Tag: Protective Hairstyles

  • Protective Hairstyle 101: Are They Really Protecting Your Hair?

    Protective Hairstyle 101: Are They Really Protecting Your Hair?

    Protective hairstyles are a cornerstone of the natural hair community. They offer the flexibility to experiment with different looks while keeping your kinks, curls and coils intact. However, despite the popularity of styles like braids, twists, and cornrows, many women still experience breakage and hair loss when wearing these styles.

    Are you dealing with breakage or excessive shedding with protective styles? Do you notice significant hair loss and pulling along your hairline? Or perhaps you constantly wear protective hairstyles but haven’t seen any progress in your hair growth journey. 

    If you’re facing these problems, it’s time to reconsider: “Is your protective hairstyle really protecting your hair or harming it?” While these styles are beloved in the natural hair community, many women still encounter issues. So what’s going wrong? Why are so many women having problems despite the intended benefits?

    In this post, we’ll delve into the benefits and drawbacks of protective hairstyles, uncover the reasons behind these issues, and offer tips to ensure your hair is truly protected.

    Benefits of wearing Protective Hairstyles

    The term protective hairstyle clearly explains the benefit of wearing these styles. Their purpose is to protect your natural hair, keeping it healthy and help you retain length. Protecting your hair  from any potential damage caused by daily styling, heat, tangling and breakage. Many women in the natural hair community swear by the improvements they’ve seen while rocking these styles. And although, some women haven’t had the best experience. Protective hairstyles can support you maintain healthy hair if done correctly. 

    Here are 5 top benefits of rocking these styles.

    1. Minimising risk of damage to your hair 

    As your hair is tucked away, it reduces the risk of over manipulation that comes with daily styling. The type 4 curl pattern is fragile and can snag easily when combing, detangling or styling your hair. The fact you’ll be doing this less frequently while wearing protective hairstyles helps eradicate this and minimises breakage. Plus, you won’t be using styling tools such as heat as regularly when wearing these styles.

    2. Supports with length retention 

    In order to reach your length retention goals. It’s best to leave your hair alone! I know it sounds cliche but the less time your hands are spent styling or parting your hair the better it is for you to hold onto that length you worked so hard on achieving. 

    3. Low Maintenance

    You’ll be able to wake up and go! Protective hairstyles require minimal effort when styling your hair daily. They’re easy to maintain and typically last 6 – 8 weeks. With the right  maintenance you can stretch them for up to 12 weeks. Saving time in the morning when getting ready. This is a big PRO for many Naturalistas! 

    4. Offers Flexibility of styling 

    Naturalistas are blessed with versatility of styling options bearing in mind you can wear your hair straight, coily/curly or in it’s shrunken state. A protective hairstyle will increase your ability to wear these styles without causing damage to your hair. The fact you’re not constantly altering your coil pattern keeps the hair strands strong and healthy. 

    5. Helps you get through that awkward length stage 

    If you’re newly natural going through that awkward TWA stage or not happy with your current length. Wearing a protective hairstyle will help you get through that phase.

    Drawbacks of Protective Hairstyles

    Although protective styles have many benefits – it also comes with its cons. Here are 4 main drawbacks of wearing a protective hairstyle.

    1. Wearing them constantly could lead to excess shedding

    Have you heard the term too much of anything isn’t good for you? Well, the same logic applies to protective styles. As much as they’re great for your hair – if you wear the same hairstyle all the time without breaks in between then you’re not giving your hair enough time to recover. Putting constant tension on your hair strands and scalp eventually leads to hair loss.

    2. What you class as a protective hairstyle isn’t protecting your hair strands

    Another drawback is that what you consider as a protective style isn’t actually a protective hairstyle. Let’s delve into the definition of “what is a protective hairstyle?” to help understand what we mean. A protective hairstyle means your hair is fully tucked up and away and your ends are completely hidden. So if you’re rocking a style wear a big chunk of your hair isn’t tucked away then that isn’t a protective style.

    For example : Although some sew-ins are classed as a protective style, if you have a lot of leave out then your hair isn’t fully protected. This is because you’ll be manipulating your hair regularly to make sure it blends with your hair. Another example of this is mermaid braids – if the ends of your hair are not fully braided and are left out with the braiding hair then your ends are not protected.

    3. Tight protective hairstyles lead to hair loss and alopecia

    Thirdly, tight styles and pulling along the hairline can lead to hair loss and alopecia. If you’re not careful, the problem will become irreversible leading to long term damage. This is why it’s important to speak up at your appointments if you feel your hair is too tight. Many people believe braiding the hair tight will make your hairstyle last longer but it’s actually leading to damage. When wearing protective styles – you should always make sure they’re not tight or pulling on your edges. Remember, Type 4 hair is fine and fragile. Protective hairstyles can add weight to your already fine hair especially when adding braiding hair and extensions. 

    4. If you don’t care for your hair while wearing them then you’ll experience matting

    Certain protective styles can lead to matting if worn for extended periods of times. Protective hairstyles such as braids and twists can cause your hair to matt as the strands become tangled within the style. This is why it’s important to not wear your style for more than 8 weeks at a time. 12 weeks max if you have a good maintenance routine. When removing the style, use a leave-in conditioner or detangler with a great slip to make the process easier and stop you from pulling out any of your hair strands.

    Now despite the drawbacks, this doesn’t mean protective styles don’t work. It’s just about being aware of the best protective styles to achieve your goals and following the right prep and maintenance techniques.

    Best protective hairstyle for hair growth 

    protective hairstyles / protective styles

    Here are the best protective hairstyles if you’re trying to achieve length.

    1. Cornrows 

    This is the best protective hairstyle as your hair is fully protected while wearing the style. The great thing about cornrows is they can be worn in a multitude of ways such as using braiding hair or using your own natural hair. They may not last as long as braids because they get rough easily but a fantastic option for women keen on retaining length. 

    Flat twists are a great alternative to cornrows and keep your hair protected in a similar way without having to use braiding hair. 

    2. Crochet braids

    Another great protective style for holding onto your hair growth. With this style, your hair is fully protected and there is no need to manipulate your hair because it’s completely tucked away. You can experiment with curly or straight extensions offering you a versatility of styling options. 

