers and pin curls. It won’t be super sleek but it’ll still be straight with a slight bounce to it. This is a great way of styling out puffy roots whilst making the most of your press. You can go a step further by experimenting with different styles. You could do a half up half down style or pin up part of your hair with a claw clip.

    silk press tips
    Source : Unsplash @eyeforebony

    7. Try a Dry Shampoo

    If your hair is becoming greasy from oils/serums starting to weigh your hair down. You can use a dry shampoo to remove the grease and stretch your style for another week or 2. It’s important not to be heavy handed with products when wearing a silk press so bear that in mind when styling your hair daily. 

    8. Use products that fight away humidity 

    There are various products on the market that help fight away frizz so opt for products that have these properties when choosing, serums, oils and heat protectants. Although these ingredients don’t completely get rid of humidity – it definitely helps keep it at bay making your style last longer. 

    9. Use wax sticks & edge control

    It’s likely you’ll have multiple fly aways after getting a silk press. Instead of re-straightening and trying to get them completely perfect – use a wax stick to keep them in place. Style your edges with edge control and not gel. Gel has liquid based properties and will lead to frizz.

    10. Go to a Professional  

    If you’re unsure of how to do a silk press then go to a professional who specialises in it. Ask for some tips on how to maintain your silk press and get some product recommendations. Talk the stylist through pain points you’ve had in the past and they should be able to offer you a tailored solution that’ll work best for your hair type and lifestyle.

    Source : Pexels @rdnestockproject

    Product Recommendations

    Here are some popular products recommended by Naturalista’s who regularly get a silk press.

    1. Chi Silk Infusion

    Chi

    2. BioSilk Silk Therapy

    BioSilk

    3. Design Essentials Agave & Lavender weightless Thermal Protectant Serum

    Design Essentials

    4. Living Proof Instant De-Frizzer (Unfortunately, the Humidity Shield was discontinued)

    Living Proof

    5. Color Wow Dreamcoat Spray (This product is designed to keep out humidity. Th extra strength is better suited for Type 4 naturals and must be used on damp hair prior to blow drying)

    Color Wow

    Frequently Asked Questions

    1: How do I keep my silk press from frizzing?

    The key is to stay away from moisture and humidity. Wrap your hair whenever you’re at home with a silk or satin scarf to minimise your ends from rubbing on your clothes. Use products with anti frizz properties and you might want to try a hair spray you can lightly mist your hair with prior to heading out. You’ll also want to be mindful of how you style your hair in very humid conditions. 

    2: How do I make my silk press look fuller?

    Add flat curls to your ends or bump your ends with a straightener to help add volume. You can also add some soft rollers at night to give you that 90’s blow out look that is straight but still full of volume. If your hair is really fine – you can add a couple tracks that match your hair texture for more volume. It doesn’t have to be a lot – 2 – 4 tracks will suffice.

    3: How damaging is a silk press?

    If done correctly, you shouldn’t experience any damage from a silk press. Heat doesn’t damage hair but EXCESSIVE HEAT damages hair! Prior to getting a silk press make sure your hair is in a healthy state and not already damaged. If you have split ends, it’s best to get them snipped to prevent it from travelling further. If your hair is damaged from colour or excessive breakage then it’s best to stay away from silk presses until you nourish your hair back to health. 

    Once you wash your hair, your natural curls and coils will revert. Just be mindful of how often you get a silk press and not re-adding heat constantly to keep your hair healthy. 

    4: Can you workout with a silk press?

    Yes – you can workout with a silk press but have to be extra careful with your maintenance routine. Here are some steps to follow;

    • Step 1 : Put hair in a high ponytail
    • Step 2 : Apply a scarf
    • Step 3 : Place a sweatband on top to soak up any sweat along your hairline
    • Step 4 : DO NOT REMOVE your scarf until your hair is fully dry!
    • Step 5 : Once dry – style as normal or wrap your hair 

    FINAL THOUGHTS

    We hope you found our silk press tips helpful. Silk Presses are great but it’s all about the technique and products you use to get your hair in a silky straight state. Make sure to do the prep needed to get enough moisture into your hair strands to keep your hair healthy.

    Source: GIPHY @ashtaeproducts

    Have you tried any of these TIP’s? Do you have any further suggestions?

    We’d love to hear from you. Leave a comment below

  • The truth about braids for hair growth & length retention

    The truth about braids for hair growth & length retention

    Braids are one of the most popular protective hairstyles for black women. They’re the perfect holiday hairstyle, last a long time, easy to style and keep your ends protected. Braids can have a positive impact on length retention and helps you make the most of your new growth. How? You may wonder! Well, your hands are kept out of your hair whilst wearing the style which minimises wear and tear that comes with daily styling. But with any protective style moderation is key! It’s also important to know how to maintain your natural hair whilst wearing braids to get the most out of your hair growth and minimise any breakage or excessive shedding when you finally decide to take them out.

