Protective Hairstyle 101: Are They Really Protecting Your Hair?

Protective hairstyles are a cornerstone of the natural hair community. They offer the flexibility to experiment with different looks while keeping your kinks, curls and coils intact. However, despite the popularity of styles like braids, twists, and cornrows, many women still experience breakage and hair loss when wearing these styles.

Are you dealing with breakage or excessive shedding with protective styles? Do you notice significant hair loss and pulling along your hairline? Or perhaps you constantly wear protective hairstyles but haven’t seen any progress in your hair growth journey. 

If you’re facing these problems, it’s time to reconsider: “Is your protective hairstyle really protecting your hair or harming it?” While these styles are beloved in the natural hair community, many women still encounter issues. So what’s going wrong? Why are so many women having problems despite the intended benefits?

In this post, we’ll delve into the benefits and drawbacks of protective hairstyles, uncover the reasons behind these issues, and offer tips to ensure your hair is truly protected.

Benefits of wearing Protective Hairstyles

The term protective hairstyle clearly explains the benefit of wearing these styles. Their purpose is to protect your natural hair, keeping it healthy and help you retain length. Protecting your hair  from any potential damage caused by daily styling, heat, tangling and breakage. Many women in the natural hair community swear by the improvements they’ve seen while rocking these styles. And although, some women haven’t had the best experience. Protective hairstyles can support you maintain healthy hair if done correctly. 

Here are 5 top benefits of rocking these styles.

1. Minimising risk of damage to your hair 

As your hair is tucked away, it reduces the risk of over manipulation that comes with daily styling. The type 4 curl pattern is fragile and can snag easily when combing, detangling or styling your hair. The fact you’ll be doing this less frequently while wearing protective hairstyles helps eradicate this and minimises breakage. Plus, you won’t be using styling tools such as heat as regularly when wearing these styles.

2. Supports with length retention 

In order to reach your length retention goals. It’s best to leave your hair alone! I know it sounds cliche but the less time your hands are spent styling or parting your hair the better it is for you to hold onto that length you worked so hard on achieving. 

3. Low Maintenance

You’ll be able to wake up and go! Protective hairstyles require minimal effort when styling your hair daily. They’re easy to maintain and typically last 6 – 8 weeks. With the right  maintenance you can stretch them for up to 12 weeks. Saving time in the morning when getting ready. This is a big PRO for many Naturalistas! 

4. Offers Flexibility of styling 

Naturalistas are blessed with versatility of styling options bearing in mind you can wear your hair straight, coily/curly or in it’s shrunken state. A protective hairstyle will increase your ability to wear these styles without causing damage to your hair. The fact you’re not constantly altering your coil pattern keeps the hair strands strong and healthy. 

5. Helps you get through that awkward length stage 

If you’re newly natural going through that awkward TWA stage or not happy with your current length. Wearing a protective hairstyle will help you get through that phase.

Drawbacks of Protective Hairstyles

Although protective styles have many benefits – it also comes with its cons. Here are 4 main drawbacks of wearing a protective hairstyle.

1. Wearing them constantly could lead to excess shedding

Have you heard the term too much of anything isn’t good for you? Well, the same logic applies to protective styles. As much as they’re great for your hair – if you wear the same hairstyle all the time without breaks in between then you’re not giving your hair enough time to recover. Putting constant tension on your hair strands and scalp eventually leads to hair loss.

2. What you class as a protective hairstyle isn’t protecting your hair strands

Another drawback is that what you consider as a protective style isn’t actually a protective hairstyle. Let’s delve into the definition of “what is a protective hairstyle?” to help understand what we mean. A protective hairstyle means your hair is fully tucked up and away and your ends are completely hidden. So if you’re rocking a style wear a big chunk of your hair isn’t tucked away then that isn’t a protective style.