    3. Sew ins with minimal leave out 

    Sew-ins have a mixed feedback but if installed correctly then you shouldn’t have any problems. The key is to have minimal leave-out or apply a closure. Get your stylist to install a net over your cornrows to help keep them intact and also to minimise any tension on your hair from the sewing of the wefts. Make sure you have at least 5 inches of hair to cover your leave out so you’re not manipulating it daily. Wearing extensions that match your natural hair pattern is a MUST if you don’t want to use heat daily so opt for kinky straight or kinky curly bundles. Lastly, make sure your sew in isn’t too tight! That’s the number one cause of traction alopecia which you’ll want to eradicate when wearing sew-ins.

    4. Medium sized braids

    There are many ways to rock braids such as fulani/tribal, french curl, knotless, boho and mermaid braids. But medium sized knotless or box braids are the best if you’re trying to make the most of your hair growth. It minimises any pulling or tension when styling your hair into ponytails or buns and isn’t too heavy on your scalp. Some braid styles mermaid braids aren’t actually protective if the ends of your hair aren’t completely braided. So bear that in mind when trying out new braid styles.

    5. Mini Twists 

    Mini twists are a perfect protective hairstyle which are low maintenance but also makes it easy to wash your hair and keep it hydrated. The twists are lightweight making it minimal risk for pulling and tugging along your hairline. They’re versatile and can be worn in buns, ponytails, half up half down styles etc. One thing to be weary of is twists can matt easily when washing your and can twist around each other. So don’t keep them in longer than 8 weeks at time. Remove carefully and finger detangle with a product with a lot of slip.

    6. Glueless Wigs 

    Wigs are great as you’re able to take them down daily. If you prefer frontals then you want to be careful of the product and glue use along the hairline as this can cause hairloss around your edges and irritation. If hair growth is you main goal for wearing a protective style then opt for a glueless wig. You can always use mousse and sprtiz on the closure to lay it down. Aside from that, there are several other options available that will cause no damage to your hairline such as headband wigs, u part wigs, half wigs and v part wigs.

    How to Properly care for your hair while wearing a Protective Hairstyle

    Here are our top tips for caring for your natural hair when wearing a protective hairstyle.

    • Prep your hair prior to installing your new style
    • Have a maintenance routine and stick to it!
    • Hydrate your hair regularly : Spritz with hydrating mist and seal with an oil to keep your hair moisturised 
    • Sleep with a silk scarf or silk bonnet 
    • Wear your style for a maximum of 8 weeks to eliminate matting 
    • Give your hair a break in between styles – ideally 2 weeks
    • SPEAK UP at your hair appointments : If your hair feels too tight or pulling on your hairline then let your stylist know straight away instead of dealing with the problem overnight.

    FAQ’s re; Protective Hairstyle

    1: Do protective hairstyles help your hair grow?

    Protective styles don’t grow your hair but help with retaining length and holding onto hair that would have been lost from daily styling and over manipulation. When removing the hairstyle, you’re likely to see a lot of shed hair. But don’t panic! Your hair sheds up to 100 hairs per day so just view it as trapped dead hair that doesn’t have anywhere to go. This doesn’t mean you shouldn’t be careful and patient when removing the style. Saturate your hands with oils to make the loosening process easier and finger detangle first before following up with a wide tooth comb.

    2: How long should you let your hair breathe between protective styles?

    Ideally 2 weeks. Give your hair time to breathe before following up with your next protective style. It might be worth alternating styles too if you find certain parts of your hair weaker than others. The same applies for bun and ponytail styles. Always alternate your parting so you’re not putting too much tension on one side. 

    3: What is the longest lasting protective hairstyle?

    Braids are the longest lasting style as they tend to last 8 to 12 weeks. Other styles such as crochet braids or sew-ins are a close second as they last up to 8 weeks. If you’re not a fan of protective styles which includes the use of added hair then mini twists and flat twists are a great option. If you’re a fan of wigs than that another win win! You can get your hair cornrowed underneath and leave them in for up to 6 weeks at a time. 

    4: What protective style is the least damaging?

    Cornrow based styles such as crochet braids, cornrows with or without braiding hair are the best protective hairstyle to minimise damage. Your hair is completely tucked away and the hair used is quite light and doesn’t weigh down your hair. Sew-ins with minimal leave out or closure is also a safe style due to the cornrow base. If you’re a fan of braids then stick to medium sized braids that aren’t too tight so it doesn’t pull on your hairline.

    5: How to prep hair for a protective style?

    Your hair should be freshly washed and fully hydrated before installing any protective style. Here are some steps to follow

    1. Use a clarifying shampoo to strip any dirt or build up. Then follow up with a moisturising/hydrating shampoo
    2. Apply a moisturising treatment for at least 30 mins, using heat or steam to help the product penetrate through. Read or guide for Deep Conditioning Type 4 hair for product recommendations.
    3. Once rinsed out, apply a leave-in conditioner (always do this in sections of 4 to ensure the product is equally distributed).
    4. Seal your ends with an oil to help keep the moisture locked into your strands. Read our guide for on sealing vs moisturizing oils to know what products to use.
    5. Airdry or blow dry as you desire

    BONUS TIP : If you’re using braiding hair or extensions then wash the hair prior to installation to remove any chemicals or dirt that may cause irritation to your scalp You can also do an apple cider vinegar rinse. 

    FINAL THOUGHTS

    Understanding the pros and cons of your protective hairstyle is crucial for maintaining healthy natural hair. Opt for styles that fully protect your hair or has minimal leave-out. Before installation, prep your hair thoroughly and ensure it’s well moisturised before sealing with an oil.

    Regularly clarify and hydrate your scalp to promote cleanliness and keep your hair healthy. Creating a clean environment minimises product buildup, allowing your hair to thrive.

    What’s your experience with protective styles? Share your tips and thoughts in the comments!

  • The truth about braids for hair growth & length retention

    The truth about braids for hair growth & length retention

    Braids are one of the most popular protective hairstyles for black women. They’re the perfect holiday hairstyle, last a long time, easy to style and keep your ends protected. Braids can have a positive impact on length retention and helps you make the most of your new growth. How? You may wonder! Well, your hands are kept out of your hair whilst wearing the style which minimises wear and tear that comes with daily styling. But with any protective style moderation is key! It’s also important to know how to maintain your natural hair whilst wearing braids to get the most out of your hair growth and minimise any breakage or excessive shedding when you finally decide to take them out.

    We’ll be giving you a run down on how braids can contribute to your hair growth goals. Plus TIP’s on what TO DO/ NOT DO to make the most of your length retention whilst wearing your braids. 