    We’ll be giving you a run down on how braids can contribute to your hair growth goals. Plus TIP’s on what TO DO/ NOT DO to make the most of your length retention whilst wearing your braids. 

    Are braids good for length retention?

    Braids are a great way to retain length but to get the most out of your hair growth you need to ensure you maintain them effectively. The length, size and tightness of the braids all have a part to play. Here’s 3 ways braids contribute to length retention:

    • Less Manipulation – when wearing braids, you don’t have to deal with daily styling! Your hair is left alone giving it the opportunity to thrive without constantly touching it. Excessive styling of hair is known to contribute to shedding and breakage if not done with the right styling tools, being done too frequently or being heavy handed. It’s okay to leave your hair alone and let it breathe which is what braids offer you.
    • Minimal Detangling – Detangling is part and parcel of every Naturalista’s life. Type 4 hair is prone to tangling due to its tight curl pattern. When detangling, it’s all about detangling with care and using products with the right amount of slip to make the process easier. As your hair is tucked away in braids for at least 6 to 8 weeks – you’ll experience less hair loss from the detangling process.
    • Protected Ends – The ends of our hair is the oldest part which means it’s prone to breakage, split ends and knots. Keeping ends protected helps minimise split ends travelling up the hair shaft and can contribute to length retention because you’ll be snipping a minimal amount when it’s time for your trim.

    Can braids make your hair grow longer?

    The truth is braids does not make your hair grow. There is a big misconception regarding growth and retention when it comes to braids. Scientifically, hair starts from  “new cells forming in the hair bulb. Once the cells stick together and harden, the full strand of hair develops. They attach to the hair from below and gradually push up out of the skin”. 1There are various phases to the hair growth cycle known as the Anagen, Transitional and Resting Phase. The Anagen phase is also known as the growth phase. “At any point in time, about 90 percent of a person’s total amount of hair is in this growth phase.” So as long as new cells are continuously created in the hair bulb then your hair is likely to grow longer. Click here to learn more about the hair growth cycle.

    Now there are various things that can contribute to hair growth such as genetics, diet, lifestyle, hair maintenance routine etc. But braids alone can’t grow your hair. You’re likely to feel like your hair has grown quicker and longer faster because you can clearly see your new growth as your braids begin to grow out. The truth is the growth is just more visible because it’s more obvious compared to if you were wearing your hair in a bun or twist out everyday. Don’t let this discourage you from wearing braids because although it doesn’t contribute to growth. Braids help you retain length you wouldn’t have been able to hold onto if your hair wasn’t protected. 

    Braid bumps on scalp

    Is it healthy to put your hair in braids?

    We’ve all seen the horror stories that come with braids, especially when you’ve seen people experience thinning edges, alopecia or scalp irritation. But it’s important to note that wearing braids is healthy whether you decide to use your own natural hair or braiding hair to create your braids. Aside from it being a great protective style, wearing braids can add many benefits to your natural hair. Here are 5 ways braids can contribute to your hairs health:

    • Helps lock in moisture and hydration within the hair strands
    • Prevents split ends for natural wear and tear
    • Prevents breakage 
    • Protects hair whilst you sleep 
    • Low Maintenance 

    Are braids good for thinning hair?

    In a nutshell NO. If you’re hair is already fragile and thinning. Wearing braids could lead to additional damage. Braids are usually done with synthetic or human braiding hair. Although they’re not heavy when you feel them, you’ll be attaching the braiding hair to individual strands of your hair which will add tension to your hair follicles. If you’re not careful – you could end up with alopecia. 

    So what’s the option if you like wearing braids. Well, you might want to opt for something like crochet braids. In this style, your hair is cornrowed down and the braiding hair is crochet’d on top of the cornrows. The reason why this method works so well is because your natural hair is already braided down to your scalp. Leading to less pulling on tugging on your natural hair when styling. 

    Why am I losing so much hair after braiding?

    It’s normal for your hair to shed between 50 to 100 hairs a day. Once you’ve taken out your braids, it might feel like you’ve lost alot of hair but it’s most likely to be hair that shed and was trapped in between the braids. So don’t panic if you notice alot more hair falling out then you normally do. Now there’s a difference between shedding and breakage. I’d say it’s important to distinguish between the two to know if you should be panicking or not. A quick way to tell the difference between the two is shed hair tends to be the full length of your hair strand whereas breakage tends to be shorter and brittle strands. 