For example : Although some sew-ins are classed as a protective style, if you have a lot of leave out then your hair isn’t fully protected. This is because you’ll be manipulating your hair regularly to make sure it blends with your hair. Another example of this is mermaid braids – if the ends of your hair are not fully braided and are left out with the braiding hair then your ends are not protected.

3. Tight protective hairstyles lead to hair loss and alopecia

Thirdly, tight styles and pulling along the hairline can lead to hair loss and alopecia. If you’re not careful, the problem will become irreversible leading to long term damage. This is why it’s important to speak up at your appointments if you feel your hair is too tight. Many people believe braiding the hair tight will make your hairstyle last longer but it’s actually leading to damage. When wearing protective styles – you should always make sure they’re not tight or pulling on your edges. Remember, Type 4 hair is fine and fragile. Protective hairstyles can add weight to your already fine hair especially when adding braiding hair and extensions. 

4. If you don’t care for your hair while wearing them then you’ll experience matting

Certain protective styles can lead to matting if worn for extended periods of times. Protective hairstyles such as braids and twists can cause your hair to matt as the strands become tangled within the style. This is why it’s important to not wear your style for more than 8 weeks at a time. 12 weeks max if you have a good maintenance routine. When removing the style, use a leave-in conditioner or detangler with a great slip to make the process easier and stop you from pulling out any of your hair strands.

Now despite the drawbacks, this doesn’t mean protective styles don’t work. It’s just about being aware of the best protective styles to achieve your goals and following the right prep and maintenance techniques.

Best protective hairstyle for hair growth 

Here are the best protective hairstyles if you’re trying to achieve length.

1. Cornrows 

This is the best protective hairstyle as your hair is fully protected while wearing the style. The great thing about cornrows is they can be worn in a multitude of ways such as using braiding hair or using your own natural hair. They may not last as long as braids because they get rough easily but a fantastic option for women keen on retaining length. 

Flat twists are a great alternative to cornrows and keep your hair protected in a similar way without having to use braiding hair. 

2. Crochet braids

Another great protective style for holding onto your hair growth. With this style, your hair is fully protected and there is no need to manipulate your hair because it’s completely tucked away. You can experiment with curly or straight extensions offering you a versatility of styling options. 

3. Sew ins with minimal leave out 

Sew-ins have a mixed feedback but if installed correctly then you shouldn’t have any problems. The key is to have minimal leave-out or apply a closure. Get your stylist to install a net over your cornrows to help keep them intact and also to minimise any tension on your hair from the sewing of the wefts. Make sure you have at least 5 inches of hair to cover your leave out so you’re not manipulating it daily. Wearing extensions that match your natural hair pattern is a MUST if you don’t want to use heat daily so opt for kinky straight or kinky curly bundles. Lastly, make sure your sew in isn’t too tight! That’s the number one cause of traction alopecia which you’ll want to eradicate when wearing sew-ins.

4. Medium sized braids

There are many ways to rock braids such as fulani/tribal, french curl, knotless, boho and mermaid braids. But medium sized knotless or box braids are the best if you’re trying to make the most of your hair growth. It minimises any pulling or tension when styling your hair into ponytails or buns and isn’t too heavy on your scalp. Some braid styles mermaid braids aren’t actually protective if the ends of your hair aren’t completely braided. So bear that in mind when trying out new braid styles.

5. Mini Twists 

Mini twists are a perfect protective hairstyle which are low maintenance but also makes it easy to wash your hair and keep it hydrated. The twists are lightweight making it minimal risk for pulling and tugging along your hairline. They’re versatile and can be worn in buns, ponytails, half up half down styles etc. One thing to be weary of is twists can matt easily when washing your and can twist around each other. So don’t keep them in longer than 8 weeks at time. Remove carefully and finger detangle with a product with a lot of slip.

6. Glueless Wigs 

Wigs are great as you’re able to take them down daily. If you prefer frontals then you want to be careful of the product and glue use along the hairline as this can cause hairloss around your edges and irritation. If hair growth is you main goal for wearing a protective style then opt for a glueless wig. You can always use mousse and sprtiz on the closure to lay it down. Aside from that, there are several other options available that will cause no damage to your hairline such as headband wigs, u part wigs, half wigs and v part wigs.