    Are braids good for length retention?

    Braids are a great way to retain length but to get the most out of your hair growth you need to ensure you maintain them effectively. The length, size and tightness of the braids all have a part to play. Here’s 3 ways braids contribute to length retention:

    • Less Manipulation – when wearing braids, you don’t have to deal with daily styling! Your hair is left alone giving it the opportunity to thrive without constantly touching it. Excessive styling of hair is known to contribute to shedding and breakage if not done with the right styling tools, being done too frequently or being heavy handed. It’s okay to leave your hair alone and let it breathe which is what braids offer you.
    • Minimal Detangling – Detangling is part and parcel of every Naturalista’s life. Type 4 hair is prone to tangling due to its tight curl pattern. When detangling, it’s all about detangling with care and using products with the right amount of slip to make the process easier. As your hair is tucked away in braids for at least 6 to 8 weeks – you’ll experience less hair loss from the detangling process.
    • Protected Ends – The ends of our hair is the oldest part which means it’s prone to breakage, split ends and knots. Keeping ends protected helps minimise split ends travelling up the hair shaft and can contribute to length retention because you’ll be snipping a minimal amount when it’s time for your trim.

    Can braids make your hair grow longer?

    The truth is braids does not make your hair grow. There is a big misconception regarding growth and retention when it comes to braids. Scientifically, hair starts from  “new cells forming in the hair bulb. Once the cells stick together and harden, the full strand of hair develops. They attach to the hair from below and gradually push up out of the skin”. 1There are various phases to the hair growth cycle known as the Anagen, Transitional and Resting Phase. The Anagen phase is also known as the growth phase. “At any point in time, about 90 percent of a person’s total amount of hair is in this growth phase.” So as long as new cells are continuously created in the hair bulb then your hair is likely to grow longer. Click here to learn more about the hair growth cycle.

    Now there are various things that can contribute to hair growth such as genetics, diet, lifestyle, hair maintenance routine etc. But braids alone can’t grow your hair. You’re likely to feel like your hair has grown quicker and longer faster because you can clearly see your new growth as your braids begin to grow out. The truth is the growth is just more visible because it’s more obvious compared to if you were wearing your hair in a bun or twist out everyday. Don’t let this discourage you from wearing braids because although it doesn’t contribute to growth. Braids help you retain length you wouldn’t have been able to hold onto if your hair wasn’t protected. 

    Braid bumps on scalp

    Is it healthy to put your hair in braids?

    We’ve all seen the horror stories that come with braids, especially when you’ve seen people experience thinning edges, alopecia or scalp irritation. But it’s important to note that wearing braids is healthy whether you decide to use your own natural hair or braiding hair to create your braids. Aside from it being a great protective style, wearing braids can add many benefits to your natural hair. Here are 5 ways braids can contribute to your hairs health:

    • Helps lock in moisture and hydration within the hair strands
    • Prevents split ends for natural wear and tear
    • Prevents breakage 
    • Protects hair whilst you sleep 
    • Low Maintenance 

    Are braids good for thinning hair?

    In a nutshell NO. If you’re hair is already fragile and thinning. Wearing braids could lead to additional damage. Braids are usually done with synthetic or human braiding hair. Although they’re not heavy when you feel them, you’ll be attaching the braiding hair to individual strands of your hair which will add tension to your hair follicles. If you’re not careful – you could end up with alopecia. 

    So what’s the option if you like wearing braids. Well, you might want to opt for something like crochet braids. In this style, your hair is cornrowed down and the braiding hair is crochet’d on top of the cornrows. The reason why this method works so well is because your natural hair is already braided down to your scalp. Leading to less pulling on tugging on your natural hair when styling. 

    Why am I losing so much hair after braiding?

    It’s normal for your hair to shed between 50 to 100 hairs a day. Once you’ve taken out your braids, it might feel like you’ve lost alot of hair but it’s most likely to be hair that shed and was trapped in between the braids. So don’t panic if you notice alot more hair falling out then you normally do. Now there’s a difference between shedding and breakage. I’d say it’s important to distinguish between the two to know if you should be panicking or not. A quick way to tell the difference between the two is shed hair tends to be the full length of your hair strand whereas breakage tends to be shorter and brittle strands. 

    Here are a few ways you can minimise excessive shedding and loss of healthy hair strands whilst removing your braids

    1. Take ur time :

    Don’t be in a rush when taking out your braids. Be prepared for it to take a couple of hours, you want to use the same amount of care at the beginning of the braid removal process as the last braid. You can rope in a friend and take breaks in between if needed. 

    2. Don’t be heavy handed :

    This is pretty self-explanatory, it’s likely some of your braiding hair can get tangled with your hair when pulling or tugging. So be gentle to ensure you’re not pulling and ripping out your natural hair. 

    3. Loosen from the tip upwards :

    Always loosen the braid from the tip before moving upwards. 

    4. Detangle with care :

    You can use a detangling product and spritz your hair with water to make the detangling process easier. Depending on how long you’ve had your braids in, you’re likely to experience some build up. So take your time to remove the build up from each section as opposed to detangling it all at once. Remember: working in sections and on damp hair makes detangling easier.

    How long should I wear my Braids? And How often do braids need to be re-done?

    Stick to 8 weeks and if you want to stretch your braids a little longer than 10 weeks max. Like any protective style, there is a limit to how long you can wear it. For instance, if you keep your braids in for too long, you can end up with excessive buildup which would make the removal and detangling process harder. 

    Braids around your hairline tend to grow older quicker than the rest purely because it tends to be the shorter part of your hair but also because it’s the area you tend to style the most. You can always get this re-done around the 3 – 4 week mark. This helps the style look fresher but also minimises any pulling of the hair along your hair line. 

    Top Tips for Using Braids for Length Retention

    braids for length retention

    Additional Tip’s for using braids to achieve optimal length retention

    Having the right maintenance routine will have a huge impact on how much length you retain whilst wearing braids. We’ve broken down some Do’s & Don’ts of what to do to help you on your journey.

    * TIP : Everyone’s hair is different so test them out and see how they work for you. You can always adopt the tips to suit you as and when needed.

    Do’s of Wearing Braids for length retention

    1. Wash your scalp :

    We would recommend at least once a month if you want to limit frizz. How often you wash your braids really depends on your lifestyle. For instance, if you’re a regular in the gym and your scalp is itchy from sweat then you might want to wash your hair more often.