    Here are a few ways you can minimise excessive shedding and loss of healthy hair strands whilst removing your braids

    1. Take ur time :

    Don’t be in a rush when taking out your braids. Be prepared for it to take a couple of hours, you want to use the same amount of care at the beginning of the braid removal process as the last braid. You can rope in a friend and take breaks in between if needed. 

    2. Don’t be heavy handed :

    This is pretty self-explanatory, it’s likely some of your braiding hair can get tangled with your hair when pulling or tugging. So be gentle to ensure you’re not pulling and ripping out your natural hair. 

    3. Loosen from the tip upwards :

    Always loosen the braid from the tip before moving upwards. 

    4. Detangle with care :

    You can use a detangling product and spritz your hair with water to make the detangling process easier. Depending on how long you’ve had your braids in, you’re likely to experience some build up. So take your time to remove the build up from each section as opposed to detangling it all at once. Remember: working in sections and on damp hair makes detangling easier.

    How long should I wear my Braids? And How often do braids need to be re-done?

    Stick to 8 weeks and if you want to stretch your braids a little longer than 10 weeks max. Like any protective style, there is a limit to how long you can wear it. For instance, if you keep your braids in for too long, you can end up with excessive buildup which would make the removal and detangling process harder. 

    Braids around your hairline tend to grow older quicker than the rest purely because it tends to be the shorter part of your hair but also because it’s the area you tend to style the most. You can always get this re-done around the 3 – 4 week mark. This helps the style look fresher but also minimises any pulling of the hair along your hair line. 

    Top Tips for Using Braids for Length Retention

    braids for length retention

    Additional Tip’s for using braids to achieve optimal length retention

    Having the right maintenance routine will have a huge impact on how much length you retain whilst wearing braids. We’ve broken down some Do’s & Don’ts of what to do to help you on your journey.

    * TIP : Everyone’s hair is different so test them out and see how they work for you. You can always adopt the tips to suit you as and when needed.

    Do’s of Wearing Braids for length retention

    1. Wash your scalp :

    We would recommend at least once a month if you want to limit frizz. How often you wash your braids really depends on your lifestyle. For instance, if you’re a regular in the gym and your scalp is itchy from sweat then you might want to wash your hair more often.

    2. Ensure your hair is fully DRY :

    This is an important step! If you’re hair is damp and not fully dry then you’ll have an irritable scalp and your braids will smell like mould. You can definitely air dry your braids but to speed things up then use a blow dryer to dry the roots and let the rest of your braids air dry.

    3. Moisturise & Seal ends :

    Get into the habit of moisturising and sealing your ends. Although your hair is protected, it still needs moisture to thrive and not become overly dry. You can mix your leave in conditioner with some water in a spray bottle and spritz across the length of your braids. For extra protection, seal with an oil to keep your hair hydrated for longer.

    4. Re-do Braids Along Hairline:

    If you noticed the braids along the hairline are pulling on your edges. Then theres no harm in re-doing it so it doesn’t rip out your hair. You can get it re-done every 3 – 4 weeks which will help keep your hair looking fresh and limit the damage to your hair follicles.

    5. Have Break:

    If braids are your go to style then have a break in between braids. Like any protective style, moderation is key. Excessively doing the same hairstyle can lead to damage so its best to give yourself at least a week or 2 break before re-braiding.

    6. Speak Up:

    If you notice your stylist is braiding your hair too tightly then speak up there and then! Don’t let your stylist go rogue with what they want to do and end up regretting it after. Let them know straight away if there pulling your hair too tight and stop them from continuing. Change stylists next time if you’re not happy.

    Don’ts of Wearing Braids for length retention

    1. Tight styles :

    Don’t constantly wear your hair up or in tight ponytail styles. This adds tension to your hairline and can end up pulling on your hairline eventually damaging your hair follicles. This isn’t to say you cant wear your hair in buns or ponytails but just limit the amount of times and alternate your hairstyles.

    2. Wear for too long

    The advise is to stick to a maximum of 8 weeks. Some people do like to stretch their hairstyles so could potentially wear braids for longer such as 10 – 12 weeks. However, I wouldn’t go beyond that time and would pay extra attention to your hairline.

    8 Ways to Style Your Braids

    Final Thoughts 

    Braids are a great protective style and great way to maximise length retention. The key is to still have a maintenance routine whilst wearing them to ensure your hair and scalp is healthy. You’ll want to stick to medium sized braids and minimise tight hairstyles to make the most of your new hair growth. Braids offer you a variety of styling options whilst protecting your natural hair at the same time. It also requires minimal effort whilst wearing them so they’re a WIN WIN for Naturalista’s who don’t have as much time on their hands.