How to Properly care for your hair while wearing a Protective Hairstyle

Here are our top tips for caring for your natural hair when wearing a protective hairstyle.

• Prep your hair prior to installing your new style
• Have a maintenance routine and stick to it!
• Hydrate your hair regularly : Spritz with hydrating mist and seal with an oil to keep your hair moisturised 
• Sleep with a silk scarf or silk bonnet 
• Wear your style for a maximum of 8 weeks to eliminate matting 
• Give your hair a break in between styles – ideally 2 weeks
• SPEAK UP at your hair appointments : If your hair feels too tight or pulling on your hairline then let your stylist know straight away instead of dealing with the problem overnight.

FAQ’s re; Protective Hairstyle

1: Do protective hairstyles help your hair grow?

Protective styles don’t grow your hair but help with retaining length and holding onto hair that would have been lost from daily styling and over manipulation. When removing the hairstyle, you’re likely to see a lot of shed hair. But don’t panic! Your hair sheds up to 100 hairs per day so just view it as trapped dead hair that doesn’t have anywhere to go. This doesn’t mean you shouldn’t be careful and patient when removing the style. Saturate your hands with oils to make the loosening process easier and finger detangle first before following up with a wide tooth comb.

2: How long should you let your hair breathe between protective styles?

Ideally 2 weeks. Give your hair time to breathe before following up with your next protective style. It might be worth alternating styles too if you find certain parts of your hair weaker than others. The same applies for bun and ponytail styles. Always alternate your parting so you’re not putting too much tension on one side. 

3: What is the longest lasting protective hairstyle?

Braids are the longest lasting style as they tend to last 8 to 12 weeks. Other styles such as crochet braids or sew-ins are a close second as they last up to 8 weeks. If you’re not a fan of protective styles which includes the use of added hair then mini twists and flat twists are a great option. If you’re a fan of wigs than that another win win! You can get your hair cornrowed underneath and leave them in for up to 6 weeks at a time. 

4: What protective style is the least damaging?

Cornrow based styles such as crochet braids, cornrows with or without braiding hair are the best protective hairstyle to minimise damage. Your hair is completely tucked away and the hair used is quite light and doesn’t weigh down your hair. Sew-ins with minimal leave out or closure is also a safe style due to the cornrow base. If you’re a fan of braids then stick to medium sized braids that aren’t too tight so it doesn’t pull on your hairline.

5: How to prep hair for a protective style?

Your hair should be freshly washed and fully hydrated before installing any protective style. Here are some steps to follow

1. Use a clarifying shampoo to strip any dirt or build up. Then follow up with a moisturising/hydrating shampoo
2. Apply a moisturising treatment for at least 30 mins, using heat or steam to help the product penetrate through. Read or guide for Deep Conditioning Type 4 hair for product recommendations.
3. Once rinsed out, apply a leave-in conditioner (always do this in sections of 4 to ensure the product is equally distributed).
4. Seal your ends with an oil to help keep the moisture locked into your strands. Read our guide for on sealing vs moisturizing oils to know what products to use.
5. Airdry or blow dry as you desire

BONUS TIP : If you’re using braiding hair or extensions then wash the hair prior to installation to remove any chemicals or dirt that may cause irritation to your scalp You can also do an apple cider vinegar rinse. 

FINAL THOUGHTS

Understanding the pros and cons of your protective hairstyle is crucial for maintaining healthy natural hair. Opt for styles that fully protect your hair or has minimal leave-out. Before installation, prep your hair thoroughly and ensure it’s well moisturised before sealing with an oil.

Regularly clarify and hydrate your scalp to promote cleanliness and keep your hair healthy. Creating a clean environment minimises product buildup, allowing your hair to thrive.

What’s your experience with protective styles? Share your tips and thoughts in the comments!