    2. Ensure your hair is fully DRY :

    This is an important step! If you’re hair is damp and not fully dry then you’ll have an irritable scalp and your braids will smell like mould. You can definitely air dry your braids but to speed things up then use a blow dryer to dry the roots and let the rest of your braids air dry.

    3. Moisturise & Seal ends :

    Get into the habit of moisturising and sealing your ends. Although your hair is protected, it still needs moisture to thrive and not become overly dry. You can mix your leave in conditioner with some water in a spray bottle and spritz across the length of your braids. For extra protection, seal with an oil to keep your hair hydrated for longer.

    4. Re-do Braids Along Hairline:

    If you noticed the braids along the hairline are pulling on your edges. Then theres no harm in re-doing it so it doesn’t rip out your hair. You can get it re-done every 3 – 4 weeks which will help keep your hair looking fresh and limit the damage to your hair follicles.

    5. Have Break:

    If braids are your go to style then have a break in between braids. Like any protective style, moderation is key. Excessively doing the same hairstyle can lead to damage so its best to give yourself at least a week or 2 break before re-braiding.

    6. Speak Up:

    If you notice your stylist is braiding your hair too tightly then speak up there and then! Don’t let your stylist go rogue with what they want to do and end up regretting it after. Let them know straight away if there pulling your hair too tight and stop them from continuing. Change stylists next time if you’re not happy.

    Don’ts of Wearing Braids for length retention

    1. Tight styles :

    Don’t constantly wear your hair up or in tight ponytail styles. This adds tension to your hairline and can end up pulling on your hairline eventually damaging your hair follicles. This isn’t to say you cant wear your hair in buns or ponytails but just limit the amount of times and alternate your hairstyles.

    2. Wear for too long

    The advise is to stick to a maximum of 8 weeks. Some people do like to stretch their hairstyles so could potentially wear braids for longer such as 10 – 12 weeks. However, I wouldn’t go beyond that time and would pay extra attention to your hairline.

    8 Ways to Style Your Braids

    Final Thoughts 

    Braids are a great protective style and great way to maximise length retention. The key is to still have a maintenance routine whilst wearing them to ensure your hair and scalp is healthy. You’ll want to stick to medium sized braids and minimise tight hairstyles to make the most of your new hair growth. Braids offer you a variety of styling options whilst protecting your natural hair at the same time. It also requires minimal effort whilst wearing them so they’re a WIN WIN for Naturalista’s who don’t have as much time on their hands.

    Here are some other braid articles that may be off interest to you;

    How to Relieve Tight Braids and Treat Braid Bumps?

    Everything you need to know about French Curl Braids

    SOURCES :

    1. What is the structure of hair and how does it grow? : IQWiG (Institute for Quality and Efficiency in Health Care) https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK546248/
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  • Mini Twists! The Ultimate Style for Retention & Hair Growth

    Mini Twists! The Ultimate Style for Retention & Hair Growth

    Mini Twists have become more and more popular over the last couple of months. If you’re on social media platforms such as TikTok and Instagram, you’ll see countless videos of why Natural Hair Girlies are loving this style. The term mini twists has generated millions of views on Tiktok, 27.4 mill to be exact and still climbing. Apart from the fact that it’s a great protective style. Naturalistas are boasting about the amount of hair growth and length they’re able to retain whilst rocking mini twists. So if you’re on the market for a new protective style that helps you achieve your natural hair growth goals, then mini twists might be the style for you! It’s easy to maintain and has multiple styling options.

    We’ll cover everything you need to know to help you figure out if this is a hairstyle you should incorporate it into your natural hair routine more regularly. Keep reading to learn more!

    Are Mini Twists Good For Natural Hair?

    In a nutshell YES! Mini Twists are GREAT for natural hair especially Type 4 Naturalistas. They’re a protective style which minimises daily manipulation and helps you hold onto your new hair growth whilst retaining length. The twists are created by dividing your hair into small sections and then wrapping/rotating the strands of your hair across each other from root to tip until the twists are formed. The style can be done on any length or texture with or without the use of natural hair extensions.

    Do Mini Twists Contribute To Hair Growth?

    Twists alone can’t grow your hair as there are many factors that affect how quickly your hair grows such as genetics, scalp health, hair health etc. However, Twists can contribute to your hair’s growth ensuring your holding onto that new growth and retaining as much length as possible whilst wearing them. Here are 5 ways Mini Twists contribute to your hair growth.

    1. Protected ends : Your ends are protected in this style minimising wear and tear that comes with daily styling. 
    2. Low tension Style : It’s a low tension style which reduces stress on your hairline and scalp keeping your hair in a healthy state which in return promotes hair growth 
    3. Prevents single strand knots : As your hair is protected and tucked away, it reduces any excessive shedding and breakage that may come with daily manipulation and over styling.
    4. Prevents breakage : Keeping your hair in a protective style can help prevent excess breakage
    5. Helps retain moisture : you’ll be moisturising your twists regularly and oiling your scalp to prevent dryness. This will strengthen your hair strands and improve your hair’s elasticity.

    Take a look Shaneal’s hair growth comparison pics whilst wearing mini twists. Her instagram page @curlcodeblack documents her hair growth journey and you’ll notice mini twists are a regular part of her protective styling routine.

    Aside from mini twists promoting hair growth, there are also other benefits to rocking this style. Such as,

    • Easy to maintain 
    • Versatile Styling Options 
    • Easy removal process 
    • Reduces tangles 
    • Keeps scalp accessible 
    • Doubles up as a twist out after removal

    How to do Mini twists?

    Mini Twists are easy to do and are an inexpensive hairstyle which can be done by yourself as opposed to going to a hairstylist. All you need is a couple of hours, some patience and remember practice makes perfect. They may not look exactly how you envisioned the first time round but you’ll get better at it the more you do it. If you’re thinking about using hair extensions then it might be worth getting a friend to help or watching a tutorial to understand how to attach the extensions to your natural hair. 

    Before we get started on how to install your mini twists. You’ll need the following tools;

    • Wash day products (Shampoo, Conditioner, Leave in)
    • Detangling Brush 
    • Rat Tail comb 
    • Hair Clips/Separators 
    • A Twisting Butter or Cream 
    • Gel (Optional) 

    Step by Step Guide for Installing Mini Twists 

    Step 1 – Start off with freshly cleansed hair: 

    Follow your normal wash day routine. We recommend doing a deep conditioning treatment prior to getting any protective style to ensure the moisture from the product has fully penetrated through your hair strands. 