    Here are some other braid articles that may be off interest to you;

    How to Relieve Tight Braids and Treat Braid Bumps?

    Everything you need to know about French Curl Braids

    SOURCES :

    1. What is the structure of hair and how does it grow? : IQWiG (Institute for Quality and Efficiency in Health Care) https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK546248/
      ↩︎
  • How to Rock Clip-in Extensions on Type 4 Natural Hair

    How to Rock Clip-in Extensions on Type 4 Natural Hair

    Clip in extensions are taking the natural hair community by storm. It offers versatility, endless styling options, extra length and volume in minutes. It’s no wonder they’re so popular! Compared to 10 years ago, there are so many options on the market for Type 4 Naturalistas. The textures range from kinky, coily and curly which means there’s a texture to match every hair type regardless of if you have Type 4A, 4B or 4C hair. If you’re looking for overnight volume or length then clip-in extensions will give you that short term look. So what are you waiting for! Give clip in extensions a try – you’ll be surprised about how much you’ll love it. 

    Keep reading for a breakdown of everything you need to know about clip-in extensions and how to rock them with your type 4 hair. If you’re interested in learning more about the best extensions for natural hair, click here

    How to pick clip-in extensions that match your natural hair texture?

    Picking the right clip in extensions for natural hair all comes down to the hair texture and ensuring it matches your natural coils and curls. The ones that match Type 4 hair usually come in 3 textures. 

    1. Kinky 

    Kinky is suitable for 4C & 4B hair, the texture mimics the z-pattern of 4C hair seamlessly and it’s the kinkiest texture of all the types. You can either choose kinky if you want to style your hair in its natural curl pattern or a kinky straight if you prefer to wear your hair stretched. Regardless of which one you choose, if you purchase human hair then you’ll be able to straighten the extensions. 

    2. Coily

    Coily is suitable for 4A & 4B naturals. 4C naturals can also wear this but may need to manipulate their natural hair with a twist out or braid out for a seamless blend. The coily texture tends to be tight ringlet curls mimicking an s-pattern. Although 4B hair has a z-curl pattern, it also works very well with the coily texture.

    3. Curly 

    Curly is suitable for type 3 naturals due to the looser curl pattern. If you’re a 3A or 3B natural then this is the curl pattern for you. The curly texture has a springy ringlet pattern also mimicking the s-pattern but a lot looser in comparison to the coily texture. It has medium coarseness and not as tight as the kinky and coily textures. 

    TIP – If you prefer to wear your hair slightly looser and regularly use techniques like braid outs, twist outs and shingling method to manipulate your curl pattern then you can try a texture one up from yours. For example, if you’re a 4C natural, purchase a coily curl texture instead of kinky.

    Image Source : Istock by Getty Images

    How to install clip in extensions?

    Clip ins are easy to use which is why people love it so much. You can install them in less than 20 mins by yourself without having to go to a hairstylist. Here are 2 main techniques you can use to install your hair extensions. 

    Method 1 – Hair Left Out 

    Step 1 – Prep your clip-in extensions and your natural hair

    Step 2 –  Section your hair starting from the nape of your neck. It should be a straight line across from ear to ear and roughly an 1 – 2 inches from the nape.

    Step 3 – Apply clips to parted section and secure them in place 

    Step 4 – Part another section of your hair (roughly 1 – 2 inches).Your hair should lay on top of the clips you placed previously covering the tracks.

    Step 5 – Apply the next set of clips and secure them in place

    Step 6 – Keep repeating until you get to the top of your hair 

    Step 7 – Blend your leave out and voila! Your good to go.

    clip in extensions natural hair
    Image Source : GIPHY

    Method 2 – Cornrows or Twists 

    Step 1 – Section your hair as you would a sew in leaving out the perimeter and parting

    Step 2 – Cornrow or flat twist the remaining sections 

    Step 3 – Tuck in the ends or booby pin them upwards. Just make sure they lay flat so it’s not bulky 

    Step 4 – Apply clips starting from nape of your neck until you reach the top

    Step 5 – Blend your leave out and perimeter of your hair with the clip ins 

    clip in extensions natural hair
    Image Source : GIPHY

    Additional TIP’s

    • Wash clip in extensions prior to installing and prep hair with a curling cream or mousse
    • Prior to installation, get familiar with your clip-ins. The sizes vary so measure them against your hair so you know what order to clip them into your natural hair. 
    • Make sure your hair is fully detangled prior to installation to minimise matting 
    • If the clips feel uncomfortable, unclip them and re-clip them in another place 
    • Treat the clip-in extensions like your natural hair. Take care of them as you would your own hair so they last longer
    • For additional blending, you can twist a small piece of your natural hair with the clip-ins for a seamless look.

    How do you blend clip in extensions with real hair?

    There are many techniques and methods to blend Type 4 natural hair with clip in extensions. It’s a bit of trial and error to figure out what option works best for your hair. Here are the most popular methods which will give you a seamless look.

    1. Shingling Method :

    This is by far my favourite method!. It works best with minimal leave out and makes it easy for your natural hair to blend with the clip in extensions. As the method utilises LOC or LCO, it also helps to ensure your coils and curls are moisturised whilst rocking your clip ins. Work with damp hair and apply your leave in conditioner followed by your curl cream throughout your hair. Work section by section, take a small piece of hair and stretch it whilst twirling it around your fingers. Repeat until you get through all your leave out and then let it air dry. For that extra definition, apply a hair gel after you’ve applied your hair cream. 

    2. Twist out :

    You can either do a 2 strand or 3 strand twist to mimic the curl pattern of the hair extensions. When you unravel your twists, you’ll end up with a tight spiral or ringlet curl. This helps all the textures blend into one. We recommend a twist out for coily or curly extensions. TIP – make sure your twists aren’t too big to give you a tighter curl. You can also do a twist with the clip ins installed to help with blending.

    3. Braid out :

    Braid outs are similar to twists outs, the curl definition tends to be more wave-like enhancing your curl pattern and giving you that extra definition. This is great for all the clip in extension textures including kinky, coily or curly. You can also do a braid out with the clip in-extensions installed to ensure the texture matches your natural hair seamlessly. 

    4. No Leave Out Method :

    This has become increasingly popular over the last couple of years and requires no leave out so less time blending. Your hair will be braided or twisted away making this a protective style. You’ll need to have 2 anchor braids for your parting as you’ll be crocheting the hair for it to blend. Don’t worry, if you haven’t crochet before – it’s pretty simple to do. You’ll just need to get used to the tool and you’ll be fine. 

    How long can you keep in clip in hair extensions?

    You can usually keep in your clip in extensions in your hair for up to 7 days without having to reinstall them. It really depends on the method you choose to use to install them. For instance, if you hair is braided underneath then they’ll last slightly longer. If the clips are uncomfortable to sleep in, there is no harm taking them out before you go to bed and re-install them in the morning. The benefits of using clip-ins are they are quick and easy to apply so it shouldn’t take too long to re-apply in the mornings.  

    Some brands advice not to sleep in them but I’ve slept with my clip-ins many times without having any issues. Especially when I’m rocking bun styles or have cornrows underneath. If you do decide to sleep with them, make sure you wear a silk scarf and bonnet to protect your hair. When sleeping with clip-ins, use the pineapple method to preserve your curls which will make it easier to refresh in the morning.

    FAQ’s re; Clip In Extensions for Natural Hair 

    1: Why won’t my hair extensions blend?

    The main reason your clip in extensions aren’t blending with your natural hair is because the texture you purchased is completely different to your curl pattern. There’s no point purchasing a silky or body wave texture if you have afro textured hair. You’ll end up spend most of your time excessively straightening your hair which will eventually lead to heat damage. Always purchase a texture that closely matches your hair texture. There’s such a wide variety on the market that you should be able to find a texture that gives you a seamless blend.

    Another reason could be that you’re leaving out too much of your natural hair. If this is the case, you can twist or braid your hair and apply the clip ins on top to minimise how much of your hair is left out. This is my preferred method as it acts as a protective style.

    2: Can you wear your hair up with clip in extensions?

    Yes – you can wear your hair up in a ponytail or an updo style. The way you apply the clips will be slightly different in this scenario. There a couple of methods you can follow;

    Method 1 : Put your hair in a ponytail and braid whats loose into one big braid. Then clip the clip ins around the braid until you get to the top.Take a section of the clip ins and wrap it around the base of the ponytail and secure it with a bobby pin.

    Method 2 : Section the middle of your hair and put it in a ponytail. Then apply your clips in an upwards motion around the ponytail. Keep sectioning your hair as you would normally and continue applying the clips until they’re all secured. You should have a perimeter of leave out left. Make sure it’s enough to cover the clips and tracks and then place your hair in a ponytail. 

    The only downside of these methods is it works best for medium to long hair. If you have short hair, it could end up being bulky. So try a drawstring ponytail if you want a seamless look. You’ll still achieve the desired look and it’ll be a lot less fuss trying to cover the tracks.

    3: Do clip in extensions damage fine hair?