    Step 2 – Moisturise your hair and detangle thoroughly:

    Apply your leave-in conditioner on damp hair and work through from root to tip. Finger detangle once product has been applied and follow up with a detangling brush to ensure product has been worked through all your hair strands whilst making sure your hair is fully detangled.

    Step 3 – Section hair into 4 Parts:

    You’ll be working in sections for this style, you’ll start with big sections and each section will get smaller as you go along. Use your hair clips to keep the hair in their allocated sections. You can also twist or braid each section if you prefer.

    Step 4 – Work on 1 section at a time and split into smaller parts:

    Use a rat tail comb to split the section into smaller parts of 1 – 2 inches depending on the size you’re trying to achieve. Apply your twisting butter or cream to the parted section to prep for twisting

    Step 5 – Start twisting:

    Separate the part you created into 2 equal parts and begin to twist the hair around each other in a rope like motion from root to tip. As you get towards the ends, you may need to apply more cream or butter if it feels dry and then twirl the ends with your fingers once the twist is complete.

    Step 6 – Repeat:

    Continue step 5 until you’ve completed your whole head of hair. TIP – It’s okay to take a break in between sections. The key is to be patient and not rush the process so your twists come out equally. 

    Step 7 – Seal ends with an oil:

    Seal your ends with a lightweight oil such as jojoba, grapeseed or almond oil to lock in moisture. 

    NOTE: If you’re interested in doing the 3 strand twists, the process is pretty much the same. The difference is you’ll be splitting the parts into 3 sections and twist around each other. As a beginner, it’s best to stick to 2 strand twists until you’ve got the hang of things.

    How long should I keep my mini twists?

    Your twists have now been successfully installed so you’re probably wondering how long you should keep them in. The recommendation is anything from 4 – 8 weeks. Like any protective style, you’ll need to follow a maintenance routine to keep your scalp healthy to aid hair growth whilst wearing your mini twists. The great thing about mini twists is they’re easy to maintain and practical so your wash day doesn’t take as long as it normally does. One thing to bear in mind is that twists can loc your hair if they’re not properly maintained so make sure to create a maintenance routine you can stick to and pay attention to your twists especially at the roots if you decide to wear them for slightly longer. 

    How should I maintain my mini twists for hair growth?

    Here are some things you can incorporate into your twist hair growth routine. 

    1. Keep on top of wash days 

    To keep your scalp healthy and minimise build up, you’ll want to stick to regular cleansing of your hair. To achieve hair growth whilst wearing your mini twists, you need to keep your scalp clean so it can thrive. It’s also best to wash your hair in sections to minimise frizz and stop the twists from rubbing against each other. You can always apply a mousse once you’ve finished to help with the frizz. Also, don’t forget to use a conditioner and apply a leave-in once you’ve finished shampooing. 

    2. Sleep with a silk or satin scarf and or bonnet

    This is a must do if you want to retain moisture and minimise frizz. It’ll keep your hair neat and help you maintain your twists for longer. You can also sleep with a silk or satin pillowcase for that extra protection. 

    3. Avoid wearing your twists down all the time

    Luckily, there are endless styling options when wearing this style. You’ll want to avoid wearing your hair down all the time so it doesn’t rub against your clothing. Hair rubbing against clothes can cause split ends and breakage. Although your hair is protected in twists, it’s worth being mindful of this especially if you wear alot of cotton. Cotton dries out hair and makes it harder for it to retain moisture. 

    4. Moisturise and seal your hair regularly

    Afro textured hair thrives on moisture so make sure you do this 2 – 3  times a week if you want to achieve optimal growth and retain length whilst wearing your mini twists. You can mix your water with a leave-in conditioner and spritz on your hair. Then follow up with a lightweight oil to seal in the moisture

    5. Apply hair growth oil 

    If hair growth is the main reason you’re interested in trying this style, then there’s no harm using a hair growth oil. Although these oils aren’t solely responsible for growing your hair. It can help it grow a little bit faster. Just be careful not to be heavy handed when applying to avoid product build up. Remember, to massage the oil into your scalp to improve blood circulation in the area.

    How do you refresh mini twists?

    Your twists won’t need to be refreshed very often if you’re keeping up with your maintenance routine. However, if you feel your twists are unravelling and not as neat as you would like. You can always re-do the twists around your hairline and nape of your neck to give it a fresher look. Just be careful when unravelling your twists as you don’t want to tug or pull on it. Apply an oil to the twists and unravel from tip to roots. Once unravelled, spritz your hair with water and detangle. We find finger detangling first and then following up with your detangling tool of choice is the best way to detangle without tugging or pulling on your hair. 

    6 Ways to Style Mini Twists

    You won’t be bored when wearing mini twists, there are several styling options which makes this style more fun to wear. We’ve featured some of our favourite Naturalista’s for styling inspiration.  

    1. Bun and Ponytail styles

    Mini Twists Hairstyle

    Credit : @curlcodeblack

    2. Tribal Cornrows with Mini Twists 

    Credit : @opaglamz

    3. Side Part Bun

    Credit : @type4.hair

    4. Claw Clip 

    Mini Twists with Claw Clip

    Credit : @the.natural.breona

    5. Mini Twists with Curly ends

    Mini Twists with Curly Ends

    Credit : @bohosoulsalon (Stylist) @nyreephotography (Photographer) @silk_sachet (Model)

    6. Space Buns

    Mini Twist Hairstyle (Space Buns)

    Credit : @yolandaas

    * We’ve linked the instagram pages of all the Naturalistas featured. Feel free to check out their instagram pages for more natural hair inspo and give them a follow!

    Mini Twist FAQ’s 

    1: Can mini twists turn into locs/dreads?

    This isn’t something you need to worry about if you’re wearing the style for a short period of time. Although, two strand twists are known to be a loc’ing method. They only begin to loc when you keep them in for long periods. The locs tend to form from 6 – 24 months and there is a process you need to follow to keep the twists from unravelling to achieve dreadlocks. If you’re interested in using the method to to start your loc or dreads journey then it’s best to go to a stylist who specialises in this to help you achieve your desired look. 

    2: Should you put mini twists in wet or dry hair?