    Yes – clip ins can add further damage to fine hair if you wear them too often. Damaged hair is more fragile and the clips can rub against your hair causing tension and friction. If you have damaged hair then it’s best to opt for a method where your hair is braided or flat twisted underneath the clips and have minimal leave out. This way your hair is protected from any tension and pulling on your natural hair.

    4: How do I keep my clip in extensions from slipping?

    The clips are designed to stay in place when attached, however, you can experience them slipping when you run your hands through your hair if they’re not secured properly. Here are some steps to follow to minimise them from slipping;

    1. Ensure your clips are secured before installing the next set
    2. Minimise the use oils on your hair and hands when applying 
    3. Braid, twist or cornrow your natural hair before installing your clip-ins. This creates a base to help your clips stay in place
    4. Don’t be heavy handed when styling – you can always prep your clip in extensions before installation

    5: Why do my clip in hair extensions keep matting?

    The main two reasons your clip ins are matting. The first one is the quality of your hair extensions, cheaper isn’t always the best option when choosing your clip-ins. It’s always best to purchase from a brand who are known for their quality. Always do your research beforehand, read reviews and see what their customers have to say about the brand.

    The second reason is you’re not detangling your clip-ins thoroughly and adopting a hair care routine. Type 4 Natural hair is prone to tangling due to the texture, so any hair extensions that mimic our natural hair is likely to have the same effect. Always detangle your clip-ins with care, the same way you would with your own natural hair. The products you choose to maintain and style them are also key. 

    Final Thoughts

    Clip-in extensions are a personal favourite. I’ve been rocking them for years and absolutely love the versatility and the extra volume/length it adds to my different hairstyles. I love the fact you can’t tell if it’s your hair or not. It’s easy to apply and effortless to use for naturals who don’t have time to go to a hairstylist very often. 

    Our key tips will be to purchase quality hair extensions and create a natural hair care routine so they last a long time. Also, highly recommend braiding your hair underneath prior to installation so it doubles up as a protective style.

    Do you wear clip-in extensions with your natural hair? What has your experience been? Are there any brands you’ll recommend for fellow Naturalista’s? 

    Leave a comment and share your experience. We’d love to hear your thoughts. 

  • Mini Twists! The Ultimate Style for Retention & Hair Growth

    Mini Twists! The Ultimate Style for Retention & Hair Growth

    Mini Twists have become more and more popular over the last couple of months. If you’re on social media platforms such as TikTok and Instagram, you’ll see countless videos of why Natural Hair Girlies are loving this style. The term mini twists has generated millions of views on Tiktok, 27.4 mill to be exact and still climbing. Apart from the fact that it’s a great protective style. Naturalistas are boasting about the amount of hair growth and length they’re able to retain whilst rocking mini twists. So if you’re on the market for a new protective style that helps you achieve your natural hair growth goals, then mini twists might be the style for you! It’s easy to maintain and has multiple styling options.

    We’ll cover everything you need to know to help you figure out if this is a hairstyle you should incorporate it into your natural hair routine more regularly. Keep reading to learn more!

    Are Mini Twists Good For Natural Hair?

    In a nutshell YES! Mini Twists are GREAT for natural hair especially Type 4 Naturalistas. They’re a protective style which minimises daily manipulation and helps you hold onto your new hair growth whilst retaining length. The twists are created by dividing your hair into small sections and then wrapping/rotating the strands of your hair across each other from root to tip until the twists are formed. The style can be done on any length or texture with or without the use of natural hair extensions.

    Do Mini Twists Contribute To Hair Growth?

    Twists alone can’t grow your hair as there are many factors that affect how quickly your hair grows such as genetics, scalp health, hair health etc. However, Twists can contribute to your hair’s growth ensuring your holding onto that new growth and retaining as much length as possible whilst wearing them. Here are 5 ways Mini Twists contribute to your hair growth.

    1. Protected ends : Your ends are protected in this style minimising wear and tear that comes with daily styling. 
    2. Low tension Style : It’s a low tension style which reduces stress on your hairline and scalp keeping your hair in a healthy state which in return promotes hair growth 
    3. Prevents single strand knots : As your hair is protected and tucked away, it reduces any excessive shedding and breakage that may come with daily manipulation and over styling.
    4. Prevents breakage : Keeping your hair in a protective style can help prevent excess breakage
    5. Helps retain moisture : you’ll be moisturising your twists regularly and oiling your scalp to prevent dryness. This will strengthen your hair strands and improve your hair’s elasticity.

    Take a look Shaneal’s hair growth comparison pics whilst wearing mini twists. Her instagram page @curlcodeblack documents her hair growth journey and you’ll notice mini twists are a regular part of her protective styling routine.