    Installing twists on wet or dry hair is a personal preference. There isn’t a right or wrong way! Both have their pros and cons depending on what look you’re trying to achieve. If you’re a beginner, the recommendation is to do it on dry hair. Dry hair is easier to work with and will make parting a lot easier. Whilst wet hair is more fragile and your hair is likely to get dry half way through completing the twists.

    For the best of both worlds, we recommend working on dry hair to make parting and sectioning easier. You can then spritz each parted section with water prior to applying your twisting cream or butter. Working on damp hair will help your product penetrate through your hair strands. It’ll also give your twists a tighter hold and your ends will have a slight curl. Do what works best for you, and if you’re in doubt watch a couple youtube tutorials to help you decide.

    3: How long does it take to get mini twists?

    Mini Twists can take anything from 3 hours to 6 hours depending on your hairs length and density. The size of your twists will also have a part to play in timings. If it’s your first time doing them by yourself then it’s best to allocate a full day. You’re likely to take breaks in between from your arms hurting and if you’re not used to parting your hair it’ll take you a little longer to get used to. Feel free to get a friend to help to speed up the process or you can go to a hairstylist if you want to save some time. 

    Final Thoughts

    Mini Twists are a great protective style to help you achieve hair growth and retain length. Like any protective style, it’s important to have a maintenance routine to keep your scalp and hair healthy. It’s easy to maintain without adding any tension to your scalp which is a plus when trying to grow out your hair. Plus, there are so many styling options which makes it a fun style. We can see why mini twists has grown in popularity over the last couple of years.

    We’re hoping you’ve taken some inspiration from the Naturalistas featured and want to take this opportunity to thank them for letting us share their pictures in this article.

    Have you tried mini twists before? What has your experience been like using mini twists to achieve hair growth?

  • How to relieve tight braids and treat braid bumps?

    How to relieve tight braids and treat braid bumps?

    Braids are many Naturalista’s go-to protective hairstyle. They’re are practical and you can literally wear them for every occasion including weddings, birthdays, holidays and everyday wear etc. With so many braid types on the market i.e. knotless, box braids, french curl braids etc and countless styling options. It’s no surprise they’re a favourite in the natural hair community. However, if not done correctly and braided too tightly to your scalp then you can experience braid bumps which are super uncomfortable but also damaging to your natural hair.

    Have you ever experience any of the following…

    • Got your braids done and struggled to get them up in a ponytail because of the tightness? 
    • Felt the braids pulling on your edges and hairline? 
    • Experienced headaches during the first couple of days of getting your braids done? 
    • Struggled to sleep on your braids because it hurts? 

    All the above are all signs of your braids being too tight. And even though braids should be attached closely to your scalp – it shouldn’t cause you discomfort. A protective style is meant to protect your hair not cause it further strain or damage. We’ll be covering everything you need to know about the causes of braid bumps, how to treat them plus tips on how to care for your scalp whilst wearing braids.

    Why do I get braid bumps when my hair is braided?

    The main cause of braid bumps are because your braids are too tight. Braiding your hair tightly causes tension to your hair follicles and scalp leading to inflammation. You’ll start to see little red or white bumps on your scalp which are itchy and irritable, specifically around your hairline or the nape of your hair. 

    These bumps are caused by damage to your hair follicles and are typically known as tension bumps or scalp folliculitis. Once damaged, your scalp will become vulnerable to a fungal or bacterial infection. This might be frightening to some but the good news is these bumps aren’t contagious. But it’s important to  treat them straight away to minimise it from spreading to other areas of your scalp.

    Although, tight braids are the main cause. You may experience braid bumps from other factors such as

    • Having a sensitive scalp
    • Irritation from chemicals from the braiding hair
    • Styling your hair too tightly 
    • Product build up
    • Your scalp is prone to dandruff

    How to treat and get rid of braid bumps? 

    It’s inevitable that you’ll experience braid bumps whilst wearing braids. Especially if braids are a regular part of your protective styling routine. The key is to treat them as soon as they appear to stop them from getting worse. Here are 5 things you can do to treat and get rid of braid bumps straight away.

    1. Release the tension along your hairline.

    It’s likely you’re experiencing the most tension around your hairline. Hairstylists tend to grip that part of your hair tightly due to the shortness of length and to stop the braids from falling out. If you’re confident with braiding your own hair then it’s best to take them out and re-do them. If you’re not confident then there’s no harm going back to your stylist and getting them to re-do it. To minimise tension in the future, speak up at your hair appointment and let your stylist know you experience bumps and don’t want the braids too tight. If they don’t listen then it’s worth trying another stylist who actually cares about your hair health as opposed to just the end look.

    2. Avoid putting your braids in a high ponytail or bun

    One of the reasons why braids are so appealing is because you can style them in many ways. Unfortunately, some of our favourite styles can lead to tension on the hairline eventually leading to bumps. You want to avoid putting your hair in a high tight ponytail or bun. Although the style looks great it could be adding more damage to your hair follicles, especially if you constantly have it up. Braids are heavier compared to your natural hair, having it up all the time pulls and tugs on your scalp leading to damage. Let your scalp breathe and have them down. If you really want to have it up then tie it loosely to minimise tension. You can always opt for human braiding hair which is lighter in comparison to synthetic but does come at a cost. 

    3. Massage the area with a lightweight oil. 

    Scalp massages will provide immediate pain relief and increase the blood circulation in the area. Massages are known to be soothing and good for alleviating tension. The key is to use a lightweight oil that will minimise build up but is also moisturising. Oils such as tea tree, peppermint and rosemary are known for aiding inflammation. They also have antiseptic or antimicrobial properties which can be used to treat the bumps and prevent them from getting worse.

    4. Try an antibacterial ointment

    You can purchase over the counter ointments which have been specifically created to treat folliculitis. These ointments have antibiotics which will treat bacteria and fungus quickly. Be sure to follow the instructions to ensure correct use and if you’re not sure on what product to purchase then speak to a pharmacist who will help diagnose the problem and find the best solution for you.

    5. Loosen braids 

    Loosening the braids is a great way of reducing the tension if you don’t want to completely remove the braids. You can do this by running the braids under warm water or using a steamer. This will open up the pores of your scalp whilst helping the braids to loosen. If you’re worried about your braids becoming frizzy, apply a mousse with a strong hold to keep them intact. 