    Aside from mini twists promoting hair growth, there are also other benefits to rocking this style. Such as,

    • Easy to maintain 
    • Versatile Styling Options 
    • Easy removal process 
    • Reduces tangles 
    • Keeps scalp accessible 
    • Doubles up as a twist out after removal

    How to do Mini twists?

    Mini Twists are easy to do and are an inexpensive hairstyle which can be done by yourself as opposed to going to a hairstylist. All you need is a couple of hours, some patience and remember practice makes perfect. They may not look exactly how you envisioned the first time round but you’ll get better at it the more you do it. If you’re thinking about using hair extensions then it might be worth getting a friend to help or watching a tutorial to understand how to attach the extensions to your natural hair. 

    Before we get started on how to install your mini twists. You’ll need the following tools;

    • Wash day products (Shampoo, Conditioner, Leave in)
    • Detangling Brush 
    • Rat Tail comb 
    • Hair Clips/Separators 
    • A Twisting Butter or Cream 
    • Gel (Optional) 

    Step by Step Guide for Installing Mini Twists 

    Step 1 – Start off with freshly cleansed hair: 

    Follow your normal wash day routine. We recommend doing a deep conditioning treatment prior to getting any protective style to ensure the moisture from the product has fully penetrated through your hair strands. 

    Step 2 – Moisturise your hair and detangle thoroughly:

    Apply your leave-in conditioner on damp hair and work through from root to tip. Finger detangle once product has been applied and follow up with a detangling brush to ensure product has been worked through all your hair strands whilst making sure your hair is fully detangled.

    Step 3 – Section hair into 4 Parts:

    You’ll be working in sections for this style, you’ll start with big sections and each section will get smaller as you go along. Use your hair clips to keep the hair in their allocated sections. You can also twist or braid each section if you prefer.

    Step 4 – Work on 1 section at a time and split into smaller parts:

    Use a rat tail comb to split the section into smaller parts of 1 – 2 inches depending on the size you’re trying to achieve. Apply your twisting butter or cream to the parted section to prep for twisting

    Step 5 – Start twisting:

    Separate the part you created into 2 equal parts and begin to twist the hair around each other in a rope like motion from root to tip. As you get towards the ends, you may need to apply more cream or butter if it feels dry and then twirl the ends with your fingers once the twist is complete.

    Step 6 – Repeat:

    Continue step 5 until you’ve completed your whole head of hair. TIP – It’s okay to take a break in between sections. The key is to be patient and not rush the process so your twists come out equally. 

    Step 7 – Seal ends with an oil:

    Seal your ends with a lightweight oil such as jojoba, grapeseed or almond oil to lock in moisture. 

    NOTE: If you’re interested in doing the 3 strand twists, the process is pretty much the same. The difference is you’ll be splitting the parts into 3 sections and twist around each other. As a beginner, it’s best to stick to 2 strand twists until you’ve got the hang of things.

    How long should I keep my mini twists?

    Your twists have now been successfully installed so you’re probably wondering how long you should keep them in. The recommendation is anything from 4 – 8 weeks. Like any protective style, you’ll need to follow a maintenance routine to keep your scalp healthy to aid hair growth whilst wearing your mini twists. The great thing about mini twists is they’re easy to maintain and practical so your wash day doesn’t take as long as it normally does. One thing to bear in mind is that twists can loc your hair if they’re not properly maintained so make sure to create a maintenance routine you can stick to and pay attention to your twists especially at the roots if you decide to wear them for slightly longer. 

    How should I maintain my mini twists for hair growth?

    Here are some things you can incorporate into your twist hair growth routine. 

    1. Keep on top of wash days 

    To keep your scalp healthy and minimise build up, you’ll want to stick to regular cleansing of your hair. To achieve hair growth whilst wearing your mini twists, you need to keep your scalp clean so it can thrive. It’s also best to wash your hair in sections to minimise frizz and stop the twists from rubbing against each other. You can always apply a mousse once you’ve finished to help with the frizz. Also, don’t forget to use a conditioner and apply a leave-in once you’ve finished shampooing. 

    2. Sleep with a silk or satin scarf and or bonnet

    This is a must do if you want to retain moisture and minimise frizz. It’ll keep your hair neat and help you maintain your twists for longer. You can also sleep with a silk or satin pillowcase for that extra protection. 

    3. Avoid wearing your twists down all the time

    Luckily, there are endless styling options when wearing this style. You’ll want to avoid wearing your hair down all the time so it doesn’t rub against your clothing. Hair rubbing against clothes can cause split ends and breakage. Although your hair is protected in twists, it’s worth being mindful of this especially if you wear alot of cotton. Cotton dries out hair and makes it harder for it to retain moisture. 

    4. Moisturise and seal your hair regularly

    Afro textured hair thrives on moisture so make sure you do this 2 – 3  times a week if you want to achieve optimal growth and retain length whilst wearing your mini twists. You can mix your water with a leave-in conditioner and spritz on your hair. Then follow up with a lightweight oil to seal in the moisture

    5. Apply hair growth oil 

    If hair growth is the main reason you’re interested in trying this style, then there’s no harm using a hair growth oil. Although these oils aren’t solely responsible for growing your hair. It can help it grow a little bit faster. Just be careful not to be heavy handed when applying to avoid product build up. Remember, to massage the oil into your scalp to improve blood circulation in the area.

    How do you refresh mini twists?

    Your twists won’t need to be refreshed very often if you’re keeping up with your maintenance routine. However, if you feel your twists are unravelling and not as neat as you would like. You can always re-do the twists around your hairline and nape of your neck to give it a fresher look. Just be careful when unravelling your twists as you don’t want to tug or pull on it. Apply an oil to the twists and unravel from tip to roots. Once unravelled, spritz your hair with water and detangle. We find finger detangling first and then following up with your detangling tool of choice is the best way to detangle without tugging or pulling on your hair. 

    6 Ways to Style Mini Twists

    You won’t be bored when wearing mini twists, there are several styling options which makes this style more fun to wear. We’ve featured some of our favourite Naturalista’s for styling inspiration.  

    1. Bun and Ponytail styles

    Mini Twists Hairstyle

    Credit : @curlcodeblack

    2. Tribal Cornrows with Mini Twists 

    Credit : @opaglamz

    3. Side Part Bun

    Credit : @type4.hair

    4. Claw Clip 

    Mini Twists with Claw Clip

    Credit : @the.natural.breona

    5. Mini Twists with Curly ends

    Mini Twists with Curly Ends

    Credit : @bohosoulsalon (Stylist) @nyreephotography (Photographer) @silk_sachet (Model)

    6. Space Buns

    Mini Twist Hairstyle (Space Buns)

    Credit : @yolandaas

    * We’ve linked the instagram pages of all the Naturalistas featured. Feel free to check out their instagram pages for more natural hair inspo and give them a follow!

    Mini Twist FAQ’s 

    1: Can mini twists turn into locs/dreads?

    This isn’t something you need to worry about if you’re wearing the style for a short period of time. Although, two strand twists are known to be a loc’ing method. They only begin to loc when you keep them in for long periods. The locs tend to form from 6 – 24 months and there is a process you need to follow to keep the twists from unravelling to achieve dreadlocks. If you’re interested in using the method to to start your loc or dreads journey then it’s best to go to a stylist who specialises in this to help you achieve your desired look. 

    2: Should you put mini twists in wet or dry hair?

    Installing twists on wet or dry hair is a personal preference. There isn’t a right or wrong way! Both have their pros and cons depending on what look you’re trying to achieve. If you’re a beginner, the recommendation is to do it on dry hair. Dry hair is easier to work with and will make parting a lot easier. Whilst wet hair is more fragile and your hair is likely to get dry half way through completing the twists.

    For the best of both worlds, we recommend working on dry hair to make parting and sectioning easier. You can then spritz each parted section with water prior to applying your twisting cream or butter. Working on damp hair will help your product penetrate through your hair strands. It’ll also give your twists a tighter hold and your ends will have a slight curl. Do what works best for you, and if you’re in doubt watch a couple youtube tutorials to help you decide.

    3: How long does it take to get mini twists?

    Mini Twists can take anything from 3 hours to 6 hours depending on your hairs length and density. The size of your twists will also have a part to play in timings. If it’s your first time doing them by yourself then it’s best to allocate a full day. You’re likely to take breaks in between from your arms hurting and if you’re not used to parting your hair it’ll take you a little longer to get used to. Feel free to get a friend to help to speed up the process or you can go to a hairstylist if you want to save some time. 

    Final Thoughts

    Mini Twists are a great protective style to help you achieve hair growth and retain length. Like any protective style, it’s important to have a maintenance routine to keep your scalp and hair healthy. It’s easy to maintain without adding any tension to your scalp which is a plus when trying to grow out your hair. Plus, there are so many styling options which makes it a fun style. We can see why mini twists has grown in popularity over the last couple of years.

    We’re hoping you’ve taken some inspiration from the Naturalistas featured and want to take this opportunity to thank them for letting us share their pictures in this article.

    Have you tried mini twists before? What has your experience been like using mini twists to achieve hair growth?