    If all the above fail then it’s best to take the braids out! Although this is annoying, your hair health and scalp is more important. It’ll be frustrating in the short-term but in the long run you’ll be happy. A protective style is meant to aid hair retention and not damage it. 

    braid bumps haircare

    7 Tips for caring for your scalp whilst wearing braids to minimise braid bumps

    It’s easy to neglect your hair routine whilst wearing protective styles. You won’t need to follow all the steps in your normal routine but it’s good to create one dependant on your hairstyle. Here are some tips to help you care for your scalp and hair whilst wearing braids.

    1. Wash your braiding hair

    Washing your braiding hair is a good way of getting rid of the chemicals that may be in the extensions prior to installation. Extensions are made in factories across the world and can be hard to trace back to its country of origin and know exactly how the hair was prepared. A great way to clarify your braids is by doing an apple cider vinegar rinse. Dilute 1 cup of apple cider vinegar with 3 parts of warm or hot water and apply onto the braiding hair for at least 20 mins. Once 20 mins is up, rinse out thoroughly and let it air dry. If you’re someone who has a sensitive scalp then it’s even more important to follow this step.

    2. Don’t neglect your cleansing and moisturising routine

    Although your natural hair is braided up and protected, you should still cleanse and moisturise your hair. It might feel like a time consuming exercise but the goal is to keep your scalp and hair healthy whilst wearing braids to prevent damage when it’s time to remove them. Here are some steps to follow;

    • Step 1 – Dilute shampoo with water into a spray bottle or a bottle with a nozzle. Spray onto your scalp and use your fingers to massage the product through. Make sure you’re focussing on your scalp to remove any product build up.
    • Step 2 – Rinse shampoo out and apply conditioner. When rinsing, ensure all product used has been rinsed out thoroughly
    • Step 3 – Towel dry braids and air dry. You can always sit under a hooded dryer or blow dryer with a hooded bonnet attachment to make sure the roots dry and air dry the rest. The key here is to make sure braids are completely dry so it doesn’t have a mouldy damp smell. 
    • Step 4 – Follow up with a leave in conditioner or moisturiser and seal with an oil
    • Step 5 – Apply a mousse with strong hold if your worried about frizz

    If you’re not a fan of mixing shampoos and want to use a product which is easy to apply to your scalp with minimal mess. Then try some of our fav products which are known for removing product build up whilst keeping your scalp fresh and clean!

    1. African Pride Black Castor Miracle Braid & Scalp Cleansing Rinse
    2. Taliah Waajid Protective Styles Bamboo & Coconut Milk Shampoo
    3. Alikay Naturals Moisturizing Black Shampoo
    4. dpHUE Apple Cider Vinegar Hair Rinse

    The tutorial below shows you how to your hair in braids whilst minimising frizz.

    3. Keep an eye out for product build up

    You’re likely to have more build up than usual at the roots of your braids and edges. You’re probably using more edge control than usual and oiling your scalp regularly. If you notice build up and it’s not quite time for wash day. You can always cleanse the areas you’re experiencing build up to prevent it from getting worse. Get some cotton wool pads and dip it in warm or hot water, then rub it on your scalp to remove excess dirt and oil. You can always add a couple drops of shampoo into the water but make sure you follow up with another cotton pad with warm water to remove the shampoo from your scalp. Eliminating it straight away will prevent it from getting trapped under the roots of your hair and entwined with the braids. 

    4. Don’t wear your braids for too long

    Aim to keep your hair in braids for no longer than 8 – 10 weeks. If you decide to opt for slightly longer, make sure you’re keeping up with your hair maintenance routine. As your natural hair grows, your braids will naturally loosen and if you’re not careful you can end up pulling or tugging on your hair when styling which could lead to breakage. 

    5. Avoid scratching your scalp

    If you wear braids regularly then you’ll experience itchiness from time to time. You might have the urge to scratch your scalp but this could lead to further irritation. It’s best to massage the area with an oil or eliminate the cause of the itchiness by washing your hair. There isn’t one factor alone that causes itchiness but the main reasons are product build up, trapped dead skin cells and dry scalp. 

    6. Keep an eye out for braids on around your hairline

    The braids around your hairline tend to have the most tension causing bumps and irritation. It’s important to keep a close eye on this area so it doesn’t cause any damage. Braids around the hairline are prone to breakage and If you’re not careful could lead to traction alopecia. Re-do the braids If your braids are starting to feel uncomfortable or causing irritation due to tightness or being in for too long.

    7. Don’t forget your night time routine

    Don’t neglect your night time routine because you’re wearing braids. Sleeping with a satin or silk bonnet will help your braids stay fresher for longer but also help your hair strands to retain moisture. Watch the tutorial below for 2 ways to sleep with your braids.

    FAQ’s re: Caring for Braids

    1: What not to do when you take out your braids?

    When taking out your braids, PATIENCE is key! Don’t be heavy handed with the process and take your time to loosen them. Don’t rip the braids out of your hair and if you experience any tangles or knots. You can use a detangler or conditioner with a lot of slip to help loosen them. Prior to washing your hair, you want to ensure your hair is fully detangled so it doesn’t loc up. Finger detangle first and then follow up with a wide tooth comb or flexi brush. After washing, do a deep conditioning treatment to get moisture and nutrients back into your hair strands.

    2: Why am I losing hair after taking out my braids?

    Your hair sheds between 50 – 100 hairs per day. As your hair is in braids during a duration of 8 weeks or more, all your shed hair is trapped in your braids. So naturally you’ll experience more hair loss because the shed hairs had no wear to go. In extreme cases, you are losing hair because of breakage from not properly caring for your braids whilst wearing them. 

    3: How long should I keep my braids in? 

    The recommendation is 8 weeks. If you want to keep them in for slightly longer then don’t go past 10 – 12 weeks. You should never braid your hair back to back and have a break in between to give your natural hair time to breathe and recover.

    4: Will my hair grow back after tight braids?

    Yes – your hair will grow back with proper care. You’ll need to utilise a hair growth oil to aid hair growth and massage your scalp regularly to increase blood circulation. Be careful not to put strain on your hair follicles when trying to grow it back as your hair is fragile. Opt for protective styles that need minimal maintenance and keep up with your natural hair routine.

    NOTE – If you have traction alopecia as a result of constantly getting tight braids then it’s unlikely your hair will not grow back. 

    Final Thoughts

    If you experience braid bumps there’s no need to panic. There are a variety of ways to treat and get rid of them without them causing further damage to your hair. Prevention is better than cure in these scenario’s so find a stylist who cares about your scalp and hair health. Don’t be afraid to speak up at appointments if they feel too tight. There’s no harm trying a new stylist, ask family and friends for recommendations if you feel you’re not being listened too. Make you have a maintenance routine whilst wearing your braids and don’t forget to cleanse your scalp regularly to minimise build up.

    How do you care for your braids? And what additional tips do you have?

    Read our latest post on how braids contribute to hair growth and length retention.

  • French Curl Braids! The Protective Style of the Summer

    French Curl Braids! The Protective Style of the Summer

    French curl braids have become more and more popular over the last couple of years, moving ahead of traditional box braids and is the new way of doing knotless braids. Funny enough, it’s a trend that was well known in the 90’s and worn regularly by the braid queen  herself – ‘Brandy’ on the hit show Moesha.

    Over the last couple of years, the style has been trending all over social media on platforms like Instagram and Tik Tok! It’s the go-to style of the summer and a great protective style. If you’re looking for a stylish, chic hairstyle which can be worn for all occasions then this might be the hairstyle to try next.

    What are French Curl Braids?

    French curl braids are pretty much box braids or knotless braids done with curly braiding hair. It’s made of synthetic fibres and naturally curly so say goodbye to braiding and/or curling the ends of your braids and dipping them in water to set. They come in a range of colours from black to brown to blonde to pink and even in ombre – the options are endless and if you prefer a wavy look then there’s an option for you too. 

    The hair is braided with your natural hair as you would with normal braids but with the curling braiding hair. What makes this style great is the endless styling options and the curly ends add an extra je ne sais quoi!

    How to maintain French Curl Braids?

    You care for them the same way you would care for normal braids but it’s important to be aware that the hair is silky. Depending on your hair texture you may need to spend some extra time on keeping your hair from frizzing. 

    Here are our key tips:

    • Shampoo and condition your hair and scalp every 2-3 weeks. You can also use a braid gel shampoo or rinse if you don’t want to saturate your hair with water. Then follow up with a wet towel to remove the product from the hair
    • Apply Mousse to freshly washed braids but you can also apply weekly if the braids are becoming frizzy and need some extra hold
    • Spray leave in conditioner mixed with warm water on your hair weekly and seal with a light oil. Some brands also sell maintenance products such as moisturisers specially created for the braiding hair.
    • Wear a silk bonnet or silk scarf to bed! This is a MUST DO – don’t miss this step!
    • Try not to wear the style for longer than 8 weeks at a time.

    Where can I purchase Curly Braiding Hair?

    The key to this style is purchasing good quality hair so it doesn’t matte or tangle whilst wearing the braids. We recommend going to a stylist who knows how to deal with the braiding hair texture as it’s very silky.

    Click on the links to some of our favourite brands below. They offer a variety of colours, lengths and styles.

    We’ve pulled together videos from TikTok to give you some inspiration on how to style your curly braids…

    @chisluxebraidinghair

    Here’s how to style your french curls braids when wearing Chi’s Luxe Braiding Hair! 😍 Link in bio to shop for your braiding hair now! 💃🏾 #girlsinChi #frenchcurlsbraid #frenchcurlybraids #braids #braidinghairstyles #braidinghair

    ♬ Water – Tyla
    @thefashionhive_

    Cute ways to style your French curly braids 🎥: unknown. DM for credit #frenchcurlybraids #braids #stylingbraids #stylingfrenchcurlbraids

    ♬ original sound – TheFashionHive

    Pros & Cons of French Curl Braiding hair

    Prior to getting this style done, it’s important to be aware of the pro’s and con’s of this style. This will ensure you’re fully equipped on how to maintain and style the braiding hair without causing damage to your natural hair. 

    Pro’s

    – Braiding Hair tends to be great quality :

    Just be sure to do your research when purchasing your braiding hair. Read reviews and watch videos on social media to get an understanding of how other people have found the hair. We highly recommend the options we suggested as they’ve been tried and tested. We’re aware that there are a number of sellers providing this hair on amazon. Always check the reviews to see what people are saying to avoid disappointment.

    – Low maintenance :

    This is why we love this style. You don’t need to do much to it apart from moisturise from time to time. Remember to wear a scarf or bonnet when sleeping! The hair is lightweight and silky in texture. A silk or satin scarf will help you maintain the style longer without it getting messy. You can also opt for a satin or silk pillowcase if you prefer.

    – Endless styling options :

    This really speaks for itself! You can wear it down, in a bun, half up/half down hairstyle, claw clip etc. The list goes on, watch the video tutorials above if you’re stuck on inspiration 

    – Curls stay throughout :

    Apart from using mousse and maybe twisting the curls at night. There’s nothing else you need to do to maintain the curls. They’ll stay set for the duration of the style. Just remember to wear your scarf or bonnet to help maintain the look.

    – Easy to remove :

    Due to the lightweight texture and silkiness of the hair, the removal process is quick and easy. Take your time during the removal process to avoid tangling or pulling on your hair. Patience is key when removing any protective style. It’s easy to yank on your hair when tired or near the finishing line. You got the style to protect your hair and retain length so don’t ruin your progress. Take a break if you need to or continue the next day.

    – The hair is reusable – YES! Reusable :

    If you have the patience to loosen the hair from the tips without cutting it then you can use the hair again. Check the supplier’s advice but it’s likely you can reuse for 2 – 3 installs.

    Cons

    – Dependent on your hair texture, your natural hair can frizz through :

    This is something a few people have struggled with after a couple of weeks. This is why you should spend time understanding how to maintain the hair to minimise frizz from your natural hair. The good thing is you’ll still be getting compliments even when you feel it’s not perfect. I wore mine for 8 weeks and kept getting stopped about how nice my hair was even though I thought the frizz was bad.

    – Dependant on length it can pull on your edges :

    If you constantly have the braids up in a bun or high ponytail you risk putting pressure on your edges. This is the same with all braids to be fair so be careful if that’s your go to style. Always switch up the style to reduce pressure on certain points of your hair.

    As you can see, it’s a great style to wear on holidays, weddings, birthdays, parties or even as an everyday look. The braiding hair is lightweight and doesn’t weigh your hair down whilst offering a flexibility of styling options.

    HAVE YOU TRIED FRENCH CURL BRAIDS? WHERE DID YOU PURCHASE YOUR BRAIDING HAIR FROM?

    Comment below and help a fellow Naturalista out.

    *Feautured image by Chi Luxe Braiding Hair